35"+ Tire Roll-call... (200's only) (16 Viewers)

[clrussell]

I really have loved my Boss At. Mine have roughly 40k on them and still have over half tread. I’m fact I think of replacing them often but I haven’t found another tire to replace them. And they don’t need it yet.

Pic for the thread. 35-12.5-17 on 17x9 “0”

 

[Heckraiser]

Heck yeah! I'm most recently coming from 285/65/r18 Falkens and didn't bother checking the difference. I'm at 11.6mpg uphill with (3) people and ski gear. 14mpg downhill by myself.

I think the steering feel is definitely lighter that a wider tire. Feels super nimble. I felt that very much with my old V8 4Runner too (had 255/75r17s KO2s and 255/80r17s Falken Wildpeaks).

Good point on the KDSS rub with the Mickey Thompson sidewall bling factor.

As far as your stealing my 35" thunder goes!!!
I've always been confused on this--my understanding based on actual vs labeled measurements is that a nominal/published 35" tire is anywhere from 34.1" to 35". Same for a 34" tire (a "34" is anywhere from 33.1 to 34). Etc.

Here are some snips from the Mickey Thompson website, still not sure where that leaves us!

Note the "35x10" listed under equivalent size in this first snip.
View attachment 3623002

Note the "OD IN" size in this second snip
View attachment 3623003

Haha, not trying to steal your thunder. If they are 34.6 O.D. then they are oversized for spec, which is cool. You're right in that a labeled size can mean any number of actual sizes depending on the manufacturer. Most tires are smaller than advertised. If these M.T. numbers are correct, then those are oversized! I was just saying that mathematically speaking, 255mm x 0.85 x 2 = 17.09" of sidewall plus 17" of wheel equals 34.09". A "true to size" 255/85/17 would be 34.09"

 

[ryanCA]

Once again appreciate everyone’s experience.
Finding 17’s at +25 was tough but settled for methods.
35s really look huge on the garage floor. Once they’re on the truck they just look standard hah!View attachment 3622668

looka soooooo good without side steps

wish i could get rid of mine

 

[ryanCA]

Setup looks great, I absolutely love my MT Baja Bosses so far. 255's = better mpg? Lighter steering feel? Curious to see how you like the super-skinnies on a rig as big as the 200. Not surprised you're getting some KDSS rub since the Mickey Thompsons have major sidewall bling factor. But FYI, 255/85r17 is a 34" diameter tire.

/ninja edit

i cant wait to put 245/255 next year

love driving gcc spec 245 200 series half the year

need it in usa too

 

[YellowJacket]

looka soooooo good without side steps

wish i could get rid of mine

Although I feel rock sliders are critical for any off-road vehicle.

 

[ryanCA]

Although I feel rock sliders are critical for any off-road vehicle.

agreed

 

[Jittlz]

Hey all! For a 2015 LC, I have been leaning towards a 295/70r18 but the new Falken AT4/W comes in a 35/11.50r18. Would the 35x11.5 require much more work? I will be using 2016+ OEM wheels (+56) with a 1" spacer. Thank you!

 

[ironmountain]

Although I feel rock sliders are critical for any off-road vehicle.

Definitely keeping my trails limited until I get a pair of sliders for sure

 

[ryanCA]

what is the narrowest 35s you guys are running?

 

[TLC2013]

what is the narrowest 35s you guys are running?

A couple popular options are the Kenda Klever RT in 35x10.5r17 and the Mickey Thompson Baja Boss 255/85/17. Out of these two the MT BB is the narrower of the bunch in a 255 width both are great tires options.

 

[linuxgod]

Haha, not trying to steal your thunder. If they are 34.6 O.D. then they are oversized for spec, which is cool. You're right in that a labeled size can mean any number of actual sizes depending on the manufacturer. Most tires are smaller than advertised. If these M.T. numbers are correct, then those are oversized! I was just saying that mathematically speaking, 255mm x 0.85 x 2 = 17.09" of sidewall plus 17" of wheel equals 34.09". A "true to size" 255/85/17 would be 34.09"

I wonder if the extra 1/2” is the tread? Not sure how “official” measurements are done, though I know the max diameter is supposed to be based on max pressure

 

[rlynch356]

Getting some new tires.... thinking about using the Nitto Ridge grappler 35x11.50R17LT E 128Q - which specs out to 34.76.. @ 11.42" wide..
i am doing the KDSS relocaction and the links outside the cradle mod.. also a Dr KDSS BOTCK for rear panhard..
Wheels = RW's + 1.25" (31.75mm) spidertrax spacers.. so 18.25 offset..
OME 50mm lift, OME UCA's.. alignment is in factory spec right now..

I will use full suspension travel.... offroad so it needs to work - i expect normal shaping of the plastics....

what am i not accounting for?


i want to stay at the 2" lift if possible, but also am trying to give as much clearance for my rear diff as well.....

 

[skrypj]

315/70R17 Territory MT’s on Method MR705 +35mm

 

[Boston Mangler]

Forgot where I saw that but I also saw someone say “they’re bloated highlanders”

My bro in law has a highlander and last time i was over there i parked next to it.

Nephew (non car kid) says "Uncle Kevin, your truck looks like a fat version of dads"!

Listen here you little s***!

 

[nwfl4runner]

Getting some new tires.... thinking about using the Nitto Ridge grappler 35x11.50R17LT E 128Q - which specs out to 34.76.. @ 11.42" wide..
i am doing the KDSS relocaction and the links outside the cradle mod.. also a Dr KDSS BOTCK for rear panhard..
Wheels = RW's + 1.25" (31.75mm) spidertrax spacers.. so 18.25 offset..
OME 50mm lift, OME UCA's.. alignment is in factory spec right now..

I will use full suspension travel.... offroad so it needs to work - i expect normal shaping of the plastics....

what am i not accounting for?


i want to stay at the 2" lift if possible, but also am trying to give as much clearance for my rear diff as well.....

With spacers I’d be looking at the body mount

 

[linuxgod]

Getting some new tires.... thinking about using the Nitto Ridge grappler 35x11.50R17LT E 128Q - which specs out to 34.76.. @ 11.42" wide..
i am doing the KDSS relocaction and the links outside the cradle mod.. also a Dr KDSS BOTCK for rear panhard..
Wheels = RW's + 1.25" (31.75mm) spidertrax spacers.. so 18.25 offset..
OME 50mm lift, OME UCA's.. alignment is in factory spec right now..

I will use full suspension travel.... offroad so it needs to work - i expect normal shaping of the plastics....

what am i not accounting for?


i want to stay at the 2" lift if possible, but also am trying to give as much clearance for my rear diff as well.....

I run +25 offset, but otherwise basically the same setup in C load. I'd actually recommend C load tires unless you're really planning to wheel hard - my E load 34s were way stiffer than my C load 35s even though the pressure is nearly the same. Even if you run 1000# over the rear axle weight you'll be under the 50psi of a C load tire.

Anyway what you need to account for. Apologies I don't recall your current setup so I'm going to assume stock except for the lift for the moment:

• Mud flap removal, smacking the mud flap bracket inward, and reshaping the plastic liner, if you haven't done those yet.
• If you have the stock front plastic you likely will need to cut a bunch of the inner liner plastic. When my front was stock I rubbed all over the place. You also might need to trim a little bit of the bumper at the very front bottom of the wheel well. I don't think this is a problem for those on RWs but the lower offset wheels swing wider and may rub that spot when turning as the body shakes and flexes differently from the frame.
• If your alignment has enough caster (>3 degrees) you'll likely clear the body mount just fine. If you do rub it, you can do a BMC. I haven't needed it, but your offset is a tad lower and lower offsets have a wider arc on the outer edge of the tire.
• I torqued my sway bar end links to ~120#. Book says 97# IIRC but since they're outside the cradle in a single shear setup now I felt it wouldn't hurt to go a little higher. I've marked mine and they didn't rotate at factory torque so probably fine either way
• I cleared my fenders on 34s with enough space to spare even when crossed up with tires turned hard right and weight leaning hard forward-right on a trail that I felt 35s would clear. I haven't gotten that crossed-up anywhere, but I think I'd be fine. On full compression going straight they tuck fine. I assume +18 will fit as it's only ~1/4" different but if not there's a small change you may need to roll the fender. I would 100% check how you tuck on a bump stop contact going straight at least as if you hit your fender the damage can be a lot more to either the tire or the fender than rolling it would be. Again I suspect you'll clear.
• I run Durobump "active" bump stops. Some people on 35s will make contact at the top of the fender liners. Even on full bump contact I have not. If you do, you'll eventually probably want to shim your bump stops with a couple washers or maybe a piece of 1/4" aluminum. (Note: The one place I'll make contact is a spot about the size of a quarter on my rear aftermarket mud flaps, but it's so slight I have no concerns)

I'll be interested to see how it all works out when you're done. Pics or it didn't happen!

 

[rlynch356]

Thanks - @linuxgod
Front and rear.. liners are cut for my CBI bumpers, mud flaps removed for the spacer really as they rubbed W/O doing that but no other mods...
reshaping the rear area of the front tire wheel wells seems like it will be needed, as well as some cutting most likely.

I may see if we can make a plate to support the outer part of the sway bar link that attaches under the LCA... .. your single shear comment is correct..& kinda worrying given the position that it will sit in... I am asking Nitron if they will ship as well...

Hopefully, i won't have to break out the fender roller tool... but i can flex it out with a forklift and see what need to do..

I do want to add back in some mud flaps.


On the C vs E... for me it comes down to 6-ply vs 10-ply in the ridge grappler.. i don't mind the stiffer tire. the weight delta is ~1.2lbs between the C 285/75 and the 35/11.5..

 

[linuxgod]

Thanks - @linuxgod
Front and rear.. liners are cut for my CBI bumpers, mud flaps removed for the spacer really as they rubbed W/O doing that but no other mods...
reshaping the rear area of the front tire wheel wells seems like it will be needed, as well as some cutting most likely.

I may see if we can make a plate to support the outer part of the sway bar link that attaches under the LCA... .. your single shear comment is correct..& kinda worrying given the position that it will sit in... I am asking Nitron if they will ship as well...

Hopefully, i won't have to break out the fender roller tool... but i can flex it out with a forklift and see what need to do..

I do want to add back in some mud flaps.


On the C vs E... for me it comes down to 6-ply vs 10-ply in the ridge grappler.. i don't mind the stiffer tire. the weight delta is ~1.2lbs between the C 285/75 and the 35/11.5..

I bought these really thin mud flaps and then trimmed them to fit in the rear as I didn’t want mud and water constantly dumped into my bumper. I didn’t do anything with the fronts though as there’s only a very small area which is exposed. With sliders the front doesn’t really throw up much dirt against the rockers

Amazon.com

I hear ya. I was running E load until this current set for the same reason. The ride going from 34/E to 35/C was a lot softer on the awful pavement around the city. I don’t think I’ll go back to E load unless I start shredding sidewalls.

Any plate to turn the LCA change into a double shear setup will require welding or at least some significant bolting to the LCA I think. I can’t weld so I just ruled that out. Lots of vehicles use single shear and thus far I’ve seen no evidence of movement after 30k miles. Several others like @Willy beamin have run this longer than I have without issues. So long as you have a solid spacer backing it this seems to be fine. The people I’ve heard have issues all had skipped the spacer. That won’t work as the cradle will flex.

I do think the best solution would be custom end links which have an angle on them designed to move the bar forward. Or a custom length and contoured sway bar and KDSS ram which avoids the interference. But so far the closest I’ve seen are the BDS Tundra extended links with heim joints.

 

[Casual Cruiser]

I bought these really thin mud flaps and then trimmed them to fit in the rear as I didn’t want mud and water constantly dumped into my bumper. I didn’t do anything with the fronts though as there’s only a very small area which is exposed. With sliders the front doesn’t really throw up much dirt against the rockers

Amazon.com

I hear ya. I was running E load until this current set for the same reason. The ride going from 34/E to 35/C was a lot softer on the awful pavement around the city. I don’t think I’ll go back to E load unless I start shredding sidewalls.

Any plate to turn the LCA change into a double shear setup will require welding or at least some significant bolting to the LCA I think. I can’t weld so I just ruled that out. Lots of vehicles use single shear and thus far I’ve seen no evidence of movement after 30k miles. Several others like @Willy beamin have run this longer than I have without issues. So long as you have a solid spacer backing it this seems to be fine. The people I’ve heard have issues all had skipped the spacer. That won’t work as the cradle will flex.

I do think the best solution would be custom end links which have an angle on them designed to move the bar forward. Or a custom length and contoured sway bar and KDSS ram which avoids the interference. But so far the closest I’ve seen are the BDS Tundra extended links with heim joints.

I have been running my joints outside the basket for over 50,000 miles and haven’t had any problem. The edges of one of my washers did get bent by a rock, but the rest of the assembly stayed true. I have the spacer inside the cradle as recommended.

 

[nwfl4runner]

I'd suggest to anyone doing it outside without cutting and welding the bucket, that you run a retaining safety washer.