35"+ Tire Roll-call... (200's only) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Markuson
- Start date
-
- Tags
- 200 series 35 tire
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Toyota Land Cruiser Nitro Gear Package
2008+ Toyota Landcruiser 200 Series & 2007+ Tundra 4.6L/4.7L, Nitro Gear Package, 4.30 Ratio. Nitro Gear & Axle strives to provide the highest quality differential components available.
www.justdifferentials.com
Last edited:
Gears alone are ~$1500. (Nitro has them listed at ~$1600, Just Differentials is a bit cheaper at ~$1400). With install labor you're probably look at roughly $3k, maybe a tad less. ($125/hr x 12 hours)
If you do lockers at the same time it's not much extra labor, mostly just parts costs. The front Eaton locker is about $1200 and the rear about $1100. If you're doing lockers expect to add 2-3 hours labor total including getting your switch(es) wired up. The ARB lockers are about $1000 each.
Here's the parts list from Just Differentials. Total parts is $3778 for the eLockers. (Mark if you go with ARB your parts cost is probably closers to $3500 since you already have the ARB compressor.) Labor including switch wiring/air line setup is probably another $2k, give or take. So figure six grand, +/- $500 depending on shop rates. Unlike say brakes or exhaust, gears are one of those things where I wouldn't look for the cheapest shop rates. If the shop does a mediocre job the gear noise and driveline thrash is going to make you regret the savings
The Slee price threw me but then they noted their rate includes the carrier for the 2016+, which I wasn't thinking of. So ultimately it's probably about the same cost.
Id go eaton. My rear ARB has failed me once on a remote trail (HITR) and thats once to many. Was a simple Oring but in the pumpkin. Stupid. My 80’s harrops are trouble free and ive used them a bunch.
That's why I'm leaning Eaton. I've not experienced an air locker issue (given I don't have them) but I've seen enough complaints about air lines leaking over time that I don't want to deal with that scenario. I'm OK with the trade-off that elockers will disengage and then reengage when going from forward to reverse and back.
With all this gear and lockers talk- anyone have a great shop in central to northern NY, or south western VT for gears and lockers? I do most of my own stuff, but this is beyond me.
Currently rubbing my splash guards off. Dangerously rubs my KDSS. But looks sweet!
In case this is helpful to anyone. 3” lift Ironman 4x4 foam cell pros, 285 75 18 Falken Wildpeaks (measure 34.8 x 11.2 btw 11.2 is same as oe 285 60 18). Rubbing my splash guards and mainly dangerously close to my KDSS. The ride is noticeably affected. It feels tall and top heavy as expected. Definitely need a balance. Not bad overall
I'm in Virginia Beach and am following this 2018 lc200 here
Spacers or wider offset wheels will improve stability but also make the rubbing more severe.
Gotcha. Also 1.25” spidertrax
Spacers will make it feel as if the vehicle's center of gravity dropped back to stock height. They will also pull the tire away from suspension rub points. But, they will cause some new scrub/rub to different areas of plastic in the wheel wells. 100% worth it, in my opinion.
Before/After
The wheel well rubbing is fairly easy. Get rid of the mud flap, and then you'll need to hammer the metal bracket that's behind the flap area (or cut it off) and then use a heat gun on the plastic liner in order to get a smooth arc for the wheel.
KDSS relo bracket is the only way to fix the front that I'm aware of, save for a ridiculously low offset wheel (which will cause other issues). You're likely rubbing on the passenger side sway bar too. If you go that route it'll tweak the sway bar end links unless you do something crafty like mounting them outside the LCA sway bar cradle. If you manage a solution that doesn't tweak them I'm interested in photos...
KDSS relo bracket is the only way to fix the front that I'm aware of, save for a ridiculously low offset wheel (which will cause other issues). You're likely rubbing on the passenger side sway bar too. If you go that route it'll tweak the sway bar end links unless you do something crafty like mounting them outside the LCA sway bar cradle. If you manage a solution that doesn't tweak them I'm interested in photos...
I just ordered the slee KDSS relocate. I’m also about to order the Ironman 4x4 adjustable panhard bar. My mechanic is concerned it’s very bound up since I installed my 3” lift
If you decide to do something with the sway bar end links aside from just leaving them angled, take good notes.
Someone (I can't recall who at the moment) said he mounted his *outside* the LCA end link cradle, using a longer bolt, and put a spacer in the cradle. If I was already running 35s I might be inclined to try that to avoid the tweaking.
