Current mileage 200 series 5.7L

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2010 Cruiser with 67k mi.
Owned 7 years, bought with 35k mi.
Religious about regular maintenance, no major repairs.
Would be the last vehicle I would sell!!
 
Hello Everyone,

I am curious to know how many miles you have on your 5.7L. Also share any major repairs you have had to do and at what mileage.
Mine is a 2014 Land Cruiser with 125,500mi.

Recently purchased but no major repairs needed. I believe it has a cam tower leak driver side but minor. Only bad thing is trans fluid has never been drained & filled.
My 2013 has 160k miles and no major repairs except a radiator than developed a small crack right on top. Very strange; I still think a tech slammed a tool on it while closing the hood during an oil change.
My 2014 has 190k miles and no major repairs except a muffler which had a hole poked in it from road debris. I recently noticed the original rear shock covers have rusted through (shocks feel fine) so I'll replace them this month.
Change the oil, check the fluids, run good gas, tires and brakes, and they run forever.
Another key is to keep them CLEAN. The engine bay as well. Grime and mud hold moisture. Moisture and heat cause corrosion. Add a little salt and the headaches begin.
Keep them clean!
 
My 2013 has 160k miles and no major repairs except a radiator than developed a small crack right on top. Very strange; I still think a tech slammed a tool on it while closing the hood during an oil change.
My 2014 has 190k miles and no major repairs except a muffler which had a hole poked in it from road debris. I recently noticed the original rear shock covers have rusted through (shocks feel fine) so I'll replace them this month.
Change the oil, check the fluids, run good gas, tires and brakes, and they run forever.
Another key is to keep them CLEAN. The engine bay as well. Grime and mud hold moisture. Moisture and heat cause corrosion. Add a little salt and the headaches begin.
Keep them clean!
The radiator crack on top is a very common problem…several threads on this in the forum. There is a new version that won’t crack available through Toyota as a replacement. Expect to see the same problem on your 2014 eventually. One of a very few known common issues.
 
2015 with ~152k miles. No issues with the engine, except a very small oil leak from the timing cover on the passenger side. Have not addressed it yet. Even radiator did not develop the crack, but I replaced it just in case.

Rest the car - ok except a small A/C leak that has not been found/fixed despite few shop (dealer) visits. Need to chase it myself or take it to a real A/C shop.

Oh, rear springs gave in around 80k. Got bouncy. Replaced with OEM and fine so far.
 
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2008 LX. I've had her since 50,000 miles. Best vehicle ever. She's in fair shape inside and out. No off-roading or much towing. Mainly highway miles. Proactive newer radiator swap. Starter died a couple years ago. Replaced transmission at 350,000.

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I'll post pictures later. I've had her since 50,000 miles. Best vehicle ever. She's in fair shape inside and out. No off-roading or much towing. Mainly highway miles. Proactive newer radiator swap. Starter died a couple years ago. Replaced transmission at 350,000.
Tranny went at 350k? Interesting. How was it maintained? I an doing full flush/filter every 50k, maybe overkill but cheap and simple enough to do.
 
Tranny went at 350k? Interesting. How was it maintained? I an doing full flush/filter every 50k, maybe overkill but cheap and simple enough to do.
I believe I could've kept it going. Had a few intermittent issues getting into reverse. Went down several rabbit holes, spent about $1,500 and made it worse. Decided instead of dropping any more cash to spend $3,500 on a remanufactured transmission. Never flushed or anything. Told my transmission guy I would have him maintain it on whatever schedule he recommended. He told me he wouldn't do anything differently. He said if he'd maintained it himself religiously he wasn't certain he could've gotten 350,000 miles out of it and I may have spent close to what new transmission costs anyway.
 
2020 LC w/ 91500 miles

Recent preventive maintenance done at 88k in preparation for a 11,000 mile road trip.: serpentine belt along with tensioners, water pump, spark plugs and all fluids.
To date only failure on the vehicle has been 1 hood strut, and tail gate control unit both replaced under warranty at about 30k miles plus the original battery. died at 76k .. wish I could get test OE one again.
 
I'll post pictures later. I've had her since 50,000 miles. Best vehicle ever. She's in fair shape inside and out. No off-roading or much towing. Mainly highway miles. Proactive newer radiator swap. Starter died a couple years ago. Replaced transmission at 350,000.

How many miles were on it when your starter went out? Any warning/did you need to get it towed?
 
Can’t remember exactly. Maybe around 375,000? Went dead while at red light earlier in the day, but no warning I could specifically point to. Towed to Express Oil and they fixed in a few hours.
 
2016 LC. Bought new in ‘16. Currently 136K miles on the odometer. Oil changes every 10K miles. All service / maintenance performed by same Toyota dealer and per Toyota recommended maintenance schedule.

2 issues: replaced water pump at 107K miles (covered under extended warranty) and just replaced valve cover gasket due to a minor oil leak at around 135K miles.

Had the transmission remapped early on to switch gears more smoothly - believe there was a tech bulletin out - and have had to replace the AC ventilation unit in the glovebox area (tech broke it when installing a new cabin air filter).

Only current beef: the clear coat on the head unit (piano black plastic trim around the nav screen) has started to peel. Due to car being detailed - attribute it to detailers spraying the plastic when cleaning interior. The clear coat began to peel at the edges and now entire chunks missing. Toyota wouldn’t replace under extended warranty as it’s “trim”. Have to buy an entire head unit to replace which is $4-5K installed. Not worth it. This is my only current gripe.

Other than that, just basic maintenance.
 
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'10 with 228k, PO had trans fluid exchanged at dealer 3 times before 175k miles, just did a simple trans pan drain along with all 3 diffs and both full tie rods (555) at 225k, radiator failed at about 150k with the typical crack and was replaced with random OEM unit that is doing its job. Driving them and keeping up with regular maintenance keeps them going, all my fun cars that sit seem to be the real problem children for part failures...
 
2021, first owner, ~58k. No mechanical problems yet, but had to make a warranty request a few years ago when I went to hook up a trailer for the first time and found out that the factory just forgot to install the trailer electrical port. Following the basic recommended maintenance intervals for now, but considering doing trans/diff/transfer case fluid exchanges when it hits 60,000, just to be on the safe side. Joined this forum to learn how to do my own maintenance, now that the warranty's up and there's no reason to keep taking it to a dealership.
 
2021, first owner, ~58k. No mechanical problems yet, but had to make a warranty request a few years ago when I went to hook up a trailer for the first time and found out that the factory just forgot to install the trailer electrical port. Following the basic recommended maintenance intervals for now, but considering doing trans/diff/transfer case fluid exchanges when it hits 60,000, just to be on the safe side. Joined this forum to learn how to do my own maintenance, now that the warranty's up and there's no reason to keep taking it to a dealership.
I do diffs and transfer case every 30k. Which is overkill. But I would say it’s time. Between 60k and 90k I would change the coolant. At 90k I would service the transmission. I would switch to 5w30 synthetic every 5k if you haven’t yet. Do all that and it should last forever.
 
I do diffs and transfer case every 30k. Which is overkill. But I would say it’s time. Between 60k and 90k I would change the coolant. At 90k I would service the transmission. I would switch to 5w30 synthetic every 5k if you haven’t yet. Do all that and it should last forever.
Interesting. I recognize that most of this is what Toyota recommends for 'severe operating conditions', but I don't think I qualify as that even under the very broad definitions I've seen on this board. I mostly take transit within the city, so most of my miles are from long interstate trips on the highway without towing or heavy loading, and when I do drive locally it's usually >5 miles each way on the highway as well, never stop-and-go. I'm open to being convinced otherwise, though.

What's the logic behind the heavier oil? I've heard it's good for older trucks to increase the oil weight once the motor gets up there in the 100ks, but never for (essentially) new vehicles.
 
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