2F into a 72 FJ40 need transmission advice

[Jdc1]

It looks like your crossmember is tilted back. What month in 72 was yours built? Do the frame and body Vin match?

Attached is a pic of where my Pbrake sits. Not enough space to pull it off without tilting drivetrain.

 

[65swb45]

Cant believe I forgot this so far, but I really can’t believe it’s something wrong seeing as the guy I bought it from just pulled it from a running Fj ...... but I can’t get the trans output or input to turn when it’s in gear. It turns a fraction of an inch then locks. I took he top cover off ( the smaller 6 bolt one) and the gears looked good. The shafts spin in neutral fine. Any advice on this?

See this:4-speed assembly issue

 

[65swb45]

As for a possible replacement hump, check this out:

For Sale - FJ40 Early 70s Trans Hump

 

[96 Bronco]

Thanks a lot Mark, saved me some heartache. So I guess this means I should install the transfer case first before attempting to connect the trans to the engine - so I can rotate the shafts for alignment purposes.

 

[65swb45]

Thanks a lot Mark, saved me some heartache. So I guess this means I should install the transfer case first before attempting to connect the trans to the engine - so I can rotate the shafts for alignment purposes.

That’s what the like button is for.

 

[96 Bronco]

No luck so far finding a 4 spd transfer case. Anyone have one feel free to message me. I have a wanted ad in the classified section. Conversely a local FJ guy who i thought would have one was trying to convince me to just use my 3 spd case. I think by the time i buy the conversion gear and correct shifter linkage I'll be in for the same money and possibly louder?

 

[65swb45]

No luck so far finding a 4 spd transfer case. Anyone have one feel free to message me. I have a wanted ad in the classified section. Conversely a local FJ guy who i thought would have one was trying to convince me to just use my 3 spd case. I think by the time i buy the conversion gear and correct shifter linkage I'll be in for the same money and possibly louder?

I have a 4 speed I am planning to go thru before I sell it. So as a matter of $ it would be a more expensive option. But it would be guaranteed good for quite some time, as opposed to stabbing in a used unit that appears good from the surface.

I’ve gotten in 3 transmissions and two transfer cases to rebuild in the last 9 day’s. What’s one more in the line?

 

[96 Bronco]

so I got a few hours today and started on the F engine removal... basic stuff - drain radiator, disconnect fuel lines and electrical connections etc. Man, that throttle linkage is difficult to get access to. i ended up taking the carb up at the base and turning it so I could access the linkage. the isolator plate had its gasket peel - I understand this a common source of vacuum leaks, so whats the best place to get a new baseplate/gasket?

it became evident to me that i was going to have to remove the entire exhaust as it blocked the skid plate - so I got it out in 1 piece and I think its a very good original replacement part. See photos. I was planning on re-using my F exhaust manifold and hooking back into this stock exhaust, but now I'm considering selling this piece and using the headers that came with my 2F. Any idea what this exhaust is worth anyone?

I also removed my bench seat to access the trans tunnel hump and am considering selling it as I prefer the buckets. Anyone want to throw out a number as to what this is worth?

Last couple questions..... the skid plate looks like it does not support the trans or transfer case - correct?

And finally how do you disconnect the cable from the parking brake?

thanks

 

[96 Bronco]

Forgot my fuel line question - I don't see this line from the frame filter to the fuel pump in the SOR catalog or JT outfitters. Anyone know where to get it or what the fitting sizes are so I can get one from maybe Summit Racing?

 

[65swb45]

@Splangy and/or @Living in the Past can correct me if I’m wrong, but I think that driver’s seat is MUCH older than your cruiser. Like 62-63 ish.

 

[Splangy]

@Splangy and/or @Living in the Past can correct me if I’m wrong, but I think that driver’s seat is MUCH older than your cruiser. Like 62-63 ish.

Yeah, it’s the earlier (1963 and earlier with angled toolbox) tube style bottom mount, but with a later seat bolted to it.

 

[65swb45]

Forgot my fuel line question - I don't see this line from the frame filter to the fuel pump in the SOR catalog or JT outfitters. Anyone know where to get it or what the fitting sizes are so I can get one from maybe Summit Racing?

View attachment 1893326

The line is NLA. If yours isn’t leaking, keep using it. I have used ones, but they’re all old.

I also have adapter fittings to use a standard rubber fuel line between the filter and pump.

 

[Martyt]

For the record, it is called an “FJ40” or “40” not an FJ

 

[Dizzy]

The brake disconnects from under the dash.

What was wrong with the F? A 2F is not really a daily driver step-up.

Your F exhaust is far more desirable than those headers in my book. You can buy headers, like this very minute, a solid down-pipe for a Land Cruiser is a different story. Unless the headers have been adjusted to fit the thickness of the 2F intake? But with the clamp-on O2 sensor bung, that is something that I would weld on; you notice that battery grounding cable going to the exhaust. It also looks like your 2F was PCV-capped.

Those seats are awesome, btw.

When I re-read it, I realized that I may have not been clear about the transmission hump. It is for clearance of the H42; the '72 hump will need both cutting and welding, if I am correct.

 

[96 Bronco]

Nothing wrong with the F. I started this journey because I really wanted the 4 spd. Non synchronized shifting is for the birds. I also can’t cruise at 45 in 2nd gear and hear anything with all that whine. If I hit 3rd it lugs. The gearing of the 4 spd will suit me better and the noise level as well. I’m trying to copy a local guys rig that I’ve ridden in and is exactly what I want. When I bought the transmission, I got this 2f motor with it as well. I believe it is healthy. It looks to me easier to swap out the whole drivetrain so I’m giving it a shot. Time will tell if it’s worth it. If it works out I’ll be selling my Original drivetrain.

I know the headers need that O2 bung welded up. PO has fuel injection. After seeing how restrictive that factory manifold is, and possibly valuable that existing muffler and pipe is I’m considering the switch.

 

[65swb45]

You know, nobody ever asked you what the splines look like on the tail shaft, or if you’ve looked inside the trans?

 

[96 Bronco]

maybe you can see them in this picture . the splines aren't boogered up and i took the top cover of and everything looked clean, gears looked intact, etc. this whole exercise is taking it on faith that the fellow mud member I bought this from was honest. I talked with him long enough to feel confident in doing the work. Hopefully in a couple weeks I can report back that it drives better than ever - but I'm sure I'll have a bunch more questions in the meantime.

Like this one - evaluation of my floor tells me that I can't simply just bolt in the factory bucket seat brackets. I have the factory tool box under the drivers seat and very much would like to keep it - this is occupying the same space the later model triangular seat bracket lives in. At least that's what i can tell from photos. So if i want buckets it means I'm fabbing a mount system- correct?

65swb45 I sent you a message yesterday about your t-case possibly for sale

 

[4Cruisers]

Like this one - evaluation of my floor tells me that I can't simply just bolt in the factory bucket seat brackets. I have the factory tool box under the drivers seat and very much would like to keep it - this is occupying the same space the later model triangular seat bracket lives in. At least that's what i can tell from photos. So if i want buckets it means I'm fabbing a mount system- correct?

To get you started here is some info, see post #5:

Late model seats in older 40.

 

[65swb45]

maybe you can see them in this picture . the splines aren't boogered up and i took the top cover of and everything looked clean, gears looked intact, etc. this whole exercise is taking it on faith that the fellow mud member I bought this from was honest. I talked with him long enough to feel confident in doing the work. Hopefully in a couple weeks I can report back that it drives better than ever - but I'm sure I'll have a bunch more questions in the meantime.

Like this one - evaluation of my floor tells me that I can't simply just bolt in the factory bucket seat brackets. I have the factory tool box under the drivers seat and very much would like to keep it - this is occupying the same space the later model triangular seat bracket lives in. At least that's what i can tell from photos. So if i want buckets it means I'm fabbing a mount system- correct?

65swb45 I sent you a message yesterday about your t-case possibly for sale

View attachment 1893646

Per my sig line (not visible to some ‘smart’ phones) please leave me a VM at my shop. Thanks.

 

[Dizzy]

Pardon the hijack, how does this 4-speed output look?