Cruiserdrew
On the way there
A lot of wear. Normal at high miles.
2F into a 72 FJ40 need transmission advice
- Thread starter 96 Bronco
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A lot of wear. Normal at high miles.
- Thread starter
- #42
Motor is out
So I can not find a used trans case that looks worthy, and I can’t afford a rebuilt one, so I’m using my 3 spd case I already have. More in that decision later. Ive already ordered the adapter gear and bearing kit. I ready many times over on this site about how easy it is to install this gear, and how it’s been covered many times in the faq/ tech. Well, I must be search challenged because I can find lots of threads that mention it, I can find coolerman’s Site about his rebuild - but I can not find a tutorial or description of the work involved to just swap out the input gear. Anyone help?
Secondary reason I decided to go the 3 spd route is that a friend with a 76 fj40 pointed out the hump in his floor is longer to accommodate the trans shift linkage being 3 1/2” futher back. Some searches for that specific issue led me to believe that this is an issue, but those who stayed with the 3 spd trans case were able to narrowly escape cutting there floor.
So, anyone help on the transfer input gear install? Thanks
So I can not find a used trans case that looks worthy, and I can’t afford a rebuilt one, so I’m using my 3 spd case I already have. More in that decision later. Ive already ordered the adapter gear and bearing kit. I ready many times over on this site about how easy it is to install this gear, and how it’s been covered many times in the faq/ tech. Well, I must be search challenged because I can find lots of threads that mention it, I can find coolerman’s Site about his rebuild - but I can not find a tutorial or description of the work involved to just swap out the input gear. Anyone help?
Secondary reason I decided to go the 3 spd route is that a friend with a 76 fj40 pointed out the hump in his floor is longer to accommodate the trans shift linkage being 3 1/2” futher back. Some searches for that specific issue led me to believe that this is an issue, but those who stayed with the 3 spd trans case were able to narrowly escape cutting there floor.
So, anyone help on the transfer input gear install? Thanks
for what it's worth, the some PO converted my '72 40 to the 4-speed transmission, they re-used the original 3spd transfer case
bench seats so nice should fetch a pretty penny with restorer-types
- Thread starter
- #45
Now that everything is out it’s much easier to understand the linkage issue. It seems that I could just make a simple bracket of flat bar to move the linkage connection to the transmission back 3 1/2”. I’ll have to loose the bent plate portion that attaches to the top cover, but I don’t really see what it’s doing - maybe it acts as a gate to keep the shifter from falling? Any pics you can post of your modified linkage?
sorry, I don't have any pics of my 4spd tranny/3spd transfer case combination anymore - it went to Chachie when the H55F went into my 40
- Thread starter
- #48
I’ve seen that link but it’s not exactly telling. I’ve never opened a transfer case before, maybe it will make sense when I’m in there put I can’t believe there’s not some pics at least of the process somewhere on here?
Try these;
forum.ih8mud.com
It’s a link. I’m still trying to get used to new software.
For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.
forum.ih8mud.com
It’s a link. I’m still trying to get used to new software.
@Trollhole The FSM for '75 chassis and body links you to the '75 2F engine FSM. '80 is when they use the 'split case,' right? '71 FSM is a .rar file, which is new to me. '58 to '70 it will be, but the big question is what to do for the SSTs?
- Thread starter
- #51
so I've scoured the service manuals couple guys sent links to, and then came across this total build thread on the mud site with excellent photos. it featured a full transfer case teardown and I noticed this attached photo where he placed his input gear on the transmission shaft before installing the transfer case. couple that with some language in the service manual about the gears falling out - and I'm at the question.... is it that easy? have I been worrying about nothing? BUT.....i still have to install the PTO gear spacers and I'm not finding anything on that. Any help?
Also saw some chatter that I may need to buy new mounting bolts for the transfer case to the transmission? Also do I need new large nut and spacer on the back of the transfer case to the transmission shaft? where in the world do I get those?
Also saw some chatter that I may need to buy new mounting bolts for the transfer case to the transmission? Also do I need new large nut and spacer on the back of the transfer case to the transmission shaft? where in the world do I get those?
Could you link us to the total build?
- Thread starter
- #53
Builds - Doc's 1978 FJ40 Rebuild
Next was the installation of the new rollers to the inner input shaft where it will ride on the output shaft. A good bit of grease helps hold them in place as well as a snug fit. . . I was worried that they would all drop down into the bottom of the transmission case when I went to install the...
forum.ih8mud.com
guys name is tractordoc
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
Look at the upper left corner of the diagram below, it shows the difference in bolts for mounting the 3-speed (or 4-speed) transfer case to the 3-speed and 4-speed transmissions.
You should be able to get the correct length bolts used here on MUD.
You should be able to get the correct length bolts used here on MUD.
When I did mine I did a couple of things.
Concerning the bolts, I think a couple of the shorter ones were still available new from Toyota at the time 4 years ago. I had to source the long one used here on Mud. The 3speed bolts will not work. On the 4 speed they have to go through the housing on the back of the case and into the cast box. I seem to recall the thread pitch was different too, but I can't remember for sure.
The input gears for the transfer will fall out one by one through the side cover as you separate the two boxes. The new gear will slide on as you go back together, then a spacer, then the PTO, then another longer spacer on the back end. You have to change the bearing in the rear of the transfer case. I had to source, used the longer spacer to use on the 4 speed shaft. The 3 speed input shaft sits almost flush with the bearing on the back, the 4 speed protrudes deep into the black tin cover and requires a spacer to tighten down the nut and set the torque. I am running the PTO so I sourced the proper 4 speed PTO gear. I think you will just have to seek out the used spacers.
On the early 4 speeds the straight linkage between the transfer case are and the rotating "L" piece on the nose cone was just as you mentioned, 3 some inches longer to accommodate the longer 4 speed case. As the you shift into 4wd, just the nose cone shaft moves to slide the dog clutch on the front output. As you push the lever sideways, it rotates the arm on the top of the case to slide a collar between high gear, neutral and low gear. The entire settup rattles like crazy as it ages while driving. I opted to get a later 4 speed transfer shifter that is one piece instead of the 3 speed two piece lever and changed the arm on the rear top of the transfer to the 4 speed type. It needs to be either changed, or the weld ground off and rotated 90 degrees. This allows one linkage, that can be built at home with a pivot ball on one end that swings that arm the other way as you push over. It eliminates some parts and rattles. Sorry I don't think I have a pic, but search out a 4 speed picture I think you can get the idea.
You will still have to move the tranny hole back in the tunnel. I think you will also have to enlarge the transfer hole and go with a little newer 3 speed cover, or even just go for the 4 speed cover. One take 3 bolts, the other 4 as I recall.
Concerning the bolts, I think a couple of the shorter ones were still available new from Toyota at the time 4 years ago. I had to source the long one used here on Mud. The 3speed bolts will not work. On the 4 speed they have to go through the housing on the back of the case and into the cast box. I seem to recall the thread pitch was different too, but I can't remember for sure.
The input gears for the transfer will fall out one by one through the side cover as you separate the two boxes. The new gear will slide on as you go back together, then a spacer, then the PTO, then another longer spacer on the back end. You have to change the bearing in the rear of the transfer case. I had to source, used the longer spacer to use on the 4 speed shaft. The 3 speed input shaft sits almost flush with the bearing on the back, the 4 speed protrudes deep into the black tin cover and requires a spacer to tighten down the nut and set the torque. I am running the PTO so I sourced the proper 4 speed PTO gear. I think you will just have to seek out the used spacers.
On the early 4 speeds the straight linkage between the transfer case are and the rotating "L" piece on the nose cone was just as you mentioned, 3 some inches longer to accommodate the longer 4 speed case. As the you shift into 4wd, just the nose cone shaft moves to slide the dog clutch on the front output. As you push the lever sideways, it rotates the arm on the top of the case to slide a collar between high gear, neutral and low gear. The entire settup rattles like crazy as it ages while driving. I opted to get a later 4 speed transfer shifter that is one piece instead of the 3 speed two piece lever and changed the arm on the rear top of the transfer to the 4 speed type. It needs to be either changed, or the weld ground off and rotated 90 degrees. This allows one linkage, that can be built at home with a pivot ball on one end that swings that arm the other way as you push over. It eliminates some parts and rattles. Sorry I don't think I have a pic, but search out a 4 speed picture I think you can get the idea.
You will still have to move the tranny hole back in the tunnel. I think you will also have to enlarge the transfer hole and go with a little newer 3 speed cover, or even just go for the 4 speed cover. One take 3 bolts, the other 4 as I recall.
- Thread starter
- #56
Specter has the bolts for $100 with shipping! This is adding up fast - little things, radiator hoses, gaskets, motor mounts, etc. I ordered spacers for the pto gear from Advance Adapter. I really appreciate it MoCoNative
- Thread starter
- #57
MoCoNative, do you recall if the big nut on the back of the transmission shaft interchanges between the 3 and 4 spd?
Ya, thought they were different, you should use a new one anyways, they are like the diff as I recall, you stake it when torqued down.
I hear you on the cost. I tried to do it economically, but the little things you just mentioned bit me too.
I hear you on the cost. I tried to do it economically, but the little things you just mentioned bit me too.
- Thread starter
- #60
i took that big nut off and tried it on the 4 spd - no dice. I've got an ad in the classifieds, but anyone know where I can get one? is that a hardware store thing possibly? it will be difficult to find b/c its pretty big.
But surprisingly enough I also tried the transfer case mounting bolts in the back of the 4 spd transmission and they all threaded in fully by hand. do i have a hybrid or is there some mis-information about?
But surprisingly enough I also tried the transfer case mounting bolts in the back of the 4 spd transmission and they all threaded in fully by hand. do i have a hybrid or is there some mis-information about?
