Trying to get 4spd transmission dropped from a 2f - stuck (1 Viewer)

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Rear main engine seal. When I pulled the assembly way back when to replace the seal, dad (old aviation guy) told me that new seal will leak too, he could tell by the feel. Sure enough it still leaked. I now have the speedi sleeve to install with a new seal this late spring when it dries out.

I need to get speedi sleeves for the front axles - the flats have 2 groves cut in them from not having hubs for most of its life.
 
I want to thank whomever it was that suggested putting a bottle jack against the drip pan to push it. It took me a while to get that pan off but I'd be scraping my knuckles raw till next month without that idea... when it works, it works.
Cleaning the pan:
Next, degrease, scotch pad, and orange paint. Then the gasket! Tomorrow, the rear main. I'll take pictures of the bottom of the engine, wondering if it's possible to clean it.
 
To make it easier, remove the rear bearing cap to install your rear main seal. You already have the oil pan off, so you can remove it no problem. Afterward, it gets torqued down quite a bit. I think something like 130lbs or was it 160lbs? Not too sure, but have a torque wrench with you. Don't forget to add RTV sealent to your oil pan gasket when installing. People here recommend "blue rtv" since I think it's oil resistant. I did it on mine and is working great so far. As to clean the engine, you can use car degreaser from the auto parts store, but it's pretty expensive after having to buy a few cans hust to clean the greasy Fj40. You can buy a can of oven cleaner and use that instead. Cheaper and will cut through the grime easier. Just be careful not to leave it on for too long since it's kinda corrosive and don't get it on any rubber parts. And don't get it in your eyes!
 
To make it easier, remove the rear bearing cap to install your rear main seal. You already have the oil pan off, so you can remove it no problem. Afterward, it gets torqued down quite a bit. I think something like 130lbs or was it 160lbs? Not too sure, but have a torque wrench with you. Don't forget to add RTV sealent to your oil pan gasket when installing. People here recommend "blue rtv" since I think it's oil resistant. I did it on mine and is working great so far. As to clean the engine, you can use car degreaser from the auto parts store, but it's pretty expensive after having to buy a few cans hust to clean the greasy Fj40. You can buy a can of oven cleaner and use that instead. Cheaper and will cut through the grime easier. Just be careful not to leave it on for too long since it's kinda corrosive and don't get it on any rubber parts. And don't get it in your eyes!
I have instructions on the oil pan removal/reinstall in my sig. You may find it helpful. You will have to query Snap-Ups for a pic, as I was far less computer savy when I wrote it.
 
That's weird. I would think loosening it a bit though would be enough to install it. With the bearing cap completely off, I was able to slap it in there with zero issue; even a toddler could have done it at that point. It was like those childhood games where you put the correct toy block into the correct hole. Torquing down the bearing cap afterward did not cause the rear main seal to bind or pop out in anyway.
 
Stuck at the rear main. Every time I start to put it on the spring pops out. I dropped the cap a bit to make it easier… seems about impossible right now. Tips or tricks?
It almost sounds to small try packing the seal with grease. Like @DesertFJ40 said it should slide on with ease
 
That's weird. I would think loosening it a bit though would be enough to install it. With the bearing cap completely off, I was able to slap it in there with zero issue; even a toddler could have done it at that point. It was like those childhood games where you put the correct toy block into the correct hole. Torquing down the bearing cap afterward did not cause the rear main seal to bind or pop out in anyway.
I’ll post a video tomorrow-hope I can get on par with the childhood games.
 
To make it easier, remove the rear bearing cap to install your rear main seal. You already have the oil pan off, so you can remove it no problem. Afterward, it gets torqued down quite a bit. I think something like 130lbs or was it 160lbs? Not too sure, but have a torque wrench with you. Don't forget to add RTV sealent to your oil pan gasket when installing. People here recommend "blue rtv" since I think it's oil resistant. I did it on mine and is working great so far. As to clean the engine, you can use car degreaser from the auto parts store, but it's pretty expensive after having to buy a few cans hust to clean the greasy Fj40. You can buy a can of oven cleaner and use that instead. Cheaper and will cut through the grime easier. Just be careful not to leave it on for too long since it's kinda corrosive and don't get it on any rubber parts. And don't get it in your eyes!
My goodness, are you sure? 130lbs? Where are you reading that? I couldn't believe it when I torqued it up to 100... Here's the page out of the fsm... and i'm not claiming any kind of authority, just wondering where 130-160 came from is all... please

2025-03-20 13_17_45-Clipboard.png

sorry, wrong picture - the bearing cap - here's the right picture, with cap4 at 96 lb-ft. I can believe that.

2025-03-20 13_29_25-1991 Toyota 2F Engine Repair Manual 98126E.png
 
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