2F into a 72 FJ40 need transmission advice (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 10, 2018
Threads
8
Messages
103
Location
Louisville KY
I am almost ready to begin this swap and thought I would document it to help others as the older Fj's are needing some engine upgrades more frequently and also selfishly to have folks point out my mistakes hopefully before I make them! I am going the route that most folks say on here causes the least heartburn, which would be to install the 2f but keep my F intake, carb, and exhaust manifold. I also believe i need to reuse my F pulleys and alternator - I understand the fan and fan shroud may be an issue

Anyway, I have the majority of the parts on hand and will be starting very soon. I would like some confirmation on the transmission I have. i don't see any numbers stamped it. I'd like to make sure i have the right one and not one from an FJ60 that may cause me more work.

as you can see I don't have a transfer case. One of my major reasons for swapping is to the get the 4 spd - both for its synchronized gears and also I understand its quieter. The transmission is 12" long and is roughly 3 1/2" longer than my 3 spd - the driveshafts that came with it are also 3 1/2" shorter. I believe it is the correct FJ40 trans from a 76 FJ but I'm not positive. I know I can use my 3 spd trans case, but i don't care about getting the lower crawl ratio. is the 3 spd trans case louder? Would i be better of spending my money buying a 4 spd case instead of the conversion gear.

also attached are some pics of the FJ. My goal is to have an enjoyable semi - daily driver. it will never see offoad - sorry its way too nice. Once I get through this I'd like to get another that's not quite so nice that I could have some more fun with - but that's for later.

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Which bell housing do you have?

It would be easier to source a transfer case from a 4-speed FJ40/FJ55.
 
You are going to need a 4 speed bell housing. You can use all 3 speed or all 4 speed flywheel/clutch parts. Watch your clearance between the parking brake and frame torque tube.

I used the 2f pulleys/alt and ignition and will be running power steering and AC. If there is any possibility of adding power steering keep the double pulleys.
 
i believe i have the correct 2F bellhousing. i bought the motor/bellhousing/ and trans from the same person.. He pulled it for an LS swap. Can you see it good enough in the engine pic to identify? Fork is on the passenger side and the bolt holes appear to line up with the trans when i set them on the floor together - but i did not mate them. here's a better pic

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Silver Star.... I believe this 2F I've got has been very recently rebuilt. I can see the clutch and pressure plate inside the bellhousing and they still look new. so, to your all 3spd or all 4 spd advice - I would like to leave this clutch and pressure plate alone. i prefer the passenger side slave cylinder mount to get away from the exhaust - I've found a kit from JT outfitters that has new master, slave, and a very long braided line to accomodate moving over to the passenger side. you can also buy this kit a la carte - so can I reuse my master? its pretty new. don't now what the difference would be, Also, do I need a different bracket to locate the slave on the passenger side - if you can see in these pics its missing of the 4 spd setup.
 
i believe i have the correct 2F bellhousing. i bought the motor/bellhousing/ and trans from the same person.. He pulled it for an LS swap. Can you see it good enough in the engine pic to identify? Fork is on the passenger side and the bolt holes appear to line up with the trans when i set them on the floor together - but i did not mate them. here's a better pic

View attachment 1891080

The easiest bellhousing to use would have the motor mounts on it. The 76 through 80? bellhousings use these mounts. The later 40 and FJ60 use a crossmember under the transmission. I am on my phone and can’t tell if your bellhousing has the earlier mounts.
 
The transmission hump on a '72 will need modification or swapping to fit the 4-speed. Your 4-speed looks correct in length. You seem to be missing the brackets for the bellhousing, but I see tapped holes for them.
 
Looks like a 60 bellhousing; IOW, won’t have the three holes for the rear motor mounts. May have two.

You can try and drill and tap a third, or swap bellhousings. I do NOT recommend using it with only two bolts.
 
Looks like you have most the parts you need. I did a similar swap a few years ago behind my 1F, put in the lower gear ratio first gear 4 speed designated the H41. Really nice crawl ratio. You will like the 4 speed either way, wish I had swapped it 20 years ago. On the clutch stuff, I kept my 3 speed/1F stuff as it was in good shape, but the newer clutch design is alot smoother, keep the 4 speed/2F if it looks good. I think your master will work fine.

I also rebuilt my 3speed transfer while I was at it. Still pretty noisy. The main issue you will have is the bolt pattern is bigger on the 4 speed drive shafts you have vs the 3 speed. If the shafts are good, use them because you will have some cost in getting yours shortened and lengthened. That way they will bolt up the transfer, all you will have to do is get new flanges for the diffs. There are some universal flanges out there that I think will work and are not too pricey. 4 speed transfer should be a little less noise, not as quite as the later split cases, but you need one with the brake on the back from a 40 either way and will bolt right up to your tranny. They are also a stronger case.
 
Looks like a 60 bellhousing; IOW, won’t have the three holes for the rear motor mounts. May have two.

You can try and drill and tap a third, or swap bellhousings. I do NOT recommend using it with only two bolts.

Doesn't a 60 bell have the big 3F cast in the top?

To the OP, the figure 8 shape will be tilted slightly to the passenger side if it is a 60 bell. Toyota clocked the tranny/transfer to flatten the driveshafts in a 60. On a 40 bell it will have all the bolt holes in sidefor the engine mounts and the figure 8 will be straight with the engine.
 
Doesn't a 60 bell have the big 3F cast in the top?

To the OP, the figure 8 shape will be tilted slightly to the passenger side if it is a 60 bell. Toyota clocked the tranny/transfer to flatten the driveshafts in a 60. On a 40 bell it will have all the bolt holes in sidefor the engine mounts and the figure 8 will be straight with the engine.

The later 60 bellhousings have a 3f stamp.
 
sounds like i need to give you guys some more photos of the bellhousing.

i tried to get the missing mounts from the person i bought all this off and he was using them - he was pretty confident my existing mounts will work. I will try to measure and verify that tonight as well as get more photos of the side of the bellhousing.

I know about the different driveshaft flanges - found out the hard way when I swapped to the 3:73 gears! i have a couple rear end yokes/flanges lying around and 2 sets of driveshafts (1 set for 3 spd and 1 set for 4 spd) so hopefully something works.

Yes I also know about cutting the floor for the shifter location - I'm not super excited about that but it has to happen I guess. I really want to run carpet anyway for the sound - right now i feel like I'm in a tin can inside an echo chamber. You can see my floor here and why I would like to preserve it. Anyone who has the right tunnel and wants to sell can PM me I guess. I've only seen 1 on the classified section and it was cut up and covered in bedliner.

Also if anyone has the 4 spd transfer case I'm looking to buy.

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No one has mentioned too much about the crossmember - does this mean I got the correct trans so i don't have to hack it up?
 
No one has mentioned too much about the crossmember - does this mean I got the correct trans so i don't have to hack it up?

It’ll be close but if you are installing everything in one piece should fit if you don’t want to hack your frame. To service parking brake you can remove rear motor mounts and tilt drivetrain back while watching fan at radiator and valve cover at firewall.

Where did you find your 40?
 
Your existing motor mounts should bolt on fine. I think the three speed passenger mount even has the holes to mount slave to it. There is actually a molded bump in the floor pan on that side for that reason. Universal for either side, depended on where the steering wheel was put at the factory, early 40's had the slave on the respective drivers side of the truck. Later they were just all passenger (right) side mounted.

Crossmember is probably going to be an issue. Is it just a straight tube, with a bend on each end, or does it have "U" shaped bend just over the rear driveshaft and kind of lays back. The straight tube will probably be too tight. Mine fit in my 73, kind of seemed that the tube had already been designed for a 4 speed, as it was optional in some markets by then. 72 may be too early.

Pretty tranny hump, my 4 speed shifter did not hit the 3 speed hole. I got the transfer to work out, but my hole was larger than your early hole. I had to enlarge the tranny hole towards the rear of the truck. Took the peice I cut out and flipped it over. Did some delicate welding, but covered all the ugliness with FJ60 shifter boots. Nice thick quiet boots, much larger, but better than the 3 speed boots. Does not look as stock and clean as what you have now. 4 speed boot from a 40 has a pretty good foot print also, I think it will cover the hole movement.
 
Ok, got some pics of bellhousing bolt holes for motor mounts.... three on each side looks fine. Also is a pic of cross member, it’s u shaped and should be ok????

To answer Jdc1, I got my FJ at a Mecum auction - pretty crazy, spontaneous, but I was there to buy and the FJ just really did it for me. Probably should have thought it through since buying I’ve already done the disc brake swap, changed the gears, found a hardtop, put on a lift, new wheels, new tires..... you get it because now I’m explaining to my wife why I drove 8 hours to buy an engine for a car I just bought and paid good money for!

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Oh and like MoCoNative said it looks like my passenger side engine mount will already accept the clutch slave cylinder
 
I would make the call on the tcase based on what yours looks like when you drop it and open it up. If the teeth where the hi lo collar engage the high speed gear look ok, buy the transition kit. If it looks like it will need an overhaul, then consider the 4 speed case for quietness.
 
Cant believe I forgot this so far, but I really can’t believe it’s something wrong seeing as the guy I bought it from just pulled it from a running Fj ...... but I can’t get the trans output or input to turn when it’s in gear. It turns a fraction of an inch then locks. I took he top cover off ( the smaller 6 bolt one) and the gears looked good. The shafts spin in neutral fine. Any advice on this?
 

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