Builds 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together (7 Viewers)

[subzali]

? The knuckle shims have nothing to do with diff gear backlash ?


...via IH8MUD app

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

? The knuckle shims have nothing to do with diff gear backlash ?


...via IH8MUD app

This is true. The purpose of the knuckle shims is to perfectly center the axle so that it runs straight down the tube to the differential. This, in turn, ensures that the axle shaft does not ride on the inner axle seal, and cause premature seal failure and the resultant gear oil leaks.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Besides centering the shaft to the housing seal the shims also set the pre-load on the knuckle bearings - very important in preventing "death wobble" associated with solid axle front steering systems . Make sure you check the spec on pre-load with a scale as per the manual . Many folks skip this step and regret it later .
Sarge

 

[Stumpalama]

Subzali is right, knuckle shims have zero to do with gears. The knuckle shims ensure the knuckle is centered in relation to the axle housing center.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

? The knuckle shims have nothing to do with diff gear backlash ?


...via IH8MUD app

This is true. The purpose of the knuckle shims is to perfectly center the axle so that it runs straight down the tube to the differential. This, in turn, ensures that the axle shaft does not ride on the inner axle seal, and cause premature seal failure and the resultant gear oil leaks.

Besides centering the shaft to the housing seal the shims also set the pre-load on the knuckle bearings - very important in preventing "death wobble" associated with solid axle front steering systems . Make sure you check the spec on pre-load with a scale as per the manual . Many folks skip this step and regret it later .
Sarge

Subzali is right, knuckle shims have zero to do with gears. The knuckle shims ensure the knuckle is centered in relation to the axle housing center.

No, VV, we the MUD brain collective will not allow you to be wrong...

 

[Stumpalama]

We call that forceful backup.

 

[Vae Victus]

? The knuckle shims have nothing to do with diff gear backlash ?

Oh, thought I had read that. Wasn't thinking. Glad you guys are here to do that for me. (one for each of you).

 

[Vae Victus]

This is what my brother's bicycle shop uses:

http://www.armakleen.com

It is ultra low VOC, cuts pretty well (old timers will scoff at this), and doesn't leave any residue like diesel. Works in any parts wash machine. When I clean my drivetrain, which I do annually (at least) on my computer bicycle, it rinses completely clean with very weak dish soap and water. You can practically drink the stuff.......well.....not really, but you will think so after using diesel.

Thanks Fishy. Research commencing....

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

We call that forceful backup.

(one for each of you).

^^^ Forceful backup...haha

 

[camcruiser13]

great year to have,.

rear disc brakes and power steering will be your first mods

 

[FishTacos]

No problem, VV. Good luck finding a system you like.

The Marlin seals (sorry if this has been mentioned) for your inner axle receive high marks. I didn't use them when I rebuilt my drum front end. Probably should have but I'm going to tear it down soon for a disc swap at which point I most definitely will.

Great progress BTW, and sorry to read about your son. Hope he is on the mend. Scary.

 

[Vae Victus]

great year to have,.

rear disc brakes and power steering will be your first mods

I've already bookmarked your and Poser's rear disk mod threads. Power steering and AC are planned as well - it's hotter'n hell in TN May - Oct.

 

[Vae Victus]

No problem, VV. Good luck finding a system you like.

The Marlin seals (sorry if this has been mentioned) for your inner axle receive high marks. I didn't use them when I rebuilt my drum front end. Probably should have but I'm going to tear it down soon for a disc swap at which point I most definitely will.

Great progress BTW, and sorry to read about your son. Hope he is on the mend. Scary.

Son is mending. He played lacrosse today with the helmet right over the stitches, so I think he will be just fine.

I got seals from Kurt at CruiserParts - whole kit. Wasn't Marlin, but I'm sure it'll do for a minute.

More on the parts washer below.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I've already bookmarked your and Poser's rear disk mod threads. Power steering and AC are planned as well - it's hotter'n hell in TN May - Oct.

That's why the roof comes off!

 

[Vae Victus]

Purchased a parts washer from Harbor Freight today for $99. Good quality but for the pump, which is crap. Broken from the moment I turned it on. Maybe I don't have enough liquid in the tub (5 gallons - about 5" deep), but there was no mention of a minimum level.

I bought the Kleen Strip Green Paint Thinner (the cheap one). It's a thick-ish milky white stuff that sticks to the parts pretty well, and seems to clean well. I tested a couple of parts (without the solvent flowing of course since the pump failed to launch), and they cleaned up quickly

 

[Island Hopper]

So you put the paint thinner on the parts, let it soak a bit then scrubbed it off with the solvent?

I was just about to buy the same parts washer, maybe I'll pick a different manufacture.... Hope you can get a pump from them to replace it without much of a hassle.

 

[vtgbeemer]

I have a similar parts washer and I think mine took over 5 gallons to get it to a level that would allow the pump to pick it up. They set them up that way to allow for deep sediment to not be drawn into the pump. You should see an area on the side of the pump housing that has a grill with many holes. The level needs to be about mid way of that grill. To test the pump, just fill some of those empty jugs with water and place them in the washer to displace the solvent enough to raise the fluid level.

 

[Vae Victus]

So you put the paint thinner on the parts, let it soak a bit then scrubbed it off with the solvent?

I was just about to buy the same parts washer, maybe I'll pick a different manufacture.... Hope you can get a pump from them to replace it without much of a hassle.

Thus far I've soaked the parts in the KSG Paint Thinner (the white stuff in the tank) and set them aside to drip dry. I'll come along once I get a few parts done and scrub them off with water/simple green where appropriate. The KSG thinner is non flammable and really low odor. I'm still up in the air if I like it, but at least my wife has no idea this is in the garage she's walking thru, and she has a really strong sense of smell (thus a low tolerance for smells like gas etc).

It seems to leave very little film if you dry it with a paper towel. I'll look at the parts tomorrow that I didn't wipe off. Good thing was that it was the cheapest thinner at HD, at $8.50 per gallon.

I'm thinking that if VtgBeemer is right above, that it may be ok, but if not I'll forgo the headache of replacement under warranty and get a 3rd party one that will hold up better.

EDIT: BTW the Harbor Freight seems to be recommended over the Northern Tool brand. Must be Northern China vs Southern China. I could not find another brand that was under $1000 that seemed to be at least somewhat better than the $99 NF one. In the end, it's worth an extra $30 for a pump if I need one.

I also put a ball valve on the bottom drain. 1/4" threaded male tube to a 1/4" ball valve, to a 1/4" male to 3/8" ID nipple for some tubing. Makes it easier to drain.

 

[Vae Victus]

I have a similar parts washer and I think mine took over 5 gallons to get it to a level that would allow the pump to pick it up. They set them up that way to allow for deep sediment to not be drawn into the pump. You should see an area on the side of the pump housing that has a grill with many holes. The level needs to be about mid way of that grill. To test the pump, just fill some of those empty jugs with water and place them in the washer to displace the solvent enough to raise the fluid level.

Craig, I suspect you are right and it needs more fluid. Great idea on using the jugs filled with water. Never would have thought of that! Hoping you are right.

Need to come visit. Want to see that beautiful truck and ride in it. When are you going to put some pics of it up?

 

[Island Hopper]

Thus far I've soaked the parts in the KSG Paint Thinner (the white stuff in the tank) and set them aside to drip dry. I'll come along once I get a few parts done and scrub them off with water/simple green where appropriate. The KSG thinner is non flammable and really low odor. I'm still up in the air if I like it, but at least my wife has no idea this is in the garage she's walking thru, and she has a really strong sense of smell (thus a low tolerance for smells like gas etc).

It seems to leave very little film if you dry it with a paper towel. I'll look at the parts tomorrow that I didn't wipe off. Good thing was that it was the cheapest thinner at HD, at $8.50 per gallon.

I'm thinking that if VtgBeemer is right above, that it may be ok, but if not I'll forgo the headache of replacement under warranty and get a 3rd party one that will hold up better.

EDIT: BTW the Harbor Freight seems to be recommended over the Northern Tool brand. Must be Northern China vs Southern China. I could not find another brand that was under $1000 that seemed to be at least somewhat better than the $99 NF one. In the end, it's worth an extra $30 for a pump if I need one.

I also put a ball valve on the bottom drain. 1/4" threaded male tube to a 1/4" ball valve, to a 1/4" male to 3/8" ID nipple for some tubing. Makes it easier to drain.

Thank you for the detailed explanation. I'm the type that hits everything with the strongest stuff possible and that's not always good.
That's great info and I look forward to the next update.
Happy cleaning!