Builds 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together (5 Viewers)

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Vae Victus

Posting more than I know
Joined
Mar 7, 2013
Threads
77
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3,105
Location
Nashville, TN
Hello all, lots of new FJ40 owners today. Glad to be one of them!

After some great advice on what to purchase, I ignored it all (j/k) and bought a once red (and yellow evidently), now peeling maroon '76. Got a great price on it at $4K, but it needs lots of love.

My question, where do I start?

Main question:
It has a Weber carb on it, but no air cleaner. I plan to buy the Australian Weber air cover that Sarge or someone recommended (the oval one). What do I do in the meantime (sister in Aus, hoping she can get one and ship it here)?

Second issue - to get it running, and drive it to get new tires (old ones are dry rotted - it has been sitting for a "couple" of years (like 5-10 maybe), I need to ensure it will start. Currently it requires starter fluid or gas to be poured into the carb to fill the bowl. What's up with that? Carbs are not that familiar to me.

Pics to follow. Point out what you see.

Before you say it - the Bezel is upside down. I know, I know.
 
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Body shots. Someone painted over the ochre/yellow color with a metallic red. The primer is chalky and the paint is peeling.

Rust looks minimal in most locations.
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Laughing at the blinker....
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Rear Sill. Rusty.
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Floorboards are pretty rough, but not completely rusted through. Hmm, why is the floorboard red, and the paint under the engine bay yellow....?
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Engine bay is fairly? clean.
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Note the yellow patches showing through, and the "clamp" holding on the front quarter panel/fender.
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Original coolant catch bottle. Unattached of course.
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What kind of header is this? The guy who trailered it to me said it would support a 2 bbl Holley carb. Where's the best primer on carbs? I don't know the difference in a single and a double, pros, cons.
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Congratulations. Looks like a good rig for $4k .

If it were me, I'd get a carb from Trollhole here on mud and then a factory air cleaner. I know those Aussie filters well. They are decent but they are not cheap (nothing is on Oz) and I don't think they will ever be as good as a factory carb and cleaner.

A great option could be to have your sister send you a factory Aussie 2F air cleaner assembly with a K & N filter for that. Now that is a nice setup, but you'll spend $110 just to get it here.
 
Everyone's going to ask you what are your plans for it? Daily driver? Wheeler?

The original color code is on the plaque on the firewall. Probably mustard yellow.

If your existing tires are good enough to hold air, I'd plan on spending some time baselineing the whole rig before you invest money.

The header seems to have a good thick flange. Any leaks at the head? Clean all that crap off from around there.

It looks like your radiator needs service, at least. Take it to a radiator shop with $100 and have them go through it.

Personally, I prefer a cast-iron manifold and a stock carb. Search this forum for 'carb' and read a lot. OEM Aisin carbs are highly rated and will solve a bunch of problems including air cleaner availability. You can also get a trollhole repro that are well-received. You will have to deal with the accelerator linkage.

Don't spend all your brake-repair money on fancy tires that will then just sit and get flat spots while you're trying to afford all the other stuff. You can get pretty nice used tires to get you down the road for cheap.

Is it just me or do the front tires look toed out and/or like the camber is way wrong, which could only happen with a bent axle.
 
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Congratulations. Looks like a good rig for $4k .

If it were me, I'd get a carb from Trollhole here on mud and then a factory air cleaner....

A great option ... a factory Aussie 2F air cleaner assembly with a K and N filter for that....

Trollhole has the original Aisin carbs?

Re the Aussie 2F air cleaner: just go to the AU K&N website?

thanks,
Scott
 
Everyone's going to ask you what are your plans for it? Daily driver? Wheeler?
Weekend driver, not planning to do much 4-wheeling. Long term project and fun driver.

If your existing tires are good enough to hold air, I'd plan on spending some time baselineing the whole rig before you invest money.
Tires seem to be holding air. One was "flat" for a while according to PO. We will see. Good advice though.

The header seems to have a good thick flange. Any leaks at the head? Clean all that crap off from around there.
Header leaks: Not sure. Haven't started it yet. Delivered at 0900 this AM, and trying to (key word - trying) to get some work done. Need to charge the battery some, and get the carb cleaner out so I can start it. What crap do I need to clean off around the head? (Rookie question sorry, but all my past maintenance was on a very tight MINI Cooper engine, so I couldn't even SEE where the head attached to the engine block).


It looks like your radiator needs service, at least. Take it to a radiator shop with $100 and have them go through it.
"as least" so at most, a replacement?

Personally, I prefer a cast-iron manifold and a stock carb. Search this forum for 'carb' and read a lot. OEM Aisin carbs are highly rated and will solve a bunch of problems including air cleaner availability. You can also get a trollhole repro that are well-received. You will have to deal with the accelerator linkage.
Ok, yes, I don't want to get all caught up in needing to be a Carb expert. If OEM is great, let's go with that. I'll PM trollhole.

Front tire toe out comment...
Missed that last comment about the toe out. That is troubling. If the axle is bent it will rotate unevenly, correct? I assume I will be able to feel it?


Thanks for the start!
 
you asked.....

1. ditch those awful tires and wheels and try to source original or close to original steel wheels and some 32x10.50 or 9.50 tire.

2. Get an Aisin carb and oem aircleaner.

3. find the guy that hosed maroon all over everything and give him a black eye.

4. Get it mechanically sound (brakes, fuel, spark, steering, idle, etc.. all per FSM)

5. Enjoy it for a while and then start slowly fixing body issues.

good luck! we are all here to help.
 
My question, where do I start?

Main question:
It has a Weber carb on it, but no air cleaner. I plan to buy the Australian Weber air cover that Sarge or someone recommended (the oval one). What do I do in the meantime (sister in Aus, hoping she can get one and ship it here)?

Second issue - to get it running, and drive it to get new tires (old ones are dry rotted - it has been sitting for a "couple" of years (like 5-10 maybe), I need to ensure it will start. Currently it requires starter fluid or gas to be poured into the carb to fill the bowl. What's up with that? Carbs are not that familiar to me.

First:
Brakes.

If your brakes work and dont leak you will still want to flush the system fully and fill with new brake fluid. I like to bleed until the reservoirs are empty, remove the reservoirs, put 1/4 cup 91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol with a few tablespoons of coarse salt and shake it around to clean out all the gunk. Then rinse it well with hot water and let it dry, reinstall and get all the nasty old brake fluid out by aggressive bleeding. If you have bad brakes or leaks you have to track those down first.

Next:

Change all your fluids. Engine oil should be paid close attention. look for coolant contamination, metal bits, overall quality/sludginess. With transmission, transfer case, diffs be sure to remove your fill plugs first. That way you can at least siphon the fluid if the drain plug is seized. Drain your coolant, flush with water, use some block cleaning additive, and refill with good coolant. Inspect your fuel filter and replace. Drain your fuel tank and run some compressed air through the fuel line that goes to your fuel filter back toward your tank. and dispose of all your old fluids responsibly.

New fuel, an air cleaner, and start it up.

While you are doing all of this you could have it on stands and bring the wheels in to get new tires mounted. Just a thought.

good luck
 
Is it just me or do the front tires look toed out and/or like the camber is way wrong, which could only happen with a bent axle.

It might be the angle that the iPhone camera lens was distorting the image. Here are 3 more that are from a lower angle and different distances. I have a picture showing that the tie rod is definitely bent. Next post....
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