Builds 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together (3 Viewers)

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I am following advice from Jim C and Onur so I am just looking through cataracts. I believe Kurt from cruiser outfitters would be able to give you a definite answer as to any additional mods or gotchas needed to the steering boxes. I do not believe any are needed.

Steering is on the list after my chassis is sitting on 4 wheels. I will try to do a write up on my build thread.

Ok, I'll ping Kurt. I'm like you, saving this for later, but if I need to tap the block for a pump, I want to do that before I pick up the engine from the engine builder. I'll let him tap it.
 
Ok , I'll get off the steering bandwagon ...but I'm not putting a sagassed pump in my rig , lol .

What is the issue with the mig ? Stutter / skipping or won't feed right ?

Sarge

Detailed here, but fixed with the new gun. So I'll be welding soon.

image.jpg
 
Yeah , good thread and good job doing the diagnostics - I can't see well enough to dive into one but at one time would have done the same thing .
Bernards are great guns and seem to hold up quite well . You've got some dialing in work to do , but at least it's running now .
Start out really hot on similar sized material and dial it down to an acceptable level .
Sarge
 
Yeah , good thread and good job doing the diagnostics - I can't see well enough to dive into one but at one time would have done the same thing .
Bernards are great guns and seem to hold up quite well . You've got some dialing in work to do , but at least it's running now .
Start out really hot on similar sized material and dial it down to an acceptable level .
Sarge
You don't like my welding?

Seriously, I started out just closing my eyes just making sure it would weld and not burn up like it was before. Then I grabbed the helmet and did a little dialing in, but yea, it needs much dialing. :meh: Hell, I was still in my down jacket and penny loafers. Lucky I didn't burn a hole in my clothes.
 
Ok, next, let's discuss PS Pumps. I do think that @orangefj45 Georg is right - go with the Sag pump. What bracket can I use there? Can it mount to the block (I'll have to tap holes for any bracket since it was pre power steering).

I'm off to research, but you guys are usually faster than I can find the info.
 
V² - I have the sag pump for my mini truck box. The bracket is under the left front motor mount some how, where the smog pump bracket was. Obviously I didn't install it myself, but I've been trying to figure out where the bracket came from. Here is a photo of it.

P/S box:
DSC04574.JPG


Sag Pump located low:
140327 - FJ40 003.JPG



The back of the bracket under the left front motor mount.
IMG_1427.JPG
 
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Oh - duh. This was easy. Several Saginaw pump brackets.
Man a fre version.
Mark's Off Road Version
JTOutfitters version
BTB Products version
Cruiser Outfitters version

Just waiting to hear from Georg (@orangefj45) on his version. I understand that he was at one point manufacturing the one that wdorry was making. (Saw this on a thread from 2009). What say ye Georg?
 
It's certinally more purdy!:grinpimp:
 
My only point about the weld was heat input and you had mentioned starting on the structural welding work on the rotisserie - use same thickness and type metal to dial in the heat and get a proper pattern and penetration first , do not practice on structural work which I wouldn't expect you would do anyway . No offense intended ....

Pumps - well you all definitely know that's a sore subject - given that I'd use a PSC type mounted low with a remote reservoir mounted up on the fender and a cooler inline . For some reason seeing that canned ham on a Japanese truck just boils my Irish blood right quick . I understand the whole cost thing and there's no doubt GM made more of those pumps than there are ants on this planet so they are cheap and easy . Not overly impressed with any of the mounts - most of those designs would allow the pump to rock too much on it's pivot point unless there are bushings and allow the pulley to run off angle to the rest of the engine pulleys . The Man-a-Fre looked to be the best design out of the bunch but I think George has a much better design either in the works or done already .Yep , I'm not only picky but anal to a fault - but my point of having a Land Cruiser is it's dead-on-stupid-reliability and taking shortcuts with other maker's parts takes away from what it was meant to be - reliable .

Ok , rant off - I do feel better so thanks to the board for bearing that . Maybe they gave me the wrong meds ...had surgery Monday so this week I'm probably a bit "off" and bored to a dangerous level , so I'm here ....sorry .

BTW - I hope those posters are going to be available and would love to see some MUD member come up with a craft beer to match the rugged Land Cruiser lifestyle - I'd be up for trying any test batches later this spring...?

Sarge
 
My only point about the weld ....
....
BTW - I hope those posters are going to be available and would love to see some MUD member come up with a craft beer to match the rugged Land Cruiser lifestyle - I'd be up for trying any test batches later this spring...?

Sarge
Sarge - no offense taken. I hope you know that about me by now. I was joking of course. It was a sh*t weld.

The FJ40 Beer Poster is for sale at whatever outlet of Rainman you want to use. See his sig line or this link to get to them. The man is trying to build a solid side business, so let's support him (like we will support you Sarge, and all the other entrepreneurs here!)

EDIT: Meant to mention that I saw these posters in person today. They are very cool, nice thick paper....
 
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Dialing in welder for 3/16" tube welds.

This one on the end - the crown looks too high. Ignore side weld.
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1425002818.241292.jpg


I turned down the wire speed slightly and did the inside weld. This looks a little better. Too much circle motion. Ignore side weld.
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1425002911.465717.jpg


Thoughts from the welding crowd? Sarge?
 
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Uh , wow .

Ok , first - I hope that is scrap stock or you can grind it or cut it out . Those welds are laying on top of the metal . Start with a couple pieces of flat stock , lay them on the table with a slight bevel ground on the edges where they join and weld them from there . Tack the ends , then run your bead right down the center . If you use enough heat/voltage the puddle should lay almost flat - use the wire speed/travel rate to build the bead height from there . Should be able to weld all the way through the steel plates - if not , your not using enough heat . Go to Jody's site and check out some of his mig videos - he has a couple that show the arc shots when you are getting correct penetration , and when you are not for reference so you can learn/see the difference . What you are showing above is what usually happens with a newbie and a 110v cheap mig - not acceptable by any means . A couple good hits should break that off . Need to practice a lot on butt joints first , then try lap joints as well as tee/overhead/vertical - they are all steps and settings are different for each type . It's hard to explain this stuff in text - pics and video works a lot better ....
Start here and practice each video series , a lot -

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/mig-welding-basics.html

Or , pack a big lunch , bring beer (Smithwick's) and your machine up here - you'll learn .

Sarge
 

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