1FZ engine building and blueprinting (1 Viewer)

[hazard]

Decided to see what stroking will do for compression ratio using all previous figures except to stroke to 110.
Stock with 110 stroke gives 9.9/1 static and 9.7 dynamic compression.
Same but bore to 102 gives 10.3 and 10.
If I used flat top piston, which I prefer, it gives 11.7 static and 11.4 dynamic.
Then add aftermarket cam and get 11.7 and 10.1.
This would give lots of room to install bigger valves and unshroud to choose a decent compression ratio.
Lots of possibilities! Remember not to forget dynamic compression when calculating, easy to use calculators online as long as you have all your specs.
Calculators : United Engine & Machine Co. Incorporated, Performance Pistons

 

[scottryana]

Wow to get that kind of stroke you are going to have to offset grind the crank and run smaller diameter large end rods, and still clearance the block. At 105mm, stock rod size you have quite a bit of block to clearance.

 

[hazard]

Wow to get that kind of stroke you are going to have to offset grind the crank and run smaller diameter large end rods, and still clearance the block. At 105mm, stock rod size you have quite a bit of block to clearance.

it is a custom crank from Australia. They have done a number of 107's and say they have designed a 110 using stock journal and rod sizes. I am not as they haven't given me the specs on how they can make it work. My calculations say I would need a piston CD of 37mm and Cometic HG of .120. However I do not want an HG of more than .053 (want a tight squish band) so CD and/or rod length would have to change. There are a number of solutions but I want to see what they have in mind first. General consensus of professional stroker guys is rod/strake ratio is last to bother with, and I agree especially for my application.
The Auzzie guys insist that I buy their complete package but I want to do my own custom pistons & rods, if they won't budge and I don't like their pston specs.... we will see. I will post when I get my info and decide, if not 110 it will be 107 as there is one in USA available with smaller rod journals, and I don't have to buy their assembly so I have more freedom with custom rods and pistons.

Toyota Landcruiser 1FZ FE 5.1L Stroker Kit

 

[ThomasMore66]

Is that Australian $$? Every time I add up the cost LS looks better.

 

[hazard]

Is that Australian $$? Every time I add up the cost LS looks better.

Yes Aussie $. Any swap would be way cheaper!
However, a turn of events; the Aussie guys have not been responding, I think they are at the races, so I did some research. Turns our they have great products but very slow, or even no delivery after payment so I will not be using them.
I am in contact now with Bryant Racing Cranks in USA, much more reputable, and cheaper (3,800 for crank). However there is a catch; the sand drag boys from UAE commissioned them for the original design of the stroker cranks, so they can't sell me one without their permission, now I am just waiting to see. The UAE boys have used lots of different combos, it was an interesting conversation. If I don't get their OK Scat says they can do it but they are more expensive and 16 weeks out.

 

[ThomasMore66]

I'm glad you're doing this. I'm really torn between keeping the fz and going LS. My 94 has a hair over 98k miles and is too nice to alter. My 97 has over 170k and has a little knock on startup. Doesn't use any oil either, but I know the time is coming. About to do a little lite wheeling outside of Durango, CO with the wife and dogs in a bit. Be nice to have more power.

 

[hazard]

Stay tuned, but due to my remote location will be a slow build. Once I find a crank and decide on stroke it will speed up.
Just purchased Performance Trends engine analyzer software to estimate power of different builds. So far I have found that you can't get real big power unless you rev really high or boost high. However with a stroker and mild cams you can get lots of torque below 4000 which is real work useable.
My plan now is to build a supeulletproof blueprinted stroker shortblock and start with mild cams, heads etc. If I am not satisfied I will turbo.

 

[Kaninja]

Stay tuned, but due to my remote location will be a slow build. Once I find a crank and decide on stroke it will speed up.
Just purchased Performance Trends engine analyzer software to estimate power of different builds. So far I have found that you can't get real big power unless you rev really high or boost high. However with a stroker and mild cams you can get lots of torque below 4000 which is real work useable.
My plan now is to build a supeulletproof blueprinted stroker shortblock and start with mild cams, heads etc. If I am not satisfied I will turbo.

Nice. Do you have a target compression ratio?

 

[hazard]

Nice. Do you have a target compression ratio?

Still calculating but looking at around 9.5 or 10 static. Dynamic will be substantially lower. Would love more as its the easiest HP gain but gas is an issue.

 

[hazard]

Spent last night sonic testing block. Its a cheap Chinese tester but I constantly calibrated and was able to mic check many spots so confident results are within a few hundreds.
Since most agree ideal would be 0.200 and many people run much lower without filling block (0.18 is very common on 800 HP engines), especially as I doubt I will go over 7,500, probably 6,000, I am confident this block will handle a 2mm overbore.
Lowest was 0.209 but most were over 0.250
See data below and make any comments, you may have to enlarge to read. I cant upload spreadsheet but can send if anyone wants the data

 

[scottryana]

Pretty sure that is Totota's stand as well. They say the engine is rebuildable at 300,000km with a 1mm over bore and can be done twice. Giving the engine a 900,000km life and a final bore of 102mm.

 

[hazard]

Pretty sure that is Totota's stand as well. They say the engine is rebuildable at 300,000km with a 1mm over bore and can be done twice. Giving the engine a 900,000km life and a final bore of 102mm.

Good to know, I had heard earlier that it might only be 0.5mm twice for 2 times.
Thanks

 

[Red Merle]

I thought that was in miles? I have read others here use those numbers but they said they were in miles, not KM's.

Do you happen to know where you heard your version?

 

[hazard]

I thought that was in miles? I have read others here use those numbers but they said they were in miles, not KM's.

Do you happen to know where you heard your version?

Not sure I understand, miles kms ? usually anything with Toyo would be in km
my rig currently has 300,000 km and is still stock and runs good

 

[Red Merle]

Not sure I understand, miles kms ? usually anything with Toyo would be in km
my rig currently has 300,000 km and is still stock and runs good

There is a significant difference, that is why I asked. People that seemed to be in the know said every 300,000 miles.

I think it more sense to be miles. Mine has 255,000 miles and when I took the head off, there was zero scoring on the cylinder walls but the head had a couple of valves that were slightly out of spec. I had the head machined for flatness and then had them do a valve job and adjust the lash back to factory specs. They didn't have to do anything to the bucket shims outside of what would be normal for such a job. I didn't rebuild the lower end at that time and I don't regret it. The truck doesn't use oil and it seems very snug when under load or just idling for hours.

I did toss in a new timing chain tensioner, which seems to be fine, although there was no chatter beforehand.

 

[scottryana]

Well now you know who is truly in the know and who just pretends. Haha.

There is a significant difference, that is why I asked. People that seemed to be in the know said every 300,000 miles.

I think it more sense to be miles. Mine has 255,000 miles and when I took the head off, there was zero scoring on the cylinder walls but the head had a couple of valves that were slightly out of spec. I had the head machined for flatness and then had them do a valve job and adjust the lash back to factory specs. They didn't have to do anything to the bucket shims outside of what would be normal for such a job. I didn't rebuild the lower end at that time and I don't regret it. The truck doesn't use oil and it seems very snug when under load or just idling for hours.

I did toss in a new timing chain tensioner, which seems to be fine, although there was no chatter beforehand.

 

[Red Merle]

Well now you know who is truly in the know and who just pretends. Haha.

Touche', I seem to have cut off my ear.

That said, I still think it could be 300,000 miles, based on what I saw. Uncle T might not have known how good this engine would prove to be as reliable as it has been. If it hasn't been used in the desert a lot and people changed the oil, these motors are usually pretty good from what I have read. I see a little scoring and the like, but those trucks do have a lot more than 300,000 KMs on them.

Who really knows? They are all old, let's say that. Maybe, maybe not...

 

[hazard]

Well...
My teardown has unknown miles but it was suggested 179,000 miles.
Bearings are perfect, or near. Cyl walls and pistons very good. Head and valves good, but would be improved by just a valve lap.
This engine, if built even reasonably well, is definitely a long runner!!

 

[MoJ]

Some miles versus km fodder:
80 series tid-bits from Magazine Road Tests

 

[hazard]

Have purchased Engine Analyzer Pro software.
After inputting all my teardown specs, including all runner volumes etc. it only showed 180 hp @ 4000 and 274 to @ 3000. After a few adjustments, including using open headers ( which I am hoping is standard for oem Dyno runs) the program has returned
272 TQ @ 3500 and 213 hp @ 4500, almost matching advertised from Toyo.
See graph below. below stock graph is the same but with 107 stroke and 101 bore.it calculated
304 tq @ 3500 and 216 hp @ 4000 big tq increase
next my hopeful stroke combo at 102 / 110 which yielded a nice flat tq curve and nice and low. "No replacement for displacement"
318 tq @ 3000 and 217 @4000
sorry but still learning, so graph scales may be different

Now time to start tweaking electronically to help choose components!
If anyone wants to give me a combo spec( not too complex please) change in cam, compression, displacement etc
Just ask and give me specs and I will run it