True, but for $250 you can get 31x10.50s... For $50 more you get a tire size you aren't sure you would like, but new... If it was my money I would buy the size I wanted.
Builds 1994 4Runner project (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter D21FJ60
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Or......you could get lucky and get a set of 5 33 x 12.50 STT pros for $275 off of Facebook. 
I was pretty lucky to find that deal, but used tires is definitely the way to go when you're just getting a rig back on the road. You don't want to fork out the big bucks only for something else to go wrong that renders it unusable.
Just my .02!
I was pretty lucky to find that deal, but used tires is definitely the way to go when you're just getting a rig back on the road. You don't want to fork out the big bucks only for something else to go wrong that renders it unusable.
Just my .02!
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
- Thread starter
- #43
No you are absolutely correct. I figure if I can get 2 years 25k trouble free miles out of the truck I'll be good with it.Or......you could get lucky and get a set of 5 33 x 12.50 STT pros for $275 off of Facebook.
I was pretty lucky to find that deal, but used tires is definitely the way to go when you're just getting a rig back on the road. You don't want to fork out the big bucks only for something else to go wrong that renders it unusable.
Just my .02!
I've seen some sweet deals on FBMP for 235, 31 and 33s.
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
- Thread starter
- #44
No real updates other than me longingly looking at it every day and more spider webs growing on it. Drove it around the lot next to our house about a week ago, my son loves it. Buddy of mine said he has an extra 15" Yota rim he'd give me when i'm closer to getting it back on the road.
Since it is rod knock in the engine, how hard is that to replace? Would I have to pull the whole thing or could I drop the oil pan and replace the bearings from the bottom?
Honestly only thing from getting this on the road are the tires, engine noise and getting a state inspection.
Ball joints are making a racket but I can get those cheap from my part time job so i'm not too worried about them.
If I really wanted I could always take that opportunity to put the BJ spacers on and lift it. However what's the sense in having 3" of lift and 35"s if you can't go over 50mph? Plus that's having to get new wheels, springs, etc so eh.
edit: Just had a realization- if I am taking the time to source, buy and tear down a replacement motor...why not just remove and tear down the one that is in there? There is no guarantee the replacement won't have problems, so why not go with what I know? It'll save me at least $500 (what I've been quoted for "running" engines). That right there is enough to fix the a/c which isn't working and can go towards the interior.
Since it is rod knock in the engine, how hard is that to replace? Would I have to pull the whole thing or could I drop the oil pan and replace the bearings from the bottom?
Honestly only thing from getting this on the road are the tires, engine noise and getting a state inspection.
Ball joints are making a racket but I can get those cheap from my part time job so i'm not too worried about them.
If I really wanted I could always take that opportunity to put the BJ spacers on and lift it. However what's the sense in having 3" of lift and 35"s if you can't go over 50mph? Plus that's having to get new wheels, springs, etc so eh.
edit: Just had a realization- if I am taking the time to source, buy and tear down a replacement motor...why not just remove and tear down the one that is in there? There is no guarantee the replacement won't have problems, so why not go with what I know? It'll save me at least $500 (what I've been quoted for "running" engines). That right there is enough to fix the a/c which isn't working and can go towards the interior.
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D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
- Thread starter
- #46
Love the tailgate on this thing
Also realized that the previous must’ve swapped the seats and door panel on one of the doors because the truck has limited badging but tweed seats and one tweed door panel
. I think seat wise I’ll be getting some Jetta seats to bolt into factory brackets as I read that they can do so with no modifications.
Also realized that the previous must’ve swapped the seats and door panel on one of the doors because the truck has limited badging but tweed seats and one tweed door panel
. I think seat wise I’ll be getting some Jetta seats to bolt into factory brackets as I read that they can do so with no modifications.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
I just ran across this thread and thought I'd chime in. If you keep the 3.0L and rebuild it (or not), definitely check out and replace, if needed, the vacuum valve on the power steering pump. One day when my son drove my '93 4-Runner away from his van pool parking lot after work, one of the other van pool riders noticed blue smoke out of the tailpipe. At about the same time, the power steering ATF level in the pump reservoir dropped pretty quickly, but there was no sign of a major leak at the pump. It turns out that when the valve goes bad, ATF is sucked into the intake manifold. I'm 99% sure that was the cause of the blue smoke, because the blue smoke at start-up went away after replacing the valve, and the ATF level in the pump reservoir is holding pretty steady.
The vacuum valve on the power steering pump is part of the idle-up system that kicks in when the steering is towards the far right or far left of its travel.
The vacuum valve on the power steering pump is part of the idle-up system that kicks in when the steering is towards the far right or far left of its travel.
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
- Thread starter
- #48
thanks for the input, thats good to know. It does look like the PS pump puked a ton of fluid out but still works fine so i may reuse it when i do the swap. As of right now plan is to find another 3.0 and put it in, saw a post whre someone claimed to have dropped an LS into a 2nd gen but when i asked for a thread link he gave me a phone # and said call him so yeah dunno about that.
Other than the tailgate ...why not just buy a 3.4 3rd gen 4runner?
joseywales
Renaissance Redneck
I’m going to ruffle some feathers no doubt, but unless this thing was free, and needed parts you have easy access to, and the skills to quickly install, you’re better off with something else. Based on your comments about tire prices etc, I don’t think you want a big project, which is what you have.
The 90-95 4Runners are the red headed stepchild of the Toyota 4x4 world, second only toFJ”Cruisers”. Their suspension is marginal at best, their interior is meh, their engines are ok, but both are very prone to popping head gaskets, and they are super prone to rust.
On the other hand:
84-89 4Runners are convertible. Enough there to negate any other issues.
96-2001 4Runners come with either the 3.4 or 2.7, both of which are really good engines, are much more civilized to dd, come with available factory did lock, and don’t rust as much.
If you can find someone to buy this 94, I’d sell it as fast as they can pull their money out, and put that towards a running/driving truck. Maybe sell your ES and buy a nice 3rd Gen 4Runner and use that as your dd, and build it up as time and funds allow.
The 90-95 4Runners are the red headed stepchild of the Toyota 4x4 world, second only toFJ”Cruisers”. Their suspension is marginal at best, their interior is meh, their engines are ok, but both are very prone to popping head gaskets, and they are super prone to rust.
On the other hand:
84-89 4Runners are convertible. Enough there to negate any other issues.
96-2001 4Runners come with either the 3.4 or 2.7, both of which are really good engines, are much more civilized to dd, come with available factory did lock, and don’t rust as much.
If you can find someone to buy this 94, I’d sell it as fast as they can pull their money out, and put that towards a running/driving truck. Maybe sell your ES and buy a nice 3rd Gen 4Runner and use that as your dd, and build it up as time and funds allow.
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
- Thread starter
- #53
I appreciate the input, as it so happens I will probably be selling it in the next few weeks. We decided to move and I don't have any space or time to deal with the truck. Sad to see it go, but if everything goes the way we want I should be in a position in a few months to buy something newer-thinking 1st gen sequoia on 285s....
I'm not going to say I'm 'ruffled', but this post got my attention.
First, I do agree that the Gen2 4Runner was not one of Toyota's better offerings. That said ...
I've been considering another 4Runner. I keep going back and forth between Gen2 (there, I said it), Gen3, and Gen5. Personally, I think the Gen3 is my favorite version. But, I like tailgates. Lift gates, for my needs, suck. Even Land Cruisers still have a tailgate.
So, what am I thinking (or, should that be, "fk Pappy, what the he** are you thinking?")? Find a Gen 2, V6, 5-speed. Nuke the 3.slow, which is without doubt the worst engine Toyota ever put in a 4Runner (talking USA here), and do the popular 3.4L swap. While the torsion bars are not ideal, they work and the Gen2 4R came with coils in the back. A compromise. The Gen2 also is right-hand drop, so installing a gear-driven t-case is easy, as would be doubling up those t-cases. As I recall, the Gen3 is left-hand drop. Poo.
I don't know ... what I get will depend on what I find, and how much money. If a nice 1998-99 V6, 5-speed, locked Gen3 fell into my lap I would probably jump on it. But those things are impossible to find. At this point, it's all talk and dreaming, so it doesn't matter.
I actually really, really like 2nd Gen Runners... and I have owned every generation except a 4th Gen. (8 4Runners total...)
I agree. 2nd gen gets a bad rap because of the 3.0. Otherwise they're really nice. Ya, no pop top sucks, but lets be real, most people driving new 1st gens weren't taking the tops off anyway.
The four doors are nice compared to a 1st gen, if you have tailgate window issues. (i have a pet peeve about working windows :0)
A 3.4 swap in one of these rigs really brings it to life.
If you look hard, you can find 2 door versions.
The four doors are nice compared to a 1st gen, if you have tailgate window issues. (i have a pet peeve about working windows :0)
A 3.4 swap in one of these rigs really brings it to life.
If you look hard, you can find 2 door versions.
If you look hard, you can find 2 door versions.
My whole point in getting something else is I want 4 doors. Accessing my gear in the '85 sucks.
I know about retrieving gear in a 1st gen. Rocketbox up top helped my situation.
The 2nd gen two door comment wasn't really directed towards you, just adding to the conversation.
Rocketbox up top helped my situation. The 2nd gen two door comment wasn't really directed towards you, just adding to the conversation.
joseywales
Renaissance Redneck
I’m not dissing the 2nd gens, just pointing out that the odd numbered generations are “better” than the even numbers. I’ve seen some awesome 2nd gens, and one nice 4th. At least the 4th Gen had a V8 option!
I wanted a convertible so that led me to the only and obvious choice. I have a 100 series so the 4 door box is ticked. If I were buying a 4Runner to daily or build for adventure travel, it would be a 3rd Gen 100%. I bought a locked 3rd Gen for super cheap (it needed a rad and the seller thought it might have a bad head, but nope). I put a basic lift in it, scored some MTs on Taco wheels off CL for super cheap, and had a great little rig for under $3000. The wife hated the color, so I sold it for $6000 and eventually bought my 1st Gen. pic of it and the 100 below just because we all like pics...
As for the 3.0 thing, there are definitely better engines out there, but mine actually moves the ‘89 pretty damn well, and as long as it’s still running reliably, it’s staying in it. I’d love to stuff a 3.4 in mine, and that’s the plan for when the 3.0 craps itself. I should probably just buy a 3.4 and then the 3.0 will run forever! There is a salesman at our local Toyota dealer who still has his ‘89 4Runner that he bought new. His 3.0 has 500,000 miles on it and it’s still running perfectly. Mine just cracked 200,000.
