92 4Runner - 63 conversion

[AcroSteve]

So I've been reading the big thread over on pirate, but just so much of it is based on trucks that started with leafs. I'm converting from coils, so reference points are different. There's some 4runner references, but with the age of the thread, many picture links are broken.

I could just about figure out the mounting locations myself. I just like confirmation.

. But even with the d-shaft problem I feel 8 1/2" puts the wheel in the perfect spot. Another way of placing it, if you have a 2nd gen. 4runner, is to put it exactly in the center of the body mount at that location. That is where 8 1/2" ends up. Since 4runners dont have an original mount.

It seems to me that almost everyone references the front mount location 1st, then the back is a little bit flexible based on shackle length and angle. Makes sense. But saying to put the front mount "in the center of the body mount at that location" doesn't make sense. There is no mount in the area.

In those pictures, I have 13" between the bottom of the frame and top of the axle housing. Pretty close to ride height.

Im probably going with the frenched in brackets from Ruff stuff. But from the looks of my layout, I'll be right at the front edge of my lower arm bracket.

Then there's the question of the shock mounts. Wide open options there.

So if anyone has any pictures or links, I'd appreciate seeing others.

Or, should I drop the chevys and go with the shorter cords? I already had 2 sets if chevy leafs laying around, which is why I'm leaning that direction.

Thanks

 

[AcroSteve]

Im very likely going to use this rock assault housing. Its a couple of inches wider than my factory and has the benefit of disc brakes.

Just gotta get some spring perches on it, and then the previously mentioned shock locations...

 

[gnob]

the correct way is s to measure the actual spring flat length. then take those measurements to the truck based off where center should be.

taking suggestions from the internet without using your tape measure on your truck is a good way to end up doing it twice.

 

[AcroSteve]

Made some progress.

I should have already ordered my brackets, but I procrastinate sometimes
I'm replacing most of the air conditioning components, so that will keep.me busy while I'm waiting.


I'm probably gonna do something similar to the top photo for my shock mounts.

Does anyone know how much space is between the top of the frame rails, and the underside of the body. Where the shock hoop will be. Ive got my body lifted way up and I forgot to measure before hand.

 

[Pat4wd]

Made some progress.

View attachment 3962506View attachment 3962507

I should have already ordered my brackets, but I procrastinate sometimes
I'm replacing most of the air conditioning components, so that will keep.me busy while I'm waiting.


I'm probably gonna do something similar to the top photo for my shock mounts.

Does anyone know how much space is between the top of the frame rails, and the underside of the body. Where the shock hoop will be. Ive got my body lifted way up and I forgot to measure before hand.
View attachment 3962510

Looks like you are getting it figured out. I just did my 2nd gen 4runner. Had been about 20 years since I had done a 2nd gen 4runner rear 63's. I always use the plumb Bob method to get my center of wheel well to spring pin measurement then tack in the hangers. Mount the axle and put weight on it to see how I like. I ended up going forward 5/8's of a inch from my original location to get the wheel where I wanted for final weld in. Nothing hard just trial and error.

 

[AcroSteve]

With Everything out of the way now.

 

[AcroSteve]

Well, while I was waiting on my suspension parts from RuffStuff, I got back on the body. And have stayed on the body, so there's nothing new on the suspension.

But the body had some rust i needed to address. Mostly the rear quarters and rockers. When I saw the way @Broski did his rock sliders, I really liked it. His sliders are welded into his body. Not directly connected to the frame. It was something I hadn't seen before and made pretty good sense. And since I was cutting out rust, it fit right into my plans.

I'm gonna build high clearance tube bumpers, so the rear quarter rust was handled by just cutting the bottoms off and enclosing them. I also opened the rear wheel opening up about 2-1/2". That's more than I needed to address the rust, but it was basically the maximum while keeping the shape about the same and not getting into the doors.

After cutting the opening, I wanted to bend a hem all along the edge for strength and to make the welding easier. So I made a tool to bend over about 3/8.

Got in a hurry, I'll deal with that big warp later

And the rocker and rear door opening after cutting out the rust.

 

[AcroSteve]

But back to the rear quarters 1st.

Cut out the rust.

New metal.

Other side is basically a mirror image of all this.



So back to the rockers. These 2nd gen 4runners have so many layers around the body mounts. And I cut out most of them dealing with the rust. I figured it wouldn't hurt to try to keep as much of the original connections as I could.
So the complete inner rocker will get welded to the slider tube, but also the extra layers at the body mounts.

I trimmed this one so that it extends past the inner rocker so that I am sure to get good welds on both.

 

[AcroSteve]

the slider is just up temporarily while I fit a couple more pieces around the rear door.

The tube is .125x2x4. Its a little bit long and will be trimmed and capped. I think they might make great air tanks for my compressor, but im curious if they would bulge over time.

Again, Richard's 80 was my inspiration. @Broski

I'm dreaming about a hybrid exo cage. That front section of tube is perfect to land a section of roll bar onto.

 

[AcroSteve]

This back side will get welded almost continuous. There are a few factory drains that I think I should probably keep open.

 

[AcroSteve]

I went ahead and finished my driver's side.

But before I jumped back in on the passenger side sliders and bodywork, I got the rear leafs tacked in place. These shackles are 5", for reference. Best i can tell, the rear axle is in the same location. And as you can see, the rear mount pretty much is at the end of my frame rail.

Oh... edit. New rear bumper and hitch will be fabbed before it leaves the shop. This is just the factory hitch I left on for lifting purposes. So disregard any chance of interference.

 

[AcroSteve]

I envy you guys that dont have to deal with too much rust.

When I cut my frame to French in the front mounts, I could see some swelling. But normally, theres not much I could do with it. This area of the frame is doubled, and vulnerable to that issue, I guess.

You can see theres about 1/4" of "rust" between the frame layers.

So I spent a good bit of time with my air hammer, and got most of it broken up and out of there

Then, I squeezed the layers back together and plug welded it before fitting my brackets.

 

[AcroSteve]

I'm in a bit of a quandary.

Ive got empty body weight on the springs, and I think my rear shackle angle isn't ideal. I think I need to extend my frame rails a few inches to get the shackle standing up more.

This is about 41deg. Springs compressed about 5" with this weight. No spare, no fuel, etc.

I'm setting the pinion angle pretty close to my transfer case flange.

Im probably gonna flip the rear pivots around and see if that changes it enough.

 

[Pat4wd]

I'm in a bit of a quandary.

Ive got empty body weight on the springs, and I think my rear shackle angle isn't ideal. I think I need to extend my frame rails a few inches to get the shackle standing up more.

This is about 41deg. Springs compressed about 5" with this weight. No spare, no fuel, etc.
View attachment 3990960

I'm setting the pinion angle pretty close to my transfer case flange.
View attachment 3990961

One good thing is the springs are at least already broken in so you dont have to contend with them breaking in. But yea I would move back a bit the rear hangers. Also turn the hanger around to where the long side has some reinforced metal to weld to. No need to extend the frame. The way you have them no the long side of the shackle hanger is welded to the weakest part of the frame since it is just thin channel at that point.

 

[AcroSteve]

Yea, I was thinking about boxing in that frame clear to the end.

With that 5" sag, it put my frame rail back to level. I don't want any more lift than I have to have. Ive still gotta tackle the front, but right now the torsion arms are fully twisted and I've got 2" ball joint spacers. But that empty rear axle housing is just 16" to center. A few inches lower than it will be with 35s.

 

[Pat4wd]

Yea, I was thinking about boxing in that frame clear to the end.

With that 5" sag, it put my frame rail back to level. I don't want any more lift than I have to have. Ive still gotta tackle the front, but right now the torsion arms are fully twisted and I've got 2" ball joint spacers. But that empty rear axle housing is just 16" to center. A few inches lower than it will be with 35s.

Either way, flip the mount around. Fixes your issue and is natually stronger. Just did mine with the exact mount. Works perfect.

 

[AcroSteve]

What did you do for your shock mounts?

And how long are they?

 

[Pat4wd]

What did you do for your shock mounts?

And how long are they?

I did a infront of the axle mount. I will be changing it but wanted to get it going quick for norcal toyota fest. It does work well though and clears the exhaust even though in pic it doesnt look like it. I like having a more positive shock engagement instead of the reduced ratio stuff like I have it now angled in. I made a cross member between the frame rails and welded shock studs on the front of axle. Still going to redo my rear axle brake line to clean it up too.

 

[Pat4wd]

I did a infront of the axle mount. I will be changing it but wanted to get it going quick for norcal toyota fest. It does work well though and clears the exhaust even though in pic it doesnt look like it. I like having a more positive shock engagement instead of the reduced ratio stuff like I have it now angled in. I made a cross member between the frame rails and welded shock studs on the front of axle. Still going to redo my rear axle brake line to clean it up too.View attachment 3991018View attachment 3991019

Oh, and I love the LSPV! Always have. They work well and in my 35 years of toyota pickups have never had one leak or fail. So they are no pretty but I like them so it stays

 

[AcroSteve]

I did a infront of the axle mount. I will be changing it but wanted to get it going quick for norcal toyota fest. It does work well though and clears the exhaust even though in pic it doesnt look like it. I like having a more positive shock engagement instead of the reduced ratio stuff like I have it now angled in. I made a cross member between the frame rails and welded shock studs on the front of axle. Still going to redo my rear axle brake line to clean it up too.View attachment 3991018View attachment 3991019

That's the direction I am heading, but was thinking of putting them at the rear. I understand the trade-off of the way yours are mounted. But it helps to get a longer travel shock in there, right?

I've got a set with 13" travel I'm hoping to use. Do you remember your travel? And no bump stops?