I am running some 12" shocks. Even with the other chevys in the rear i did before 12 always worked.
And yes doing bump stops in the next couple weeks. I was just trying to get road worthy for toyota fest.
92 4Runner - 63 conversion
- Thread starter AcroSteve
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And yes doing bump stops in the next couple weeks. I was just trying to get road worthy for toyota fest.
- Thread starter
- #22
Im wanting to keep it as low as possible while maximizing down travel. Ill probably work tomorrow to get it setting on some tires, and I'll remove all but the main leaf. Then load it down with weight to compress it to maximum tire stuff and then work out my shock mounts.
Im gonna bend a hoop for the top mounts, and hope to keep it under the body.
Im gonna bend a hoop for the top mounts, and hope to keep it under the body.
I hear you on keeping it low. Those are just 4" shackles on mine. I did not french this time though. I ran 3 leaves and then over loads as well and I am glad I did for this heavy 2nd gen. Ride fantastic too. So far it is looking like a great combo for the 2nd gen. My other goal was no blocks.. 2inch front springs with short toyota solid axle shackles, low profile hanger. So not more than 3 inches total lift.
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- #24
Ist. I tried the longest shocks I had. Rancho 9012. Which have 13" of travel and a compressed length of 19.5". At full droop I had 15-1/4, and more stroke left. But the shocks bottomed out before I achieved as much up travel as I wanted.
Plan B was a set of factory rear shocks from the Chevy truck. 10" of travel and 16" compressed. But they had those damned cross bar mounts at the top I had to deal with 1st.
So I mounted them up and lost an inch at full droop as the shocks topped out. But I was about to get the up travel I wanted. And I have about an inch of shock travel left before they bottom out.
Here's what I came up with. I've still got an inch or 2 to trim off of the ubolts after I finalize my spring package.
Part# for the Chevy shock is 344263. I'll probably check other shocks available without having to conert from the crossbar. And maybe better quality too.
The axle housings have these tie down points i didn't really want to remove, so i went to the other side of the housing for the shocks.
Mounts just tacked.
Top mount was some scrap 1/2 plate that already had 3 holes in it, so I just added 4 more to allow some flexibility. Its about 8" wide. Tube is 1-5/8
These are just 33s at full compression. Remember, my wheel openings are about 2" bigger.
Plan B was a set of factory rear shocks from the Chevy truck. 10" of travel and 16" compressed. But they had those damned cross bar mounts at the top I had to deal with 1st.
So I mounted them up and lost an inch at full droop as the shocks topped out. But I was about to get the up travel I wanted. And I have about an inch of shock travel left before they bottom out.
Here's what I came up with. I've still got an inch or 2 to trim off of the ubolts after I finalize my spring package.
Part# for the Chevy shock is 344263. I'll probably check other shocks available without having to conert from the crossbar. And maybe better quality too.
The axle housings have these tie down points i didn't really want to remove, so i went to the other side of the housing for the shocks.
Mounts just tacked.
Top mount was some scrap 1/2 plate that already had 3 holes in it, so I just added 4 more to allow some flexibility. Its about 8" wide. Tube is 1-5/8
These are just 33s at full compression. Remember, my wheel openings are about 2" bigger.
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Nice looking mounts! Not sure I would go inverted like that, and I dont think you would ever be able to achieve that uptravel either. The springs will have a much shorter life if you are able to travel that deep.
- Thread starter
- #26
Its gonna be a bit harder to stuff the tire like this when I put the other 2 leafs back in. Not really sure about the Chevy overload. If I use it, I'll definitely shorten it up. I understand it helps with axle wrap. But if also got some other spring packs I can get another leaf from.
I left that top link mount on my housing thinking I could make a top link somehow to stop any axle wrap. I think I've seen that before, not sure though. Length of it is probably pretty critical.
I left that top link mount on my housing thinking I could make a top link somehow to stop any axle wrap. I think I've seen that before, not sure though. Length of it is probably pretty critical.
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- #27
Well, I'm ready to weld up the housing, but dont want to warp it. Not sure how much pressure to put on it. Just seat of the pants I guess.
And how much starting and stopping is recommended?
Id hope I could do a complete pass on the spring hanger, and not have to break it up. But ive never done this, but I do know its easy to warp metal. Especially a nice fat bead like is required here.
Thanks.
And how much starting and stopping is recommended?
Id hope I could do a complete pass on the spring hanger, and not have to break it up. But ive never done this, but I do know its easy to warp metal. Especially a nice fat bead like is required here.
Thanks.
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Those tubes are WAY BETTER than a factory toyota housing! Looking good!
- Thread starter
- #29
Yea, I got lucky when dad drug all his crap home and put it with mine.
I've got a front to match if I stay motivated
- Thread starter
- #30
My early mock ups were with a set of 33" tires I had already. I've since mounted up a 35 and a 37. Probably gonna be running the 35s, but I had the unmounted 37 on hand already.
So after mounting them I found i had some unused shock travel at full compression when mounted where I had them for the 33s. So I modified my mounts and added two more sets of holes. One set works for 35s, and the other for 37s. I didn't bother with anything bigger.
Full compression with the 35 hitting the body leaves just about 1/2 inch of shock travel.
Same thing on the 37 with shock in the very outer hole.
So, other than building the spring pack, the rear suspension is done.
So after mounting them I found i had some unused shock travel at full compression when mounted where I had them for the 33s. So I modified my mounts and added two more sets of holes. One set works for 35s, and the other for 37s. I didn't bother with anything bigger.
Full compression with the 35 hitting the body leaves just about 1/2 inch of shock travel.
Same thing on the 37 with shock in the very outer hole.
So, other than building the spring pack, the rear suspension is done.
- Thread starter
- #32
I'm worried about axle wrap. I think I'm gonna modify the crossmember that now only holds the exhaust and gas tank. Raise the center section of it up nearly against the body to make room for a truss similar the the old "Backbone" anti-wrap truss.
www.pirate4x4.com
Although these toyotas dont have bolts or studs around the pinion. Gotta come up with something there.
I think I can tie into that bracket and then fab another part that catches the top 4 studs of the housing.
I've got this as the starting point. I need to lengthen it around 10" and figure out the mounts. But I left the top link bracket on the diff housing for just this reason.
Anyone know the RRC logo? RRC Fabrication, Speed & Off Road out of California maybe?
Back bone and Wraptor spring wrap eliminator
Designed to fit a 14BFF axle and easily adapted to fit under most vehicles. To date we've built the crossmember to fit 67 - 91 full size chevy's. Theres a couple guys that have bought them for jeeps and we helped them get the crossmember right but never heard back how it worked out. Here's a...
Although these toyotas dont have bolts or studs around the pinion. Gotta come up with something there.
I think I can tie into that bracket and then fab another part that catches the top 4 studs of the housing.
I've got this as the starting point. I need to lengthen it around 10" and figure out the mounts. But I left the top link bracket on the diff housing for just this reason.
Anyone know the RRC logo? RRC Fabrication, Speed & Off Road out of California maybe?
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How many leaves you going to run? Overload? The chevy leaves are pretty thick and do pretty good with wrap. But if you aren't running but 2 might be a problem. I am running 3 and overload, rides good and I doubt any wrap issues.
- Thread starter
- #34
Im gonna run the older set of 3. Debating on the thick overload leaf which wouls be 4. Definitely a rock catcher full length, but I thought about shortening it to about a foot or so just to support the rest of them.
I'm getting some feedback other places about axle wrap. And I figure I'm gonna have the truck in moab where traction is massive, and worst case for wrap. I'd hate to be fighting it there.
I'm getting some feedback other places about axle wrap. And I figure I'm gonna have the truck in moab where traction is massive, and worst case for wrap. I'd hate to be fighting it there.
Here is how far mine hang out with 35s
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- #36
Well, I'm just winging it, but I think this will work.
Front mounts is pretty nailed down i think. Just gotta weld it in.
But I'm not sure yet about this rear mount.
Im gonna tie the bottom mount into a plate that will bolt to the top 4 diff bolts and the top link bracket.
But I'm gonna check some clearances, but I might raise the whole thing up a couple of inches. That upper link bracket is a bit narrow. So if I go above it, I get more leverage, and more room for bushings between the metal parts.
Shackles are 2.25" center. Johnny joint gives me about 23deg before it starts squeezing rubber. Pretty sure that will work with the articulation I'll have.
I kept it as compact as possible, but I'll ll have to clearance the floor a little bit, I think.
Im hoping that crossmember is strong enough on its own.
Front mounts is pretty nailed down i think. Just gotta weld it in.
But I'm not sure yet about this rear mount.
Im gonna tie the bottom mount into a plate that will bolt to the top 4 diff bolts and the top link bracket.
But I'm gonna check some clearances, but I might raise the whole thing up a couple of inches. That upper link bracket is a bit narrow. So if I go above it, I get more leverage, and more room for bushings between the metal parts.
Shackles are 2.25" center. Johnny joint gives me about 23deg before it starts squeezing rubber. Pretty sure that will work with the articulation I'll have.
I kept it as compact as possible, but I'll ll have to clearance the floor a little bit, I think.
Im hoping that crossmember is strong enough on its own.
I ran a set of 63's on my 88 standard cab. They were new take offs from a 2017. I only ran 3 leaves and no overload. Flexed great, soft ride but I did have axle wrap in double low so I fabbed up an anti-wrap bar quickly right before an 11 day Sand Hollow, Moab and Ouray trip. Finished about two in the morning so it wasn't my best looking work. (Did it out in the driveway) It did work great and hooked up better than I expected.
I ran it along the driver side of the center section and to the horse collar cross member. I did box it in with some plate before attaching the shackle mount.
I did add lift to the springs using my 20 ton press so maybe why it had axle wrap??
I ran it along the driver side of the center section and to the horse collar cross member. I did box it in with some plate before attaching the shackle mount.
I did add lift to the springs using my 20 ton press so maybe why it had axle wrap??
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I have parted that truck out. Here's the springs sitting out back. No interest locally. I did my first 63" set back around 2010. This set I did in 2019.
This was very low budget so I fabbed my own shackles front spring mounts and the shocks were cheapie RS5000's from back when it was Checker Auto Parts. They were only 8" travel if I remember correctly but with the angle I think I had 11" travel?? I'd have to go look for my thread on Yotatech.
I had the Sky's shock mount I think. I used a chain come-along to flex it so I could figure out my bump stops and shock placement. I added two 5/8" bolts to the shock mount so the Rancho's would fit. The shocks had a lifetime warranty so I kept warrantying them whenever they leaked. 3 times I think over the years. They actually worked well enough that I never swapped them out.
The Hiem joint on the front of the bar allowed it to rotate enough that I had no bind at all. I WAS worried that would happen but it worked great.
I had no idea what I was doing as far as geometry. I was reading tons of Pirate posts and was overwhelmed by it all. I finally just made the top bar parallel to the ground, made the length long enough to be at or near the U-joint and made the shackle length?? I'd have to go out and measure it. To add, my shackle was straight down at ride height.
I could feel it hook when I got on the gas. It didn't really feel like it lifted it, but it didn't feel like it squatted it either. It climbed like a Billy goat so I got lucky with my design.
I had the Sky's shock mount I think. I used a chain come-along to flex it so I could figure out my bump stops and shock placement. I added two 5/8" bolts to the shock mount so the Rancho's would fit. The shocks had a lifetime warranty so I kept warrantying them whenever they leaked. 3 times I think over the years. They actually worked well enough that I never swapped them out.
The Hiem joint on the front of the bar allowed it to rotate enough that I had no bind at all. I WAS worried that would happen but it worked great.
I had no idea what I was doing as far as geometry. I was reading tons of Pirate posts and was overwhelmed by it all. I finally just made the top bar parallel to the ground, made the length long enough to be at or near the U-joint and made the shackle length?? I'd have to go out and measure it. To add, my shackle was straight down at ride height.
I could feel it hook when I got on the gas. It didn't really feel like it lifted it, but it didn't feel like it squatted it either. It climbed like a Billy goat so I got lucky with my design.
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