Builds 1994 4Runner project (1 Viewer)

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D21FJ60

#LiveLaughLove.
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Bealeton, Virginia
OK, since I am stupid and would've thought to know better since I mock those who do the same (humble pie time), I am re-posting my project truck thread after erroneously putting it in the 3r gen 4runner thread.

• The tires are all shot, possibly bad ball joints in the front. It is also missing the spare wheel and tire.
• Driver side door creaks when you open it, the hinge(?) is broken and the portion where the door bolts into the body looks like it's cracking.
• Passenger side door lock was punched out at some point as the key doesn't turn and the lip is a little raised.
• Frame is extremely clean with very little rust. Body Panels have rust.
• Interior is beat to piss, so presumably a work truck. Will need a thorough vacuuming and likely replacement of all the seats. Was used as PO's landscaping company truck, as I found a leaflet and multiple business cards in the glovebox when getting the stack of records out.
• There is some sort of leak on the front of the engine as the whole front is caked in grease. Power steering pump could be the culprit, as it is caked in grease. Valve cover gaskets are leaking as well. After sitting for 4 days the truck has marked it's territory on the driveway.
• Has newer muffler/tailpipe, new spark plug wires and cap, owner said he had a guy do the TB/WP on it. There are records in the glove box but I haven’t looked at them yet, they look old.
• Milk crate with misc. parts was included- ECU, Turn signal assembly, alternator, body lift pucks and some other bits.
• Battery is 1.5 years old but was completely flat, had to jump it with my Lexus when I was there so I could hear the engine noise. The noise sounds like a scrape/rattle/tick. Will get a video today of it.
• When the truck started, blue smoke poured out. Owner said he tightened one valve cover gasket so I believe that could part of the problem is bad VCGaskets.
• Transmission shifter needs new bushings, since I can slop the shifter around and it doesn’t show the indicator staying in park.
• Owner said loss of power so severe that even driving up the slight incline where he parked it the truck was going 2mph. So transmission condition is unknown, but he never mentioned any slipping.
• Rear bumper is sagging and toast.

After charging the battery for 8 or so hours, it only had enough juice to turn the truck over for this video. Even hooking up the jumper cables from my es300 didn't give it enough to turn over, it just clicked and everything dimmed.

I didn't want to run the engine too long due to the noise and the fact that the radiator and overflow tank are completely empty, although no white smoke came out when I started the truck.

Was able to get the shop vac out and vacuum a bunch.

Also noticed the mangled sunroof controls. Pretty sure there is a new unit in the milk crate full of parts.

Video of it running-is this jumped timing? PO said he had someone do the TB/WP, and by the time he sold it there was a total lack of power.


Pictures are as follows:
  • before vacuuming
  • after vacuuming
  • mangled sunroof assembly
  • rust on front passenger door
  • dirt and rust on tailgate hinge and area
  • front seat to give idea of worn out state of truck and the missing seat cushion with the busted door handled and sunken lock
  • Busted drive side door stop/hinge/can't recall proper term for part
before.jpg

after.jpg



front passenger door.jpg


tailgate corner.jpg


interior 1.jpg


interior 2.jpg


door.jpg
 
After talking to a mechanic friend of mine, I wonder if the timing could've gotten off somehow.
The PO said the TB/WP were replaced about 2 years ago, yet the loss of power was 3 months ago.
My thought is the TB tensioner went bad and timing jumped, therefore resulting in the loss of power.

What says you, 'Mud?
 
I did think it sounded like a bad bearing, since I presume bad bearings universally have the same sound.
PO said he never experienced overheating, although even with a newer (1 yo) radiator, the rad and overflow tank are dry...which is suspect. However the two times i've had it start I never saw white smoke come out.
Could it be possible that the HG failed before he owned it, was fixed but the bearings finally gave out?
 
Possibly. But having no water in the system, it of course, wouldn't smoke.

At this point you need to run compression and drain and inspect the oil.
 
:flush: literally looking at the 3.4 conversion right now. I don't know if I have the time or funds to dedicate to that. Should the head gasket(s) be bad, is it cheaper to pull them and have them remilled than it is to do the 3.4 swap? I'm sure that's been answered but i'm lazy right now...
 
I think if you have any mechanical skills at all, the 3.4 is the better choice. As long as you aren't in Kommiefornia.
Donors are generally found for under a G. The wiring is really pretty simple.
 
Don't have emissions where I live so it's all good.
I'd like to consider myself mechanically inclined.
Reading up on it, just sounds tedious but on the whole not something that couldn't be done in a few weekends time.
Just need to invest in a cehrry picker and donor...
 
Reading up on it, just sounds tedious but on the whole not something that couldn't be done in a few weekends time.

Optimistic, at best. Plan on a months worth of weekends.

Just need to invest in a cehrry picker and donor...

Around here the 5VZE is a dime a dozen at the upull. It should be easy to acquire.
 
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Thanks for the input. Why exactly would it take so long? Due to the wiring having to be sorted out?

Despite being on 'mud for a decade and reading threads for countless hours i've never engaged something as complicated as an engine swap of any sort so please forgive my ignorance on the matter.

Would swapping a chevy 4.3/350/4.8/5.3 be an easier feat so long as there is a plug and play wiring harness available?

Thx again
 
If you were to buy a harness and crossover pipe, the swap could basically be done in a weekend.
There really isn't any fab other than the crossover and maybe some misc brackets.

My brother and I swapped a 3rz into an RE truck in 13 days after work. That includes fabbing mounts, exhaust and doing the wiring.
Another buddy has the 3.4 swaps down to days.
 
Its been ten years now.
I didn't really do the donor thing so not really apples to apples
I also built my harness, crossover, SAS, and misc fab stuff. Paying someone labor (@100/hr) adds up fast.
So i spent 700$ on my motor.
300$ on my clutch
Probably another 200$ on clutch pedal, Brackets, fuel line, exhaust stuff.
So i would frankly say, doing the work yourself you should be able to do it under $1k plus the donor.
I actually did build a spreadsheet when i did mine so i could sorta track wtf i was doing.
 
I think that's what you meant. If not then I apologize.
 

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