Builds 1994 4Runner project (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Don't have emissions where I live so it's all good.
I'd like to consider myself mechanically inclined.
Reading up on it, just sounds tedious but on the whole not something that couldn't be done in a few weekends time.
Just need to invest in a cehrry picker and donor...

I was able to take two trucks apart and do a full body swap in 5 days. I think you can get a 3.4L swap done in two weekends tops. Motor mounts are the same, bellhousings are the same. Really big differences are going to be the exhaust crossover and the wiring...and you can buy parts already ready to bolt in. You should at least be able to have the motor swapped in in a weekend I'd think. One day to pull, one day to install...without any headaches of course. :hillbilly:



How much easier can it get?!
 
Thank you, that helps!
I was looking around on ORS and it seemed to have pages of parts for the swap and it got a bit confusing. I intend on keeping the A340, my understanding is this is what drives the need to incorporate the T100 ECU.

I am trying to do this as inexpensive as possible to keep the minister of finance as pleasant as can be during it all.
 
Last edited:
Another question- people are saying they put a 2" BL on. Don't really want to go that route, prefer to keep the truck as stock as possible. Is there an idea how much clearance is needed to keep the manifold from hitting the hood? Something like stacking washers and getting a longer bolt for the hood hinge?

Looking on the TOS site it seems that you have to have at least a 1" body lift. Although that means I could go to 33x1.5's....
 
Last edited:
Another question- people are saying they put a 2" BL on. Don't really want to go that route, prefer to keep the truck as stock as possible. Is there an idea how much clearance is needed to keep the manifold from hitting the hood? Something like stacking washers and getting a longer bolt for the hood hinge?

Looking on the TOS site it seems that you have to have at least a 1" body lift. Although that means I could go to 33x1.5's....

Yeah you'll need to install a body lift before the swap so the intake manifold clears the hood. Really easy though and a nice start to making this thing a BA off road rig! :hillbilly:
 
Body lifts are pretty straight forward? Lift body up around mount and put puck in? or do I have to unhook trans shifter, brake lines, etc?

And the goal for this truck is to make it weekly warrior and use it for house projects, tow yard trailer, etc. Not big into crazy off roading but i wouldn't not turn down a fire road. Suspension on it seems tight per the jump on the bumper test.
 
Last edited:
Body lifts are pretty straight forward? Lift body up around mount and put puck in? or do I have to unhook trans shifter, brake lines, etc?

And the goal for this truck is to make it weekly warrior and use it for house projects, tow yard trailer, etc. Not big into crazy off roading but i wouldn't not turn down a fire road. Suspension on it seems tight per the jump on the bumper test.

Yup pretty straight forward. Shouldn't have to disconnect anything you're not disconnecting already for the motor swap. 1" isn't going to affect anything.

If you went above 2"...then you'd be treading in some deep waters.
 
I just replaced my body mounts which is the about the same process as a body lift. Pretty easy. I don't think I included any details, but there is a recent post I did on the subject.
 
I do wonder, before I go and pull the engine and spend $$$ on a swap, would it be worth it to satisfy my curiosity and pull the timing cover and inspect the timing, WP and all that? Listening to the sound it seems as though it could be timing off or wp. Had the WP go bad on my old pathfinder and it was a similar sound.
Also, the 3.4 conversion, is it feasible to think I could get away for around a grand, presuming the donor could be had for $400?
I know the 3.0 is a dog but it would be nice to get some use out of it and not plunk down $$$ right away.


This thing is toast. Drove it around my house a few short times and it's puking oil from at least under the valve cover gasket.
 
Last edited:
To keep this from being a broke mans musings and still tech related- I went through the milk crate of parts and found the following:

IMG_1111.JPG


IMG_1112.JPG


IMG_1115.JPG


IMG_1116.JPG


Curious as to what this is?

IMG_1120.JPG
 
Last edited:
Another question- is it necessary to swap the battery to the drivers side? Saw that someone performed the same swap but retained the passenger side battery mounting.
 
The machined aluminum things are ball joint spacers. Cheap easy front lift, hard on the CV shafts though.

The black bracket is a drop bracket for the fixed mount of the rear panhard rod. Made by Procomp. Easy to install, I've done a few. Re-centers the rear axle if you install taller coil springs.
 
Ah so me thinks he was going to lift the truck before it was driven 6 miles with a thrown rod...
 
Even though the motor can't get me far, I still was able to use it as a workbench...
I do like the tailgate on this thing.

IMG_1310.JPG
 
Picked up an engine stand and creeper on Sunday. Slowly collecting everything I need.

IMG_1979.JPG


IMG_1981.JPG
 
Not 4Runner related but I scored this for $4 in like new condition.

IMG_2309.JPG
 
Made an observation last night.
Borrowing my father's FJ60 for the day and he recently had Cooper Discoverer H3's put on in 235/75/15. Eyeballing them they looked about the same size as the mix-mash of 31"s on the 4Runner. Turns out the firestone destrination LE in 31x10.5x15 is just about 28.5" in diameter, as is the Cooper in 235/75/15. Width is 9" and Cooper is about 8" or so.

Since I am on a budget I am still thinking about getting 235/75's because the cost difference is noticeable.

Does anyone have a good guide to true tire sizes? Yes, a wider tire would be nice but for my intended use wouldn't be absolutely necessary.

Since I will only be buying a new set once every so often I don't want to get 235's and have them look like donuts, but I also don't want to fork out $100+ more than I have to if I don't.
 
Last edited:
I have thought out that route, and I think right now its more me just trying to get an idea of how much i'll be spending.
Around here a set of 4 used tires goes for about $250. I could get new 235's shipped from say WalMart and have my buddy install them at no cost for maybe $50 more.

This post was more of a "well what does 'mud think" and at the end of the day when the time comes i'll likely just go get used ones, but who knows.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom