Builds 1985 FJ60 Gets a Holley Sniper EFI Setup

[LimuEmu]

I am currently preparing to install the sniper EFI. I Just finished removing the air pump and all of the smog equipment. I installed the Idler pulley (Thanks Jim C) I pulled the carb and inspected the intake for the infamous crack at the heat riser. Luckily saw no evidence of a crack. Next step is to replace the charcoal canister and route the lines according. I am taking this slow so I don't muck anything up (no promises) I really dig this thread and the wealth of knowledge it has provided. I have a ways to go but this is like having an interactive how to manual. Thanks goes out to Dustin and the other fellas that have already done this conversion. You guys had me sold! I was wondering how you guys felt about K&N air filters and using one with this fuel injection unit. My stock air filter is in need of replacement and I thought I may go with K&N. Thoughts?

 

[Dustin Messina]

I am currently preparing to install the sniper EFI. I Just finished removing the air pump and all of the smog equipment. I installed the Idler pulley (Thanks Jim C) I pulled the carb and inspected the intake for the infamous crack at the heat riser. Luckily saw no evidence of a crack. Next step is to replace the charcoal canister and route the lines according. I am taking this slow so I don't muck anything up (no promises) I really dig this thread and the wealth of knowledge it has provided. I have a ways to go but this is like having an interactive how to manual. Thanks goes out to Dustin and the other fellas that have already done this conversion. You guys had me sold! I was wondering how you guys felt about K&N air filters and using one with this fuel injection unit. My stock air filter is in need of replacement and I thought I may go with K&N. Thoughts?

For me I stick to as much OEM stuff as I can (minus the sniper of course). I have had zero issue running Toyota air filters. You can get the air cleaner adapter from @FJ60Cam Also, if you plan on running a header make sure you get the block off play for the bottom half of your intake from @cruiseroutfit and bolt it on so you wont get any cracks under there.

 

[Seth S]

For me I stick to as much OEM stuff as I can (minus the sniper of course). I have had zero issue running Toyota air filters. You can get the air cleaner adapter from @FJ60Cam Also, if you plan on running a header make sure you get the block off play for the bottom half of your intake from @cruiseroutfit and bolt it on so you wont get any cracks under there.

Why would you develop cracks under the intake if you don't run the block off plate? Without the exhaust manifold bolted to it there is only ambient engine bay air against it and only the thermal expansion of the aluminum manifold.

 

[pebsmebler]

I finished my Sniper install at the end of March and have been loving it. Everything is smoother and easier and my gas mileage is floating around 14+ MPG which is just fine with me. Thanks to this thread and everyones input and knowledge it was a pretty simple install other than the usual 30 year old broken bolts, rotten fuel lines, etc. I drove 250 miles yesterday on the highway and it was dream! I've been having an intermittent issue when I come to a stop though, sometimes the engine stalls... Coming to a stop sign or a light after downshifting through the gears when I finally depress the clutch to come to a stop the RPM's drop off quickly and I have to give a panic rev. I haven't been able to tell any sort of variables that are different from when it drops to when it doesn't. It could be one traffic light is fine and then the next isn't. I've been doing some research around the forums and have a few ideas to try. First is double checking my throttle blade adjustment at idle to make sure i'm still in the 2-10% IAC range. After that would be to adjust the IAC ramp down, possibly the decay value? Does anyone have experience with this or have any thoughts? - Thanks!

 

[MoaByte]

I finished my Sniper install at the end of March and have been loving it. Everything is smoother and easier and my gas mileage is floating around 14+ MPG which is just fine with me. Thanks to this thread and everyones input and knowledge it was a pretty simple install other than the usual 30 year old broken bolts, rotten fuel lines, etc. I drove 250 miles yesterday on the highway and it was dream! I've been having an intermittent issue when I come to a stop though, sometimes the engine stalls... Coming to a stop sign or a light after downshifting through the gears when I finally depress the clutch to come to a stop the RPM's drop off quickly and I have to give a panic rev. I haven't been able to tell any sort of variables that are different from when it drops to when it doesn't. It could be one traffic light is fine and then the next isn't. I've been doing some research around the forums and have a few ideas to try. First is double checking my throttle blade adjustment at idle to make sure i'm still in the 2-10% IAC range. After that would be to adjust the IAC ramp down, possibly the decay value? Does anyone have experience with this or have any thoughts? - Thanks!

Me too! AFR goes way lean, usually recovers. I am also getting bogging at WOT.

 

[pebsmebler]

I checked on my throttle plate adjustment this morning. The IAC% was a little high after warming up above 160. It was around 15%. About a half turn of the screw brought it back down to 4%.... I also bumped my idle speed up to 810 from 800, I read somewhere in this post people were having good luck with that. I drove to the post office and back and it seemed to be running better than it ever has. No issues with dropping to idle when coming to a stop. Once my temp leveled off around its normal high I checked the IAC% again at idle. It was up to 6%. Going to let it be for a bit and see how things go or if it continues to change.

I don’t seem to bog with WOT but I’m using a rod linkage so I don’t ever reach 100% throttle. When I put my foot down in 4th the truck pulls through the rev range, I don’t like to let the revs past 3k though so maybe your better hearing others WOT experience.

 

[MoaByte]

I noticed the bog isn't nearly as bad after it's warmed up now. It also seems to happen only when using the brakes after downshifting. I got idle set to 13.9 AFR and 660 RPM (purrs so nice).
My thoughts are that while slowing the AFR tends to rise initially, then as the ECU tries to compensate by withholding fuel right about the time I press the brake. I guess something about the brake booster vacuum? Also, I attached the booster vac to the manifold instead of the port on the throttle body, but I don't see what difference that would make.
I too have a direct rod as a linkage and it doesn't open all the way, but if I floor it, it sounds like crap unless I back off a bit. I leaned the cruise AFR to 14.3 and WOT is at 12.9.

 

[Seth S]

Bogging is often a sign that the mixture is too rich. And stalling like described is often due to vacuum leaks. And vacuum leaks can fool the O2 sensor into thinking the exhaust is too lean and the mixture needs to be richer.

 

[MoaByte]

I will have another look.

 

[Seth S]

Basically make sure the basics are good before you go too deep trying to tune the EFI. You may find a bad gasket or a leak somewhere is causing the problem.

 

[NYIronPig]

Just got mine installed after a JimC desmog. What are the best settings to start with for the ECU? No high altitude issues for me here in NY.

 

[pebsmebler]

Just got mine installed after a JimC desmog. What are the best settings to start with for the ECU? No high altitude issues for me here in NY.

I followed the instructions from Holley for the initial startup and haven’t changed anything from there. There is a ‘wizard’ you use that gives a few prompts for your sniper model, engine size, etc. Page 39 in the MANUAL. I set my idle to 810 rpm. Running very well and Ive just been letting it learn for a few months now. Holley also makes a point of insuring correct ignition timing and valve clearances.

 

[NYIronPig]

I followed the instructions from Holley for the initial startup and haven’t changed anything from there. There is a ‘wizard’ you use that gives a few prompts for your sniper model, engine size, etc. Page 39 in the MANUAL. I set my idle to 810 rpm. Running very well and Ive just been letting it learn for a few months now. Holley also makes a point of insuring correct ignition timing and valve clearances.

Thx, will give this setup a go!

 

[MoaByte]

"I did recently tweak my AFR settings per a Red Line Cruiser recommend and I am please. Target AFR at Idle I bumped to 12.7, Target AFR at Cruise to 14.3, Target AFR at WOT to 13.8 and the Fuel prime to 130%. Motor seems to be pretty happy here and it could be a placebo effect, but it feels to have a bit more pep".
This may help @NYIronPig
I recommend running it for a few weeks at factory settings before changing anything. You should play with different settings, a little bit, keeping notes as you go. I have my idle down to 650 now with IAC at 4%. It runs great considering I still have a small vacuum or exhaust leak somewhere.
Above quote I believe was @Dustin Messina.

 

[iCruiser]

I'm noticing a whooshing when removing gas cap to refill. Is this normal for a fuel injected system pressurizing the fuel tank? Installed a new GM canister installed to eliminate the whooshing back when 2F was fed by a carb. Now the whooshing is back after installing the Sniper?

 

[wngrog]

I recommend drilling a small hole in the gas cap. There is a lot more return going on with these setups. I do it from the inside out to the cavity in the bulged our part of the cap. You can’t see it from the outside.

Also I recommend using a T off the advance line to run a check valve on the charcoal canister to draw the fumes only on acceleration

 

[MoaByte]

Mine did that, but with vacuum in the tank. Turned out the breather collector by the fuel filler was clogged. I used some bailing wire and my air compressor to clear it.
Where did you hook up the purge to vacuum line to?
I cheated and T'd it into the PCV and to the air cleaner. Anybody see any problems doing it that way? I have no gas smells.

 

[iCruiser]

I recommend drilling a small hole in the gas cap. There is a lot more return going on with these setups. I do it from the inside out to the cavity in the bulged our part of the cap. You can’t see it from the outside.

Also I recommend using a T off the advance line to run a check valve on the charcoal canister to draw the fumes only on acceleration

Great idea to drill a hole in the gas cap. Below is a pic of my canister / check value setup. The check value is held in place by the attached hoses but sits somewhat at an angle versus sitting horizontal. Do these check valves have to be perfectly level to work properly?

 

[NYIronPig]

I recommend drilling a small hole in the gas cap. There is a lot more return going on with these setups. I do it from the inside out to the cavity in the bulged our part of the cap. You can’t see it from the outside.

Also I recommend using a T off the advance line to run a check valve on the charcoal canister to draw the fumes only on acceleration

right in the middle? Through the outer metal?

 

[wngrog]

Yes