Build 1985 FJ60 Gets a Holley Sniper EFI Setup

[Dustin Messina]

Also, just a reminder the rack on my 60 is for sale. ARB Alloy $800 located in Brandon, MS. I bought a new hard shell tent (Ikamper) and going to Front Runner on all of my rigs because I need the flat rack for the Ikamper.

 

[Willard]

Drain block is right there and close. Would be my first option for sure. I am running in thermo housing with no problems as well. Threaded right in.

Can you drop a pic? I am a little unclear on where you put this in the housing. <-- this is my preferred method as I cannot use the stock location.

My concern with the drain is this; on a rebuilt or new engine is great, but I have read lots on here where that get all clogged up.

Either way is that into the adapter or direct into the block?

 

[woytovich]

Direct into the block - see my picture a little ways back. That's looking through from the left front wheel well back towards the back of the block.

 

[Dustin Messina]

Can you drop a pic? I am a little unclear on where you put this in the housing. <-- this is my preferred method as I cannot use the stock location.

My concern with the drain is this; on a rebuilt or new engine is great, but I have read lots on here where that get all clogged up.

Either way is that into the adapter or direct into the block?

View attachment 1967098

I have mine in the lower threaded hole in the thermo housing, but I plan on moving mine to the block in the location you have circled. They can get clocked at times, however, if you open yours and have good flow its not blocked. You can also run something in there before you install to make sure its clean if you'd like.

Mine seems to be working fine in the thermo housing, but I like the idea of having it in the block for a true reading better. Also, it will not be sure a stretch on the wires for the drain block. I didn't extend the harness for the temp sensor on the sniper and it is pretty snug fit. Drain block is much closer.

 

[woytovich]

Now you have me worried about blockage. When I pulled out the full drain plug assembly, with the radiator cap on and the truck cold, I got a couple of glugs of coolant and then it mostly stopped. I swapped in the sensor quickly as I didn't want to loose a lot of coolant (I had just refilled after a radiator replacement).
I was thinking the flow stopped because there was no way for air to flow in with the cap on... now I'm thinking I should open it back up to check..... ?

 

[Dustin Messina]

Now you have me worried about blockage. When I pulled out the full drain plug assembly, with the radiator cap on and the truck cold, I got a couple of glugs of coolant and then it mostly stopped. I swapped in the sensor quickly as I didn't want to loose a lot of coolant (I had just refilled after a radiator replacement).
I was thinking the flow stopped because there was no way for air to flow in with the cap on... now I'm thinking I should open it back up to check..... ?

Pop your cap and see what you get. I know when I undo my drain block I have a large flow of coolant. I can't remember if I had the cap on or off though.

 

[Willard]

Pop your cap and see what you get. I know when I undo my drain block I have a large flow of coolant. I can't remember if I had the cap on or off though.

My engine has about 5K on a rebuild so I am certain it is clean. I was more worried about future.

So that drain there are 2 parts, do you or anyone know if the sensor will go in the initial plug, or do you have to remove the adapter/ part in the actual block?

I agree looking at the position it is much closer so the wires will not have to stretch as much. I am getting ready to put the sniper on the 60 (pulled the carb last night).

I am using your idea on the throttle rod, I believe a Speedway motors have several options, I just have to measure the whole thing then get the right one.

 

[Dustin Messina]

My engine has about 5K on a rebuild so I am certain it is clean. I was more worried about future.

So that drain there are 2 parts, do you or anyone know if the sensor will go in the initial plug, or do you have to remove the adapter/ part in the actual block?

I agree looking at the position it is much closer so the wires will not have to stretch as much. I am getting ready to put the sniper on the 60 (pulled the carb last night).

I am using your idea on the throttle rod, I believe a Speedway motors have several options, I just have to measure the whole thing then get the right one.

I know my linkage road was 10 3/4" from tip to tip. I robbed the factory pedal mount and threaded it to one side. Then used a universal pivot mount on the other side to adapt to the Sniper. Straight shot and easy.

@FJ60Cam does the temp sensor thread directly to the block or in the adapter for the drain block?

 

[woytovich]

Directly into the block

 

[Willard]

I know my linkage road was 10 3/4" from tip to tip. I robbed the factory pedal mount and threaded it to one side. Then used a universal pivot mount on the other side to adapt to the Sniper. Straight shot and easy.

Yep when I saw how you did yours and somewhere you posted the length (aside from now)and the part number, which I have now. I was more thrilled about this design. I see the need for the return spring as well so that will be incoming soon.

The big thing is I keep the hand throttle with this setup, which I have so that is great.

 

[Dustin Messina]

Yep when I saw how you did yours and somewhere you posted the length (aside from now)and the part number, which I have now. I was more thrilled about this design. I see the need for the return spring as well so that will be incoming soon.

The big thing is I keep the hand throttle with this setup, which I have so that is great.

If you have your hand throttle already installed I would pull a new measurement on the throttle rod. The reason I say this is when you unhook your carb linkage the pedal with drop some. I am currently trying to install a hand throttle and have two, but one is far too long and one is too short. The rod changed the angle of my pedal slightly, not bad, but still changed it some. You wouldn't notice unless I told you, but caused the hand throttle to be about 1.5" too short. If you leave your hand throttle installed during assembly I assume your rod length with be different than mine. Just something to watch out for.

 

[Willard]

If you have your hand throttle already installed I would pull a new measurement on the throttle rod. The reason I say this is when you unhook your carb linkage the pedal with drop some. I am currently trying to install a hand throttle and have two, but one is far too long and one is too short. The rod changed the angle of my pedal slightly, not bad, but still changed it some. You wouldn't notice unless I told you, but caused the hand throttle to be about 1.5" too short. If you leave your hand throttle installed during assembly I assume your rod length with be different than mine. Just something to watch out for.

Good Tip

 

[Willard]

@FJ60Cam does the temp sensor thread directly to the block or in the adapter for the drain block?

It was direct thread

Only reason I ask on the 2 piece and which one to remove;
1. Is I plan to do this as quickly as possible, remove and replace. Ideally I do not want to drain my block as I have just replaced the coolant and fixed an air bubble in the system.
2. I have zero desire to do this with very fresh coolant in there now. Topping up is about all I plan to do.

I realize that ideally this is not the best way to do this (it certainly will be a messy way). But option 2 is not one for me right now.

 

[Dustin Messina]

So, I went ahead and decided to make the move from thermostat housing to block with my temp sensor today. I haven’t liked how my thermostat was acting so I took this time to install a new OEM stat as well. Over all I like this a lot better and looks even cleaner. I didn’t even lose half a gallon of coolant changing the stat, plugging the hole, and removing the drain block. This is the setup!

 

[Willard]

Ok so you skipped the little adapter and went straight I tot he block.
Nothing needed then. I am going to do this tomorrow now that the carb is still off.

 

[Dustin Messina]

Ok so you skipped the little adapter and went straight I tot he block.
Nothing needed then. I am going to do this tomorrow now that the carb is still off.

Yup straight in! Just make sure you have some heat protection for your wires. This passes close to the header.

 

[Willard]

Ok so have a question. While I do not mind making my own gaskets. for those of you who used the Downey adapter, did you use the gaskets?
My gaskets will not fit no matter what. The holes for the 60 intake is WAY off.
I decided I will modify the stock intake insulator and use it (need longer bolts). But am wondering anyway.

Thinking my intake was different for a '86, I used my older intake and same issue.

 

[woytovich]

According to Jim (Downey) the gasket that was sent to me has holes that do not QUITE line up. He suggested "just cut holes into an oval shape. "

 

[Dustin Messina]

Ok so have a question. While I do not mind making my own gaskets. for those of you who used the Downey adapter, did you use the gaskets?
My gaskets will not fit no matter what. The holes for the 60 intake is WAY off.
I decided I will modify the stock intake insulator and use it (need longer bolts). But am wondering anyway.

Thinking my intake was different for a '86, I used my older intake and same issue.

I used OEM carb/intake gaskets on top and bottom. Worked great.

 

[Willard]

I used OEM carb/intake gaskets on top and bottom. Worked great.

Thanks,
I decided to modify the carb insulator to work with the adapter. This will raise it up slightly and still give me the oppertunity to have some sort of heat shield for the exhaust manifold.