I just got a quote from RedLine LCs for $2,021.87 for just part not including the Holly Sniper parts themselves. Is two grand to much for supporting parts or is that just how much it costs?
EFI cost?!
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Yup. EFI is pay to play.
what is your goal with fuel injection? Real time monitoring and tweak-ability or just get in and go?
You don't need the parts/complexity of the Sniper kit just to get fuel injection.
You don't need the parts/complexity of the Sniper kit just to get fuel injection.
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- #4
The goal is better gas mileage and easy tuning. Is there another alternative to Snipers? I want to desmog to clean up my engine bay, but that will happen regardless of whether I switch to EFI or not. I am also looking at the Man A Fre performance upgrades (new headers, Weber carb, cat back exhaust). Is that a better option?
Skreddy
SILVER Star
How does it run now? An engine not up to snuff will probably be worse when you’re done doing efi.
In my experience, you won’t get better mpg or power unless you’re way out of tune now and the sniper is pretty limited in its tunability unless you get the hyperspark as well.
A proper desmog, an engine in good condition and tune; proper valve adjustment, proper carb rebuild/tune, good condition ignition system and I think you’ve equaled the benefits vs cost of Sniper efi unless you routinely make drastic elevation changes. I like my sniper in my 40, but since really dialing in my carb setup on the 60, I see less benefits to the Sniper. That being said, my wife wants an old Mustang and if we get one, I’ll put a sniper on it so she’s not fiddling with a choke or warm start vs cold start procedures, etc. There’s benefits for sure, but you just need to be realistic in what you hope for and what you’ll get.
I spent about $1800-2000 on my sniper setup in my 40. This was total cost and I did it all myself and sourced my own parts and built anything needed that I could. Prices have probably gone up since then though.
In my experience, you won’t get better mpg or power unless you’re way out of tune now and the sniper is pretty limited in its tunability unless you get the hyperspark as well.
A proper desmog, an engine in good condition and tune; proper valve adjustment, proper carb rebuild/tune, good condition ignition system and I think you’ve equaled the benefits vs cost of Sniper efi unless you routinely make drastic elevation changes. I like my sniper in my 40, but since really dialing in my carb setup on the 60, I see less benefits to the Sniper. That being said, my wife wants an old Mustang and if we get one, I’ll put a sniper on it so she’s not fiddling with a choke or warm start vs cold start procedures, etc. There’s benefits for sure, but you just need to be realistic in what you hope for and what you’ll get.
I spent about $1800-2000 on my sniper setup in my 40. This was total cost and I did it all myself and sourced my own parts and built anything needed that I could. Prices have probably gone up since then though.
Yep. Desmog and replace every single gasket if they are more than 5 years old. Lots of grief from the carb base gaskets. Either get a Chinese no smog carb or get yours rebuilt desmogged.
Then see how it runs.
Still want efi? Get an affordable fuel injection kit. The brand AFI.
It's fine EFI for around town, but you don't get a sweet screen. But you get instant fire up and a cleaner burn with an O2 sensor. It's based on OBD1 Chevy stuff and is pretty bulletproof and tons of Internet knowledge.
Then see how it runs.
Still want efi? Get an affordable fuel injection kit. The brand AFI.
It's fine EFI for around town, but you don't get a sweet screen. But you get instant fire up and a cleaner burn with an O2 sensor. It's based on OBD1 Chevy stuff and is pretty bulletproof and tons of Internet knowledge.
I have had AFI EFI for ~10 years on my FJ40 and really like it. No fancy screens, and it's a wee bit cold blooded (but I just drive through it). My MPGs dropped to 10 MPG, but I have a lot better power and tractability, and best of all, it starts and runs on 85 degree days and does not vapor lock and strand me.
I was into it for $1700; I'm sure it's gone up. I have the original/old AFI setup, not the newer/fancier one they sell. It has been 100% reliable from day 1. I had to completely fabricate a gas pedal and part of the air cleaner system - it was not 100% bolt-in.
I was into it for $1700; I'm sure it's gone up. I have the original/old AFI setup, not the newer/fancier one they sell. It has been 100% reliable from day 1. I had to completely fabricate a gas pedal and part of the air cleaner system - it was not 100% bolt-in.
Sniper EFI did not increase my gas mileage. I wouldn’t do it for that. I switched because I was tired of ethanol gas effects on my carb. My rig sits over the winter. I can turn the key after months of sitting and it starts right up now.
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- #9
Thoughts on a Weber carb? I've decided not to do EFI just based on more research and cost. Man A Fre does a "power pack" type kit with a new distributor, desmog kit, Weber carb, Est, and it seems like a good option that is right in my price range. Y'all's thoughts? I've only been doing this for a year, so I don't quite know what is needed and what is a waste of money. I'll link it below. Thanks for all of y'all's help!
- Thread starter
- #10
Man-A-Fre 2F-Engine Power Pack for 1980-1987 6x-Series Toyota Land Cruisers. - Landcruiser Parts
Unlock the full potential of your classic 1980-1987 Toyota FJ60 Land Cruiser with our Power Pack Kit. Helps to simplify your engine bay.
manafrelv.com
Skreddy
SILVER Star
Do you have an Aisin carb now? Can/will you do the work yourself?
If no to either or both of these: then buy a knockoff Aisin and rebuild it and learn/do the desmog yourself, it’s not too hard!
If yes: do the PROPER desmog, rebuild your Aisin, adjust valves and all other stuff like ignition and you’ll be plenty happy. I run a knockoff Aisin from Amazon on my 60. Had to rebuild it right out of the box and redo a desmog from PO. I have over 20k miles in 2 years on it and just finished a 600 mile round trip plus a couple hundred of miles of backroads from 2000’ to 10,000’ with no issues. With my carb and distributor tuning I’m getting about 14 mpg and can easily go faster than traffic. My engine has 285k miles on it too.
A header; eh in my opinion. Will you notice a power improvement? Your mind will tell you you did but in reality, even if it added 10 peak hp, you won’t definitively notice it. But if you have to redo the rest of the exhaust and need a new manifold, may as well do the header. Also do 2.5” exhaust all the way back!
If no to either or both of these: then buy a knockoff Aisin and rebuild it and learn/do the desmog yourself, it’s not too hard!
If yes: do the PROPER desmog, rebuild your Aisin, adjust valves and all other stuff like ignition and you’ll be plenty happy. I run a knockoff Aisin from Amazon on my 60. Had to rebuild it right out of the box and redo a desmog from PO. I have over 20k miles in 2 years on it and just finished a 600 mile round trip plus a couple hundred of miles of backroads from 2000’ to 10,000’ with no issues. With my carb and distributor tuning I’m getting about 14 mpg and can easily go faster than traffic. My engine has 285k miles on it too.
A header; eh in my opinion. Will you notice a power improvement? Your mind will tell you you did but in reality, even if it added 10 peak hp, you won’t definitively notice it. But if you have to redo the rest of the exhaust and need a new manifold, may as well do the header. Also do 2.5” exhaust all the way back!
Skreddy
SILVER Star
Just looked at that kit. For that price, you could do your desmog, rebuild a carb, tune up the engine and ignition system, and have a local exhaust shop build you all new exhaust and still probably have a grand left over.Man-A-Fre 2F-Engine Power Pack for 1980-1987 6x-Series Toyota Land Cruisers. - Landcruiser Parts
Unlock the full potential of your classic 1980-1987 Toyota FJ60 Land Cruiser with our Power Pack Kit. Helps to simplify your engine bay.
I’m not into the HEI for an F/2F but I know people are. The stock distributor likely needs a small amount of work and some cleaning inside but that’s mostly free.
The most throttle response I ever had was when I ran a Weber 38/38. Also had a big open element air cleaner right on top of it. I then ran stock carb with stock air cleaner, not bad. Then switched to Sniper with stock air cleaner which behaves about the same. I think the open element filter was the difference honestly. I want to switch to that with the Sniper because I think it looks cool.
I have headers, did I need them, probably not, but they were installed many years ago.
My vote is a proper desmog, rebuilt carb or similar, clean it all up, plugs, wires, cap, etc. Make sure to check the vacuum advance on stock distributor to make sure it functions and go from there. You’ll know the systems better, and personally for me, very satisfying. I probably would have stayed carbureted, but ethanol gas stinks.
I have headers, did I need them, probably not, but they were installed many years ago.
My vote is a proper desmog, rebuilt carb or similar, clean it all up, plugs, wires, cap, etc. Make sure to check the vacuum advance on stock distributor to make sure it functions and go from there. You’ll know the systems better, and personally for me, very satisfying. I probably would have stayed carbureted, but ethanol gas stinks.
While it was not cheap, I went the all Toyota EFI route. I installed a 3FE head on the 2f block in my FJ60. I also had the 2F built at the same time. It cost me a little over $10K about 6 years ago but it was well worth it. It now has a ton more power and it gets 16-17 mpg. It cruises at 70-75 no problem and I rarely have to downshift on hills.
BDSeff1fitty
1987 Toyota 4Runner
^2FE Route.
Did it in my previous FJ40, for the little i drove it before selling, i was very impressed at how it improved everything all around.
I had bought a running & driving junk 80 with 300k for $1000, took all my parts I needed, sold the rest off for $1100 a few days later. I rebuilt everything including a donor 2F block, but my guess is I was ~$5K into an essentially brand-new motor at the time (~2012/2013ish) when it was all said and done.
Did it in my previous FJ40, for the little i drove it before selling, i was very impressed at how it improved everything all around.
I had bought a running & driving junk 80 with 300k for $1000, took all my parts I needed, sold the rest off for $1100 a few days later. I rebuilt everything including a donor 2F block, but my guess is I was ~$5K into an essentially brand-new motor at the time (~2012/2013ish) when it was all said and done.
EFI won’t give better gas mileage. It likely will be slightly worse. EFI will yield improved drivability in all conditions. Better starting etc.
the only want to get noticeable better gas milage on older cars is to install a modern overdrive transmission
that'll be $5k or so
that'll buy a lot of gasoline
that'll be $5k or so
that'll buy a lot of gasoline
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- #18
Do you have any advice for the desmog? In theory I fully understand how to do it but the second I look at all of my vacuum lines I loose all confidence. Is there a super straight forward document that everyone uses? I also have no clue how to tune my Aisin carb or even where to start.
Skreddy
SILVER Star
Do you need to pass emissions in CO? If so, I think the desmog isn’t the best option, but rather get everything working properly.
There’s some threads here on desmogging; they spell it out pretty well. There’s a couple choices to make like keeping the HAC (high altitude compensator) or not.
Pinhead’s carb videos can walk pretty much anybody through a rebuild. Looked back through some of your older posts and looks like you’ve still got the stock Aisin. So a rebuild kit from that and some cleaner and compressed air and give it a go!
When I desmogged my 60 I used this document, ( I don’t have to pass emissions) just make sure to stay organized it’s not difficult. Along with doing this I also had my carb rebuilt and distributor rebuilt ( sent both to Jim C ) doing both of those is what really woke my 60 up.
