Builds 1985 BJ70 Story and Modifications (4 Viewers)

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My 1HZ was a 24V edition, and all the wiring on my 70-series is 12V. Onur @beno sourced a 12V Fuel Cut Off Solenoid.

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To remove this you need a 22 mm (maybe 24 mm) wrench. It was easy to do so with no body on the frame, but can't imagine this being an easy task with the engine fully installed.

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New 12V Fuel Cut Off Solenoid installed:

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I installed a new pump cover gasket (supplied in the kit), a new O-ring on the throttle control rod, and drive it through the opening of the new Boost Compensated top cover while making sure the gasket stays in place and that the top cover sits flush on the pump body. Then install the five Allen bolts removed in the earlier steps. Install the throttle control lever making sure the alignment marks are as noted when taking it apart and install the throttle lever return spring.

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There will be a plug that needs to be installed on the back of the pump cover (also supplied in the kit), install the fuel control screw, install the throttle control arm, and the fuel return banjo. There will be some creativity to get the fuel return lines to work, a little heating and bending of these two lines will be required, but it can be bent to work. Below are some photos of how mine ended up:

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Nice pics Alberto.

The pictured fuel hose is the outdated 30R6 specification, which is low pressure and not biofuel proof. Consider updating all fuel hoses to 30R9 which is rated for 100% biodiesel or alcohol, and pressure up to 180PSI.
 
Nice pics Alberto.

The pictured fuel hose is the outdated 30R6 specification, which is low pressure and not biofuel proof. Consider updating all fuel hoses to 30R9 which is rated for 100% biodiesel or alcohol, and pressure up to 180PSI.


Or even better, the correct Toyoda Gosei hose. :)
 
Is the TG hose up to the current SAE 30R9 standard? It might not be. Before buying fuel hose at the FLAPS I have to check to make sure it's not 30R7 still.

The diesel hose part numbers are all superseded from the original ones. I can look on my truck in the AM Jim and confirm.
 
Small updates. Got a new oil pressure sender from Onur:

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And also a couple of 1HZ oil filters, also from Onur (I didn't realize they were that much different from the 3B version):

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I had deleted the LSPV on the BJ70 before the 2015 trip to Moab, and even when the mod didn't leak, I was never completely happy with it. I will be installing a Walbro low pressure fuel pump (pusher pump) close to the fuel tank and my good friend Brian @gifu recommended to use a pre-filter to the Walbro pump. I decided to re-purpose the bracket where the LSPV was attach and fabricate an auxiliary fuel filter mount. This same mount will also house a Wilwood manual proportioning valve that I had installed in 2015. Here is the link to the valve I used just for reference. It has the correct M10x1.0 thread/pitch as the factory lines:

Amazon.com: Wilwood Engineering 260-12627 Adjacent Proportioning Valve Knob Style (10mm X 1.0): Automotive

I took a lot of measurements to get the filter mount (and filter) as high on the frame rails as possible, to keep it protected from axle travel and anything impacting the location of the filter and proportioning valve. Here are some photos of the simple bracket made:

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I also bought a set of 4Plus Product U-bolt flip kit to install on the 70.

4PlusProducts | FJ60 | Suspension Parts | U-Bolt Flip Kits

The U-bolt flip kit lower plates come black powder coated from Dave, but the U-bolts themselves come bare metal. I could have painted them, but decided to take a few things to get zinc plated, along with the extra fuel filter bracket, and the factory bracket that held the LSPV:

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Got extended Toyota brake hoses that go from the frame to the axle:

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And trimmed all U-bolts so they were not sticking out so much:

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Got a new fan clutch for the 1HZ:

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New V-belts for the engine as well:

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And the two soft hoses that go from the body to the frame rails on the right side of the vehicle:

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Very informative and well documented post as always. How did you have the Wilwood proportioning valve set?

U-Bolt flip is on my summer to-do list but I think there is an interference with the cable locker on either the front or rear, if I recall from a few post CDan made about them. You have ARB lockers correct?

It will be sweet to have a brand new HZJ70 when your done!;)
 
U-Bolt flip is on my summer to-do list but I think there is an interference with the cable locker on either the front or rear, if I recall from a few post CDan made about them. You have ARB lockers correct?
It interferes in the rear and only on the right side, at least on mine. I was communicating with @lcwizard over a year ago about trying to get a plate modification for the right rear to run his setup on all 4 corners but it kind of fell by the wayside. If you're interested at least that'd be 2 customers...I'm going to reach out to him again.

As usual, sweet build and documentation Alberto!
 
The current flip menu does not include an extended shock mount necessary for the difflock-equipped right hand mount.

Group buying power would be in order, along with a vehicle so equipped for engineering purposes.
 
It looks like Alberto has flipped the right rear shock to behind the housing. A custom top mount then?
 
That would solve the no right lower mount problem unless some of the other brake mods he has done are also needed to clear the rest of the shock body. IE deletion of the LSPV et al.
 
Very informative and well documented post as always. How did you have the Wilwood proportioning valve set?

U-Bolt flip is on my summer to-do list but I think there is an interference with the cable locker on either the front or rear, if I recall from a few post CDan made about them. You have ARB lockers correct?

It will be sweet to have a brand new HZJ70 when your done!;)

When I had the proportional valve I was surprise on how much I needed to restrict the flow to rear wheels (close the valve) to get even braking. I just took it for a drive, slam on the brakes, adjust and repeat until I was happy with the performance of the brakes.

I have cable lockers on mine, bought them from Sheldon a few years ago. Love them!

Regarding the new HZJ70, it will be the same 1985 beater, just hope it is a little better than in was before all this started o_O

It interferes in the rear and only on the right side, at least on mine. I was communicating with @lcwizard over a year ago about trying to get a plate modification for the right rear to run his setup on all 4 corners but it kind of fell by the wayside. If you're interested at least that'd be 2 customers...I'm going to reach out to him again.

As usual, sweet build and documentation Alberto!

The current flip menu does not include an extended shock mount necessary for the difflock-equipped right hand mount.

Group buying power would be in order, along with a vehicle so equipped for engineering purposes.

It looks like Alberto has flipped the right rear shock to behind the housing. A custom top mount then?

That would solve the no right lower mount problem unless some of the other brake mods he has done are also needed to clear the rest of the shock body. IE deletion of the LSPV et al.

Thanks for all the props. It has been a long time coming and I hope its coming closer to being done.

Regarding the U-bolt flip kit, @cruiserdan is correct, I had modified the upper shock mount so both shocks can be mounted behind the rear axle, like most newer 70-series are from factory. The aux fuel filter and proportional valve location would not interfere with any of the rear shock configurations.

A friend of mine, however, modified his lower plate so it could still be mounted forward of the axle on his BJ74. I can inquire as to what exactly he modified, but I seem to remember him mentioning it was not very difficult to do (when you own a welder). Below is a photo he sent me when I was considering modifying the lower plate instead.

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I wonder if the 60-series right rear one would work without any modification?

One cool thing that Dave has incorporated on his new plate design is that he pre-drills the lower plate for axle displacement (forward, centered, or rear), which saves you having to do so if you wish to move your front axle 1" forward like I did for the 35" tires (and also from damaging the powder coating when drilling).

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