Builds 1985 BJ70 Story and Modifications (3 Viewers)

[AlbertoSD]

Finished the alternator wiring last night. Got the 1FZ/1HZ alternator connector and pigtails from Onur at Land Cruiser Parts and Consulting:

Welcome to LCPC

JimC @FJ40Jim helped me figure out the wiring diagram for the alternator. On a 1985 BJ70 the alternator wiring is as follows, just for reference:

S - Sense (White wire)
IG - Ignition (Black/yellow stripe wire)
L - Lamp (Yellow/white stripe wire)

Below is a photo of the connector on the 1FZ/1HZ alternator (photo taken from another thread here on MUD):

Found this cool diagram in a different thread (can't remember where I saved it from). The 1FZ/1HZ alternator uses the Type 4 connector:

Also got a new 1HZ 70-series radiator and new radiator hoses from Land Cruiser Parts and Consulting:

 

[AlbertoSD]

I installed the new radiator I got from Land Cruiser Parts and Consulting and I must say that the OEM Toyota radiator is a piece of beauty. It comes with the foam to seal the front joint between the radiator and the front cowl and it also comes with a radiator cap:

Pardon the dark photos.

 

[AlbertoSD]

Then got all the parts for the air cleaner. Used the 80-series 1HDT air cleaner lid, all 80-series 1HDT connecting hoses and clamps. There is a joint between the two hoses. All the part numbers I used are shown below.

There are four clamps total for the air cleaner to turbo connections, and of these four, there are 3 different part numbers:

96111-10780 (x2)
96111-10900 (x1)
96111-10800 (x1)

These I got by going to the local dealer and giving them the part numbers:

Even when these parts are for an 80-series, they fit with no modification to the 70-series. It is a tight squeeze, but they do fit.

 

[AlbertoSD]

A photo of the engine bay with the air cleaner and air cleaner hoses installed:

 

[AlbertoSD]

A while ago I bought a Radium Engineering Catch Can:

Universal Single Catch Can

Here is a little information on how catch cans work:

Blog Post Catch Cans 101

And some photos from the Radium Engineering Website:

 

[AlbertoSD]

Real state under the hood is getting pretty busy, so finding a spot to install the catch can was not super simple. The Radium Engineering Catch can comes with a mounting bracket. I bought all the AN fittings from Radium Engineering as well. The hose I used is 5/8" fuel hose to connect the valve cover vent to the catch can, and from the catch can to the air cleaner lid.

Some photos of how I installed it:

The fittings on the catch can are push-and-lock, therefore there is no need for a hose clamp there.

 

[Tapage]

Keep me posted on how this catch can work for you ..

 

[AlbertoSD]

Keep me posted on how this catch can work for you ..

Will do, David!!

Hope to have it running pretty soon. Made an appointment to get the exhaust done, so I am working under the clock

 

[Tapage]

Will do, David!!

thanks .. looking for replacement on the provent I have in both diesel cruisers .. those are little on the bigger side ..

 

[AlbertoSD]

Little progress happened this week. Put some diesel in the fuel tank to get it started with most the electrical connections done:

Finished replacing the quick connectors I made before Moab for the Auxiliary lights with Delhi Weather-pack connectors:

Installed the grill:

And installed the center part of the bumper (still need to do the brush bar):

 

[AlbertoSD]

Got it towed to the shop to get a new 3" exhaust done. Will run 3" following the factory routing and no muffler. A 3" flex pipe was used at the outlet of the turbocharger.

Special thanks to Charles @Gun Runner 5 and Rob Smith from Odd Iron Off-Road for advice on how they did it on Charles HZJ77, and thanks to Adam and Tor @torfab for the images on how they did it on Ward's LSJ73 @wardharris. This was all very helpful, and the shop got some guidance on how to do it correctly.

 

[coldtaco]

Is that brown the Toyota 4E9?

 

[torfab]

Looking good!

 

[joekatana]

Got it towed to the shop to get a new 3" exhaust done. Will run 3" following the factory routing and no muffler. A 3" flex pipe was used at the outlet of the turbocharger.

View attachment 1529512

View attachment 1529513

View attachment 1529514

View attachment 1529515

Special thanks to Charles @Gun Runner 5 and Rob Smith from Odd Iron Off-Road for advice on how they did it on Charles HZJ77, and thanks to Adam and Tor @torfab for the images on how they did it on Ward's LSJ73 @wardharris. This was all very helpful, and the shop got some guidance on how to do it correctly.

Any pics from the underside how the exhaust is routed ?

 

[AlbertoSD]

Is that brown the Toyota 4E9?

Correct, that's the Toyota Tan 4E9

Looking good!

Thanks, Tor!

Any pics from the underside how the exhaust is routed ?

Will take a few photos this week and post them, Joe

 

[AlbertoSD]

Got some more progress done this week. Took it to the gas station and filled it up with fresh diesel:

Installed the brush bar, finished installing the winch and the auxiliary lights wiring:

 

[AlbertoSD]

Now, this one is all Chris Spaulding's @chrisspaulding findings, and I am just documenting what I did, but all credit is due to Chris.

One thing that was bugging me was the fact that the 3B Tachometer would not be able to read the signal from the Tachometer pick-up on the 1HZ. The Tachometer on the 3B/13BT reads of the flywheel, and my understanding is that it counts the number of teeth on the flywheel to calculate for 1 rpm. The flywheel on the 3B has 110 teeth:

How many teeth on a 3B flywheel/ring gear?

The tachometer sensor on the 1HZ reads off the injection pump as described in the thread below:

1HZ injection pump tacho pickup

I didn't count the number of teeth of the ring gear inside the injection pump, but I seem to remember that somebody mentioned it being 13 teeth (I will update the tooth count if I find it to be different than 13).

As you would imagine, the 110 teeth vs 13 teeth issue would make the 3B in dash tachometer not display any readings when receiving a signal off the 1HZ injection pump.

Since my BJ70 is a 12-Volt vehicle, Chris found that the Tachometer off an LJ7x would read correctly the signal for the 1HZ/1HDT as well (I think that all LJ7x variations are 12V). Both engines have the Denso/Bosch Vertelier style pump, and I would imagine that both ring gears have also 13 teeth independently of the 4-cylinder of 6-cylinder output. Chris responded a lot of my questions on his thread, and also via PM and email.

Portuguese spec BJ73 1HDT A442 swap

Thank you, Chris for doing the homework for us. This is a GREAT finding that helped me, and I am sure it will help some other people, too!

So now I needed an LJ7x tachometer to replace the current 3B type in my dash. I texted my great friend Joe @joekatana and asked him if he could source a 12V 1HZ/1HDT 70-series, or a 12V LJ7x tachometer for me. Shortly after, I got a text from Joe with these photos:

I asked Joe to send photos of the electrical connectors in the back so I could compare with the one coming out of my 70:

Thank you, Joe for sourcing all these hard-to-find parts for us 70-series people here in the U.S.!!!

 

[AlbertoSD]

So I pulled the dash apart to swap the tachometers. Gauge cluster with old 3B type tachometer:

3B tachometer on the right, LJ7x variation tachometer on the left:

I bought a new instrument cluster cover since my old one had some sort of haze near the tachometer area. Cool to find that these can still be sourced new:

And the gauge cluster assembled with the new tachometer:

 

[AlbertoSD]

I ran two wires from the 1HZ injection pump Tach sensor to the old bell-housing plug on the BJ70 wiring harness, I ran these wires quick and dirty to see if it would work just that simple and sure enough, it came to life!

I then cleaned the wires and ran them along the factory wire loom. The amber light next to the Turbo word stays on all the time. I know that Chris ran into the same thing, but it really doesn't bother me much. I don't have the boost and overboost sensors, so those lights will not be connected anyways.

Once more, thanks to Chris @chrisspaulding and Joe @joekatana for helping me to get the Tach working!!

-Alberto

P.S. I have bought a Dakota Diesel Tachometer Signal Converter that I am glad I don't have to tinker with. So I will probably sell it if somebody wants to give it a try on their vehicle

DSL-1E: Universal Diesel Alternator Tachometer Interface

 

[cruiserdan]

I gotta believe that red-line is somewhat optimistic....