Builds 1985 BJ70 Story and Modifications (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter AlbertoSD
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man, i'm really excited to see this thing fire up! humbling to know I had a very small hand in helping.
I'm planning this for the spring. be nice to have another 70!
The Kentucky Adventure Tour (KAT) | Adventure Rider
I'm planning this for the spring. be nice to have another 70!
The Kentucky Adventure Tour (KAT) | Adventure Rider
- Thread starter
- #883
- Thread starter
- #884
A little bit of a photo dump, mostly for my documenting purposes to know what has been done to the 70 and drivetrain.
Photo of new wastegate hose installed:
I pulled the injectors and sent them Progressive Truck and Tractor to get rebuilt. Dusty and Len did a great job and turned around the injectors super quick.
http://progressivetruckandtractor.com/
Before:
After:
Injectors Installed:
New injector seat and nozzle washers were used for each injectors.
Photo of new wastegate hose installed:
I pulled the injectors and sent them Progressive Truck and Tractor to get rebuilt. Dusty and Len did a great job and turned around the injectors super quick.
http://progressivetruckandtractor.com/
Before:
After:
Injectors Installed:
New injector seat and nozzle washers were used for each injectors.
- Thread starter
- #885
Since I had the valve cover off, I went ahead and checked the valve clearances. They were all within the acceptable range according to the FSM. After this, I installed the intake manifold with the Toyota gaskets. The gaskets were part of the Engine Gasket kit that I've posted before.
Installed the exhaust manifold heat shield and notched it to clear the exhaust probe.
And finally installed the cross-over pipe.
Installed the exhaust manifold heat shield and notched it to clear the exhaust probe.
And finally installed the cross-over pipe.
- Thread starter
- #886
The Oil Pan (sump) was sent to Rob Smith at Odd Iron Off-Road to get the Turbo drain bung welded to it.
Over view of Odd Iron Off Road and offerings for Land Cruisers and off road vehicles
Here are some photos of the fantastic work that Rob did.
The cleaned the old RTV gasket that was on the oil pan:
And painted the sump with engine paint:
Over view of Odd Iron Off Road and offerings for Land Cruisers and off road vehicles
Here are some photos of the fantastic work that Rob did.
The cleaned the old RTV gasket that was on the oil pan:
And painted the sump with engine paint:
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That looks like my paint booth.
That looks like my paint booth.
No, it doesn't. He has plywood under the part he is painting! <smile>
Stalker!
- Thread starter
- #890
Turbo Oil Supply and Return:
As mentioned before, Rob Smith at Odd Iron Off-Road welded the AN-10 bung to drain the turbo oil back to the sump.
Over view of Odd Iron Off Road and offerings for Land Cruisers and off road vehicles
Rob also provided all the stainless steel braided lines and fittings to complete the connections for the supply and return of the oil for the turbo. On the supply side Rob provided an assortment of fittings to be able to T off the stock oil pressure sender, clear the engine block, and connect the turbo supply line. One side of the T still holds the factory oil pressure sender as shown in this picture:
On the return side, a stainless steel braided line was also used with two fittings to match the length that I needed. The drain line turned out like shown in the pictures below:
I cannot say how thankful I am for Charles @1978HJ45 and Rob to help me with this. All the information on the threaded size connections to the block and turbo was made easy in a one stop shop to get all the correct fittings at once, rather than having to hunt them on eBay, Amazon, or specialty hose supply shops. Also, prices were more than reasonable for all the connections.
As mentioned before, Rob Smith at Odd Iron Off-Road welded the AN-10 bung to drain the turbo oil back to the sump.
Over view of Odd Iron Off Road and offerings for Land Cruisers and off road vehicles
Rob also provided all the stainless steel braided lines and fittings to complete the connections for the supply and return of the oil for the turbo. On the supply side Rob provided an assortment of fittings to be able to T off the stock oil pressure sender, clear the engine block, and connect the turbo supply line. One side of the T still holds the factory oil pressure sender as shown in this picture:
On the return side, a stainless steel braided line was also used with two fittings to match the length that I needed. The drain line turned out like shown in the pictures below:
I cannot say how thankful I am for Charles @1978HJ45 and Rob to help me with this. All the information on the threaded size connections to the block and turbo was made easy in a one stop shop to get all the correct fittings at once, rather than having to hunt them on eBay, Amazon, or specialty hose supply shops. Also, prices were more than reasonable for all the connections.
Just remember, Rob's the brains of the operation. I'm simply the public relations guy. (I answer the emails and post on 'MUD)
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- Thread starter
- #892
Last week I had the fuel tank skid plate, fuel tank straps, and wheel well fuel cover plate cleaned and powder coated black. Also got the frame fuel lines that Joe @joekatana gave me cleaned. Thank you, Joe, for providing so many parts with the 1HZ to make it easy for us.
All the cleaning and powder coating was done at American Metal Cleaning.
Also cleaned and painted the drive-shafts in my fancy paint booth @cruiserdan
And installed the drive-shafts, fuel lines, and Cruisin Off-Road Skid Plate. I had to clean it since it had some dirt and dust from last time in Moab
Cruisin Off Road - Your source for quality expedition gear
All the cleaning and powder coating was done at American Metal Cleaning.
Also cleaned and painted the drive-shafts in my fancy paint booth @cruiserdan
And installed the drive-shafts, fuel lines, and Cruisin Off-Road Skid Plate. I had to clean it since it had some dirt and dust from last time in Moab
Cruisin Off Road - Your source for quality expedition gear
- Thread starter
- #894
Got the engine filled with Oil. Choose Shell Rotella T6 SAE 5W-40 Synthetic. Had to order some Oil Filters from Onur @beno as I had a bunch of 3B OEM filters and they are very different from the 1HZ/1HDT ones:
Got a Toyota Remanufactured 12 Volt Alternator (same as alternator for 1FZ). Part numbers are listed in photos below:
And installed it on the engine:
Got a Toyota Remanufactured 12 Volt Alternator (same as alternator for 1FZ). Part numbers are listed in photos below:
And installed it on the engine:
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Don't you want to run a tundra 150 amp alt in there .. perfect time for required mods to make it work ..
- Thread starter
- #896
Hi David!
You know, when I thought about it I had already the 90 Amp alternator in my hands. But compared to the anemic 35 - 40 Amps that I got from the 3B alternator, the 90 Amps will do great, I think
- Thread starter
- #897
Peter @peterb came over to my house a couple of weekends ago and helped me start the 1HZ after turbo install, injector install, connecting rod bearing install, and all other work completed on the engine to this point. I wanted to hear the engine run prior to opening the injection pump and install the Boost Compensator. We are happy to say that engine started great with no weird noises and good oil pressure. Thanks for coming to help, Peter!
I had purchased a Boost Compensator from Yan @Akella a while ago and I will try to do as much as I can to document what was done to install it and acknowledge all the people that helped me with this.
1HZ 1HD-T Boost Compensator 22540-17550
Photo of the Boost Compensator out of the box (photo borrowed from another thread)
I had purchased a Boost Compensator from Yan @Akella a while ago and I will try to do as much as I can to document what was done to install it and acknowledge all the people that helped me with this.
1HZ 1HD-T Boost Compensator 22540-17550
Photo of the Boost Compensator out of the box (photo borrowed from another thread)
- Thread starter
- #898
For many home mechanics (like me ) the diesel injection pump is a bit of a mystery. The VE in the name of the Bosch pump used in the 1HZ, 1HDT, VW diesels, some Cummins, and many other small diesel engines stands for "Verteiler", which is German for distributor or divider. A different, but yet common kind of injection pump is the inline pump, like found on the 2H, 3B, some Cummins engines, and other Toyota diesel engines.
Before we get started, I want to say thank you to Sol @sbechtold and Brian @gifu for all the patience and guidance during this process. Like I mentioned above, the injection pump was much like a "black-box" to me and after learning so much from Sol and Brian I felt much more comfortable to tackle this. There is some "decent" information on this, but I couldn't find a single place that have all relevant information for the 1HZ Boost Compensator install. I hope this section of the thread helps somebody with the same questions. Also, to the experts, please feel free to jump in if any of the steps are incorrect and we will fix that for posterity.
Let's get a little familiar with the 1HZ (Non-turbo) injection pump:
Removing the throttle linkage would get us this view (to remove the throttle linkage just gently pry under the clip and it will come easily undone):
Let's identify some key components:
Legend:
Orange Arrow: Throttle Lever
Red Arrow: Idle Speed Screw
Yellow Arrow: Maximum Engine Speed Screw
Blue Arrow: Fuel Control Screw
Black Arrow: Fuel Cut Solenoid
An additional diagram of the injection pump identifying part of the pump:
And a good cross section diagram of a Boost Compensator for a Cummins VE Pump. Unfortunately, the diagram is in French:
The internals of the VE Pump from a Cummins, and other VE Pump equipped engines are not exactly identical to the ones on a 1HZ, but surprisingly very close.
) the diesel injection pump is a bit of a mystery. The VE in the name of the Bosch pump used in the 1HZ, 1HDT, VW diesels, some Cummins, and many other small diesel engines stands for "Verteiler", which is German for distributor or divider. A different, but yet common kind of injection pump is the inline pump, like found on the 2H, 3B, some Cummins engines, and other Toyota diesel engines.Before we get started, I want to say thank you to Sol @sbechtold and Brian @gifu for all the patience and guidance during this process. Like I mentioned above, the injection pump was much like a "black-box" to me and after learning so much from Sol and Brian I felt much more comfortable to tackle this. There is some "decent" information on this, but I couldn't find a single place that have all relevant information for the 1HZ Boost Compensator install. I hope this section of the thread helps somebody with the same questions. Also, to the experts, please feel free to jump in if any of the steps are incorrect and we will fix that for posterity.
Let's get a little familiar with the 1HZ (Non-turbo) injection pump:
Removing the throttle linkage would get us this view (to remove the throttle linkage just gently pry under the clip and it will come easily undone):
Let's identify some key components:
Legend:
Orange Arrow: Throttle Lever
Red Arrow: Idle Speed Screw
Yellow Arrow: Maximum Engine Speed Screw
Blue Arrow: Fuel Control Screw
Black Arrow: Fuel Cut Solenoid
An additional diagram of the injection pump identifying part of the pump:
And a good cross section diagram of a Boost Compensator for a Cummins VE Pump. Unfortunately, the diagram is in French:
The internals of the VE Pump from a Cummins, and other VE Pump equipped engines are not exactly identical to the ones on a 1HZ, but surprisingly very close.
- Thread starter
- #899
I will copy and paste most of the links that Sol and Brian sent, just in case anybody wants to do a read on those, but I will try to document a step by step approach (as much as I can) on what I did to install the Boost Compensator on my 1HZ.
Here is the best video that shows the Boost Compensator coming off then shows the internals. It's Cummins VE pump, but it is amazing how similar the internals are to the ones on the 1HZ:
Another video that shows the VE injection pump on a 4-cylinder diesel:
And a few good links to read:
Adding Boost Compensator to 1HZ
Fitting boost compensator to non turbo hilux pump - Offroad-Express
Turning up the pre 94 Ram diesel injector pump
Here is the best video that shows the Boost Compensator coming off then shows the internals. It's Cummins VE pump, but it is amazing how similar the internals are to the ones on the 1HZ:
Another video that shows the VE injection pump on a 4-cylinder diesel:
And a few good links to read:
Adding Boost Compensator to 1HZ
Fitting boost compensator to non turbo hilux pump - Offroad-Express
Turning up the pre 94 Ram diesel injector pump
- Thread starter
- #900
First off is to remove the Throttle Lever, there is a line-up mark on the throttle control lever and also on the throttle control rod (screw). Make sure you note how this was assembled so you can install it in the same position once you are ready to assemble. Then also remove the idle speed screw and the maximum engine speed screw (I counted how many times I had to spin the screw to remove it from the marked position, but then learned that this doesn't matter much as adjustment will the boost compensator will be much different than for the non-compensated pump):
Then remove the banjo bolt for the fuel return line. Notice that the lock-collar that was installed in the fuel control screw is also removed. You grab this collar with pliers and the collar with cleanly split open, making it very easy to remove. Remove the fuel control screw (once more, I marked it and counted how many turns I had to spin it in order to fully remove it).
Then, remove the five (5) Allen screws, four of them hold the injection pump cover to the injection pump body, and the last one (behind the pump) holds the wire for the engine speed sensor (Tachometer pick up location). To remove the cover, gently pry it off the base, while pushing down on the throttle control rod to separate it from the top cover. The throttle control rod is lightly held to the injection pump cover by an O-ring (new one is supplied on @Akella 's kit). You will end up with something like this:
Then remove the banjo bolt for the fuel return line. Notice that the lock-collar that was installed in the fuel control screw is also removed. You grab this collar with pliers and the collar with cleanly split open, making it very easy to remove. Remove the fuel control screw (once more, I marked it and counted how many turns I had to spin it in order to fully remove it).
Then, remove the five (5) Allen screws, four of them hold the injection pump cover to the injection pump body, and the last one (behind the pump) holds the wire for the engine speed sensor (Tachometer pick up location). To remove the cover, gently pry it off the base, while pushing down on the throttle control rod to separate it from the top cover. The throttle control rod is lightly held to the injection pump cover by an O-ring (new one is supplied on @Akella 's kit). You will end up with something like this:
