Builds 1978 FJ55 BATPIG

[PabloCruise]

That is too bad. A good upholstery shop can just re-cover the visors.
Aviators would be cool too...

 

[RUSH55]

 

[gonzopancho]

View attachment 3532772
View attachment 3532777

It is what it is.

 

[gonzopancho]

Push bumper-OK. Wheels-Nein!

I actually have a set of five city racer 16” wheels with 255/85R16 km3s mounted sitting in Idaho that were for another project, but now they go to this truck.

 

[RUSH55]

It is what it is.

Yes, it is.
It might be worth removing the peeled up seam sealer to see what the corrosion looks like. Either way, probably the quickest and easiest way to deal with it would be the Fluid Film method.

 

[gonzopancho]

Yes, it is.
It might be worth removing the peeled up seam sealer to see what the corrosion looks like. Either way, probably the quickest and easiest way to deal with it would be the Fluid Film method.

Rust Never Sleeps

There's more to the picture
Than meets the eye.

Yeah, there is a bit of other cosmetic and minor mechanical stuff on the list.

Was going to dry ice blast the underside of the truck, then neutralize and paint/undercoat the body. Might see about getting into that drip rail, then fluid film or similar. This all in the name of making it last until I have some of the others done.

You’ve probably seen the sheet metal screws they used to attach the sill plates poking through the floors. Shorter screws and vacuum caps are on the list.

Straighten and powder coat the bumpers, grille and front vents back to pewter or “Vegas gold”, (the color OP Machine uses to match the OEM bumper color). I’ll probably keep the push guard and powder it, too.

Question for the sty: the fender vents are different. The DS is open, the PS is closed. Should these be the same and if so, what’s “correct” for an April 1978 build? There is also a pass through in the DS inner fender that I don’t think belongs there. Opinions?

Anyway: do the obligatory baseline: change fluids, do the front end, brakes.

Rework the exhaust to not pass under the shock.

Obtain visors, mirror and associated hardware. Recondition and install.

Change the wheels & tires as mentioned. The beadlock rims can move to Pua’a.

Drive it.

 

[PabloCruise]

Dry ice blast, and then neutralize... That sounds fascinating. I know you can explain the chemistry to me, so I am to ask - what do you need to neutralize after dry ice blasting?

In for more info on the Vegas Gold color as a valid Pewter substitution!

Fender vents - I know some are open. My '74 came with closed vents. I found some open ones and went with those. IDK if they allow more air in for the passenger compartment vents, but I liked them.

That DS pass-through - maybe someone was running a snorkel on this Pig at one time? Which might explain the different vent.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

It's possible that they are supposed to be different. There is a cooling fan vent behind the driver's side one on a 1978 so maybe that's why it's open.

75353	ORNAMENT, FRONT FENDER
75365-90352	RH.
75366-90351	LH. (09/1977 - 06/1980)
75366-90352	LH. (09/1972 - 08/1977)

 

[PabloCruise]

Question for the sty: the fender vents are different. The DS is open, the PS is closed. Should these be the same and if so, what’s “correct” for an April 1978 build? There is also a pass through in the DS inner fender that I don’t think belongs there. Opinions?

Drive it.


View attachment 3533052

SOR doesn't list the upper fender vents - maybe @WarDamnEagle can find the different vents with his look-up magic?

FJ55 Body Panels, Headliner, Molding and Weatherstrip - Specter Off-Road

Toyota Land Cruiser parts since 1983. From the oldest FJ25 and FJ40 to FJ45 BJ40 FJ55 FJ60 BJ60 FJ62 FJ70 BJ70 FJ80 and 100 Series, SOR has the largest selection of top quality new and used OEM and aftermarket Land Cruiser parts in stock in the world. Specializing in restoration parts for both...

www.sor.com

 

[PabloCruise]

It's possible that they are supposed to be different. There is a cooling fan vent behind the driver's side one on a 1978 so maybe that's why it's open.

75353	ORNAMENT, FRONT FENDER
75365-90352	RH.
75366-90351	LH. (09/1977 - 06/1980)
75366-90352	LH. (09/1972 - 08/1977)

LOL, I was just paging you!
You were already on it...
This would make it look like the RH (Pass-side for USDM) used a single P/N for all years?
I am not sure about that, as I was able to find some open vents for both sides, so IDK.

 

[gonzopancho]

Dry ice blast, and then neutralize... That sounds fascinating. I know you can explain the chemistry to me, so I am to ask - what do you need to neutralize after dry ice blasting?

Ya know @Lifelong40Fan is a real-life chem prof, so idk why you’re asking me to embarrass myself like this.

I was a chem major in college until I panicked about getting into med school and bailed for mechanical engineering.

Most rust converters have two primary ingredients:

Tannic acid chemically converts the reddish iron oxides into bluish-black ferric tannate, a more stable material.

The second active ingredient is an organic solvent such as butyl cellosolve that acts as a wetting agent and provides a protective primer layer.

Sometimes they lower the pH with phosphoric acid to accelerate the reaction. This also converts some of the iron oxide into an inert layer of ferric phosphate.

Interactions between Phosphoric/Tannic Acid and Different Forms of FeOOH

Alpha, beta, gamma, and delta hydroxyl ferric oxides (FeOOH), as the most common rust layers on iron surface, play different roles in iron preservation. Using modern surface analysis technologies such as X-ray diffraction (XRD), infrared spectra (IR), X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS), and...

www.hindawi.com

(Incidentally: did you know the meaning behind the name of the header company: TriMeki?

Meki is Hawaiian for “iron”, so Fe3. Rust.

In for more info on the Vegas Gold color as a valid Pewter substitution!

Fender vents - I know some are open. My '74 came with closed vents. I found some open ones and went with those. IDK if they allow more air in for the passenger compartment vents, but I liked them.

I’m going to leave it alone after what @WarDamnEagle posted.

That DS pass-through - maybe someone was running a snorkel on this Pig at one time? Which might explain the different vent.

Thought about that. Unlikely.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

LOL, I was just paging you!
You were already on it...
This would make it look like the RH (Pass-side for USDM) used a single P/N for all years?
I am not sure about that, as I was able to find some open vents for both sides, so IDK.

Would have to try but I think you can interchange the sides by turning it 180 degrees (after it's flipped to the other side).

 

[PabloCruise]

It's possible that they are supposed to be different. There is a cooling fan vent behind the driver's side one on a 1978 so maybe that's why it's open.

75353	ORNAMENT, FRONT FENDER
75365-90352	RH.
75366-90351	LH. (09/1977 - 06/1980)
75366-90352	LH. (09/1972 - 08/1977)

The carb-cooling fan, yes!
That would explain the pass through hole.
I am guessing this Pig no longer has the fan based on the picture that @gonzopancho posted.

 

[PabloCruise]

Ya know @Lifelong40Fan is a real-life chem prof, so idk why you’re asking me to embarrass myself like this.

I was a chem major in college until I panicked about getting into med school and bailed for mechanical engineering.

Most rust converters have two primary ingredients:

Tannic acid chemically converts the reddish iron oxides into bluish-black ferric tannate, a more stable material.

The second active ingredient is an organic solvent such as butyl cellosolve that acts as a wetting agent and provides a protective primer layer.

Sometimes they lower the pH with phosphoric acid to accelerate the reaction. This also converts some of the iron oxide into an inert layer of ferric phosphate.

Interactions between Phosphoric/Tannic Acid and Different Forms of FeOOH

Alpha, beta, gamma, and delta hydroxyl ferric oxides (FeOOH), as the most common rust layers on iron surface, play different roles in iron preservation. Using modern surface analysis technologies such as X-ray diffraction (XRD), infrared spectra (IR), X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS), and...

www.hindawi.com

(Incidentally: did you know the meaning behind the name of the header company: TriMeki?

Meki is Hawaiian for “iron”, so Fe3. Rust.

I didn't think you were talking about dry ice blasting as a rust converter, more as a means to remove all the old undercoat off the bottom quickly?
Or am I missing something?

 

[RUSH55]

Wish I could explain it half as well as it was explained to me, but I thought that the main reason for using dry ice was the very minimal amount of cleanup necessary afterwards.

 

[gonzopancho]

Wish I could explain it half as well as it was explained to me, but I thought that the main reason for using dry ice was the very minimal amount of cleanup necessary afterwards.

It’s abrasive but not as abrasive as sand/silica.
It’s cold, which helps.
It doesn’t leave water behind.
Bust mostly: you don’t have 50lbs of sand to clean up. The dry ice sublimates into gas. You do have to clean up what was removed.

 

[gonzopancho]

I didn't think you were talking about dry ice blasting as a rust converter, more as a means to remove all the old undercoat off the bottom quickly?
Or am I missing something?

Yeah, you blast and then convert, and then recover. The blast removes nearly 50 years of … everything without removing the paint, typically.

If that recover is paint or powder the phosphoric acid helps, because paint will adhere to ferric phosphate a LOT better than it will to ferric tannate.

If it’s POR-15, that sh…uff sticks to everything.

 

[gonzopancho]

It's possible that they are supposed to be different. There is a cooling fan vent behind the driver's side one on a 1978 so maybe that's why it's open.

75353	ORNAMENT, FRONT FENDER
75365-90352	RH.
75366-90351	LH. (09/1977 - 06/1980)
75366-90352	LH. (09/1972 - 08/1977)

USED Carburetor Cooling Fan - FJ55 1977-1980

USED FJ55 Carburetor Cooling Fan '77-'80

cruisercorps.com

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Another mystery solved in 13 posts.....not bad.

 

[bobm]

Rust Never Sleeps

There's more to the picture
Than meets the eye.

Yeah, there is a bit of other cosmetic and minor mechanical stuff on the list.

Was going to dry ice blast the underside of the truck, then neutralize and paint/undercoat the body. Might see about getting into that drip rail, then fluid film or similar. This all in the name of making it last until I have some of the others done.

You’ve probably seen the sheet metal screws they used to attach the sill plates poking through the floors. Shorter screws and vacuum caps are on the list.

Straighten and powder coat the bumpers, grille and front vents back to pewter or “Vegas gold”, (the color OP Machine uses to match the OEM bumper color). I’ll probably keep the push guard and powder it, too.

Question for the sty: the fender vents are different. The DS is open, the PS is closed. Should these be the same and if so, what’s “correct” for an April 1978 build? There is also a pass through in the DS inner fender that I don’t think belongs there. Opinions?

Anyway: do the obligatory baseline: change fluids, do the front end, brakes.

Rework the exhaust to not pass under the shock.

Obtain visors, mirror and associated hardware. Recondition and install.

Change the wheels & tires as mentioned. The beadlock rims can move to Pua’a.

Drive it.

View attachment 3533050

View attachment 3533051

View attachment 3533052

That's for the carb cooling fan! Mine is exactly the same! Theory is to pull outside Cool are to blow on carb and manifold to prevent Vapor lock