1976 - 1980 FJ40 Brake Booster Replacement List

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I would expect you could safely place an order for 100 and expect to sell them all. 1000? Maybe. I have two bad ones and one good one myself. If a rebuild was more than about $100 or $150 I wouldn't bother, but having a rebuild kit available would make the cores I have worth some $$.
 
Racer, I have one of them apart, and they are quite complicated. The two rubber parts are different. They are molded to shape, the front one (the one you see first when taking the booster apart) looks to be molded onto the metal plate (disc). The back one, I haven't figured out how to get it apart yet, I think the contraption unscrews somehow. But it has a lip that fits over the outside of the 'carrier' and then a metal ring slips tight over that lip to seal it. This is nothing like I thought it would be, but then, I've never had a booster apart...lol.
 
Racer, I have one of them apart, and they are quite complicated. The two rubber parts are different. They are molded to shape, the front one (the one you see first when taking the booster apart) looks to be molded onto the metal plate (disc). The back one, I haven't figured out how to get it apart yet, I think the contraption unscrews somehow. But it has a lip that fits over the outside of the 'carrier' and then a metal ring slips tight over that lip to seal it. This is nothing like I thought it would be, but then, I've never had a booster apart...lol.
How about a few pics?
 
Was in the process...here they are:The first picture shows the ring that presses over the lip on the rear most diaphragm. The black 'carrier' or 'drum' is plastic. The second picture shows the 'hub' that I think might unscrew, but not sure. The 3rd pic shows the front diaphragm that is either molded to the steel dish or is crimped together somehow. The 4th pic, I was trying to show the lip that fits over the plastic tub of the rear most rubber. The 5th, pieces as they fit together.
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To answer an earlier question, the check valve ensures there is constant vacuum in the event that the throttle is applied or the engine is shut off. The booster will work without one, just the assist can be variable from full to none.
 
I spoke to Booster Dewey today. They said supplying the diaphragms to them will not be sufficient. They need the whole kit from Toyota with various parts in order to build it.

Looks like these boosters are the last of the Mohicans.
 
You guys got me scared, so I found one of those drop in Centric boosters online for $300 and bought it.
 
Is the $177.00 suppose to be a core charge? If so what are they going to do with a bad booster that parts to rebuild are no longer available?:hmm:
 
Is the $177.00 suppose to be a core charge? If so what are they going to do with a bad booster that parts to rebuild are no longer available?:hmm:

I heard in many cases they just clean up an old one and resell it hoping it works during the warranty period. My first Centric lasted about 4 months. The replacement is still working but hisses a bit.
 
You guys got me scared, so I found one of those drop in Centric boosters online for $300 and bought it.


I wouldn't be scared since a booster from a 1994 80 series is a direct bolt in... Unless you want weaker brakes without extra assist. The parts stores still have them also.

With an 80 booster, an 80 master, and 4 wheel disc brakes... Your grandma could lock up all four wheels on dry pavement if she wanted too. But they're hard to lock unless you're trying too.
 
I wouldn't be scared since a booster from a 1994 80 series is a direct bolt in... Unless you want weaker brakes without extra assist. The parts stores still have them also.

With an 80 booster, an 80 master, and 4 wheel disc brakes... Your grandma could lock up all four wheels on dry pavement if she wanted too. But they're hard to lock unless you're trying too.

I'd say it can be made to work, but it's not a direct bolt-in. The diameter is bigger so it covers up the clutch bolt. It requires a different MC. It's also thinner, so you need to bend your brake lines. Actually, you need to modify your brake lines due to the different MC.

For me these reasons would be a no go. I'm not messing with my stock brake lines unless I absolutely have to.
 
I first installed it with my 74 FJ40 drum master, lines were in almost the exact same place. If you've got a pristene classic, I can see why you'd not want to, but for the other 99% of us, I'd say go for it.

True it covers the clutch Master cylinder bolt, but if anything it was thicker than the 74/77 booster in there. Most of us are due to replace our 40 year old brake lines anyways.
 
I think there is plenty supply of OEM boosters with dead diaphragms. I would even suggest that if we could get enough orders (or enough donations to the cause from those who needed a diaphragm) to get a place to manufacture a run of diaphragms, Dewey might consider doing a few for free (for those who paid for the manufacturing) just to get the supply going again. We would of course have to team up and pay for the diaphragms to be made, and essentially give them to Dewey, but it might come out cost neutral. Or something like that....

Lots of unknowns here, but if the few remans that we are able to find continue to fail like Racer65 experienced (and now I'm afraid I might experience), then we don't have much choice if trying to find an "exact" replacement.

While other boosters can be used, it has proved to require changes to push rod lengths, spacers, changing brake line configurations, etc. All of these are slight changes, but it would make the job of a good restoration more pure if we could get a stinkin' brake booster that was designed to fit the vehicle.

Heck, if there are only 7 of us in the known world right now wanting this, forget it - it won't happen. But, if there are a few dozen, with a few hundred more in the next couple of years, then maybe.

Anyone able to reach out to a manufacturer and to Dewey to see what might be feasible?
 

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