1976 - 1980 FJ40 Brake Booster Replacement List

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

If (from what I've read here... and not every post I might add) the boosters are becoming unobtanium, the likelihood of one actually found is most likely bad, and rebuilds are one in a million, what is the current solution for replacing parts for a good front disc/4 wheel disc setup? How much does that all cost? I'd like to find that out so my "outside the box" thinking and approach can compare cost wise. I have a couple of ideas that would work but are a bit pricey. I'll share those ideas once I can compare.
 
Hey Rainman, so I explored the parts route for the original booster. There were several showstoppers for me. For one thing, there is no more Toyota kit out there that I can look at to determine what exactly needs replacing. I can potentially take apart an old booster, but to replicate the individual components would be neither practical nor economically feasible for me.

One project I have on the back burner is to fully pilot the dual diaphragm booster in the pics below. The dimensions are perfect and the spec is right on. The way my supplier partner explained to me is that there are two types of 44610-60050 booster. The U.S. market got the Tandem version, and there is this Aisin version, also designed for FJ40s.

I ran it in my car for a couple of weeks. It worked fine, but it is a bit thinner than the Tandem Booster. Therefore, my proportioning valve bracket was left dangling; I couldn't pull it sufficiently forward due to the hard brake lines. It could just require pulling harder on the lines, since I've seen other folks install thin boosters and still hook up the bracket successfully. Worst case, the issue can be resolved by creating a different bracket.

The thinner dimension of this booster does offer some nice advantages. It is easier to install and leaves extra room in that crowded part of the engine compartment, providing better access to the carb, manifold, and EGR stuff, etc.

This project got side tracked when PartsGeek sent me a replacement for the broken Centric booster they sold me. I put the Centric booster back on to make sure it works, and then other things took priority.

I intend to pick up this project again later. One of the things I hope to do is to pilot this booster in someone else's truck so I can get user feedback, which is something I did with the single diaphragm booster (4610-60030) that I will be making available later this week.

Dual Diaphragm.webp
 
Thanks City Racer, but what is the cost if someone wants a new, used, or replacement? Can you give any ball park prices for that? I want to see if my other ideas I'm looking at are cost prohibitive or just a little more expensive. If you can or care to, you could post the options that you know of that some are using. All this could good knowledge for me when someone may ask me the same questions with my brake lines.

Thanks in advance.
 
Thanks City Racer, but what is the cost if someone wants a new, used, or replacement? Can you give any ball park prices for that? I want to see if my other ideas I'm looking at are cost prohibitive or just a little more expensive. If you can or care to, you could post the options that you know of that some are using. All this could good knowledge for me when someone may ask me the same questions with my brake lines.

Thanks in advance.

Price for a "rebuilt" booster varies from $232 at PartsGeek to $500 at some specialty Land Cruiser places. There's a usually a hefty core charge involved, so you better have an old one to trade in.
Used boosters I've seen vary from around $125 for a rusted out unit that is only good for core, to over $300.
There is no "new" booster available currently.
 
I sent mine to "Booster Dewey" & got it back fast. I dont remember the price for it was 2 yrs back but it was something cheap,relatively speaking. Came back like new. Has option to zinc plate for a bit extra $.

1422451582159.webp
 
I sent mine to "Booster Dewey" & got it back fast. I dont remember the price for it was 2 yrs back but it was something cheap,relatively speaking. Came back like new. Has option to zinc plate for a bit extra $.
Booster Dewey does good work from what I hear, but he does not do the '76 - '78 booster anymore, because the parts are NLA. So, use him for any other booster but that era.

http://boosterdeweyexchange.com/
 
A little bit of a thread revival here, Racer65 did you ever find any resolution to the "rebuild" kit of sorts? Anyone know the difference between the three listed here: http://www.theautopartsshop.com/search/default.aspx?make=toyota&model=land cruiser&year=1980&parts=Power Brake Booster ? I fear I am in need of a booster myself and want to order a direct bolt in booster (Not have to modify anything). I have thought about maybe ordering a used one from cruiserparts.net, but who knows how long that will last..I wonder if there isn't a way to just repair the existing diaphragm\s inside these things? Once disassembled how well do these things go back together?
 
I wonder if there isn't a way to just repair the existing diaphragm\s inside these things?

The diaphram goes bad because the rubber it's made of gets old. You could temporarily fix a crack in it, but there's no way to make the rubber not old, so it's just going to get another crack.
 
A little bit of a thread revival here, Racer65 did you ever find any resolution to the "rebuild" kit of sorts? Anyone know the difference between the three listed here: http://www.theautopartsshop.com/search/default.aspx?make=toyota&model=land cruiser&year=1980&parts=Power Brake Booster ? I fear I am in need of a booster myself and want to order a direct bolt in booster (Not have to modify anything). I have thought about maybe ordering a used one from cruiserparts.net, but who knows how long that will last..I wonder if there isn't a way to just repair the existing diaphragm\s inside these things? Once disassembled how well do these things go back together?

The Centric 160.88103 booster in your link is the only direct bolt in replacement. There is no rebuild kit available, so it calls into question how Centric does it. Maybe they have some secret sauce, but it's more likely their "rebuild" isn't very thorough. There's more to the diaphragm that needs to be replaced, but the aged diaphragm is definitely a key component needing replacement. I'm of the opinion at this point these boosters are really at the end of life, and need to be replaced with a completely new part.
 
That's what I was afraid of. I am curious as to the internals of the Centric unit. If it's a different design on the inside, thus being able to rebuild, or if it's the same units "cleaned" up and called a rebuild. I have a bendix 225-00202 currently installed (barely legible, so I'm guessing), which appears to be aftermarket already because it's not a toyota p/n that I know of. However, it's also NLA like everything else , it seams, I'm looking for.
 
The diaphram goes bad because the rubber it's made of gets old. You could temporarily fix a crack in it, but there's no way to make the rubber not old, so it's just going to get another crack.

Whoa, whoa, whoa....hold up. You telling me rubber doesn't last forever!? Im not convinced, but my dogs chew toy supports your theory :)
 
I'm of the opinion at this point these boosters are really at the end of life, and need to be replaced with a completely new part.

At some point I will put your theory to the test. I have master and booster out of a 79 FJ40 that I've stored out of the weather since 83. I do have some OEM weatherstripping I've been storing since 96 and it's still like new. Just stripped some parts of a 84 LC. Top and all windshield weatherstripping were in great shape. Since the rubber everyway was in great shape I purchased the master and booster off that LC to mate to the axles. Might be a couple years before I get around to the project for the price I figured I would gamble it will be good if I keep it out of the weather. I agree that rubber isn't going to last for ever but climate has a lot to do with it.
 
At some point I will put your theory to the test. I have master and booster out of a 79 FJ40 that I've stored out of the weather since 83. I do have some OEM weatherstripping I've been storing since 96 and it's still like new. Just stripped some parts of a 84 LC. Top and all windshield weatherstripping were in great shape. Since the rubber everyway was in great shape I purchased the master and booster off that LC to mate to the axles. Might be a couple years before I get around to the project for the price I figured I would gamble it will be good if I keep it out of the weather. I agree that rubber isn't going to last for ever but climate has a lot to do with it.
There are really two factors at play. One is purely time based degradation, the other is consumption from usage. If the booster has been in service for the past 30-40 years, chances are the master cylinder has been replaced 3 or more times. The major culprit for MC replacement is the rubber seals inside having gone bad (another example of consumption), potentially resulting in brake fluid leaking into the booster. Once fluid gets in, the life of the rubber diaphragm of the booster is dramatically reduced. Some booster shells will also rust from inside out.

It's a different story if you have a booster stored away. The time based degradation is less severe, but as we heard from the cowl vent gasket discussion, it's still at play.
 
I agree if the master has leaked into the booster and nothing was done to the booster your going to have issue or a humid climate it could rust. But climate has just as much to do with it as time based degradation, and consumption from usage. If I had two booster that long and one was keep inside and the other left outdoors which would you want? Plus it's not apples to apples to compare the cowl vent gasket to a brake booster. The cowl vent gasket is exposed to UV and all kinds of dirt and debris. The 84 that I have been stripping the cowl to windshield weatherstripping and windshield to top weatherstripping were in such good shape I took the time to remove side to top weatherstripping off this troopy to use on a 40. In Phoenix, AZ area any vehicle left outside you might get away with reusing the top and bottom weatherstripping off the windshield but chances you could remove a FJ40 top weatherstrippng and reuse without it cracking are slim. On the troopy as I removed the weatherstripping I just let it drape down the side while removing and rolled it up then put it in a box. Do that with a vehicle that's been outside in the desert for thirty years you be picking up pieces if you let it hand over the side. The desert is a great place for finding good metal parts but not plastic and rubber parts.
 
Up to Jan '75 was the old style, which will probably work with some bending of the hard lines. Jan '75 onwards is the elusive dual-diaphram style.

Actually '75 also has the old style single diaphragm booster. Dual diaphragm fat booster started in '76.
Single diaphragm booster is not a problem. Parts are available to rebuild it, or you can just buy a brand new one.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom