1976 - 1980 FJ40 Brake Booster Replacement List

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Just a note: Your Post no. 16 states you bought the booster at Autozone, but the receipt lists Advance Auto Parts--just in case anybody's going shopping.
 
So was this a direct bolt in... Did you need a spacer ? Shorten rod? Use your rod?

JC
Not mounted yet so unsure. The depth of the new one vs OEM is quite different. I know at least some rod adjustments will be needed. Perhaps someone with a newer one will comment.
 
Anyone have experience /opinion on the booster/MC combo from BTB marketed as plug-and -play ( with brake line mods) for all year FJ40s and specifically for 4-wheel discs? http://www.btbprod.com/BRAKE-BOOSTER-MASTER-TOY-FJ40-45-55-DISC-BRAKE-CONVERSIONS.html

I don't have any experience with the BTB master, but it appears identical to boosters that a lot of the hot rod shops are selling to that crowd, and is most likely based on a GM booster. Check out some of the online hot rod shops like Speedway, etc and you'll see a lot of very similar units for a lot less money.

An example: http://www.tkmcustomrods.com/brakes/gm-9-booster-without-stamp-master-cylinder-prop-valve.html
 

Not a fan of the chevy style master on a Toyota. The Napa master cyl rebuilds of the '80 series OEM masters are about $100 including core. You can turn in an fj40 master as the core too. Add a junkyard booster for $35, you're under half that price.

I prefer the single plastic reservoir with a round rubber cap vs the stamped metal with a gasket.
 
Not a fan of the chevy style master on a Toyota. The Napa master cyl rebuilds of the '80 series OEM masters are about $100 including core. You can turn in an fj40 master as the core too. Add a junkyard booster for $35, you're under half that price. I prefer the single plastic reservoir with a round rubber cap vs the stamped metal with a gasket.

Yea, would like the booster separately. Pete's is $20 cheaper.
 
Scott - did you ever mount/install the one you bought from advance? i think i am in the market for a new booster. hoping yours was plug and play...
 
Scott - did you ever mount/install the one you bought from advance? i think i am in the market for a new booster. hoping yours was plug and play...

Kurt, no still in complete teardown status. It'll be .... forever.

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That looks about right for a booster replacement. :sigh:

On topic: You'll need a short spacer between a mini-truck or 4runner booster and the firewall if you don't want to adjust the rod too much. I've used one extra nut on each stud on both of mine. The original spacer from the 4runners is too thick.

And you need an inline check valve.
 
the btb units are ok. im not overly impressed. the resevoir is a pain to open to check fluid level and is prone to leaking. also the pushrod on the master is a bit short so there is not enough thread engagement for safe operation. I took a spare clevis and welded the two together to get enough thread engagement. also not stated in the instructions is that you will need to run an sae tap through the toyota clevis for it to thread onto the pushrod. i dont remember the thread pitch but it is very close to the toyota m10x 1.25 (can be threaded by hand)
 
So what is the shelf life of these booster? The top one I've had for over thirty years. Pulled it out of a 79 with less than 40K miles on it. The other not sure how long I've had them probably over twenty years though.
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Shelf life is hard to say... My spare I'd been storing for 20 years didn't seem to be any better than the one it replaced... But I can't be 100% certain it was fully operational when I stored it. Also, my brakes didn't feel right till I also replaced the M/C. So my booster may have been ok (since it didn't hiss or leak)... But I'm not pulling my 80 booster to check the pair or 40 ones I've got.

Anyone got a surefire way to bench test a booster? I don't want to throw these boosters out, but I don't want to sell someone a dud. What else can fail other than the diaphragm and front seal?
 
take mine for instance: now that i have eliminated all known vac leaks, during idle when i press the brake pedal, the engine runs a lot rougher, goes back to normal when i let off the pedal. leads me to believe it leaks.

could you just hook a mighty vac up to it and pull on the pedal side rod to bench test it?
 

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