1974 Toyota FJ40 (getting around to it) (3 Viewers)

[BOBWhite74]

I don't know why it's taken me so long to post this here. Our Toyota Landcruiser has been in our family for over 30 years and has been passed down to me. It was my first car and I drove it all through high school. It has been parked for awhile due to a exhaust manifold crack and brakes. I'll start with the exhaust manifold; I tried fixing it by brazing up the cracks and brazing a stud in where an ear had previously broken off but everything is just too warped for it to ever seal up again. Looking at exhaust headers again for a substitute and it looks like the price has gone significantly since I last checked a few years ago. Should I go this route? If so what brands/sources are the best?
As for the brakes It needs everything rubber replaced. The prices of the wheel and master cylinders in my opinion is still ridiculous and genuine rebuild kits don't seem to exist anymore. Has anyone had any luck with putting a same size rebuild kit in for example a 7/8 rebuild kit in the 7/8 bore wheel cylinders? Don't know if that makes any sense but I've never rebuilt wheel or master cylinders before so still have some to learn.

Thats all I've got for now but I'm sure I'm forgetting a lot. Thanks for any advice!

 

[BOBWhite74]

I found some pictures of my damaged manifold along with the "repairs" I did. Also does anyone who's switched to headers notice any difference in MPG or performance with the carb being unheated? Thanks

 

[charliemeyer007]

I live at about 4000. That first winter after I installed the header I experienced carburetor ice on a long uphill grade in the fog - it would barely make the summit. Wait about 15 minutes and it would thaw and run fine. I made a copy of the "fluid heat riser" and that solved the issue - I can also shut it off for summer heat.

I have a curtain that I block the lower half of the radiator in the winter - I'd like to do a cable controlled shutter.

I got my 72 in 82.

 

[bikersmurf]

Yes... I've heard to people using Toyota pickup seals to rebuild Landcruiser masters.

My general recommendation would be to convert the front to Toyota disc brakes, and the rear to Chevy discs using @Poser brackets. Then use a 80 series non-abs master to power them. You'll likely need an adjustable proportioning valve to prevent rear wheel lockup. @Racer65 sells a metric adjustable proportioning valve… or you can make custom hard liners like I did back in ‘95.

As for headers, Marks/Downey headers seem decent based on what I’ve read. My 40 came with a different brand… hated the set that came on my 40. They were noisy and always leaked. The 1.5F ran way better and got better economy after going back to a stock manifold. Unless you are going to tune an F motor to be optimized for headers I’d get another stock manifold and call it a day.

F motors are tractor motors that have lots of torque at low rpm’s and that’s where they shine most.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

I have a 74 too that had drums all around, I have had good luck with the Napa rear wheel cylinders so far and they were priced reasonable IMO. For the fronts, I found a whole axle for a 78 on car-part.com for $200. I scavenged the hub ends for the conversion, replaced the birfs with the newer ones, new aisin hubs, and new toyota discs and toyota reman calipers. I probably couldve rebuilt the calipers and reused the birfs but with brakes I went the extra mile. I agree with bikersmurf, that if you have to do the rears completely then it makes sense to go all the way to discs. Then you no longer need to crawl under every so often to adjust the brakes.

 

[BOBWhite74]

I think I'll keep it drums for now. Although what do you recommend for master and booster replacements? I don't think the master cylinder would be all that hard to rebuild but the booster parts seem impossible to find. Anyone know of a Ford or GM part that can be modified to fit?

As for the manifold what's the best way to find a good used one that won't break the bank? I wouldn't mind headers even if there a bit loud, it can't possibly be louder than what was on there. I even looked at some 292 and 230 Chevy straight 6 Exhaust manifolds but I couldn't find anything close enough to bother trying to adapt. Thanks for the reply's! I should have started this years ago.

 

[pb4ugo]

I think City Racer sellers a booster.

 

[h82crash]

I think I'll keep it drums for now. Although what do you recommend for master and booster replacements? I don't think the master cylinder would be all that hard to rebuild but the booster parts seem impossible to find. Anyone know of a Ford or GM part that can be modified to fit?

I just did a restomod of my 74. My masters looked pretty new and I wanted to just rebuild them. Well, after I wasted my time disassembling the brake and clutch masters, they both were pitted at the bottom. Repairable? Sure, but not for less than the cost of new cylinders. Put an 80 non-ABS and a Japanese made aftermarket clutch cylinder and have no regerts, er regrets.

People have used Toyota mini truck boosters. I was lucky, as my booster looked new on the inside.

 

[BOBWhite74]

Thats true but I still think its worth it to try and rebuild them even if I have to do some honing on them. Did you do a disk brake conversion on yours?
Also do you mean the Toyota Kei trucks or the Toyota pickup trucks that were sold here in the U.S? Thanks!

People have used Toyota mini truck boosters. I was lucky, as my booster looked new on the inside.

 

[BOBWhite74]

After doing some more research on this sight I found that 3FE exhaust manifolds also can work. 3FE manifolds look like they go for about $200 and headers look like a cheep set can go for about $300. Since my motor is the original F1.5 I might not have to do any modifications to the intake manifold but that doesn't really matter to me. Any advice on this!? Thanks!

Wonder what I should go for in terms of exhaust since I would have the split pipes. I have a couple of old chevy mufflers around that are 2 into one but they might be too big to fit. I'm a novice welder so It might be fun to make whatever.

 

[BOBWhite74]

The day has finally arrived! Thanks to @cjmoon for the exhaust system and headers, now I can get going on this project again!

The next big hurdle to leap over is brakes. I think I want to go with an fj80 master cylinder but I read somewhere that it has an integrated proportioning valve of sorts. Since I will be keeping the 4 wheel drum brakes is it possible to eliminate this valve? Thanks

 

[JKIII FJ40]

any pics? I have a set of 3FE manifolds on the bench and in most cases they are plumbed together and then back to a muffler. Did you use the 2 inlet muffler? Assuming your running a carb as well but also asking as I planned on adding an O2 sensor bung when I put mine together.

 

[BOBWhite74]

Here are some pics. Since I have a F1.5 engine do I need to cut off the end bolt flanges? Are any coating or wrapping recommendations?

 

[Pighead]

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Since I have a F1.5 engine do I need to cut off the end bolt flanges? Are any coating or wrapping recommendations?

No. you should have studs for those. don't wrap. a ceramic coating might be nice...

 

[BOBWhite74]

After looking back your right I do have a provision for a stud although not sure if its threaded. My old exhaust manifold didn't have the provision for the stud.

 

[igotta40]

I have a 74 with drum brakes. Rock Auto has the booster for $119. I’m pretty sure I bought a booster years ago before the internet from the local auto parts store for a 79 Toyota pickup. It bolted right in.

 

[BOBWhite74]

I see Rock Auto has the booster but no dual master cylinder. What did do for the master and wheel cylinders on your rig?

Off topic question but would you happen to know what dealer your cruiser originally came from? Mine still has the Texas dealer sticker on it

 

[igotta40]

I see Rock Auto has the booster but no dual master cylinder. What did do for the master and wheel cylinders on your rig?

Off topic question but would you happen to know what dealer your cruiser originally came from? Mine still has the Texas dealer sticker on it
View attachment 3556198

I think the last MC I bought was in 2009 or so, but can’t remember where. Maybe O’Reilly auto parts, maybe Specter Off Road. I’ve sourced wheel cylinders from Rock Auto, Toyota, Specter, and Cool Cruisers of Texas (bunch of nitwits, in my opinion) and rebuild kits as well, over the past 43 years.

I got the truck preowned from a used car lot on the north side of Houston.

 

[Pighead]

'74 is one of my favorite years for LandCruisers. Last of the F engines, first year of the 4 speed, still has a manual secondary carb, transition year transfer case, I could go on and on. I rebuilt my master cylinders. I did buy wheel cylinders once, Napa did have the best selection of wheel cylinder rebuild kits but that was 20 years ago. Kurt usually has MC rebuild kits, don't know about wheel cylinders though. The 80 series MC does not have a proportioning valve, it may have residual valves. They're different. you'll want to use the residual valves for drum brakes like the ones that are in your MC now. I used my original MC through the front disc and then 4 wheel discs conversions. Only went to the 80 MC on a City Racer booster fairly recently.
I kept my drum brakes for 18 years and was very proud of them. they stopped straight and true except after river crossings and could lock up all 4 when I wanted to. Use Anti-Seize on the adjusters, get 3 of the special spoon shaped adjuster tools (one for the toolbox, one for the center console and you're going to lose one) . You'll need a hone, some gloss black spray paint and big bottles of brake fluid. And good rebuild kits. Probably want to get new soft lines too.

 

[Pighead]

View attachment 3555302View attachment 3555303
Here are some pics. Since I have a F1.5 engine do I need to cut off the end bolt flanges? Are any coating or wrapping recommendations?

Here's that header on a F.5 head. Last time this head was in the shop I had them drill and tap for the larger 2F head studs, because bigger.