1974 Toyota FJ40 (getting around to it) (1 Viewer)

[archie73]

I have a 74 with drum brakes. Rock Auto has the booster for $119. I’m pretty sure I bought a booster years ago before the internet from the local auto parts store for a 79 Toyota pickup. It bolted right in.

To further this point, when my oem booster died, I went to the pic-n-pull with a tape measure. Turns out up to at least ~’92 the mini truck booster has the same bolt pattern for the booster. I pulled the master with it, thinking I’d get a new one if it was roached. Slipped the thing into the cruiser and haven’t touched it since. *I think I recall adjusting the pedal push rod*. I’m on four wheel disc, so no comment on the drums.

 

[BOBWhite74]

Is that a 2F intake manifold on there? and what air cleaner are you running? I'm going to have to remove my air cleaner bracket to get my header into place. A lot tighter fit that I thought!

Also could you explain the residual valve? I know it keeps a little pressure in the lines but why does it need to be there?
Sorry for the bombardment of questions. Thanks!

 

[Pighead]

Is that a 2F intake manifold on there? and what air cleaner are you running? I'm going to have to remove my air cleaner bracket to get my header into place. A lot tighter fit that I thought!

Also could you explain the residual valve? I know it keeps a little pressure in the lines but why does it need to be there?
Sorry for the bombardment of questions. Thanks!

No, that's the '69ish wide-runner intake manifold. I run it because it's rare and cool. I use a K&N off the shelf filter, had to lose the stocker to fit a power steering pump.
residual valves are little plastic gizmos that live in the MC right where the brake lines thread in, they keep a certain residual pressure in the brake lines. Less for discs, more for drums. decreases the pedal travel distance as I understand it. Keeps the shoes or pads closer to whatever they rub on.
Bombardments of questions is why 'Mud is here.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

'74 is one of my favorite years for LandCruisers. Last of the F engines, first year of the 4 speed, still has a manual secondary carb, transition year transfer case, I could go on and on. I rebuilt my master cylinders. I did buy wheel cylinders once, Napa did have the best selection of wheel cylinder rebuild kits but that was 20 years ago. Kurt usually has MC rebuild kits, don't know about wheel cylinders though. The 80 series MC does not have a proportioning valve, it may have residual valves. They're different. you'll want to use the residual valves for drum brakes like the ones that are in your MC now. I used my original MC through the front disc and then 4 wheel discs conversions. Only went to the 80 MC on a City Racer booster fairly recently.
I kept my drum brakes for 18 years and was very proud of them. they stopped straight and true except after river crossings and could lock up all 4 when I wanted to. Use Anti-Seize on the adjusters, get 3 of the special spoon shaped adjuster tools (one for the toolbox, one for the center console and you're going to lose one) . You'll need a hone, some gloss black spray paint and big bottles of brake fluid. And good rebuild kits. Probably want to get new soft lines too.

Yup, we stock all of the brake & clutch master cylinder rebuild kits, slave rebuild kits and a the full range of wheel cylinder rebuild kits, US spec and many non-US applications!

For example:

Wheel Cylinder Rebuild Kit - Fits 9/1973 - 7/1980 4x Applications - Rear Cylinders (BWCRK60022)

Toyota Land Cruiser Wheel Cylinder

cruiserteq.com

 

[BOBWhite74]

I'm mocking everything up and I think I'm going to want to relocate this brake hose and mount. Any suggestions?

Also does anyone know the size and thread pitch of the exhaust studs? I need to pick up a couple more and forgot to bring one for reference. Thanks for the answers!

 

[BOBWhite74]

I bolted everything up and fired it up for the first time last night. Sounded great!

Also I'm looking back at my reference photos and see that there wasn't a nut on the end of the throttle shaft. I guess it ran long enough without it but Id still like to find the size and get a nut for it.

 

[BOBWhite74]

Now comes the brakes but I'd also like to treat some of the rust before it gets worse. The frame is nice but at some point the body's going to need to come off and get some work done. What are some of the best products to put a stop to rust until I find the time to properly prime and repaint it? Woolwax? Thanks!

 

[BOBWhite74]

Went to a pick your part and got a brake booster and master cylinder off a 4 runner. Test fitting seems everything will fit with a few modifications, mainly cutting down the brake rod a bit. I've read about other people needing a spacer behind the booster but everything seems to clear ok

I've read through a lot of forms about using a disk/drum master cylinder on a drum/drum set up and can't come up with anything conclusive. The residual valve used on the older stuff is really only useful if the master cylinder is under the floorboards. I'm going to try it out with the drums and see how it operates.

 

[BOBWhite74]

Bad news, water in oil.
After flushing the radiator a couple of times and changing the thermostat I check my oil only to find this.

Pretty bummed out to see this but I hope it's only a head gasket. I'll pull the head this weekend and see what I can find.

 

[BOBWhite74]

@cruiseroutfit would your site happen to have head gaskets for 74s? I looked briefly but didn't see one. F1.5 have their own specific head gasket as I understand it.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

@cruiseroutfit would your site happen to have head gaskets for 74s? I looked briefly but didn't see one. F1.5 have their own specific head gasket as I understand it.

Not on the site (yet) but I do have a limited reserve of Japanese F.5 head gasket sets. For anyone needing one, simply call and order. Gasket specs here:

F, 2F (and 3F for giggles) Head Gasket Tech & Reference

There are quite a few threads on the many head gaskets found on the gasoline F engine family. However I'm working on a large gasket kit project and needed to get to the bottom of a few of them in my own head. I figured having a single reference thread would be helpful. If this already exists...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[RevISK]

Now comes the brakes but I'd also like to treat some of the rust before it gets worse. The frame is nice but at some point the body's going to need to come off and get some work done. What are some of the best products to put a stop to rust until I find the time to properly prime and repaint it? Woolwax? Thanks!

I like Corrosion X for rust abatement.
The stuff in the aqua colored can is the marine stuff. Thick, and hangs on forever. The regular, red can is thinner and creeps into tiny crevices and will literally climb rust.

 

[Sparkman86]

No, that's the '69ish wide-runner intake manifold. I run it because it's rare and cool. I use a K&N off the shelf filter, had to lose the stocker to fit a power steering pump.
residual valves are little plastic gizmos that live in the MC right where the brake lines thread in, they keep a certain residual pressure in the brake lines. Less for discs, more for drums. decreases the pedal travel distance as I understand it. Keeps the shoes or pads closer to whatever they rub on.
Bombardments of questions is why 'Mud is here.

View attachment 3557090

What is the "wide-runner" intake manifold? Is that from an FJ40? My 69 doesn't have the "firing order" on it.

 

[Pighead]

What is the "wide-runner" intake manifold? Is that from an FJ40? My 69 doesn't have the "firing order" on it.

It might have been a Toyota response to Muscle Cars and other manufacturers making aftermarket intake manifolds with multiple carbs or 4 barrel carbs for the F engine. I don't know what months, but they only seem to be on '69ish LandCruisers, 40s and 55s. The "wide runners" might have helped with airflow, probably not. They didn't last long. But they're kinda rare and sorta cool so I run one.

 

[BOBWhite74]

Good news is I don't see any any obvious cracks that would have caused this much water to enter the crankcase. I didn't see any water in the cylinders so the water must have entered through the pushrod tubes.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Well that is indeed great news. You might be a few gaskets away from a running F.5

 

[BOBWhite74]

Not only is this head gasket wrong but I'm guessing its a cheepo felpro. And wow that's a heavy head!

Now its just a matter of cleaning the mayonnaise out of the crankcase as well as finding the unobtainable head gasket. Wonder if someone could cut out some multi layer steel gaskets on a CNC machine.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Not only is this head gasket wrong but I'm guessing its a cheepo felpro. And wow that's a heavy head!
View attachment 3589400
Now its just a matter of cleaning the mayonnaise out of the crankcase as well as finding the unobtainable head gasket. Wonder if someone could cut out some multi layer steel gaskets on a CNC machine.

Oddly the OEM and aftermarket F.5 gaskets also block some ports (see my thread link above). The gasket isn't unobtainable imo

 

[Sparkman86]

Not only is this head gasket wrong but I'm guessing its a cheepo felpro. And wow that's a heavy head!
View attachment 3589400
Now its just a matter of cleaning the mayonnaise out of the crankcase as well as finding the unobtainable head gasket. Wonder if someone could cut out some multi layer steel gaskets on a CNC machine.

If it helps, here's a comparison of the head gasket of unknown manufacture i took off a 1974 F.5 compared to the aftermarket AJUSA replacement i put back on. I couldn't find an OEM replacement since they appeared to be discontinued but I liked the quality of the AJUSA and it actually fit the port shapes better than the old one.

I'm curious what that threaded stud is between your middle two cylinders. I have an opening there but no stud.

 

[BOBWhite74]

Mystery solved! I think. Couldn't find any obvious traces of water escaping through the head gasket so I checked the head plugs and found one had a tiny hole in one. Phone camera got oily so kind hard to see in the picture.

Thing is these plugs aren't all that old so I have no idea what caused this. Probably should replace them all but I don't know how to remove them.