Ok, i was confused. Sorry for the mix up.
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- Thread starter
- #102
Remade the clutch line. I bought a 16” line and cut one fitting off to save me the trouble of making two. Bent it up nice. This all made me want to redo the POs hand bent lines
This is the line I bought. It was already straight, vs buying a coil. 16" proved to be just right. I cut one end off, tossed the fittings and slid on the Toyota ones from my old line. Also saved me the trouble of making two flares since I could reuse one.
I used this flaring tool to do the double flare on the cut end. It is not the best but worked fine for this job.
There are a bunch of how to videos on flares, I went by this one from Repairs101.
This is the line I bought. It was already straight, vs buying a coil. 16" proved to be just right. I cut one end off, tossed the fittings and slid on the Toyota ones from my old line. Also saved me the trouble of making two flares since I could reuse one.
I used this flaring tool to do the double flare on the cut end. It is not the best but worked fine for this job.
There are a bunch of how to videos on flares, I went by this one from Repairs101.
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- Thread starter
- #103
After Friday night, 14 hours yesterday and all of this morning it’s running! Im thrilled. Couldn’t be happier! It purrs like a kitten and I feel like I know the rig much more intimately than I did before having gone through all that. There are not any good photos of the wiring re-re-install but it went much easier this time based on learning from my mistakes the first time.
I drove it to my fathers house to hang out over there for Fathers Day and give him a hand with some tree work. I had to relearn to drive it, not the 3 on the tree, but the manual brakes and manual steering. It didn’t help that I may or may not have had the seats back in.
I have a plan of things to do, but not taking it off the road for extended periods of time again is essential to making progress.
The one issue I had was the lights not working correctly. The wires all had continuity so I don’t believe the harness is the issue. I disconnected the HL switch which I think is bad. This would make sense given that was the circuit that shorted out. I’m going to pull it out to test it and see what’s going on. Perhaps I connected something wrong. I expect I will have questions.
Thanks again to everyone on mud for being such a great resource and keeping me motivated! I know I have a long way to go, but this is a big milestone
I drove it to my fathers house to hang out over there for Fathers Day and give him a hand with some tree work. I had to relearn to drive it, not the 3 on the tree, but the manual brakes and manual steering. It didn’t help that I may or may not have had the seats back in.
I have a plan of things to do, but not taking it off the road for extended periods of time again is essential to making progress.
The one issue I had was the lights not working correctly. The wires all had continuity so I don’t believe the harness is the issue. I disconnected the HL switch which I think is bad. This would make sense given that was the circuit that shorted out. I’m going to pull it out to test it and see what’s going on. Perhaps I connected something wrong. I expect I will have questions.
Thanks again to everyone on mud for being such a great resource and keeping me motivated! I know I have a long way to go, but this is a big milestone
- Thread starter
- #104
I removed anything not headlight, tail light and turn signal lighting from the diagram to make it easier to chase down what is wrong. I hope it is just the wrong connector in the wrong place. I also need to double check the inline fuse. May replace it with a modern one like I did on the fuse block, I have some left over marine inline fuse holders from when we repowered and rewired my buddy's center console last year.
Questions:
Would chassis grounds still be good or should I run it back to the battery? Maybe I should ground them direct to the battery either way since it is right there. After my last experience I want to get this right.
Edit: used some black wire to run a ground to my battery for the HLs. Using LEDs with comparable/less draw than stock bulbs depending on where you look
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- #105
Got the headlights working. Pretty simple once I chased everything. Focusing on the turn signals next. I think I know what the issue is but need to swap some wires to get it right.
I am using H4 Hella headlight glass with LED bulbs. They look classic. The bulbs are very bright but I’m going to switch from the older fan cooled ones with external drivers to some fanless ones with internal drivers from super bright LEDs. Same specs, longer rated life, no fan noise or driver wanting to flop around. I’ll report back on them when I get them in. These can become spares.
Also, got the speedo cable replaced with one from Cruiser Outfitters. I haven’t had one and for some reason I had it in my head that it went through the firewall like the e brake cable does and with those bolts. Really nice, high quality part. Made in Japan. Ten minute job
I am using H4 Hella headlight glass with LED bulbs. They look classic. The bulbs are very bright but I’m going to switch from the older fan cooled ones with external drivers to some fanless ones with internal drivers from super bright LEDs. Same specs, longer rated life, no fan noise or driver wanting to flop around. I’ll report back on them when I get them in. These can become spares.
Also, got the speedo cable replaced with one from Cruiser Outfitters. I haven’t had one and for some reason I had it in my head that it went through the firewall like the e brake cable does and with those bolts. Really nice, high quality part. Made in Japan. Ten minute job
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- #106
Tonight after work I bolted on the fairlead and my wife helped me spool new Warn cable onto the 8274 I rebuilt. Worked great! Tied off to a big oak with a tow strap at a slight incline across my yard and my wife maneuvered the rig and bumped the controller while I manipulated the cable.
I went with 100' of 5/16 Warn wire rope with free shipping via Amazon. Apparently it came with 150' but I cant see myself ever needing that much around here. A lot of the planetary winches come with 100' and the 8274-50s now, according to Warn, come with 125' of 3/8 now.
I also got the Warn 99944 bump stop and put that on.
The fairlead was a Smittybilt 97281-47. I knew from the reviews it would not come in all zinc plated, and I was fine with the housing being black. Couldnt justify the markup for the Warn, especially when a lot of reviews said it was also made in China. Same with the hook, I just got a generic load rated one locally. I am not a fan of the contemporary looking "epic" hooks anyway. I did have to go up a size because the 5/16 would not fit over the thimble.
I watched a couple videos on youtube before doing it. Here and here.
I went with 100' of 5/16 Warn wire rope with free shipping via Amazon. Apparently it came with 150' but I cant see myself ever needing that much around here. A lot of the planetary winches come with 100' and the 8274-50s now, according to Warn, come with 125' of 3/8 now.
I also got the Warn 99944 bump stop and put that on.
The fairlead was a Smittybilt 97281-47. I knew from the reviews it would not come in all zinc plated, and I was fine with the housing being black. Couldnt justify the markup for the Warn, especially when a lot of reviews said it was also made in China. Same with the hook, I just got a generic load rated one locally. I am not a fan of the contemporary looking "epic" hooks anyway. I did have to go up a size because the 5/16 would not fit over the thimble.
I watched a couple videos on youtube before doing it. Here and here.
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- #107
Getting things together to do all the fluids. Realized my local tractor supply sells Baldwin filters under their own label. I saw the picture and decided to check it out. They don’t even unbox it, they just put it in their box. It seems fitting my 40 would use parts marketed for tractors.
going with VR1 and Redline MT-90. VR1 in 6 individual quarts was cheaper than a 5 quart container. $33 on Amazon shipped. Go figure.
going with VR1 and Redline MT-90. VR1 in 6 individual quarts was cheaper than a 5 quart container. $33 on Amazon shipped. Go figure.
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- #108
I had previously done an H4 conversion with LED bulbs, but they were had external drivers that wanted to flop around and fans that was just more moving parts than I was comfortable with. They were also from some fly by night Amazon brand that is NLA.
In the 4 years since superbrightleds.com released these fanless lights with internal drivers, much longer rated life and great reviews. They are rated for the same 4,000 lumens and having swapped the two I can confirm they are equivalent. I’m happy with them as they work great and in the Hella glass just look right.
The others will go in box as spares
In the 4 years since superbrightleds.com released these fanless lights with internal drivers, much longer rated life and great reviews. They are rated for the same 4,000 lumens and having swapped the two I can confirm they are equivalent. I’m happy with them as they work great and in the Hella glass just look right.
The others will go in box as spares
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- #109
I did my fluids this weekend along with all out other vehicles. I figured doing so was a good time to replace my frayed oil filter lines with the braided ones from SOR as a bit of preventative maintenance.
It all seemed like it was going well until I realized I had a leak. Went to snug it up and it got easier to turn. Turns out the oil pressure regulator cracked and came apart, so I’ll be looking for a new one tomorrow
It all seemed like it was going well until I realized I had a leak. Went to snug it up and it got easier to turn. Turns out the oil pressure regulator cracked and came apart, so I’ll be looking for a new one tomorrow
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- #110
Draining the trans and t case went a lot better. I have no idea how the PO overfilled them as much as he did. I got worried when the trans was high, then realized the t case was as well.
SL-4, lube safe for yellow metals
I installed the transfer case by pass hose sold on here. It’s a really nice piece and an added bit of insurance.
i think someone had painted this t case with red primer along the way 
SL-4, lube safe for yellow metals
I installed the transfer case by pass hose sold on here. It’s a really nice piece and an added bit of insurance.
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- #111
I discovered my reverse switch was busted and had been pushed back together somewhere along the way. I found a thread on here and the part was cheap, heavy duty and worked out perfectly. Fastronix #305-001. Mud to the rescue!
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- #112
I got my turn signals and brake lights working. I still don’t fully understand how it works, or why GO and GY need to be used multiple times. Something was wrong with one flasher relay I think. It seems my turn signal flasher is on the right, and the hazards is on the left next to the turn signal switch. Before I disconnected it the brakes only worked when the hazards were pulled, but turn signals only worked when hazard was pushed in, otherwise it would audibly buzz the flasher relay.
I see the relay is NLA so it looks like I need to order Toyota 81980-12H04.
I see the relay is NLA so it looks like I need to order Toyota 81980-12H04.
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- #113
I made a separate post and ended up getting an oil pressure regulator from Marks Off-road. I cleaned it up and painted it with some engine enamel. I made the gasket from some felpro material I had and gave it an hour shakedown around town last night. No leaks!
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- #114
I have found myself and anyone who wants to look into the engine bay using the ARB bumper as a step. It is just begging to be with that tube to grab and flat surface, however whenever it is damp it gets very slippery. I found this aluminum nosing on home depot's website when looking or something else. Should be plenty of grip to step up on. It fit just right to not get into the winch opening and left room for the two KC lights I have should I choose to reinstall them. I cut it down, cleaned it up, hit it with some flat black paint and it looks great, especially with the flat finish against the gloss.
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- #115
I put the seats back in with some new belts from retro belt. They are the airplane latch style which I know is not correct but I have always liked them. The price was right. I also fixed the mesh seat back pockets with new black bungee chord from gear aid. A 10' piece was more than enough. I have always used seat back pockets in my vehicles to keep things handy. Removing the backs of the E36 seats was simple, 2 screws and take the head rests off. Then it was as simple as popping some clips off to get at the wire frame. My wife really likes the seats. I would like mine to be lower, and may modify the frame accordingly. If I go to a rear Downey tank I can go lower with both. Or I could section the frame and just lower my part. It works, but could be better.
I have a front floor liner from SOR. It is plastic with the diamond plate tread and is supposed to go over the hump but really interferes with the gas pedal. It just refuses to lay into the corner next to the trans cover. I'm debating if I should take my heat gun to it, cut it into floor mats or just get rid of it. I never had the pedal covers and now that I put them on, I dont remove them. Any thoughts?
We took it for a drive and did about an hour with no incidents. Lights all worked great. I am very happy with the head lights. The heaters need to be addressed, the rear heater is noisy and the front was not blowing. Also I need to shut that off on the head, which I did when I got home but that valve is really tight. I was worried I was going to snap it off the entire time. Im contemplating doing something inline. and cable operated instead.
It started to rain about 2 miles from home. I got the wipers to work but the switch had to be just right to make contact. I ordered a new one from City Racer LLC this morning. Then when they were going, they were streaky as heck. I thought they must be bad, they have been there since the PO, but they looked great. Doing some measuring and they are 15" long, which looks like it puts it up onto the weather stripping as it goes through the motions, riding up on the top when it is stowed, and across the bottom when it sweeps. Picked up some 13" ones to try.
Based on how it feels chugging up hills, I need to sort out a distributor with vacuum advance next. Right now mine is capped and running on mechanical only.
Also, the suspension needs to get addressed this fall. I want to go from a 4" to a 2"-2.5". The rough countries have no flex and are just too short for good shackle angles, even with weight in the back, the hard top on, two people, a full tank of gas and the winch and bumper up front, the shackles are still on the wrong side of vertical.
I have a front floor liner from SOR. It is plastic with the diamond plate tread and is supposed to go over the hump but really interferes with the gas pedal. It just refuses to lay into the corner next to the trans cover. I'm debating if I should take my heat gun to it, cut it into floor mats or just get rid of it. I never had the pedal covers and now that I put them on, I dont remove them. Any thoughts?
We took it for a drive and did about an hour with no incidents. Lights all worked great. I am very happy with the head lights. The heaters need to be addressed, the rear heater is noisy and the front was not blowing. Also I need to shut that off on the head, which I did when I got home but that valve is really tight. I was worried I was going to snap it off the entire time. Im contemplating doing something inline. and cable operated instead.
It started to rain about 2 miles from home. I got the wipers to work but the switch had to be just right to make contact. I ordered a new one from City Racer LLC this morning. Then when they were going, they were streaky as heck. I thought they must be bad, they have been there since the PO, but they looked great. Doing some measuring and they are 15" long, which looks like it puts it up onto the weather stripping as it goes through the motions, riding up on the top when it is stowed, and across the bottom when it sweeps. Picked up some 13" ones to try.
Based on how it feels chugging up hills, I need to sort out a distributor with vacuum advance next. Right now mine is capped and running on mechanical only.
Also, the suspension needs to get addressed this fall. I want to go from a 4" to a 2"-2.5". The rough countries have no flex and are just too short for good shackle angles, even with weight in the back, the hard top on, two people, a full tank of gas and the winch and bumper up front, the shackles are still on the wrong side of vertical.
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- Thread starter
- #116
It took some relief cuts and the heat gun but I got the mat to lay flat and fit the contours well enough to not knock the gas pedal cover off and give me full range of motion. Required some trimming but it looks alright. It will do until I pull the trigger on a tub.
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- #117
Installed a gear reduction starter I got from @cruiseroutfit . Wow what a difference! My wife asked “is that too fast?” after the chugging starts of old. It is usually a process to finess the right balance of choke and gas…. Fired right up almost instantly, I really wasn’t ready for it.
It also installed easier since there is so much access. The body of the old starter sticks out beyond the hardware.
I had to lengthen a couple wires but otherwise it was a really easy job
some of the gunk looked like it had been back there since 1970
It also installed easier since there is so much access. The body of the old starter sticks out beyond the hardware.
I had to lengthen a couple wires but otherwise it was a really easy job
some of the gunk looked like it had been back there since 1970
firemanj92
SILVER Star
While you have the starter out, or more room, paint that timing pointer in the window above the starter with a q-tip so you can see it better when you check/set timing. BTW, when you lost your oil regulator, I had lost mine at the same time on the fitting though, right after I re-installed the freshly built motor. It was leaking, so I tightened it, still leaked, tightened again, then saw a crack.
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- #119
Good call on the timing dot, I had the same thought and hit it with a silver sharpie I had handy. I’m glad this starter provides so much more clearance to the window.
That’s quite a coincidence about the oil pressure regulator, did you get it sorted out?
firemanj92
SILVER Star
Yep, after I sent you vendor(s) info, I had to order one. The hose kit I used was from Redlinelandcruisers. I'm waiting for the NOS oem lines now delayed in transit and I'll use teflon tape on the threads I guess.
I used a q-tip and sprayed a piece of cardboard with white paint I had laying around then dipped the q-tip in it and painted the pointer.
