1970 in CT (1 Viewer)

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Jun 7, 2016
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Doing a lot of little things to my 11/69 FJ40 so I figured I would document them. I did an intro but this is where I will post my slow build. Mud has been a great help and I am sure I will continue to rely on this as I go through it.

My plan is to work on this truck as I enjoy it. I dont want to do a 3 year full frame off. I dont plan to drive it in the winter up here so thats is when I will be doing most of the work. This winter Im just going through it, replacing and updating engine items. Getting it to where I can enjoy it. In the spring Im going to address the suspension. Eventually I think I will get an aluminum tub and repaint paint it.

I purchased 11/69 this summer. Ive always wanted on since I was a kid. My great-uncle had one in the woods he would never sell to my father until it eventually rotted away and he had it dragged out. Ive always been a Toyota fan, having owned several myself and in my family. Even interned at TMS in Torrance in 2007. I drove a 96 Tacoma through college which I sold to get a commuter car. Ive had a few toys but downsized when I bought my house.

Id been casually looking over the last three years and found one beautiful roller I still want to buy but the guy got nostalgic and backed out while I was arranging a trailer. In May after I got back from visiting a friend teaching in Rwanda I knew I needed to get serious. I found it in Mass. The previous owner had it a few years. He told me it came out of a barn in Maine. He put new shoes on it, put in new axles (77 Im told), tightened up the steering and added a roll bar. He said he rebuilt the trans, t case and carb. The first two leave puddles and the carb only runs on one barrel right now. I think the t case needs a front seal and the trans maybe overfilled. The PO put a Rough Country lift in it. I put 400 lbs in the back and flexed it every night for over a month (big part of why I hardly drove it this fall). I went through its issues in a post a while back. Its a brutal ride I will likely replace.

It has its warts but I love it. Its a 3 on the tree, vac shift t case F engine rig. It came with tall skinny BFG 33s on power coated factory wheels. The body has a good amount of rust. The floors are junk, patched together. Rockers are held together by diamond plate, so are the rear corners. Roof is solid. Fenders are there but need work. Frame looks solid.


Ive driven it only three of four times on short trips around town. Right now it is in my small garage with the hood and bib off as I work on the engine.
Engine Bay.jpg
 
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720
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One of the first things I did was take that roof rack off. It was bent and mounted directly to the fiberglass. Nothing Id ever trust. Once it was off, it bent over my knee.

Now there are holes in the roof. The roof was not in good condition anyway so this summer I want to take it all apart and get the fiberglass fixed. A guy down the road from me owns a company that does glass work on boats on Long Island Sound, when I contacted him I found out he also hunts on my cousins land (small world.) The roof has peeling paint and is different colors. One closer to the body color, one pure white. The drain channel needs to be fixed in the front too.
IMG_7669.JPG
 
Joined
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Messages
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Not an impressive upgrade but one of the first things I did was replace the gas springs. Small victories. For the shocks I used two 50lbs www.mcmater.com springs part number 9416K19.

Extended Length 18.62"
Compressed Length 10.35"
Stroke Length 8.27"
M6 rod ends.

The springs had a vendor part number on them when I got them: 1620 www.suspaparts.com

I added on McMaster part number 9416K74. I did not go with the quick disconnect because I think these give a cleaner look and the clip is easy to pop off. I cant say what shipping was because I ordered it with other items but it wasnt more that $8 for everything.
For the brackets I used steel brackets from a company called JR Products. These are RV brackets and when I contacted the manufacturer they said 50lbs would be no problem and they are often used with 150lbs springs. I bought them off amazon because of free shipping and free returns with Prime.
JR Products BR-12553 10mm Angled Gas Spring Mounting Bracket - $8.17 for the pair
JR Products BR-1020 10mm Flat Gas Spring Mounting Bracket- $7.70 for the pair

The upper brackets required I drill a new hole and open up the existing one I was going to use.
The lowers required a new hole and I cut off a tab about 3/4"
Lower bracket JR Products BR-1020 by ryanwk628 posted Jul 31, 2016 at 3:31 PM

It all mounted up nice and looks very clean. Out the door I was looking at $43.35 for the spring and rod ends and $15.87 for the brackets.

It works great and gives me just a little extra travel.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Connecticut
Joined
Jun 7, 2016
Messages
720
Location
Connecticut
The upholstery on my bench seat was blown out and frankly, at 6'6 I just didnt fit well with the factory seats and wheel. I pulled them out and sold them to a fellow Nutmegger who is doing a restoration. Im glad they could go to a good home!

With the seats out I could start on putting in buckets and a Tuffy. It also exposed more rust which I needed to patch as the rotted out tool box was the only thing holding the floor in. Its not a perfect patch, there is not a lot to weld to, but it will get me by until I get a tub.
IMG_7627.JPG

Looks like water sat in the drivers side floor while the truck sat.

IMG_7629.JPG

Patch the 40 came with.

IMG_7631.JPG

Yum.

I bent up some plate to span that area and welded it in. I thought I had pictures but I will take some and update. No saving that tool box.

IMG_7641.JPG

I got a pair of leather BMW seats
 
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Knowing I wanted to move to buckets and a Tuffy I ordered a seat from from Bill (cumminscruiser@sbcglobal.net).
IMG_7634.JPG

This was a lot of put it in, test fit, take it out. The rear where the foot should have gone was gone so I worked off a hole the PO had drilled for a seat belt. The front leg had to be shortened. This all sat about as high as the bench, but the BMW seats are thinner.
IMG_7636.JPG

The BMW seats had to lose the sliders and get fixed mounted. This was a PITA. I had to custom make some brackets at work. Thankfully we have a plasma cutter and no one cares if I cut a few small pieces.
IMG_7643.JPG

Made some longer and curved brackets (not shown) to span the points where the sliders used to mount.

IMG_7875.JPG

You can see some of the brackets here. This is tacked up without provisions for the Tuffy Box
 
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Messages
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Here is how its going to look. 10" Tuffy fit fine
IMG_8071.JPG


I worked out provisions for the Tuffy and finish welded the frame. I have to assemble and mount it but am holding off until I replace the heater hoses and remove the trans tunnel cover.
IMG_8248.JPG
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
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In the mean time I got the 40 into the garage and started the slow process of fighting rust. The engine came with the stock valve cover which leaked like crazy. The whole block is caked. I cant tell what other issues there maybe with all of this gunk on the the block and accessories. Valve cover got replaced right away with a 2F cast version. I had some double elbow thing rigged up but ended up replacing it with a K&N 62-1340 vent filter and put a vacuum cap on the intake.
engine un restored.JPG

valve cover.JPG

Took the hood off and got going on the bib. The bib looks like it has never been separated from the fenders. Most of those bolts had to be drilled out.
IMG_7777.JPG


I took the bumper off as its not really mounted right. The bolts on the bottom are all busted off from when someone hit something and bent it.

I am doing the entire cooling system. It was full of sediment. White deposits inside everything. Hoses leaking, very soft. I ordered Toyota radiator hoses, gates 5/8" heater hose, a water pump, toyota t stat and gaskets, stainless hose wire clamps from @Racer65 and a champion radiator. I went champion because my brother has one in his mustang and loves it.

IMG_8300.JPG

I had to cut some wires at the terminal blocks which were totally shot. I got marine terminal blocks from Blue Sea Systems and heat shrink #8 ring terminals. The wires under the radiator were very brittle and will be replaced.

I could use a warm weekend day to wash some of this sludge off the block with some engine degreaser.

IMG_7777.JPG
 
Joined
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Messages
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I have my other radiator, but it needs to be cleaned out and I dont know the condition. I dont see any leaks, but there is some corrosion. Im replacing components so I know they are new and in good working order. This is the Champion just sitting in there
IMG_8305.JPG

In this photo you can see some of the lovely corrosion. I did a full flush after I drained the radiator but Im going to be letting some white vinegar sit in my block this week before assembling.

One bolt came out, the other busted at the top, however I was able to work it off and get the bolt out. I really did not want to replace either the upper or lower housing. Also a good pic of the engine gunk.
IMG_8306.JPG


IMG_8363.JPG

This is the old radiator.

IMG_8298.JPG

Heater hoses. Grommet fell apart and the clamps broke as I expected them to.
 
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Messages
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Location
Connecticut
To anyone else doing this, spend the $5 and get the grommet too. Ill be waiting on a new one before reinstalling the hoses. \
IMG_8302.JPG


I took the brackets off the clean and paint. What else should I be doing while Im in here?
IMG_8357.JPG


While Im ordering a heater grommet, replace or save?
IMG_8367.JPG

IMG_8368.JPG


Im also looking to replace the fan, but is $100 OEM really the way to go? Seems way too much for plastic. Id rather not trust a used fan because you never now the history. Not crazy about the big flex fans as they will require a 1" spacer to deal with the 2 1/4" depth. It puts it a little far into the shroud beyond the 50/50 recommendation. Same is true of a lot of the nylon fans though less so as they would likely only need a 1/2". Unfortunately there are not a lot of options at 16". Would a low profile 15" fan (one inch smaller diameter) be a huge loss in my factory shroud? Maybe Im over thinking this as the OEM plastic fan gets spaced into the shroud. Anyone know the depth of the white OEM 6 blade fan?

IMG_8307.JPG
 
Joined
Jan 6, 2012
Messages
9,690
Don't toss the original struts. SOR buys those off of people. Contact them about it.
Not an impressive upgrade but one of the first things I did was replace the gas springs. Small victories. For the shocks I used two 50lbs www.mcmater.com springs part number 9416K19.

Extended Length 18.62"
Compressed Length 10.35"
Stroke Length 8.27"
M6 rod ends.

The springs had a vendor part number on them when I got them: 1620 www.suspaparts.com

I added on McMaster part number 9416K74. I did not go with the quick disconnect because I think these give a cleaner look and the clip is easy to pop off. I cant say what shipping was because I ordered it with other items but it wasnt more that $8 for everything.
For the brackets I used steel brackets from a company called JR Products. These are RV brackets and when I contacted the manufacturer they said 50lbs would be no problem and they are often used with 150lbs springs. I bought them off amazon because of free shipping and free returns with Prime.
JR Products BR-12553 10mm Angled Gas Spring Mounting Bracket - $8.17 for the pair
JR Products BR-1020 10mm Flat Gas Spring Mounting Bracket- $7.70 for the pair

The upper brackets required I drill a new hole and open up the existing one I was going to use.
The lowers required a new hole and I cut off a tab about 3/4"
Lower bracket JR Products BR-1020 by ryanwk628 posted Jul 31, 2016 at 3:31 PM

It all mounted up nice and looks very clean. Out the door I was looking at $43.35 for the spring and rod ends and $15.87 for the brackets.

It works great and gives me just a little extra travel.
 
Joined
Jan 6, 2012
Messages
9,690
To anyone else doing this, spend the $5 and get the grommet too. Ill be waiting on a new one before reinstalling the hoses. \
View attachment 1383117

I took the brackets off the clean and paint. What else should I be doing while Im in here?
View attachment 1383118

While Im ordering a heater grommet, replace or save?
View attachment 1383119
View attachment 1383120

Im also looking to replace the fan, but is $100 OEM really the way to go? Seems way too much for plastic. Id rather not trust a used fan because you never now the history. Not crazy about the big flex fans as they will require a 1" spacer to deal with the 2 1/4" depth. It puts it a little far into the shroud beyond the 50/50 recommendation. Same is true of a lot of the nylon fans though less so as they would likely only need a 1/2". Unfortunately there are not a lot of options at 16". Would a low profile 15" fan (one inch smaller diameter) be a huge loss in my factory shroud? Maybe Im over thinking this as the OEM plastic fan gets spaced into the shroud. Anyone know the depth of the white OEM 6 blade fan?

View attachment 1383121
I would probably just yank the whole motor/Trans/tcase combo at this point and clean it all up and replace all seals and gaskets. You are bout 2 hours labor away from doing that.
 

chappohj47

Chappo Built
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Aus
Looking good mate you have done plenty of work. Love the tow rig
 
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Connecticut
Don't toss the original struts. SOR buys those off of people. Contact them about it.
Already did and got a gift card! $80 goes fast over there

I would probably just yank the whole motor/Trans/tcase combo at this point and clean it all up and replace all seals and gaskets. You are bout 2 hours labor away from doing that.
I wish I could but space is a limiting factor in my little basement garage because Ive only got about 3 feet to move around in right now. My father is building a 3 car garage with a lift (which was supposed to be done this year) about 10 minutes away so hopefully that is where it will winter in the future. Pulling it is definitely on my list but I just dont have the means now. Do I need to pull it to do that front T case seal?

I could do the oil pan and push rod cover gasket if needed. Rear main seal would be more of a challenge. Cant really tell with everything that leaked out of the old valve cover. I ordered a carb from @Trollhole and am excited to get that on. I will hang onto my factory one to rebuild and have a spare. I noticed a slight leak in exhaust gasket when I was flushing the cooling system, but the gasket does not appear blown out so Im going to check torques and hopefully thats all it is.

The PO put in a petronix and did plugs and wires so Im not messing with that save for possibly cleaning up the wiring. Is the coil worth updating?

I need to clean up some wiring in the back too. I only have one running light, but both emergency flashers, no reverse light and no license plate light.

Im learning that things I expect should only take two hours end up taking much longer, especially as I am dealing with these rusted bolts haha
 

David70FJ40

Older Than Most
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Messages
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Location
High Point, NC
The heater return pipe in my '70 had a hole in it so I took it to a local radiator shop and he welded the hold and sandblasted the pipe so I could give it a new coat of paint and a new life. Looked almost new when I was finished.

Your 40 looks a lot like mine did 2 years ago, rusted front floor and rusted tool box. Looks like you have made a lot of headway to the completion.

One word of thanks, the part number for the K&N filter was what I had been looking for. Ordered today from Advance Auto and will have it in two days. (Maybe I wasn't looking in the right place or was using the wrong terminology.)
 
Joined
Jan 6, 2012
Messages
9,690
Already did and got a gift card! $80 goes fast over there


I wish I could but space is a limiting factor in my little basement garage because Ive only got about 3 feet to move around in right now. My father is building a 3 car garage with a lift (which was supposed to be done this year) about 10 minutes away so hopefully that is where it will winter in the future. Pulling it is definitely on my list but I just dont have the means now. Do I need to pull it to do that front T case seal?

I could do the oil pan and push rod cover gasket if needed. Rear main seal would be more of a challenge. Cant really tell with everything that leaked out of the old valve cover. I ordered a carb from @Trollhole and am excited to get that on. I will hang onto my factory one to rebuild and have a spare. I noticed a slight leak in exhaust gasket when I was flushing the cooling system, but the gasket does not appear blown out so Im going to check torques and hopefully thats all it is.

The PO put in a petronix and did plugs and wires so Im not messing with that save for possibly cleaning up the wiring. Is the coil worth updating?

I need to clean up some wiring in the back too. I only have one running light, but both emergency flashers, no reverse light and no license plate light.

Im learning that things I expect should only take two hours end up taking much longer, especially as I am dealing with these rusted bolts haha
Well more than likely pretty much all your seals are leaking. So while it may be difficult, I would still yank it all out. Yes it's a pain, but most of those seals and gaskets are probably pretty old. Your original radiator is probably repairable. Someone here would likely buy it.
 
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Well more than likely pretty much all your seals are leaking. So while it may be difficult, I would still yank it all out. Yes it's a pain, but most of those seals and gaskets are probably pretty old. Your original radiator is probably repairable. Someone here would likely buy it.

I will likely sell the old radiator.

On the seals, the PO told me he pulled the trans and t case and rebuilt them with parts from Cruiser Outfitters. He was really enamored with Kurt and how helpful they were so I dont doubt they are new. My cruiser also came with a parts T case which I believe was the original one.
 
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Last night amidst other tinkering I started to pull the carb off for the Trollhole one and inspect the header gasket. I noticed white on the side bottom of the exhaust manifold and on closer inspection saw the heat riser is just flopping around in there with several missing parts.

I'm not going to restore the heat riser, too much needed to make it work and this truck isn't going out in the winter. Apparently it hasn't been enough of an issue to notice, but I imagine it is Ann obstruction. Should I a) pull the butterfly out, plug the holes and install a block off plate Cruiser Outfitters sells to keep the intake from getting too hot or b) weld the butterfly in the open position?

Heat Riser.jpg
 
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Spent a few hours with the wire wheel then hit some parts with POR15 before paint.
IMG_8396.JPG
IMG_8397.JPG


I drove a 96 Tacoma all through college. In 2008 they were doing the frame recall and giving over blue book for trucks to get them off the road. I was pumped and thought I'd buy a new Taco since I was going to be graduating and getting my first engineering job. They were litterally buying everything. While I was in the lot looking at a white extra cab, the guy from the shop walked over and said it passed. The salesman's jaw dropped. It was the only one they hand not taken at that point because my frame was perfect. Thanks POR15.
 
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All that clean up work takes time, doesn't it? :D

Looks like you are making good progress and you should be able to confidently take the truck out longer trips come warm weather. I broke one of the bolts in my thermostat housing as well. . . I ended up removing the bottom section from the block and was luckily able to work the broken bolt out on the work bench. Seems like Salt + Aluminum + Steel creates problems for us in the Northeast when it comes to removing bolts from aluminum. I will also be "minimizing" my heat riser. I have read where several folks have removed the entire assembly and welded up the holes in the manifold. I will probably still keep my pieces in place but I ordered the steel block off plate to install between the two manifolds. I may have to trim the flapper a bit so everything will clear but like you I don't plan on driving in the cold too much. Keep up the good work, looking forward to watching you move forward.
 

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