1970 in CT (3 Viewers)

[ryanwk628]

Unbeknownst to me, my wife took this photo of me staring at the wiring diagram to put on her Instagram. I’m not on Instagram so I had no idea when someone mentioned it to me. I’m thinking this could be my new profile pic

 

[ryanwk628]

With the new windshield wiper switch I decided to get the windshield washer system going as well. Used OEM nozzles, though I think these are later model units. Sprays a ton of fluid! I find it funny that my rig does not have power brakes but has windshield washer fluid.

The PO had modern wiper blades that were too long on straight arms that hit the weather stripping on both ends, making them useless. I was able to replace the drivers side with an OE arm and a 12" wiper blade which works perfectly. The other side was broken and someone tried to rivet it, probably why the PO changed the arms.

So I need to get another wiper arm for the passenger side. Is 85190-60061 the correct part (I cant tell if the bend is the correct direction) or do I need to find a used 85190-60050? Need to order some parts for my wife's Matrix, so I am going to be sneaking a few Land Cruiser bits on to the order.

 

[ryanwk628]

Took the top off for the first time since Ive owned it. Very easy in my father's building. Hopefully I can do some repairs while it is off. Im going to use some thickened epoxy to fix holes and cracks, and potentially fit the front section of the rain gutter.

The Rough Country springs are even worse without the weight of the roof. New springs has moved to the top of my list.

The rear jump seats are going to come out, at least one of them. The PO spacing them in really makes them too close to use both at the same time. Looking into a fold down leg or two to support it... or later model jump seats if I can find/justify them.

 

[ryanwk628]

Put on the best top soft half doors I’ve had squirreled away. I had to space out the strikers to get them to work and used some UHMW I had that was just the right thickness.

Getting the door hinge pins out was a real bear. Just did not want to move. Also my windshield does not fold as the hinges are stuck so I’ll have to address that at some point

 

[ryanwk628]

Started on a rear tire carrier. I began to acquire parts back when I thought I’d build some bigger full width step bumper after first acquiring the rig. Really liked the 4x4 innovations stuff. Price has gone up a good deal since I got it a couple years ago, but awesome quality and I like the design. Changed plans to go with more of the popular swing out type design and only on half the truck.

Tried to keep it just inside the over all width. I want the tire to end up more or less in the stock location.

Really happy with how these full pen V groove welds cleaned up. Debating adding some small fish plates across them to add strength.

Lower half

More to come

 

[pb4ugo]

I squirted PB blaster periodically on the w/s hinges while doing other projects thru the year. When it came time to try and fold it down it went down with a little resistance. You can knock the pins in and out too. Be careful not to bend the hinges.

 

[ryanwk628]

I squirted PB blaster periodically on the w/s hinges while doing other projects thru the year. When it came time to try and fold it down it went down with a little resistance. You can knock the pins in and out too. Be careful not to bend the hinges.

Thanks! I gave them a good soak. Ill keep it up until just before I have to put the roof back on. Good tip on the pins, I did not think to try that!

 

[ryanwk628]

Made some progress last night. I can’t decide where I want the tire elevation, right now it comes to about the top edge of the swing out tube. I could drop it <2” and take it down to the bottom edge of the swing out. Or split the difference. Thoughts?

 

[ryanwk628]

Slow progress on the tire carrier. A bit of scope creep too. I realized why some of the more reputable manufactures angle their upright, it keeps it away from the body. You can see in the third picture I cut the horizontal part back as much as I could and purchased a small poly bumper and set it at the same height as the bumper from the OEM tire carrier.

I cut the tubes flush at the end and am adding a spring pin there, made a UHMW shim for vertical loads which I put a nice taper on and tapped the tube for some countersunk M6s. Im adding a handle, a latch, and a plate I made and bent with bumpers for the horizontal, so it should be solidly restrained.

I added a zerk for the bearings, tucked in where it doesnt interfere with anything. My NPT tap was made in Japan but really did not want to cut threads. In hindsight I should have used a press in fitting and saved myself the trouble.

I have a 45 degree kicker I need to burn in off the main upright.

On the other side Im kicking around mounting a small shovel next to the vertical member with two quick fists, or one and a tab, bolt and wing nut at the bottom. The small garden shovel hides nicely behind the tire.

The hinge swings very nicely on the two bearings, and I like that the shaft is supported on both sides. There is plenty of weld around the C, with a beefy gusset up the back.

I reinforced my mitered connection with some plates, but am not in love with how it looks now.

Last part Im waiting for is the $6 trailer chain loop for the underside of the hitch before I burn it all in. 2K black epoxy primer and some black top coat after that.

FWIW, with time, steel prices and cost of parts to do it this way, I probably should have just bought one - however even though it is taking much longer than expected doing everything with an angle grinder and by hand (since I dont have access to a waterjet anymore at my current job) this has been a fun project and Im enjoying it.

 

[archie73]

I used gas hood struts from the junkyard on mine and highly recommend them. Smooth swing out and holds a 35” tire from moving freely even on an angle. Nice build.

 

[ryanwk628]

figured out a wiper arm that worked. Anco 1402. Went with the shorter adjustable one after taking some measurements. Amazon says the next size up is correct but it would be too long. Still had to cut 1/2” off the back to clear the lower weather strip. I am using these with the Trico Classic 12

The factory nut won’t work, so I had to use their adaptor. The tiny jam nut got replaced with a JIS M6 which still fit fine.

 

[ryanwk628]

Got tired of the polished aluminum diamond plate the PO put on to cover rust. I’m not getting rid of them or investing in this tub (aqualu is the plan) but in the meantime painting them will work and I needed to do it before I mount the tire carrier.

I taped it up and masked it. Scuffed the entire surface with scotch brite, then etched it with this Zep degreaser which is supposed to work better than oven cleaner for etching AL. I rinsed it well and dried it with compressed air and a quick blast with my heat gun. All before a couple coats of etching primer

Final paint was with a a spray can that I was able to order in T451 Coronado beige. It seemed close enough. Topped that with some clear, but didn’t bury it because of the chalky fade on other parts of the truck

I’m happy with it. Put the lights and doors back on last night. Back to the tire carrier!

 

[ryanwk628]

The 2014 Napa starting battery finally quit holding charge, so I got it a fresh juice box. I went with interstate because that’s what the local service shop on my way home carries and the parts stores would mostly be closed by the time I got out of work. It looks to be the same battery as the die hard. Also considered the Napa/o'rilley battery made by East Penn but I wouldn’t be able to get it until Saturday

Online it said 34 was the correct size, but it seems small, both in height and length. I had to space it up with some material I had. What size should I have gotten? I didn’t see what my old one was anywhere on it. I think it must have been a 27

 

[firemanj92]

Try battery group size 24 or 27

 

[ryanwk628]

Got done with the welding on the tire carrier last night. Added a mount for a small garden shovel which tucks nicely behind the tire. The carrier has a handle to grab, a pin oriented up and down to keep it from swinging, a wedged UHMW spacer and latch to keep it restrained vertically without putting the load into the hinge when closed. I made a bumper/stopper that sets the closed position softly as it swings shut.

It has some pretty welds and some not so pretty welds, but I it’s got more than it needs either way. Time for paint!

 

[ryanwk628]

Try battery group size 24 or 27

Thanks! I believe my old starting battery was a 27, but Ive been doing some research and am not seeing much in the way of AGM offerings from the major retailers in those sizes unless they are dedicated "house" batteries (low CCA.) I want the AGM reserve with the 8274, but to still have over 700 cold cranking amps to start it. I also tried to avoid ordering something online, because that just makes returns and exchanges a PITA.

I think Im just going to run it, but will keep an eye out for those sizes when Im looking for my next battery. Thanks again!

 

[ryanwk628]

Finished my tire carrier build. Mounted the shovel with a quick fist clamp and a tab with an M8 turned into a stud and a wing nut.

Painted it with 2k black primer and black appliance enamel. Took all day to dry.

This hinge is strong. I probably had no need for both a pin and a clamp to keep it closed or the spacer to take up slop, there is none. This can easily support the weight.

I really like the way the tire mount came out, very beefy. It’s over built.

I added some reflective tape and mounted it up with heavy duty JIS hardware. It’s all metric, either socket heads or JIS.

The bottle opener lined up perfectly with the old bumper holes

 

[ryanwk628]

No Labor Day Parade this year. One of my neighbors organized a tractor show just so we would have something and I took my 40 up there

 

[ryanwk628]

Heater hose sprung a leak while driving. All over my wife’s feet. Was close to the hardware store so I made a patch then got it home where I replaced both with some new Gates hose. Something I was planning to do this winter along with some other projects (block valve and heater work) but necessity pushed it to the top of the list.

Now on my way back to the hardware store to clean up my mess!

 

[ryanwk628]

Suspension work finally happening this week. After a lot of research I went with Skyjacker springs, Bilsteins 5100s in the front and KYBs in the rear. Shocks were on Amazon, springs from Skyjacker, free shipping all around.

The reasons I am pulling the 4" Rough Country lift is because of the awful shackle angles and its just taller than it needs to be, essentially line to line with my garage door. At the start of this thread there is a photo of how bad my rear shackle angles are, just totally over arched. There is also a thread of me asking questions on them and awful advice from Rough Country. They could easily swing the wrong way and basic force vectors would suggest the shackle is more in compression when I hit a bump, transferring the load into the truck, than swinging as it should. The fronts are rock hard but the geometry is much better. I read the shocks I have provide are very firm, which they dont need to be. (edit: they are)

Skyjacker is made in the USA and this article had some great photos of them installed. Maybe thats too much shackle angle but oh well, at least it is not going to invert. (mine did not have that much angle, and should break in nicely) Their customer service has been great, both via Facebook messenger and when Ive called them.

On the shocks, this quote from Downey was the basis for my thinking.

Dave (DSB345), I recommend something very velocity sensitive (like Bilsteins) for the front, and something very soft for the rear (like Doetsch-Tech MV-12's, that are no longer available). Nothing is happening at your rear end, no engine weight/no pounding, so the softer the shock the better the ride on and off road.

I went with the recommended Bilsteins in the front and some replacement rear shocks by asking KYB what they had that was the same but longer compared to the stock length shock. I think they are from a T100. Cheap and made in Japan. My 1970 still has the shock bolts on the axle so I may end up getting skid plates with shock bolts... or not. We will find out.

Dimensions - KYB Americas - https://www.kyb.com/resources/technical-information/dimensions/
343403 25.11 14.96 10.15 X X - E1 E1
344090 22.95 14.09 8.86 X - - E1 E1

Same ends with more stroke, should work fine for my 2.5" lift in the rear.

My goal has been a better ride, and for that reason I considered going back to rubber bushings, but since I wanted to reuse the greaseable hardware, I decided to look into the differences in Poly. Turns out Energy suspensions are the hardest and since this is not a track car, I dont need to err on the side of more road feel.

Since these came Monday instead of Friday last week, I did not get them installed last weekend. I got tired of looking at them and took them apart to paint and lube them up. I will say it looks like they were assembled and then painted, probably not unique to skyjacker based on some other threads.

More to come