1970 bad engine (1 Viewer)

[Post Falls FJ40]

Stop don’t use sandpaper. Looks like your into professional help on this one. Cant tell how+deep you are by the vid. I think .025 is the most you can go when you have one turned. Someone fact check me on that..

You have a good competent machine shop close by? I/we used NAPA years ago todo SBC’s not sure they provide that service in house.


@cruisermatt might be able to look (eyeball) at that vid/pic with a calibrated eye and give you some feedback on the viability of saving your crank, or point you to a replacement…

Can I pull the rod out from here or do I need to take the engine out? Being newer at this I'm thinking the machine shop will want just the rod and not the whole motor

 

[Chungas Revenge]

its the journals on the crank shaft that is your main concern. Without measuring the diameter of your journal and your rods you don’t know if it’s been ground before. Sometimes a shop will mark (stamp) a rod if it requires an oversized bearing ex: .010-.025. I can’t tell by a vid just by looking and make a call. You defiantly dont want to go near it with sand paper for a whole bunch of reasons. You can get an idea by examining the fournals for smoothness etc etc, but without measuring you just won’t know.

Do you know anyone in your neck of the woods who has any engine rebuild experience? Just to have them look see at the condition your engines bottom end…

 

[Post Falls FJ40]

its the journals on the crank shaft that is your main concern. Without measuring the diameter of your journal and your rods you don’t know if it’s been ground before. Sometimes a shop will mark (stamp) a rod if it requires an oversized bearing ex: .010-.025. I can’t tell by a vid just by looking and make a call. You defiantly dont want to go near it with sand paper for a whole bunch of reasons. You can get an idea by examining the fournals for smoothness etc etc, but without measuring you just won’t know.

Do you know anyone in your neck of the woods who has any engine rebuild experience? Just to have them look see at the condition your engines bottom end…

I might know someone, thanks for this info, I'll make some calls.

 

[Skreddy]

The head needs to come off to pull the piston/rod. If it needs resized on the rod, it’s better to find a different good, used one so all 6 remain the same spec. But ya, that crank needs to come out.
On the bright side, you’ll get a good look at what kind of shape your clutch is in….

 

[45Dougal]

Here is what I found, all looked ok and were tight except #1, took it apart, see below. I've seen some videos of these being cleaned, sanded with 400 or so and put back together, anyone ever done that?

View attachment 3436673

View attachment 3436674

Here is what I found, all looked ok and were tight except #1, took it apart, see below. I've seen some videos of these being cleaned, sanded with 400 or so and put back together, anyone ever done that?

View attachment 3436673

View attachment 3436674

Good job getting it apart.
Maybe the sand paper is what a PO did in order to keep running, but not to be recommended!

Hard to see in the pics - is the crankshaft journal actually scored, or does it just have deposits of the bearing material left behind on it?

 

[Post Falls FJ40]

Good job getting it apart.
Maybe the sand paper is what a PO did in order to keep running, but not to be recommended!

Hard to see in the pics - is the crankshaft journal actually scored, or does it just have deposits of the bearing material left behind on it?

Thanks 45Dougal, I'm a newbie so learning everyday I don't think it's scored but I'll confirm as I'm cleaning up a bit, the inside from what I can see might have already been rebuilt at some pint, gaskets were new and the pistons look perfect, if I can't get anyone here locally to look at it, I might just pull it and learn to rebuild it over the winter. Should be fun but I bet take 4 times longer then someone who's done it before..

 

[67azcruizr]

look for a cheap F.5 to replace your current F. all accessories will transfer and you can drop the pan on the F.5 prior to install and replace the mains and rod bearings.

its a better oiler and a slight but good upgrade. swapping to a V8 would be unnecessary in my humble opinion and may be a pivotal point that dissuades you from completing and driving the FJ ever again, something I've seen too many times.

good luck....................................,

and just "to throw it out there", the Toyota petrol inline 6 cylinder F engines are tractor engines that any competent machine shop could handle easily, but I would not waste time on oversized or compression mods other than balancing and line bore

 

[Post Falls FJ40]

look for a cheap F.5 to replace your current F. all accessories will transfer and you can drop the pan on the F.5 prior to install and replace the mains and rod bearings.

its a better oiler and a slight but good upgrade. swapping to a V8 would be unnecessary in my humble opinion and may be a pivotal point that dissuades you from completing and driving the FJ ever again, something I've seen too many times.

good luck....................................,

and just "to throw it out there", the Toyota petrol inline 6 cylinder F engines are tractor engines that any competent machine shop could handle easily, but I would not waste time on oversized or compression mods other than balancing and line bore

Any idea what parts I'll struggle to find if I do this rebuild myself? I've read people saying the 1F parts are getting hard to find.

 

[45Dougal]

Thanks 45Dougal, I'm a newbie so learning everyday I don't think it's scored but I'll confirm as I'm cleaning up a bit, the inside from what I can see might have already been rebuilt at some pint, gaskets were new and the pistons look perfect, if I can't get anyone here locally to look at it, I might just pull it and learn to rebuild it over the winter. Should be fun but I bet take 4 times longer then someone who's done it before..

You'll probably have 4 times as much focus on getting it right too.

Hard to find? Bah. Try finding parts for the 1H diesel engine...

 

[Post Falls FJ40]

You'll probably have 4 times as much focus on getting it right too.

Hard to find? Bah. Try finding parts for the 1H diesel engine...

Yikes, I've heard people have to drive to Canada sometime to get them, good thing it's only 60 miles from me here.. Any idea what a machine shop would charge to rebuild one of these? Just curious

 

[pb4ugo]

You need to pull the engine. You might be able to look on the back of the Bearing shell and see if it's marked std, .010 or some other digits. That would be an indication if the crank has been machined.
The engine has to come apart. All that bearing material has been circulated thru the engine. Once it's apart you'll be able to tell what you need and what's good. It may need minimal work. Maybe not. The head is probably ok.

 

[45Dougal]

Yikes, I've heard people have to drive to Canada sometime to get them, good thing it's only 60 miles from me here.. Any idea what a machine shop would charge to rebuild one of these? Just curious

No idea, but it looks like you need only one journal grinding, which I'd expect to be an hour or two of work including setup, plus maybe the rod if its worth it.
Getting the engine out, and then crankshaft out of the engine will be most of the work.

 

[Skreddy]

And you know your boys will love seeing the guys of that engine spread out! I’m here if you need any assistance.

 

[Post Falls FJ40]

You need to pull the engine. You might be able to look on the back of the Bearing shell and see if it's marked std, .010 or some other digits. That would be an indication if the crank has been machined.
The engine has to come apart. All that bearing material has been circulated thru the engine. Once it's apart you'll be able to tell what you need and what's good. It may need minimal work. Maybe not. The head is probably ok.

And you know your boys will love seeing the guys of that engine spread out! I’m here if you need any assistance.

Thanks again Skreddy for your help, learned a ton after what you showed me... they are super excited to give it a shot

 

[45Dougal]

Looks like your not too distant neighbour has similar issues..

Where to buy crank bearings?

Anyone know of a good source for crankshaft bearings? Motor is a 5/73 1F. They keep getting put on back order. I'm hoping someone can point me to some that are in stock. Thank you!

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[charliemeyer007]

Depends on shops in your area. Flame spray build up and turned back to stock could be an option. I wanted to do a hand built 283 with a Toy 4 speed mated to the 3 sp transfer case. Have the advance adapter sbc to Toy 4 and the 4 sp, 3sp's transfer but lost the 283. A friend did the 383 conversion

 

[Post Falls FJ40]

You need to pull the engine. You might be able to look on the back of the Bearing shell and see if it's marked std, .010 or some other digits. That would be an indication if the crank has been machined.
The engine has to come apart. All that bearing material has been circulated thru the engine. Once it's apart you'll be able to tell what you need and what's good. It may need minimal work. Maybe not. The head is probably ok.

If we took just the head to a machine shop can they

Looks like your not too distant neighbour has similar issues..

Where to buy crank bearings?

Anyone know of a good source for crankshaft bearings? Motor is a 5/73 1F. They keep getting put on back order. I'm hoping someone can point me to some that are in stock. Thank you!

forum.ih8mud.com

Interesting, I found a machine shop here that actually specializes in these so I'm going to pull it and see what he says, if it's all in good shape I'm going to rebuild it myself, fingers crossed

 

[ryanwk628]

Did you see this?
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sw-colorado-72-engine-transmission-transfer-case-complete.1322495/

 

[Post Falls FJ40]

Did you see this?
For Sale - SW Colorado. 72 engine, transmission, transfer case, complete - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sw-colorado-72-engine-transmission-transfer-case-complete.1322495/

I didn't, thanks for sharing!!

 

[Post Falls FJ40]

Morning all,
So I was able to get a machine shop here locally to rebuild the 1F, he's done a number of these over the years. I have it back installed and finishing up, however I have a few questions.
1. I'm not 100% sure where I took the oil temperature sensor off from and so can't find where it goes back?
2. There are two openings on the top of the engine, 1 for the coolant return from the heater and the other I think for the water temp sensor, does it matter what one I use for those?
3. I haven't installed the fuel pump back in yet as I needed to buy a spring, anything there I need to worry about once I have that?
4. Once I have this all back in place, is there a safe procedure I should follow for starting the first time?

Thanks for the help, learned a ton over the past 3 months