Builds Project Pikachu: 1977 FJ40 (6 Viewers)

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I'd try to stick with the project at hand. If the top plate is leaking, clean the offending location or the whole thing b4 opening it up and address the leak if you can. I wouldn't pull it, unless I had a problem or couldn't figure out a away to stop the leak.
 
Stuff is happening.

So I believe the top plate gasket on my transfer case has been the cause of the main gear oil leak I've had for years, so I want to remove it and put a new gasket in while I've got the transmission cover off. Any recommendations on which gasket to go with? OEM? FelPro? High Tack sealant? The part is gasket #8 circled in red.
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And current status. It's tempting to yank this dirty combo out and clean/rebuild it, but it just doesn't need it. Gotta know where to draw the line and avoid mission creep.

Citristrip does a heck of a job, by the way. I've only done the front upper floorboards so far. Spent most of the time removing parts.
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Good self control!

The amount of times I've attempted to do something simple, then next minute half the car is in pieces and it's off the road for weeks is ridiculous.
Also once it's apart spending 3 hours on Amayama staring at diagrams buying as many parts as I can to save on postage.

Just hit it with a can of degreaser and try and forget about it!
 
Good self control!

The amount of times I've attempted to do something simple, then next minute half the car is in pieces and it's off the road for weeks is ridiculous.
Also once it's apart spending 3 hours on Amayama staring at diagrams buying as many parts as I can to save on postage.

Just hit it with a can of degreaser and try and forget about it!
Spot on. There's already lots of bits and pieces that I'm replacing just to get the firewall cleaned up (new grommets, kick vent springs and seals, heater parts, new bolts, etc.), so I'll be tickled pink if I can tighten up a couple of leaking seals on the t-case and call it good.

It's a big job. When I get to the rear tub, the top, roll bar, and jump seats all have to come out.

But it's the time of year to get it done. Not much FJ40 driving when the roads are salty. And I get to enjoy this view.
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So I’m tackling various cleanup and improvement tasks while the interior is torn down. While I’ve got the coolant partially drained down since the heater is out, I’m wondering about swapping out the Champion aluminum radiator with OEM copper. Thoughts on performance difference?
 
So I’m tackling various cleanup and improvement tasks while the interior is torn down. While I’ve got the coolant partially drained down since the heater is out, I’m wondering about swapping out the Champion aluminum radiator with OEM copper. Thoughts on performance difference?
I’ve got a champion and I’m not a fan of the shiny aluminum. I may paint it black like @greenEFSI did to his.
 
Wow. That looks great!

I still wonder about the performance difference between OEM and the aluminum one.
I’m pretty familiar with your summer temps in that area of Colorado. If you’re already doing fine with the aluminum radiator when climbing hills in the summer at your altitude, I doubt an OEM radiator will be an improvement. Basically, I’m agreeing with @wngrog it just takes me more words to do so.
 
I’m pretty familiar with your summer temps in that area of Colorado. If you’re already doing fine with the aluminum radiator when climbing hills in the summer at your altitude, I doubt an OEM radiator will be an improvement. Basically, I’m agreeing with @wngrog it just takes me more words to do so.
It did run warm on a couple of mountain passes when it was fully loaded last year, which got me thinking.

I haven’t replicated the issue since I replaced the fan clutch, but I wonder about copper vs. aluminum in this instance.
 
Hard to know the answer to your question without a side by side comparison on the same rig, but I would ask the guys down at Redline. They may have some insight especially since they’re familiar with your area. I will say my OEM T-Rad unit from CR looks really nice, performs well and it’s really not that expensive in the end.
 
Custom aluminum > oem copper > cheap aluminum > bad shape oem

I’m guessing fixing your fan clutch could have solved the issues by far and a stock engine should be fine with a decent aluminum radiator or oem style.

I was in the same boat 2 years ago with a failing OEM radiator. I had reservations about cheapish $300ish aluminum radiators for a couple reasons. (Fit/finish, brackets weak, no real testing)
OEM doesn’t exist for a BJ74 and Ron Davis quoted me $1k plus to start.

I found a local shop and it was $700 for a 4 core high efficiency copper radiator using my end tanks. So far has worked great, looks oem and should last a long time.


Long story but unless you hate the look of aluminum, I’d keep it as it seems the champions are decent. The paint above definitely looks better on it. I do like the old school radiator looks though.
 

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