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- #22
Of course, found more issues. While disassembling the front end, found the center pivot is barely attached now. Looks like during the SR install, they removed all but one of the rivets that hold it on. Not sure what the intention was here.
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- #23
Got the center arm apart. Including removing the remnants of the 1 and a half rivets that were holding it to the frame. Now to order a rebuild kit and get it reinstalled. Since @wngrog bolted his back in Builds - 1967 FJ45 LPBlue - Tilda Bogue Service Station - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1967-fj45-lpblue-tilda-bogue-service-station.1304086/post-14837746
I feel pretty confident this will work for me too.
I feel pretty confident this will work for me too.
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- #24
Got the arm back together. Cleaned up all the surface rust, figured out how to put it back together, etc.
Rather than pay hundreds of dollars for a few parts I decided to reuse everything other than the felt and the cotter pins.
The felt pieces bugged me. I tried 2 different hardware stores and then remembered that Walmart sells craft supplies. For a measly 32 cents I bought a sheet of felt and cut out some rounds of felt. Had to use 6 layers for the small end and 4 on the large end. I just stacked them.
My technical and precise method of marking the cutouts: some chalk on the metal collars that hold the felt.
Rather than pay hundreds of dollars for a few parts I decided to reuse everything other than the felt and the cotter pins.
The felt pieces bugged me. I tried 2 different hardware stores and then remembered that Walmart sells craft supplies. For a measly 32 cents I bought a sheet of felt and cut out some rounds of felt. Had to use 6 layers for the small end and 4 on the large end. I just stacked them.
My technical and precise method of marking the cutouts: some chalk on the metal collars that hold the felt.
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- #25
Worked great. Put it all together and bolted it back on the frame.
Some grade 8.8 metric hardware and it's good to go. Glad to have something specific I can point to as a "completed" sub-project on the white board. Gives me some motivation!
Some grade 8.8 metric hardware and it's good to go. Glad to have something specific I can point to as a "completed" sub-project on the white board. Gives me some motivation!
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- #28
LOL OK.
Let's see
After trying to get the new spring hardware and assorted doodads welded up @JackA and I realized we needed to take the 40 over to his house and do the work. I told him where to weld the spring hanger, which was about 6" too far back.
So, we trailered it (well, Jack trailered it) over to his house. We removed our mistake, and got to work.
After all day cutting, grinding, welding, measuring over and over, welding some more, grinding some more, etc. we finished the spring install. All springs, shackles, u-bolt flip from Dave Gore, bushings, etc all done we brought it back to my house.
HUGE thanks to Jack in helping me get this done!
Pics to follow.
In our next episodes, we discover fuel line adapters, more reasons why the 67 is to be avoided for restoration, installing shocks, obtaining 67 specific seats, etc.
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- #31
That monstrous chunk of iron, aka "trailer hitch" is removed... mostly. I bought one of those spendy Sawzall metal cutting blades and it helped a lot. There's still more to remove but for now it's good enough
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- #32
Then the fun began. Supposedly the clutch and brake master cylinder is the same on the older 40s. However mine wasn't. I got a great deal on a slave cylinder, new hose, and master cylinder. Went to install it. And the hard line going I to the master cylinder is too big.
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- #33
OK. Looked around and found a couple of vendors that sell a kit that updates the older clutch hydraulics. So that's on the way. In the mean time, I worked on getting the steering parts redone.
From pitman arm to steering arm on frame: done
After lots of banging, lots of PB Blaster, etc finally got all the TRE's off the rods. Then realized this one was way too far gone (it's bent 2 different ways) got another one.
So I kept going, then did this.
From pitman arm to steering arm on frame: done
After lots of banging, lots of PB Blaster, etc finally got all the TRE's off the rods. Then realized this one was way too far gone (it's bent 2 different ways) got another one.
So I kept going, then did this.
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- #34
But hey, the seats I found are here, and they look really nice. I'm debating whether to restore the frames. Looking forward to whe the project is at the point I can install the seats!
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- #35
While I'm waiting on parts to fix my screwup and general lack of planning, I'm doing some wiring (well, eventually ALL the wiring). Again, previous owners use whatever wire is at hand I guess. So I'm going one wire at a time which works well for me, if I rip out the harness it will end up taking me much longer to complete the build.
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- #36
The big box from ManAFre / BTB arrived today. Awesome! Fingers crossed I can get the TRE's installed and get her steering on her own again. Which will mark the completion of 2 major milestones, the suspension and the steering!
That is the slave cylinder hard line. The internals are basically the same but the slave line is bigger. Here's my journey: PNW 67 Patina Blue - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/pnw-67-patina-blue.1289865/page-2#post-14557401
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- #38
Yes it is. Hey I like what you did with the rebuild. Maybe I should have gone that way. Oh well.
It looks like you've been very busy. Good work. I noticed in post #30, it appears your right frt bump stop is very close to the spring plate and wont allow the suspension to flex much, if at all . It will probably cause a rougher ride and no or minimal flex than you are wanting.