KISS Drawers (Keep It Simple Storage) For 100 Series (3 Viewers)

[SARCOM]

I'm planning on talking with a buddy on Saturday who has essentially dedicated his life to woodworking. Going to ask him what the best finish is for how I plan to use it. I want to keep as much of the wood uncovered as possible and I'll be in the same boat with a wet/dirty dog, skis, golf bags, bike gear and so forth. My initial though is to finish all of the wood with an oil/wax penetrating type finish and then put a carpet over it similar to the carpet @reddog90 shows in the picture above. I'm not sure how I'll attach it yet. Baltic birch is beautiful so I hate to cover it up and I'd rather just have it patina over the years.

I used Ultimate Spar Urethane Water Based

I was very happy with the results however it’s only been a few weeks

I used a piece of carpet scrap and had the edges bound so they have a cleaner look…. Plus the Dogs leave it alone and the weight on the edge helps keep the carpet in place

Enjoy the units

 

[linuxgod]

I'm planning on talking with a buddy on Saturday who has essentially dedicated his life to woodworking. Going to ask him what the best finish is for how I plan to use it. I want to keep as much of the wood uncovered as possible and I'll be in the same boat with a wet/dirty dog, skis, golf bags, bike gear and so forth. My initial though is to finish all of the wood with an oil/wax penetrating type finish and then put a carpet over it similar to the carpet @reddog90 shows in the picture above. I'm not sure how I'll attach it yet. Baltic birch is beautiful so I hate to cover it up and I'd rather just have it patina over the years.

I applied clear polyurethane to any exposed surfaces (bottom and inside of the cabinet and all parts of the drawer). Everything I covered in carpet just got some paint-on glue when I applied the carpet. A year later and so far no issues, no swelling/drawer sticking, etc.

 

[reddog90]

@77CruiserDog I am just building a base plate for the back of my 60 but this thread has been very helpful for ideas. Maybe I should have poly'd the wood like @linuxgod, but I primed and painted it with stuff I already had laying around. I ended up getting a 6x8 rug of the same carpet I linked above at lowes since it was cheaper than buying by the foot on the big roll, and I am going to glue it down with 3m hi strength 90 spray. I just have a bunch of L track and a fridge slide, but will probably build a single drawer to add next to the slide next year. Everything bolts down with t nuts, and the plate bolts to the floor using rivnuts.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I'm planning on talking with a buddy on Saturday who has essentially dedicated his life to woodworking. Going to ask him what the best finish is for how I plan to use it. I want to keep as much of the wood uncovered as possible and I'll be in the same boat with a wet/dirty dog, skis, golf bags, bike gear and so forth. My initial though is to finish all of the wood with an oil/wax penetrating type finish and then put a carpet over it similar to the carpet @reddog90 shows in the picture above. I'm not sure how I'll attach it yet. Baltic birch is beautiful so I hate to cover it up and I'd rather just have it patina over the years.

I finished mine with black exterior paint from Lowes. I rolled it on over primer after sanding to 220 with a ROS. I painted the outside of the case and drawer fronts. I finished the drawers in clear shellac, because it cheap, durable, and easy to reapply. I kept the drawer interiors bright this way. The inside of the drawers got some cheap tool box liner and a second layer marine carpet. I decide not to glue these in. It’s easy to clean this way and will be easy to replace if it gets ruined.

Laying out carpet, but shot shows case painted. Two coats and it was good to go. I removed wing supports and hardware, I taped the aluminum bits. I didn’t paint before assembling since LSO says it may make fitting too tight.

test fit before carpet. You can see the drawers are bright.

Carpet edge is aluminum L track from lowes.

It’s easy to touch up, I just use a black paint pen, or a sharpie.

Paint code.

 

[77CruiserDog]

I finished mine with black exterior paint from Lowes. I rolled it on over primer after sanding to 220 with a ROS. I painted the outside of the case and drawer fronts. I finished the drawers in clear shellac, because it cheap, durable, and easy to reapply. I kept the drawer interiors bright this way. The inside of the drawers got some cheap tool box liner and a second layer marine carpet. I decide not to glue these in. It’s easy to clean this way and will be easy to replace if it gets ruined.
View attachment 3029712
Laying out carpet, but shot shows case painted. Two coats and it was good to go. I removed wing supports and hardware, I taped the aluminum bits. I didn’t paint before assembling since LSO says it may make fitting too tight.
View attachment 3029704test fit before carpet. You can see the drawers are bright.
View attachment 3029707
Carpet edge is aluminum L track from lowes.

View attachment 3029710
It’s easy to touch up, I just use a black paint pen, or a sharpie.
View attachment 3029711
Paint code.

That looks really good!!

 

[kwon-offroad]

I finished mine with black exterior paint from Lowes. I rolled it on over primer after sanding to 220 with a ROS. I painted the outside of the case and drawer fronts. I finished the drawers in clear shellac, because it cheap, durable, and easy to reapply. I kept the drawer interiors bright this way. The inside of the drawers got some cheap tool box liner and a second layer marine carpet. I decide not to glue these in. It’s easy to clean this way and will be easy to replace if it gets ruined.
View attachment 3029712
Laying out carpet, but shot shows case painted. Two coats and it was good to go. I removed wing supports and hardware, I taped the aluminum bits. I didn’t paint before assembling since LSO says it may make fitting too tight.
View attachment 3029704test fit before carpet. You can see the drawers are bright.
View attachment 3029707
Carpet edge is aluminum L track from lowes.

View attachment 3029710
It’s easy to touch up, I just use a black paint pen, or a sharpie.
View attachment 3029711
Paint code.

Very nice.
Maybe I missed it but how do you have your slides set up? Or are you using HDPE or similar?

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

That looks really good!!

Thanks, it turned out better than I hoped for and had shrugged off two kids and a dog with ease. I love my LSO drawers. So worth the wait.

Very nice.
Maybe I missed it but how do you have your slides set up? Or are you using HDPE or similar?

Cheers. Yep, standard LSO “Ultra-Wear Resistant Ultra-High Molecular Weight (UWRUHMW) slides”.

 

[kwon-offroad]

Thanks, it turned out better than I hoped for and had shrugged off two kids and a dog with ease. I love my LSO drawers. So worth the wait.

Cheers. Yep, standard LSO “Ultra-Wear Resistant Ultra-High Molecular Weight (UWRUHMW) slides”.

Always impressed with what mudders can do. i don't need drawers, really. Built a slide system with side racking which is plenty enough to suit my needs. These full on 'cabinet' systems are superb tho.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Always impressed with what mudders can do. i don't need drawers, really. Built a slide system with side racking which is plenty enough to suit my needs. These full on 'cabinet' systems are superb tho.

Credit goes to LSO for a great design that lets you built to suit. Honestly I can’t begin to imagine how hard is is to run a business that caters to us LC folks—we’re a demanding bunch.

 

[linuxgod]

UHMW works moderately well, but if you're going to load your drawers with 150-200# of stuff I highly recommend using heavy duty metal drawer slides. It takes a lot of muscle to open and close mine with UHMW slides, but I am most definitely in the 100#+ category.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

UHMW works moderately well, but if you're going to load your drawers with 150-200# of stuff I highly recommend using heavy duty metal drawer slides. It takes a lot of muscle to open and close mine with UHMW slides, but I am most definitely in the 100#+ category.

^^ I think this is good advice.

I have found that with mine, using some paste furniture wax on the bottom of the drawers where they meet the slides work fine for my needs and I probably won't ever bother with a slide retrofit. I think my drawer with recovery, and tools is certainly in the 100 lb. range. For me it's not going to be ever worth the expense or the trouble to change the drawer width and rebuild. Making the bottoms slick with wax isn't very difficult or time consuming, but I am not opening my drawers on a daily basis. I use them multiple times a day on a trip in the rig, but not everyday. If my rig say daily expedition use for long periods of time, or was a field work vehicle that used these everyday I suspect my opinion would be different.

All this being said, I do find that one compromise the UHMW slide system has is that the drawer naturally has some up down play when extended. I need to be conscious that I don't smash the drawer shut and have the bottom edge of the drawer front drag on the truck trim in front of the tailgate. I worry I will splinter off the bottom edge at some point. However, making a new drawer face is within my cabinet making skill set and tool setup. Since I painted mine the plywood type dosent even have to match (GL getting baltic birch in 2022)

I realize im posting 80 series perspectives/problems in the 100 series space, apologies--but this is the LSO drawer thread with the best info.

 

[linuxgod]

^^ I think this is good advice.

I have found that with mine, using some paste furniture wax on the bottom of the drawers where they meet the slides work fine for my needs and I probably won't ever bother with a slide retrofit. I think my drawer with recovery, and tools is certainly in the 100 lb. range. For me it's not going to be ever worth the expense or the trouble to change the drawer width and rebuild. Making the bottoms slick with wax isn't very difficult or time consuming, but I am not opening my drawers on a daily basis. I use them multiple times a day on a trip in the rig, but not everyday. If my rig say daily expedition use for long periods of time, or was a field work vehicle that used these everyday I suspect my opinion would be different.

All this being said, I do find that one compromise the UHMW slide system has is that the drawer naturally has some up down play when extended. I need to be conscious that I don't smash the drawer shut and have the bottom edge of the drawer front drag on the truck trim in front of the tailgate. I worry I will splinter off the bottom edge at some point. However, making a new drawer face is within my cabinet making skill set and tool setup. Since I painted mine the plywood type dosent even have to match (GL getting baltic birch in 2022)

I realize im posting 80 series perspectives/problems in the 100 series space, apologies--but this is the LSO drawer thread with the best info.

I actually have 1/4" UHMW acting as the slides on the top and bottom rails, but also some UHMW tape I used on the drawer itself. It's still a good challenge to move.

When I built my drawer (mine was custom) I accounted for that "slop". The sides have a very small gap maybe 1/8" so there's not much even as it slides out. To help keep the drawer from tipping I made the back panel of the (inner) drawer taller in the middle than on the edges, so if the drawer starts to lean forward when you pull it out the back of it will naturally press up against the top of the drawer box. If that's not clear let me know and I can post pics

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I actually have 1/4" UHMW acting as the slides on the top and bottom rails, but also some UHMW tape I used on the drawer itself. It's still a good challenge to move.

When I built my drawer (mine was custom) I accounted for that "slop". The sides have a very small gap maybe 1/8" so there's not much even as it slides out. To help keep the drawer from tipping I made the back panel of the (inner) drawer taller in the middle than on the edges, so if the drawer starts to lean forward when you pull it out the back of it will naturally press up against the top of the drawer box. If that's not clear let me know and I can post pics

Thanks Geoff--Great tips! How has the UHMW tape held up? Issues with adhesives? That seems like it would be a great "Upgrade" for many LSO drawer folks.

 

[linuxgod]

Thanks Geoff--Great tips! How has the UHMW tape held up? Issues with adhesives? That seems like it would be a great "Upgrade" for many LSO drawer folks.

It's held up fine, a year in. I've got some extra I keep in my toolbox now for future use.

 

[nnnnnate]

Those of you using carpet on these drawers, how is it holding up? Did you use marine carpet, indoor/outdoor carpet, or speaker carpet? Speaker carpet seems easy to find on amazon, just not sure how it holds up long term in this type of application. The indoor/outdoor carpet available at my lowes seems like it has a high pile height and I was planning on adding a fridge slide and sections of L track, so I'm looking for something thin but durable. Not sure if sandwiching a carpet with this pile height between L track and plywood is secure. But I tend to overthink things.

@sarfmobile @SurfSwitch @JonD @CutterH @Thingfisher @FxFormat @Ayune @nnnnnate @Dozer18 @KINGER @Rolocado

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Select-Elements-Home-Office-Crestline-12-ft-Needlebond-Granite-Interior-Exterior-Carpet/1000411979

I didn't apply my carpet directly to the drawer tops. I have some tie down track so I used additional plywood between the track to bring the height up and provide a flat working height. My carpet still is great. Its looking a little dirty from spilled drinks and just general grime that gets thrown back there but its still great. I set mine up like I did thinking that the carpet and plywood I applied it to would be considered a wear item. When it got nasty or ripped or whatever I'd just pull it and replace it. Its been a long while though and I haven't needed to do that. I applied the carpet with the spray adhesive and staples and its still good to go.

I also have a fridge and slide and there have been no problems there either. I actually installed the wood version of nutserts in the bottom of the carpeted ply so I could remove the slide when it wasn't needed and I wouldn't need to spend a bunch of time ripping the drawers apart to get to the nuts/bolts.

 

[reddog90]

Lots of ideas pulled from this thread. 3/4" sanded ply, ecorug from lowes attached with 3M hi strength 90 and staples. L track and caps mounted with 1/4x20x9/16 t nuts. Deck attaches to truck with 4 bolts using rivnuts. Fridge cord kept tidy with a cable chain. A lot of this could be implemented with reef drawers.

 

[77CruiserDog]

Lots of ideas pulled from this thread. 3/4" sanded ply, ecorug from lowes attached with 3M hi strength 90 and staples. L track and caps mounted with 1/4x20x9/16 t nuts. Deck attaches to truck with 4 bolts using rivnuts. Fridge cord kept tidy with a cable chain. A lot of this could be implemented with reef drawers.

That looks really good!!

 

[GTV]

@cruzerDave

I absolutely love having a cutting board in my Reef drawers but it bugged me that the finger pull was only cut on one side. Having it on both sides would effectively double the useable area, not only being able to flip it top to bottom but front to back as well. Then one day I accidentally put in in backwards and since everything fits so millimeter perfect it was a real b!tch to get back out! Luckily my uncle has all the woodworking tools so with a router we made a template and just transferred it to the other side. A fresh coat of mineral oil and I'm back in business. Easy peasy.

IMO there is no reason why they shouldn't come this way.

 

[ORCruiserMatt]

Finished my set a few weeks ago... Went together great and I'm digging the setup. Really pleased with the carpet match, too.

 

[bajaguy949]

Love my drawers as well. Simple yet so nice and effective. Digging the high tide setup as I normally leave the driver side third row seat in for day to day driving in case I need to shove another body back there.