Builds "Scout" the 1977 FJ40 (2 Viewers)

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77CruiserDog

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Feb 6, 2019
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897
Location
Seattle
One thing lead to another and I ended up finding a partially restored (running and driving) 1977 FJ40 just a few hours away in Portland. The guy wanted a bit too much but I agreed to drive down and take a look at it. As soon as he opened the garage, I knew I had to go home with it.

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The PO and I had talked about the history he knew and what had been done to it, everything checked out after a 15 minute inspection so I took it for a drive. It ran, but not well.

I drove it for a few miles to make sure all the basics worked, all gears, 4x4 and so forth. It checked out, so I paid the man and headed back to Seattle.

On the drive home, we encountered some weather. For the last 2 hours of the drive it snowed so hard the wipers had a hard time keeping up. I didn't mind because the speed of the freeway finally slowed to a more FJ40 friendly speed of 50mph.

After 6 hours (2 hours longer than it should have taken) I park it safely in the garage and contemplate what I've just done. The entire inside was soaking wet from the many jump seat bolt holes in the rear wheel wells left open to the elements. Unbeknownst to me, for 6 hours the tires sprayed dirty snow melt through these jump seat bolt holes and on to the fresh new headliner. I was pretty frustrated as the shiny new interior had just been hosed with dirty water for the entire drive.... first order of business was dry and clean the interior, then plug the holes so this didn't happen again.

I looked through the receipt that he gave me from a very reputable Land Cruiser restoration company and felt happy that someone who knew what they were doing had comprehensively looked over this rig and repaired or replaced what was needed.

Here are the items I knew based on what I was told:

1 - The prior owner bought the vehicle sight unseen and shipped it to the restoration company.
2 - The restoration company spent 3 months (and an obscene amount of money from the prior owner) completing a "stage 1" restoration.
3 - Most of the items repaired or replaced were in the category of "cosmetic", which was fine because I'm better at the mechanical items.
4 - The engine needed to be rebuilt as it smoked quite a bit.
5 - The tub had been painted, including the outside of the doors but not the top
6 - The inside of the tub had been Vortex lined a matching color
7 - The engine had been partially de-smogged

I decided to start where the PO left off by finishing the de-smogging. I looked it over and it appeared they did a pretty terrible job. The air rail was still hooked up but broken off and each of the 6 connections were only finger tight (I suppose it could have been worse). A myriad of vacuum hoses had been plugged or were left dangling and the EGR pipe connecting to the exhaust manifold was lose. The smog pump was long gone, thankfully replaced with a Sagnaw power steering pump.

I removed the air rail and plugged the holes with some pipe plugs I found at the local hardware store.

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I removed the EGR system and welded the EGR tube closed.

I followed the directions for the vacuum routing procedures found here on MUD to make sense of the remaining lines. (Thank you everyone who posted information here, it was very helpful!)



I then drove it and it ran the same but somehow 10lbs of non functioning smog equipment made me feel like it drove slightly better. It certainly opened up the engine compartment so I could see and work much easier!

More to come soon.
 
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I should probably back up and share why I'm creating this build/fix thread. My goal here is to not only document what I'm doing to this vehicle but also, I've learned so much in the month I've been working on this thing, perhaps what I share will help others.

Okay, back to the fun.

I did a detailed inventory of what needed to be addressed and started ordering parts.

- Wiper blades replaced - not the most important item until you're driving 6 hours in snow/rain.
- Bestop Fold and Tumble seat - removed and sold. (original jump seats were included with the vehicle)
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- New seat belts front and back - ordered and installed. (originals were hammered)

Upon driving back from Portland, I noticed a rather loud clunk every time I hit a bump in the road... I investigated and found the motor mounts not only completely destroyed but the bolts holding them on were also only finger tight.... nice. Ordered and replaced all 4. Clunk still present.

I picked up a pressure washer and 2 gallons of purple super clean and went to town on the undercarriage. This removed 40 years of grease, grime and mud that had accumulated from it's prior life. After it dried I surveyed the possible source of the clunk. Things looked good underneath, no major damage or odd repairs.

The body mounts were also hammered, rusted, collapsed and overall just mangled. The two big front mounts were loose and the drivers side was missing the bolt. The two rear body mounts for the cargo area were completely missing. Nice, so glad this thing had a restoration at a reputable Land Cruiser shop! I ordered and replaced all of the mounts, test drove and it's much quieter.

I ended up finding the really cool "family cage" that the restoration company installed was only bolted down finger tight.... nice, I'm starting to question the quality of work they do. I assume they neglected to tighten the bolts thinking the next owner would send it back to them to finish the restoration. I tightened all of the bolts and test drove it, the clunk was gone.
 
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Congrats!! Great looking 40. I’ve been working on my recently purchased 40 as well, and have found that electrical box knock outs make for great hole repairs. PO on mine drilled about 100 holes for misc whatever’s...
 
The fun continues....

The hose from the valve cover to the air cleaner assembly (new looking) was bent in such a way that it was completely kinked and not possibly doing it's job of sucking out the vaporized oil. It can barely be seen in the top right of the picture. (pre de-smogging)
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I ordered a new one along with a new PCV valve, hose and grommet. Installed all of these and it seemed like each time I looked at it, something else had to be replaced. I guess this is part of the fun.

I pulled and inspected the spark plugs, they were tan and showed no real signs that it burned oil as bad as the shop said it did. However, they were Champions, so I ordered NDs gapped and installed, it seemed to run a little better.

The fuel filter was a cheap plastic one, so I replaced it with the OEM version. No change in how it ran or drove.

As I drove home from Portland I remembered the washer nozzle dangling about 2" above the hood once I hit 50mph or faster. It looked like it was sticking it's head up to warn me... hey, I've not gone this fast in a long time, you might want to slow down! It was damaged and looked like someone tried to paint it a few times. I ordered a new one and replaced it. It clipped in to the hood perfectly and has remained stable ever since. :cool:

The transfer case shift knob lost it's gate indicator long ago, so I ordered one of those and replaced it. Somehow all of the little things get me just as excited as the bigger items. It's nice to see this thing being brought back to it's prior glory.

As I mentioned before, the jump seats were included and I prefer the look of those over the fold and tumble seat that was installed, so I removed the seat covers, foam, strap and rubber bumpers. Then I sent the seat frames off to be sand blasted and powder coated along with the trans/xfer case skid plate. I'll be picking those items up later today. Pics to come soon.

When I looked in the glove box with the previous owner as I was looking the vehicle over, I saw there was a replacement temp gauge in the factory Toyota box. I asked him about it and he said it was sent to him by the restoration place after he called and asked why the temp gauge didn't work. I assumed they knew what they were talking about so I removed the gauge cluster, cleaned it up, painted the needles, replaced the bulbs with brighter ones and installed the new gauge.... 2 hours of work, no change. Nice... restoration place strikes again! But at least I was able to clean 40 years of dust out of the gauges!
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I then went on RockAuto and ordered a new temp sender for $9, installed it and after 2 minutes of work the gauge works perfectly. part number BEC 201-0429

I noticed the ignition key was original and barely had any ridges left on it, so I ordered all new lock cylinders (ignition, driver/passenger door and fuel door). I found OEM replacements on ebay for $150. They showed up in 4 days and took all of about 30 minutes to install. The rear ambulance doors had new lock cylinders and keys replaced by the restoration place. So now I have all new keys and the door locks work much better. While I was in the doors, I cleaned out the drains at the bottom of the doors and vacuumed out the insides. I also lubed up the window regulators, as they are kind of clunky, but I suspect I'll need to replace those in the future as the lube job did nothing noticeable.
 
Congrats!! Great looking 40. I’ve been working on my recently purchased 40 as well, and have found that electrical box knock outs make for great hole repairs. PO on mine drilled about 100 holes for misc whatever’s...

That's awesome! Great idea! Luckily all of the holes in my tub were easily filled by simply putting bolts in mounting holes for the jump seats. That's one thing I'm grateful for, less welding on this thing than I have had to do on prior vehicles.:)
 
After spending some time driving this thing and looking at the various vendors recommended here on this site, I reached out to Roger from CityRacer and ordered a couple of key items.

- An OEM distributor for a de-smogged 2F
- An OEM de-smogged carb

These two items were considerably more expensive than all of the other parts I'd ordered but well worth it!

I first replaced the distributor and as I took out the old one, I noticed the vac advance or retard was screwed stationary. That could be why it pinged like a mofo on my test drives. I test drove it with the new distributor and it ran MUCH smoother! It idled better and seemed to have a touch more power. When I timed it I gave it a touch of advance and backed it off a bit until it quit pinging. What a difference that made! I have the old distributor if anyone wants to buy it... PM me.
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I then set about the carb replacement. Super easy, unbolt, disconnect the fuel input and return line. Plug the return line. Install new choke cable ferrule and put a little spacer on the top so the air cleaner assembly fits. It started right up and I set the idle, took it for a spin and WOW! It runs so incredibly smooth and has an enormous amount of power increase, especially when the secondaries open up. Looking back after having this thing for about a month and doing various part replacements, this is without a doubt the best change I've made. I have the old one if anyone wants to buy it. I bet it would be a great candidate for a rebuild.... PM me.
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One of the less important items I've done was to replace all of the non factory hose clamps with the factory looking wire hose clamps from CityRacer. While this didn't do anything to remedy a problem Scout had, it did afford me the opportunity to flush out the coolant and make sure all of the hoses were in good shape. I took my time, replaced all of the hose clamps and let the engine idle with the radiator petcock open and a hose filling the radiator for an hour or so while I watched it. Eventually all of the brown water stopped flowing and clean clear water started coming out. I then drained and filled the system up with new coolant, test drove it and checked for leaks. All is good and the heater seems to work better too! :cheers: My wife will like that!

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Along the lines of doing things that don't really matter... I removed the blower motor box, cleaned it up, painted it, installed new foam and put a sticker on it. I know it's not the right sticker but it looks nice. HA! The fan had TONS of 40 year old dust inside it, so cleaning that out was a bit of a chore but it sure does blow harder now and much quieter! Again, something the wife will appreciate, meaning we get to drive it more often.
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Nice!
 
How about those rear wheel well holes-did ya patch them?
 
And even more.... I noticed Cruiser Corps had some really nice mats for both the front and the cargo area of FJ40s so I ordered up a set and installed them. They fit perfectly and keep my pup from sliding all around. I also kept the factory rubber floor mat and installed the Cruiser Corps mats over it. Then to top it all off, I ordered 4 cheap 1/2" thick black yoga mats and trimmed those up to fit under all of the mats. It's much quieter and adds a little padding.
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I also picked up an OEM tool bag from a FJ60, filled it with some tools I'd need if anything broke, picked up a bottle jack mount from ebay and a cheap bottle jack from Amazon (I had to add the sticker of course) and mounted them all up with some D-rings I also found on Amazon. Tool/jack situation... handled!
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This past weekend my wife and I drove Scout around for a few hours, visiting my brother and finding a couple of really cool roads to drive on instead of the freeway. A few things cropped up that I wanted to address.

1- After idling at a stop light for a while this thing smokes like a Cheech and Chong movie as I accelerate away. I suspect the valve stem seals as I did a compression check a few days ago and all cylinders are at 160psi. I'm clearly not all that interested in doing a full rebuild with these kind of compression numbers.... besides, I'd probably have more of a 007 smoke screen all the time if it were truly needing a rebuild. I ordered a valve spring removal tool, an air compressor attachment to keep the valves in place, a valve cover gasket and some valve stem seals. I'll report back on how the replacement goes and if I see any noticeable difference in the smoke show.

2- The starter needs to crank quite a bit to start this beast when it's warm. It's almost like it has vapor lock except I seriously doubt it does because the ambient temp was in the 50's. I previously had ordered a gear reduction starter from Cruiser Corps for about $150 and after spending 10 minutes installing it, problem solved. This is probably the 2nd best thing I've done so far. Now it starts after just bumping the key and I have another shiny part on this turd.
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3- When we'd stop at stop lights the heater blower motor would slow down quite a bit. I noticed that on my initial drive home from Portland as well and suspected the alternator was showing it's age. So I ordered one on RockAuto for $50 (part number REM 14540) it took about 10 minutes to install it and as soon as I started the engine I could tell a difference. The blower motor blew so hard it spewed dust all over the cabin and the amp gauge didn't sag down as far at idle. I think it was only a matter of time before the old alternator completely failed... this new (rebuilt) one is so much more powerful!!
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That's all for now.
 
1- After idling at a stop light for a while this thing smokes like a Cheech and Chong movie as I accelerate away. I suspect the valve stem seals as I did a compression check a few days ago and all cylinders are at 160psi. I'm clearly not all that interested in doing a full rebuild with these kind of compression numbers.... besides, I'd probably have more of a 007 smoke screen all the time if it were truly needing a rebuild. I ordered a valve spring removal tool, an air compressor attachment to keep the valves in place, a valve cover gasket and some valve stem seals. I'll report back on how the replacement goes and if I see any noticeable difference in the smoke show.

That's exactly what it is. If it's smoking that bad, it's possible that the guides themselves may be worn out of spec. If so, you'll have to pull the head to replace them, but it's worth trying just the seals first anyway.

Nice-looking truck and good progress so far.
 
Very nice! 77 is definitely the best year, mine is Freeborn Red over on the East side of WA.
Thanks man! I really like it! It's old enough to need some work done but not so old that every single thing I touch breaks. HA! Red is a great color for an fj40! It too looks at home here in the PNW! Cheers man!
 
That's exactly what it is. If it's smoking that bad, it's possible that the guides themselves may be worn out of spec. If so, you'll have to pull the head to replace them, but it's worth trying just the seals first anyway.

Nice-looking truck and good progress so far.
Thanks 1911! I'm glad to have someone else confirm. I hope it's just the seals but if it's more, at least I tried the easy item first.
 

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