Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser

Joined
Jan 26, 2018
Messages
121
Location
Salish Sea
Several weeks ago I purchased my first Land Cruiser. Ive wanted one since I was 12 when I visited South Africa on a trip with my parents who were volunteering in South Africa. Needless to say, it took awhile to finally get one (im 38 now), yet here I am with at the key to a 1993 FJZ80 and a big smile on my face! I bought it off a college kid who was eager bolt on a bunch of admittedly awesome accessories (ARB bumper, OME 2.5 and 315's, 4x4 labs rear, front runner rack, ARB awning) but couldn't really figure out things like the CEL, leaky sunroof, non operating window etc. or didn't have time/ interest/ resources to do it.

My initial excitement from purchasing my rig took a pretty bid hit after discovering that the carpet was wet and I took a really close look at all the many neglected issues the rig had. I Decided that I needed a list to keep track and prioritize my baseline repairs. I started making a list in a notebook, but I decided that a baselining thread would be helpful to keep track of this process and keep me organized in my efforts to bring this rig back from neglect. This forum has been really inspirational and Ive already fixed a couple of frustrating issues that the PO didn't attend to, which is a powerful start!

Since it's raining outside and I can't work on the window issues, I decided that I'd get this thread going.

The list (in brain dump order):

Engine/
  • CEL-Oxygen Sensors replaced 2/10/18
  • CEL- Knock Sensors (both connectors are broken off and dangling) replaced both knock sensors
  • Power Steering return hose slowly leaking at clamp
  • Weird whistling/ drone sound with acceleration
  • Missing Air Cleaner Wing nut replaced 3/25/2018
  • Speedometer not calibrated to 315's
  • Rear exhaust hanger missing- PO had tail pipe cut to install 4x4labs bumper (it rattles and now has a small kink replaced 3/28/2018
  • Change Diff fluids
  • flush cooling sustem
  • replace PHH
  • Replace Coolant hoses
  • Inspect and replace Vacuum lines

Electrical
  • Reverse Lights not working
  • Gear indicator light not working
  • Gear selector light not working
  • Temp Gauge is not working Reaattached connector, awaiting pigtail repair solution 3/12/18

Interior/ Body
  • Leaking sunroof/ wet carpet cleared drains, repaired A/c cond. hose routing 2/6/18
  • Non-functioning Drivers window Replaced driver's switch 2/10/18
  • remove car phone wiring 3/10/18
  • Rear Driver's door window not in glass channel/ regulator Reassembled 3/10/18
  • Passenger window regulator non functional (broken guide wheel) installed new regulator 3/22/2018
  • Windows all very very slow
  • Windshield leaks at lower right corner
  • Third row seatbelts missing Sourced via 'mud member! 3/15/18
  • Front power seats fore/ aft not working (driver's tracks/ gears are wonky) Passenger's not functioning
  • Small rust spot below rear hatch window.
  • Rear hatch lock is impacted with dust/ grime
  • Rear window defroster has non functioning spots
  • LCD on stereo non functioning
  • Rear passenger speaker is blown and noisy
  • Rear sub rotten and torn
Ok that's the current list.

Here is the obligatory photo of the rig. Kids are calling it LANDO (they only shout and really only talk about Star Wars).

IMG_0988.jpg


IMG_1289.jpg
 
Last edited:

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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Jan 29, 2014
Messages
5,463
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Battle Ground
Looks like you have issues there. The whistle is coming from the exhaust. Some 80's have it some don't. I just cleared up whistling that started at 270k by replacing the muffler with a Walker oem style muffler. Do you live in/near Seattle?
 
Joined
Nov 27, 2017
Messages
481
Location
Long Island
Good luck with the new 80'. Recently picked up a 91' myself. Things that sound familiar....
Wet drivers side carpet- fixed with gorilla tape on sun roof until I can do it right
Lower right windshield leak, I have not checked it out but discoloration makes it seem so.
All my windows are slow, figure its the rubber seals
High pressure line (Gates) for PS pump and rebuild kit ordered
You've got a good project on your hands, I've learned it's therapeutic to figure out, and work on the 80. can't wait for warmer weather.
I got a bunch of things under the hood done like oil leaks, tune up, etc. Front axle rebuild.

Anyway, when I bought it I was excited, then I started noticing things that had to be done and it was a bit of a downer, but fixed that with getting things done, and i'm cool with it again. Enjoy!
 
Joined
Jan 26, 2018
Messages
121
Location
Salish Sea
Thanks for the encouragement folks. I'm not disappointed, but perhaps a bit overwhelmed. That being said, I absolutely love this thing, and its great to get waves from other LC drivers. I'll keep plugging away at it. I don't have excessive wealth, so i'll fix what i'm able to and what i can't fix I'll lean on the good people of this forum to give me a hand thinking things through. Its been said before, but this is a rabbit hole of information. I'm frankly still learning how to search efficiently!

Also I need that windshield shade @2fpower, homade? You realize that if my kids ever see that....
 
Joined
Jan 26, 2018
Messages
121
Location
Salish Sea
Looks like you have issues there. The whistle is coming from the exhaust. Some 80's have it some don't. I just cleared up whistling that started at 270k by replacing the muffler with a Walker oem style muffler. Do you live in/near Seattle?
Nope up in Bellingham! My Exhaust looks kind of tired, so its probably on the list of stuff to replace at some point.
 

CaptClose

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 8, 2016
Messages
1,597
Location
San Antonio, TX
Great thread... just got my first 80 and I’m going through the same process. Can we compare rear window rust spots? I’m wondering if this is a common problem and if so, what is the cause. Here’s mine:

64EEC16C-81B8-4557-87F9-AE1C3908E02F.jpeg


Not trying to hihack, but thought we could help each other solve a mutual problem.

Good luck brother, I’ll be following your progress.
 
Joined
Jan 26, 2018
Messages
121
Location
Salish Sea
Great thread... just got my first 80 and I’m going through the same process. Can we compare rear window rust spots? I’m wondering if this is a common problem and if so, what is the cause. Here’s mine:

View attachment 1649749

Not trying to hihack, but thought we could help each other solve a mutual problem.

Good luck brother, I’ll be following your progress.
Yep mine is in the sameish spot, perhaps a bit less advanced. I haven’t searched that item on the list yet...it’s behind my giant spare tire which distracts me with its awesomeness. ;)
 
Joined
Apr 14, 2016
Messages
1,025
Location
Oregon
Can we compare rear window rust spots? I’m wondering if this is a common problem and if so, what is the cause.
For what it's worth, having looked at hundreds of for-sale listings, I've mostly seen it to the right of center. I have no idea why it happens. Mine had it, too. When I repainted, I just pried the seal up, went at it with sandpaper, hit it with rust converter, followed by a bit of body filler due to minor pitting. I'm not too worried about it since, in the worst case that it rusts again and worsens, the rear hatch is probably one of the most plentiful body parts to find in wrecking yards.

The correct way to deal with it would be to pull the entire rear window, wire-brush down any rust, epoxy prime, filler, seal, repaint, then reinstall with a new gasket. Personally, I'd probably use urethane sealant like what's recommended for the windshield. I wouldn't attempt any kind of in-place application of sealant for fear of trapping moisture and making the problem worse.
 
Joined
Jan 5, 2017
Messages
2,270
Location
Charlotte, North Carolina
:clap:Plan your work and work your plan.

Engine
*Which hose? The Ø10-mm lines are connected to the $200-ish power steering fluid cooler. The Ø16-mm one, from the bottom of the reservoir, is available OEM, but in a pinch a Ø5/8 power steering fluid rated hose will work. I tried a Ø3/8-in hose on the cooler, but didn't like the fit. The hose wall is really thick, the tubing wall is really thin, and they don't want to go together well. You can get it on, but not seated where it should be, IMO. Make sure you know it's the hose. All of my power steering leaks were pumps. Of course, I destroyed the 20 year old hoses removing them...
*Could be your front windows? Mine whined until I replaced the channel runs.
RH 68141-60010 (check these numbers against your VIN)
LH 68151-60010
*90175-08008, $2.00-ish.
*Not going to happen, AFAIK. The speedometer is microprocessor controlled, and it can't be flashed, again AFAIK. (If I'm wrong, someone'll correct me)
*The bracket or the damper?
upload_2018-3-9_8-18-52.png


Electrical
*Check your bulbs
*Check your grounds and clean all of them and all of the connectors you can find.

HTH
 
Joined
Jan 26, 2018
Messages
121
Location
Salish Sea
:clap:Plan your work and work your plan.

Engine
*Which hose? The Ø10-mm lines are connected to the $200-ish power steering fluid cooler. The Ø16-mm one, from the bottom of the reservoir, is available OEM, but in a pinch a Ø5/8 power steering fluid rated hose will work. I tried a Ø3/8-in hose on the cooler, but didn't like the fit. The hose wall is really thick, the tubing wall is really thin, and they don't want to go together well. You can get it on, but not seated where it should be, IMO. Make sure you know it's the hose. All of my power steering leaks were pumps. Of course, I destroyed the 20 year old hoses removing them...
*Could be your front windows? Mine whined until I replaced the channel runs.
RH 68141-60010 (check these numbers against your VIN)
LH 68151-60010
*90175-08008, $2.00-ish.
*Not going to happen, AFAIK. The speedometer is microprocessor controlled, and it can't be flashed, again AFAIK. (If I'm wrong, someone'll correct me)
*The bracket or the damper?
View attachment 1649849

Electrical
*Check your bulbs
*Check your grounds and clean all of them and all of the connectors you can find.

HTH
Thanks Malleus, I’ve been through lots of posts and threads and I am formulating my plans of attack (and budgeting repairs)!

I was thinking that the yellow box speedo correction (110.85 shipped) would work with my vehicle. I did email the company and said the plug n play model will work-"it joins to 3-pin connector plug set at Outpost Speed Sensor located on the transmission. Most users run the wiring harness through he existing grommet holes int he firewall above the transmission and mount their Yellow Box inside the car." There is also Marks 4WD digital speedo correction unit. It looks even easier to use, but its speedy at $200. This repair is to make things more straight forward keeping track of speed and milage, but obviously its not totally necessary.

As for the electrical issues my gear indicator lights flickered last night on the dash when I pulled into the driveway and shifted to park! So I’m certainly planning on checking/ cleaning/ grounds. As far as the NSS connector I’m going to check it out when I replace the knock sensors (parts are in the mail). I’ve been reading threads about corroded connectors near the PHH. I’m anticipating I might find some corrosion and damage but hopefully not!

The PHH looks like it was changed at some point, it has what looks like hardware store hose clamps on it, but the more I read about PHH issues and repairs the more I'm inclined to attempt replacing it while I have the knock sensors out since I'd like to avoid damaging the new ones and I have absolutely no idea when this was changed or if it ever was. ITs not swollen, but as I understand it thats not at all a good gauge. The whole PHH repair would also be a good time to replace some of the other cooling system hoses and parts, but after reading the post on Brian894x4's website i'm overwhelmed at the scope of the job...deep breath!

PS leak-I wiped off a huge amount of grime and PS fluid off of the reservoir when I brought it home. So far the only leak I can see seems to be coming from the larger hose which I believe is return hose. It's just a slow seep at this point.
0A8C8637-FBCD-4D87-8A93-C64ED4836AF6.jpeg


The whining noise happens when I increase power. If I'm holding speed in town its quiet, but if i accelerate from a stop or to increase speed on the go it has a whine/drone/ almost whistle. What i imagine a turbo to kind of sound like (never owned a turbocharged vehicle). I'm missing the wing nut/washer gasket to the air cleaner housing, I'm hoping its just air getting sucked across that, but its totally possible its the exhaust.

The exhaust hanger you show in your photo and bracket are missing, as is the tuner. The shop that installed the bumper elected to cut if off IIRC what the PO said. When purchasing the vehicle I attempted to contact the shop in Bend, OR that did the work, but they never got back to me. Needless to say seeing those things missing without a solution to secure the tailpipe is a little concerning.
9C8603B6-13B8-4E3E-A246-B415C31491DD.jpeg
F8F9E4AF-42AA-42B7-8265-BB62BEECA6B0.jpeg

The whole thing is loose and that sucks. It needs attention. I’m sure that the deformed tail pipe isn’t helping performance at all. Im not sure where the last bracket connects-is the bumper obscuring mounting holes? I'll search for a photo later...

It looks like things are not connected properly from point 3 or point 4 in the below diagram. rad.
175834.jpg



Whahoo!
 
Joined
Apr 14, 2016
Messages
1,025
Location
Oregon
They do have a sort of turbo like sound. I assume just the particular shape of the intake. There's a resonator box inside the fender, if I understand correctly.
 

Box Rocket

SILVER Star
 
 
Joined
Jan 2, 2003
Messages
4,206
Location
Syracuse, Utah
Really common to get a pronounced whistle from the exhaust if the resonator is removed. Mine was LOUD when I cut off the resonator. Too loud. I needed some exhaust work done anyway so I had the cats replaced as well as the muffler with a Magnaflow and the whistle is gone. The Magnaflow and cats are louder than stock but not bad.

Let's see this Blue interior. You sure it isn't grey?
 
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