Builds 1979 FJ40 Preservation-ish Project (15 Viewers)

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8/80 + rear axle would be ideal! I am assuming they would be hard to find.

FJCO Sells bolt on adapters for $500, or you could make them yourself pretty easily with your skillz

Or narrow a FJ60 axle, again pretty easy with your skillz
 
I am now fully committed to a stock axle rebuild on this truck.
9617404B-8D63-434D-BE00-A9BB4EFD16F6.jpeg

Only question now is do I powdercoat the axles and components?
 
I have got the rear axle stripped down, minus the 3rd member and the backing plates. I am trying to determine acceptable wear tolerances on the thrust washers and the pillow block shaft. Anything else that is typically serviced or inspected while I am in there.
- Going to replace the universal joint on the drive shaft.
- Probably going to pull the fuel tank while the driveshaft is out.
- serviced the transfer case output seal and parking break.

The shaft has some visible wear, the thrust washers are polished and smooth. I am trying to determine if these should be replaces? Can I still source OEM thrust washers and pillow block shaft? (I have not found the correct term). Tonight I will grab a beer and read the MUD and the FSM to get my answers.


REAR 3RD MEMBER.jpg

3RD SPIDER GEAR SET.jpg
3RD PIN WEAR.jpg
REAR 3RD SPIDER AND THRUST WASHERS.jpg
 
Salesman mechanic trick to avoid reading a FSM ever…..

Put the front diff in the rear. It’s basically new on 98% of US 40/55/60s
 
🤯 This is a trick!

I should have planned on rebuilding the front axle at the same time. I could probably finish both axles before Christmas. Skipping the powdercoat would sure save some time.
 
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First attempt at removing the u-joint with a socket and hammer failed, I guess I need a u-joint puller
View attachment 2999507
I'm a little late to the party to be useful on this but I don't bother pressing out ujoints anymore. I torch all 4 of the crosses in half, basically cutting the arms from the center...I then use a air hammer and drive the caps in, to the space previously occupied by the center of the joint and they drive out like a hot knife through butter. It works awesome, I've never had it fail me.
 
If you didn’t already find out all the rear spider gear components are available new
I’d love to buy a few of those diff plates? :)

Brake lines - adhesive lined high ratio heat shrink
 
I have ordered the spider gear thrust washers, but not the actual spider gears. Better to replace the spider gears at the same time? I have been a little concerned the old spider gear and new thrust washer would not mate/ wear well together. I was also planning on swapping the front and rear 3rd members.

Heat shrink is a great solutions! I just tried to order 90480-01069 brake line grommet, we will see if it is actually available.

I am new as scouring the internet for Toyota parts, @OGBeno had me spoiled. Takes me forever to get my parts list together and I can never seem to order everything I need at the same time.
 
You could probably use two separate rubber bushings/grommets for the rear brake line bracket.

I think two small bushings, similar to the spring eye bushings, placed end to end from either side of the bracket, might be a good solution if you can't find the actual one.

Maybe @ToyotaMatt could reproduce this bushing???
 

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