1FZ engine building and blueprinting (2 Viewers)

[hazard]

Looks good, I like the direct oil flow from the mains. I am a little surprised since you were getting custom rods, and crank you didn't drop down from a 2.38 big end to like a 2.00 or 2.10 it would have helped a little with the clearance and with today's materials it is still plenty big. Also would have helped a little with bearing speed if you do decide to spin it up a little bit

I think you could easily to 350ci it is just going to take some very careful planning. You could probably go 103.5mm bore with Darton sleeves, and just by resizing the bottom end from 2.38 to 2.00 you could gain almost 5mm in stroke with the same clearance. So a 103.5mm x 119mm would be 366ci. Haha.

I know there are adapters for TH400, and 4L80E, I haven't seen anything for the new transmissions. ATI sells the TH400 adapter and Marks in Australia sells the 4L80E adapters.

Just thought about that 366. The other limit is the piston CD. For street use I probably wouldn’t want to squish the ring pack any tighter. But there is about 3mm room left on my pistons before the pin starts intersecting ring lands. Even then could go more and use ring support rails.
Of course it would change the rod/stroke ratio even more, what are your opinions on r/s ratios, and how would sleeves help, I see the bore limiting factor as the very little area between bores for head to seal on, what do you think would be minimum for seal?
Cheers

 

[scottryana]

Well I think there is still plenty of room on the ring pack depending on what size rings you use. If you look at a LS7 piston from Mahle the CP is only 1.105 and I think you are 1.3, so not a huge difference but if you really wanted to get crazy that is almost another 2.5mm there. Haha.

I think rod length to stroke becomes much more crucial when you are talking about thin walls, short pistons and high cylinder pressures. The lower you are the more rock you have on the piston and the more pressure you put on the cylinder walls. I think above 1.5 is pretty safe for NA, but there are engines out there like the M3 that with a turbo is only 1.48. At 114mm stroke with a 28mm compression height you would have a 163.5mm rod and a Ratio of around 1.44:1

The reason the sleeves would help is I would feel much more comfortable pushing to the edge with a ductile iron sleeve that is probably 3x (100,000 vs 30,000psi) higher tensile strength than the cast iron block. So I would feel comfortable going all the way to the water jackets and filling back in with Siamesed sleeves.

 

[ThomasMore66]

Any updates?

 

[hazard]

Any updates?

No. Sorry won't be for quite a while as I will be travelling. I also am starting another thread soon as I bought another 80 I have torn down and will build up to accept the engine. Please stay tuned.

 

[ThomasMore66]

Nice.

 

[ThomasMore66]

Just checking in.

 

[musthave]

Incredible thread, looking forward to the updates.

 

[scottryana]

Just to throw this out there. I ordered a Lexus GS-F valve (part number 13711-38050) because I heard it was titanium and I didn't believe that you could buy a Ti valve for $14 from Toyota when they are like $140 from Ferrea. But sure enough it is a 38mm titanium valve which is the stock cruiser diameter. It does have a smaller shaft diameter (5mm vs 7mm) so you would need custom guides and is a little longer so would require machining but it is crazy how much lighter it is than the 41mm Ferrea valve I have for my truck. I haven't put them on the scale yet but I bet it is 1/2 the weight.

L to R
41mm Ferrea LC valve, 38mm GS-F Ti valve, 34.5mm 3UZFE valve.

 

[hazard]

Great find on the valves, I will definitely keep in mind as I need new guides anyways.
They look taller though????

 

[bjowett]

They are 29 - 30 grams. The stock steel valve from a UR is about 50 grams. The exhaust valves in the 467hp gen 2 are also made of titanium, while they are stainless in the 416hp gen 1. Both will run you about $24 each. If you need any more info, I'll supply, it if I have it.

 

[scottryana]

Yep!

The 38mm Ti valve weighed 29.7g on my scale and the Ferrea 41mm LC valve was 74.6g. Huge difference.

And yes Hazard they are longer. The Ti valves are 105.84mm and the Ferrea valves are 98.88mm, so you would need to have them machined, but at a price difference of $14*12= $168, vs $140*12=$1680 you should be able to have them machined and DLC coated and still have a bunch of money left over. lol.

They are 29 - 30 grams. The stock steel valve from a UR is about 50 grams. The exhaust valves in the 467hp gen 2 are also made of titanium, while they are stainless in the 416hp gen 1. Both will run you about $24 each. If you need any more info, I'll supply, it if I have it.

 

[bjowett]

Great guess on the weight being 1/2!

Also, the stems are 5.5 mm... 5 mm would be pushing it on the durability side of things! I suspect the valves are already coated, so you'll only need to recoat where it is machined. They utilize, at least on the intake, the same guides and seats as the steel valves.

Here's the big secret with these valves, they are sinter forged/powdered metal. There's a paper about them floating around out there. Toyota spent a big chunk of the 90's developing them, and I'm sure they've improved over the years as they see use, as mentioned above, on the exhaust side now. They material first saw use in the 1998 3S-GE BEAMS Engine valves.

 

[scottryana]

Yep you’re absolutely right. 5.5mm, they just felt pretty tiny in my hand after holding the much bigger 1FZ valve.

That’s interesting that they are a sinter forged titanium. I didn’t know such a thing existed. But that would probably explain some of the surface patterning I am seeing.

It seems like a very interesting piece. Even though I am mentioning it here for a 1FZ all out build my idea was originally to use them in a 3UZ. And even when compared to a 3UZ valve that has the same diameter stem and an even smaller head (38mm vs 34.5mm) they weigh much less (29.7g vs 46g)

Great guess on the weight being 1/2!

Also, the stems are 5.5 mm... 5 mm would be pushing it on the durability side of things! I suspect the valves are already coated, so you'll only need to recoat where it is machined. They utilize, at least on the intake, the same guides and seats as the steel valves.

Here's the big secret with these valves, they are sinter forged/powdered metal. There's a paper about them floating around out there. Toyota spent a big chunk of the 90's developing them, and I'm sure they've improved over the years as they see use, as mentioned above, on the exhaust side now. They material first saw use in the 1998 3S-GE BEAMS Engine valves.

 

[2fpower]

thread hijack... anyone have a source for the SWT10184ZZ piston ring sets?

 

[Rivman1243]

Bump! Any updates?

 

[hazard]

Sorry guys, life got in the way. I'll post a bit.
Mounted a piston so I could clearance the block for the stroke. This is what a stock piston look like hanging on a 114mm crank. Stock length rod, 14mm longer stroke than stock. New pistons will fix that.

 

[hazard]

Had to cut hole in piston so I could see through to find where I need clearance. Set at a very safe 0.06" using a welding rod.

 

[hazard]

Clearancing all done. Just going to polish it up a bit then next stop machine shop. I have purchased a torque plat for boring and honing, $600.
Many holes in block but I know how to fix. All feeling a little scary now, lot of bucks this thing better run. Probably another year yet the way I am going. Gotta leave now, back to my 80 in Baja for a couple weeks.

 

[hazard]

Torque plate
I found two places for torque plates, one was DeeWorks in Quebec Canada. $600, its in transit now.


Torque Plate for Toyota 1FZ-FE Engine 103mm Max Bore
https://www.deeworks.ca/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/DSC_0138-e1539115604771.jpg

Torque Plate for Toyota 1FZ-FE Engine 103mm Max Bore quantity
Description $460.00 USD 4 in stock

If you are here, you know what these are for. Most serious engine rebuilder will use one of these plate when boring a block. It is easy to see if a block has been honed with or without a plate just by out of round the bore can get once everything is torqued down. These plate simulate the stress of a fully torqued head when doing the cylinder bore honing. I make a lot of torque plate for different engine and got asked to do the Toyota 1FZ-FE torque plate. I now stock these from now on! These plate will fit on all 1FZ-FE Toyota Engine with a maximum bore of 103mm.They are CNC machined out of 2″ thick 6061-T6 aluminum. Stainless steel insert are included so it can be used numerous time without damaging the mounting hole. They also give you close to stock height of a head so you can use your old head bolt to torque down the plate.It is suitable for bore up to 103MM for those seeking maximum displacement on these engine, but they obviously can be used on smaller bore too.

I can make custom bore at no extra charge!

Included

• A Honing plate
  
  
  
• 14 Stainless Steel Spacer

These plate will ship to Canada and the United State for a flat rate of

 

[asuddendeath]

Where is this build at?