1FZ engine building and blueprinting

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Yeah that is a nice looking rod. I wanted to wait until I could see it on my computer instead of the tiny phone screen. You are absolutely right you need that thrust surface coated. While the thought that there should be oil film there I do not trust that at all. Since I would think this engine won't be taken back apart for a long time, the bushing in the rod was probably the right way to go. DLC is an amazing coating and you don't have to use a bushing in the rod, what are you really saving? Maybe 3-5g if you are lucky. And on your small end there really isn't much there anyways! Haha.

Cutting that kind of weight while maintaining strength is always impressive. Just takes cubic dollars ;)
 
Just back home for a few days and more arrivals.
When I left I had sent my pistons/pins back to JE as they had too tight piston to pin clearance. They are good now, I have not measured but they slip fit fine.
A little pissed though as these were full custom with all the options, probably the most expensive 1FZ pistons ever made. One pricey option was to have them put through JE’s “critical order processing” which is usually reserved for top tier racing teams. It was supposed to offer tighter tolerances, 23 point post production inspection, shorter timelines etc. etc. Blah, blah. Obviously they didn’t even check pin fit, and they were months late, and they are of unequal weight, small but I think critical. I will balance them but I think for the price they should have been tighter. They apologized and paid freight, but that’s not enough in this price range. Next time, and there will be, if they don’t offer me a discount, I will try Carrillo.
 
You’re back! Did you mean to have enogine in your tag line? Am I an idiot for not getting something?
 
New stroker crank from Crower (not Brian Crower) also arrived. It weighs in at 68.3 lbs as opposed to stock 81.9 saving 13.6 lbs all in the counterweights.
Differences from stock:
114 stoke vs 95
6 counterweights vs 12
Thinner counterweights
Knife edged counterweights
Different oiling
Stock oiling is cross drilled, this crank has oil flow directly from mains to each adjacent rod, see pictures. They say it’s better but definitely no big deal.
Not really happy, Crower was very late and for the price they should have had finer knife edge, be lighter, and have REM finishing, (a micro polishing with a much smoother finish on journals and all surfaces. Next time may try Bryant that includes all this.
Something went wrong more pictures next post

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Yeah that is a nice looking rod. I wanted to wait until I could see it on my computer instead of the tiny phone screen. You are absolutely right you need that thrust surface coated. While the thought that there should be oil film there I do not trust that at all. Since I would think this engine won't be taken back apart for a long time, the bushing in the rod was probably the right way to go. DLC is an amazing coating and you don't have to use a bushing in the rod, what are you really saving? Maybe 3-5g if you are lucky. And on your small end there really isn't much there anyways! Haha.


I don’t think I’d want no bushing in ti rods, but I still should have coated pins.
 
That first pic oil hole..,
 
Now the clearanciing begins. Oilers and counterweight clear but lots more rod clearance needed at cylinder bottom and side of block. As you can see I got over zealous on side of block, rod clears now but have a hole. No biggie but need to be more careful with rest. I have fixed large industrial diesels even in water jacket with JB Weld. However the cylinder bottom needs more, and on drivers side it is tight to an oil gallery. On passenger side it is tight to water jacket but I’m sure there is room. I also have a spare block. If this engine works I will get a junk block to see how far we can go. Perhaps 116+? That would make 347 cubic inches vs my 341 vs stock 273!!
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Now the clearanciing begins. Oilers and counterweight clear but lots more rod clearance needed at cylinder bottom and side of block. As you can see I got over zealous on side of block, rod clears now but have a hole. No biggie but need to be more careful with rest. I have fixed large industrial diesels even in water jacket with JB Weld. However the cylinder bottom needs more, and on drivers side it is tight to an oil gallery. On passenger side it is tight to water jacket but I’m sure there is room. I also have a spare block. If this engine works I will get a junk block to see how far we can go. Perhaps 116+? That would make 347 cubic inches vs my 341 vs stock 273!!View attachment 1665952 View attachment 1665954 View attachment 1665955
Would love to get to 350 cubes!!
 
Now the clearanciing begins. Oilers and counterweight clear but lots more rod clearance needed at cylinder bottom and side of block. As you can see I got over zealous on side of block, rod clears now but have a hole. No biggie but need to be more careful with rest. I have fixed large industrial diesels even in water jacket with JB Weld. However the cylinder bottom needs more, and on drivers side it is tight to an oil gallery. On passenger side it is tight to water jacket but I’m sure there is room. I also have a spare block. If this engine works I will get a junk block to see how far we can go. Perhaps 116+? That would make 347 cubic inches vs my 341 vs stock 273!!View attachment 1665952 View attachment 1665954 View attachment 1665955
Would love to get to 350 cubes!!
 
Anyone ever mated a Chevy trans to 1FZ?
With all the new tech, such as 9 speed autos, we could really improve performance and mileage.
I’m going to look into it for this engine, if anybody has let me know
@scottryana is in the know on this. He referenced it in the turbo thread.
 
you can put a bunch of trans in there. i have seen T56 setups, 4Lx, 6Lx, THx, 700r4... not sure on the newer stuff because of the computers but i would think gm performance makes stand alones for them.
 
Looks good, I like the direct oil flow from the mains. I am a little surprised since you were getting custom rods, and crank you didn't drop down from a 2.38 big end to like a 2.00 or 2.10 it would have helped a little with the clearance and with today's materials it is still plenty big. Also would have helped a little with bearing speed if you do decide to spin it up a little bit ;)

I think you could easily to 350ci it is just going to take some very careful planning. You could probably go 103.5mm bore with Darton sleeves, and just by resizing the bottom end from 2.38 to 2.00 you could gain almost 5mm in stroke with the same clearance. So a 103.5mm x 119mm would be 366ci. Haha.

I know there are adapters for TH400, and 4L80E, I haven't seen anything for the new transmissions. ATI sells the TH400 adapter and Marks in Australia sells the 4L80E adapters.
 
Looks good, I like the direct oil flow from the mains. I am a little surprised since you were getting custom rods, and crank you didn't drop down from a 2.38 big end to like a 2.00 or 2.10 it would have helped a little with the clearance and with today's materials it is still plenty big. Also would have helped a little with bearing speed if you do decide to spin it up a little bit ;)

I think you could easily to 350ci it is just going to take some very careful planning. You could probably go 103.5mm bore with Darton sleeves, and just by resizing the bottom end from 2.38 to 2.00 you could gain almost 5mm in stroke with the same clearance. So a 103.5mm x 119mm would be 366ci. Haha.

I know there are adapters for TH400, and 4L80E, I haven't seen anything for the new transmissions. ATI sells the TH400 adapter and Marks in Australia sells the 4L80E adapters.
You are correct on the journals etc. It would have made things easier for clearancing. I just got a bit scared of too many non stock items and availability etc.
Maybe next time, the 366!!
 

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