Beautiful fender trim/chop!
A 200 is meant to have 37’s (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter LC200JG
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Here was his first message when I asked him how it felt… “Yes, was really windy when I first started out. That was pushing me side to side a bit, and I noticed the swaybar being deleted. However, I put it in sport mode, and that took care of it. I was in comfort previously.”
Later on he said it felt “taller”, but the context seemed to indicate it was a good thing
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Here was his first message when I asked him how it felt… “Yes, was really windy when I first started out. That was pushing me side to side a bit, and I noticed the swaybar being deleted. However, I put it in sport mode, and that took care of it. I was in comfort previously.”
Later on he said it felt “taller”, but the context seemed to indicate it was a good thing
Yeah you definitely feel the difference of the AHC modes when the swaybar is gone!
Here was his first message when I asked him how it felt… “Yes, was really windy when I first started out. That was pushing me side to side a bit, and I noticed the swaybar being deleted. However, I put it in sport mode, and that took care of it. I was in comfort previously.”
Later on he said it felt “taller”, but the context seemed to indicate it was a good thing
I know it’s weird but you can feel every 1/4” of height addition. Every bit really does count lol, no diddy.
@MTKID , what size BL did you install on Jason's rig? I presume 1.5"?
This is something I was really keyed in on. Like you, I can feel every bit of suspension lift, with dynamics and CG.
Because of that, I only BL lifted 0.75". Happy to report after putting it through the ringer this weekend over super tight mountain roads and 60MPH drifts in the desert washes, the BL lift had nominal impact. That's the best kind of lift IMO where additional clearance can be made, while keeping so much goodness in handling and CG. I'm trying to build my truck where I can have more clearance at normal height without having to resort to high mode as much. Normal has way better sidehill stability and puts down power better. While having high mode in the back pocket for more extreme clearance when needed.
This past weekend. Even with the RTT up top, stability was solid.
This is something I was really keyed in on. Like you, I can feel every bit of suspension lift, with dynamics and CG.
Because of that, I only BL lifted 0.75". Happy to report after putting it through the ringer this weekend over super tight mountain roads and 60MPH drifts in the desert washes, the BL lift had nominal impact. That's the best kind of lift IMO where additional clearance can be made, while keeping so much goodness in handling and CG. I'm trying to build my truck where I can have more clearance at normal height without having to resort to high mode as much. Normal has way better sidehill stability and puts down power better. While having high mode in the back pocket for more extreme clearance when needed.
This past weekend. Even with the RTT up top, stability was solid.
Yes, we did the 1.5” kit.
Which, in combination with taller tires, also gives you clearance without severe CV angles
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Give me some upskirt shots will you? If anything i may be simple enough to do this just for rear shock accessibility.
Side note. I actually test drove an R1S recently and was very, very happily surprised. Did you by any chance wheel it? What your thoughts?
There's not much to see from underneath but here's what the rearmost BM looks like with spacer puck in place. The R1S is a beast and is doing what many of the other rigs with serious mods are doing, stock. I haven't wheeled it myself but have rode in it. Power is unmatched and the suspension is doing well. He actually jumped it hard enough to rip out the wheel well cover on this trip!! One area where my rig easily does better is in deep and really steep sand. Weight puts the Rivian at a disadvantage, and the 275 narrows don't give it enough floatation.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
1” doesn’t help much, still not enough room to reach rear shock through the wheel well… and I just tried…
Ah! I was hoping the BL would help make accessing the rear shocks easier. O well.
Can I hope that it might reduce underbody temps and fuel boiling?
Can’t wait for a write up on either of these installs (.75” or 1.5”)
jfz80
Cruisin’
Can’t wait to see @Cruiserhead05 put his on first so I can see in person 
We will probably offer 1” and 1.5”. But it’s a lot to unpack, how to provide instructions and cover all the bases. I can’t be taking a ton of phone calls to answer questions when people don’t have any experience with body lifts. And I do appreciate good customer service, so I want to assist, just need to wrap my head around how much work it honestly is. It’s not for the faint of heart, but, at the same time it’s not rocket science either.
I’m probably just a little shell shocked about what I just did over the last four days. The body lift was only a portion of what I did for Jason.
I hope to start a specific thread for these soon. And Paul can share his experience and there can be a general place for specific questions that I may forget to include in the first set of instructions. It’s inevitable there will be a few.
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GTV
SILVER Star
100 owner here that lurks in the 200 section for the great tech
I chose a 1/2" BL because on the 100 it is straight forward and doesn't require any additional mods. That being said, it was still a big job. Not hard, there's just a lot to do so it took most of a day. Now I'm looking at replacing that with 1.5" because 37's. Cheers to you @MTKID for designing and engineering this!
It is no small feat. And explaining it to the less mechanically inclined is the biggest challenge of all.@MTKID Im curious are yall using airbags to install or what?
I know the subtank is going to shellshock me along with radiator next year so im trying to stack all the traumatic stress together and a 200 BBL (lol) is now seemingly being added to the mix. And if im feeling devilish a stupid supercharger for me to destroy my engine too.
This is giving me legit MADs though, Mod Anxiety Disorder.
I know the subtank is going to shellshock me along with radiator next year so im trying to stack all the traumatic stress together and a 200 BBL (lol) is now seemingly being added to the mix. And if im feeling devilish a stupid supercharger for me to destroy my engine too.
This is giving me legit MADs though, Mod Anxiety Disorder.
No, I simply used my floor Jack with an extension for the pinch seam or the bottle jack on top of the tire and a plate of steel to spread out that load in the upper inner fender well opening 
Jason Andrews
Modaholic
Thats just sidewall flex. Don't worry they make 37's for 22" rims too.
NoClue said:
looks like the falken wildpeak RT will come in 37x11.5x17. wish more tire companies would follow this trend!
At first thought yes. But I think it's more about "stance," - offset, and wheel width than purely tire width. I think 18's are probably my ideal balance for upscale looking and wheelability. However the drawbacks are that tire and wheel combo is probably 10lbs heavier than @MTKID's 40's. Also insane there isn't an RCV axle upgrade option.
If mine wasn't my tow rig I'd rock some 39x12.50 Kanati's and some wheel spacers. Walmart has the 37's of these for less than $250.
The more I think about a body lift, the more I like it. It may need its own thread.
Here are some considerations I haven't seen that are worthy of mention specific to LX's-
1. If it turns out you don't like the additional height when you aren't wheelin' or you want a lower profile while towing across the country and high winds, you can do a sensor lift delete and be back to close to pre BL height.
2. If its normally your preference to wheel your rig in High mode you may feel comfortable wheeling in normal and only using High when needed and thus increasing available down travel and comfort depending on the type of conditions.
3. If you want more "lift" but hate the 'stinkbug' you could adjust the rear bracket to dial down the amount of sensor lift for your tastes.
Bonus: If you did #1 you can show up to the trail and tell the Jeep guys you need to install your lift. Grab your 2 x 10mm wrenches and 4 minutes later you are ready for your first
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If those Kanati’s were around when I bought my 40’s, I would have tried them first primarily because of the narrower width, and I like their tread pattern. My friend picked up the 37” when Wal-Mart must have had a mistake on their website and sold them for $90 ea!
…But now that I’ve gotten onto 40x13.5, 42x13.5 don’t seem that difficult. And RCV’s are readily available for the tundra width. I have a set on the shelf. I just wish there was an upgrade for the rear shafts too.
I really wanted to start a new thread today for the NST Spec kit but I’ve just been so busy and I want it to get started with good clear content. Soon though!
First production run of radiator drop brackets should be done Monday.
…But now that I’ve gotten onto 40x13.5, 42x13.5 don’t seem that difficult. And RCV’s are readily available for the tundra width. I have a set on the shelf. I just wish there was an upgrade for the rear shafts too.
I really wanted to start a new thread today for the NST Spec kit but I’ve just been so busy and I want it to get started with good clear content. Soon though!
First production run of radiator drop brackets should be done Monday.
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Patiently awaiting the body lift thread.
