Im crossing fingers and toes that it all fits! I couldn’t find anyone with this set up so maybe it’s the Kai secret we’ve all been waiting for?? I have a UUCS, lift and trimmed bumpers. Wish me luck
A 200 is meant to have 37’s (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter LC200JG
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Hope to god they fit if not it’s a costly weekend
I’m sure they will fit… it’s just a matter of how much cutting you’re willing to doHope to god they fit if not it’s a costly weekend
I’m willing to cut awayI’m sure they will fit… it’s just a matter of how much cutting you’re willing to do
Hope it works out, but Tundras don’t have KDSS and their CVs and UCA/LCA are longer than a 200.
Yeah, I’m thinking there may be some differences. It’s likely work on a LX. . .
I also doubt the Kai's Tundra fitment is directly applicable.
Consider that the Tundra has the same frame width spacing as the 200-series. But its control arms are 1.5" longer per side. The Tundra will have more tire clearance against the frame, sway bar, and possibly the UCA. Narrow tires will help, but will likely still need more aggressive offsets.
It'll definitely need a body lift if keeping full travel.
Consider that the Tundra has the same frame width spacing as the 200-series. But its control arms are 1.5" longer per side. The Tundra will have more tire clearance against the frame, sway bar, and possibly the UCA. Narrow tires will help, but will likely still need more aggressive offsets.
It'll definitely need a body lift if keeping full travel.
Thank you for this • I was hoping that a lift and uucs might help just enough to make it work
Would love to see your rig on 37s and there are definitely things that can be simplified over my install with narrows and some other tweaks
It’ll work, just don’t turn
Is anyone here successfully running 37’s (and I’ll specify 37x12.5, until a more compelling skinny 37 hits the market) with KDSS? I do get a lot of questions because of the NST Spec kits and don’t recall seeing anyone doing 37’s without removing KDSS, but I may be overlooking someone. KDSS Max Relocation Kit seems to be just for 35’s (or maybe a tall 35-36” tire) if I recall in that thread 
I want to be sharing correct info if there is a way to keep KDSS without having the tires stick way outside of the fenders.
I want to be sharing correct info if there is a way to keep KDSS without having the tires stick way outside of the fenders.
Is anyone here successfully running 37’s (and I’ll specify 37x12.5, until a more compelling skinny 37 hits the market) with KDSS? I do get a lot of questions because of the NST Spec kits and don’t recall seeing anyone doing 37’s without removing KDSS, but I may be overlooking someone. KDSS Max Relocation Kit seems to be just for 35’s (or maybe a tall 35-36” tire) if I recall in that thread
I want to be sharing correct info if there is a way to keep KDSS without having the tires stick way outside of the fenders.
If you’ll send me a kit I’ll test this on a 2008 with 37s and 0 offset
I think kdss max and 0 offset and you can have 37s. As far as the kdss. Obviously other things come into play
With the standard 1” KDSSs relo my 35x11.5 Falken Wildpeak RT01 on +25 offset doesn’t rub anywhere, even at full bump stop compression. Everything else below here is a guess based on my setup and changes along the way though…
With an 1.5” extended KDSS relo kit you should be able to fit a 36x11.5 on +25 offset without hitting the KDSS arm. I can’t speak to the body mount but it’ll be close. My 35s make the lightest of contact on the thin rear aftermarket mud flaps so I’d expect some liner contact on full bump stop at least in the rear, maybe front too. And at some point fender contact just becomes inevitable so the NST body lift does become necessary but I don’t know if that’s at 36” or 37”.
37x11.5 on +25 offset I think would lightly contact the KDSS arm and require a BMC and the body lift. I’d expect some plastic liner contact and without a body lift would need extended bump stops. Going 12.5 wide will likely contact a bunch of stuff.
With an 1.5” extended KDSS relo kit you should be able to fit a 36x11.5 on +25 offset without hitting the KDSS arm. I can’t speak to the body mount but it’ll be close. My 35s make the lightest of contact on the thin rear aftermarket mud flaps so I’d expect some liner contact on full bump stop at least in the rear, maybe front too. And at some point fender contact just becomes inevitable so the NST body lift does become necessary but I don’t know if that’s at 36” or 37”.
37x11.5 on +25 offset I think would lightly contact the KDSS arm and require a BMC and the body lift. I’d expect some plastic liner contact and without a body lift would need extended bump stops. Going 12.5 wide will likely contact a bunch of stuff.
Thanks for bringing this question up @MTKID. I recognize that I am one of the people bugging you about it and I hope we get more people chiming in.Is anyone here successfully running 37’s (and I’ll specify 37x12.5, until a more compelling skinny 37 hits the market) with KDSS? I do get a lot of questions because of the NST Spec kits and don’t recall seeing anyone doing 37’s without removing KDSS, but I may be overlooking someone. KDSS Max Relocation Kit seems to be just for 35’s (or maybe a tall 35-36” tire) if I recall in that thread
I want to be sharing correct info if there is a way to keep KDSS without having the tires stick way outside of the fenders.
I'd like to throw out my current setup to see if anyone has thoughts as I am about 2 weeks away from going 37s.
Looks like my wheels have a 10mm offset. At this time I do NOT rub on my KDSS with 315/70R17 BFG KO2s. I do have 1.25" wheel spacers, but not installed. I wasn't sure if it would help or hurt the rubbing (still trying to digest Tinkerer's Adventure incredible info). With them, I understand they might make it worse for body rubbing but w/o might make it worse for rubbing on KDSS? I've got the 3" OME lift, front BMC, 1.5" NST body lift, SPC UCAs, and f&r aftermarket bumpers.
Just when I think I have a grip on a topic, I learn something new. I had always thought there was one KDSS relocation kit/size like Slee or Trail Tailor but now I see the word "max" being thrown around and I find Anderson Overland who is claiming "max". I have never heard of the Anderson and I'm not sure if there are others out there that I should consider. I also now need to understand the pros and cons of going 1" vs 1.5" relocation.
Even though Stellar Built is quoting me "maybe 3+ hours" to delete the KDSS, I'd need to get sway bars and if I got aftermarket like they did on their 2014 LC, they're saying $5-$6k to do those. Also on another MUD thread titled KDSS Delete, @empty80 does a very thorough writeup quoting about 22 hours of work.
Based on all that KDSS info and my own limited experience with the rusty KDSS on this 2013 from RI, I would rather do several things including cut (and roll) fenders, try the KDSS max kit (if I can confirm it will solve things), and/or even going to Tundra suspension if that would solve it. I would also be willing to go to a 37" or 38" tire with an 11.50 width if I had to and no other way to run a 12.50 width. Also interesting to note that The BFGoodrich KO2 in 315/70R17 (that I am currently running) is 0.2 inches wider than the Milestar Patagonia M/T-02 in 37x12.50R17 that I am planning on trying out. I should mention that a big reason I am wanting to try this Patagonia tire is because I have a friend who can get me a pretty killer deal on them and I would likely be trying to pick up 7 (2 for my offroading M101A2 trailer).
I think this is going to be your best bet. A lot of the other solutions can create more compromises performance/cost where it's 1 step forward and 2 steps back. The 1.75" longer Tundra arms will create an extra 1.75" clearance against the frame which is what you need to keep KDSS, while also enhancing geometry and gaining long travel.
Importantly, your existing +10mm wheels won't work well in the recipe for 37s with either LC or Tundra arms, as the swing will be dramatic creating a ton of clearance issues and work both forward (air injection pump) and rear (relocate body mount, major firewall surgery) and fenders. You'll want something more in the range of +35 to +50 (OEM wheels with 1" spacer or Rock Warriors). This will still likely need an aggressive roll of the fenders but would be worth the effort.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Building off of what @TeCKis300 mentioned, when considering a tundra swap, you may or may not address tie rods, and the aftermarket ones from coachbuilder require a specific wheel offset, which will need to be factored in. I think the vast majority of folks here run tundra OTRE, but they are also not on 37s.
I really appreciate your input here @TeCKis300. I can accept the first paragraph about switching out to Tundra suspension even though it's thousands of dollars and my budget is pretty tight right now. This last paragraph, I am having a hard time swallowing however. I spent many, many months searching for a wheel in my bolt pattern that had a removable rock ring that would protect my wheels. As I've said, I'd rather go 37 or 38x11.50 before that.
BUT it looks like the 37x12.50 are slightly more narrow than what I am running now and if I am not rubbing now, is there a chance I'd be okay?
I’ve run a +25mm offset with 35s on a tundra swapped front end. You’ll be in the fenders pretty much not matter what all the way around. It’s usable on low travel. If you want to stay within the fenders with the tundra swap the OEM 60mm offset is about as far as you go without needing extensive cutting or fender rolling.
In hindsight I probably would have avoided the tundra swap, focused on correct offset for tire size, KDSS relocation, and stuck with a more sensible tire size. I feel now that approach is more sound from a driving dynamics and parts selection perspective.
In hindsight I probably would have avoided the tundra swap, focused on correct offset for tire size, KDSS relocation, and stuck with a more sensible tire size. I feel now that approach is more sound from a driving dynamics and parts selection perspective.
I am hardly the voice of reason when it comes to dumb mod decisions, but as a fellow cruiser head—is it worth it for 1" more clearance given that both paths are pretty expensive and invasive to your build? I was 1,000% going to take on 37s and then I went to moab a few weeks ago and realized that I'm the weak link, not my rig.
Jason Andrews
Modaholic
I can’t speak to anything KDSS related since I’ve never even laid eyes on one. Having just switched from a 7.5” +25 with 37x12.50 ko2s to a 8.5” +10 36x11.50 toyo it does have more poke and may end up rubbing if I try to wheel it or when I inevitably tow 8500lbs. I thought my old setup would rub when I first put them on 3 years ago, but it was almost flawless.
I’ll say I think you could pull off a 37x11.50 the easiest. Having seen a 38x13.50 on a Tundra those things look absolutely MASSIVE! If you could pull off a 38 tall I’d be very impressed.
I know everyone hates on “limiting up travel” but I am a huge advocate of upgrading bump stops as part of my suspension upgrades. Especially when more lift is installed. Early engagement of bump stops can help control harsh landings while on the fast stuff while not limiting the overall uptravel when flexing off road. On the rear axle this is achieved by modifying the bump stops in the coil springs. When one side is articulating down and drooping the other is stuffing so there is no contact or limitation. When jumping railroad tracks or the like the factory in coil bumps will contact early and provide a progressive bump unlike the harsh frame mounted oem bumps.
The Timbren AOR bumps claim to not limit travel which I kind of scoffed at at first. Depends on how heavy your rig is and how you use it. I run Timbren AOR front and rear and have custom poly front front bumps and hockey pucks mounted to the rear bottom coil perches so they engage just after the Timbrens. I think a +10 puts you as far away from the body as possible without getting a ton of extra wag from too low of offset. Again I have no idea how much clearance you have now or the additional you would need but if there’s a will; there’s a way.
I chose to avoid the $2,000 alignment that would have made clearance problems worse and opted for the more expensive odd size tires that I thought I could fit instead.
