Outsane
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Is your top panhard bolt on that delta extension hitting the frame crossmember? Sure looks like it.
They do kiss
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Is your top panhard bolt on that delta extension hitting the frame crossmember? Sure looks like it.
Do you know the application or part # on this 70 series long bump stop?
Nice. I have a set of these for my 97. They are 1" taller then my stock rear frame bumps.48306-60160
I've never been a fan of the hard bounce of the 80 series bumpstops. Are the 70's series bumpstops softer?Nice. I have a set of these for my 97. They are 1" taller then my stock rear frame bumps.
View attachment 3073627
Not much at all. Just that it has 1" more rubber.I've never been a fan of the hard bounce of the 80 series bumpstops. Are the 70's series bumpstops softer?
No one seems to do this, if you extend the frame bump stop the the coil bump stop need to be extended as well.
There Progressive bump stop like the Timberland and in stock form make contact first making for a much smoother hit.
I made my own the same hight as my frame bump stop extensions.
It really smoothed out the big hits.
It’s now set up the way Mr. T Intended.
I’m surprised GW nugget doesn’t mention this as he brought it to my attention
Timbrens on the rear for me as well. Pretty sure I took the idea from @Corbet Used the 100 series model and spaced it down with @Hitit66 frame bump spacer. Matches well with the 17.5” compressed shocks and 35s I run. The Timbrens basically are replacing both the stock frame bump and coil bumper. Waiting to get the Dobinsons rear hydro bumps when they are available.
I just put some Slee shocks on the 80 and I've been looking at different bump stop options. This fits exactly what I'd like to accomplish, simple and effective upgrade. Thanks for the pics. I just ordered the 100 series Timbrens, definitely a better fit with the shorter leg.
NICE!Timbrens on the rear for me as well. Pretty sure I took the idea from @Corbet Used the 100 series model and spaced it down with @Hitit66 frame bump spacer. Matches well with the 17.5” compressed shocks and 35s I run. The Timbrens basically are replacing both the stock frame bump and coil bumper. Waiting to get the Dobinsons rear hydro bumps when they are available.
View attachment 3074008
The picture below is bone stock. See how the cone bump & hard frame bump are horizontally even.No one seems to do this, if you extend the frame bump stop the the coil bump stop need to be extended as well.
There Progressive bump stop like the Timberland and in stock form make contact first making for a much smoother hit.
I made my own the same hight as my frame bump stop extensions.
It really smoothed out the big hits.
It’s now set up the way Mr. T Intended.
I’m surprised GW nugget doesn’t mention this as he brought it to my attention
Those look like a great option if you didn't have access to a welder. I had the "normal" 80 series Timbrens with the uber tall rear towers. I cut them down and rewelded to about 3" from the frame to where the rubber starts. So maybe a bit taller than yours. Has worked great with the 37's and being airborne a few times.Timbrens on the rear for me as well. Pretty sure I took the idea from @Corbet Used the 100 series model and spaced it down with @Hitit66 frame bump spacer. Matches well with the 17.5” compressed shocks and 35s I run. The Timbrens basically are replacing both the stock frame bump and coil bumper. Waiting to get the Dobinsons rear hydro bumps when they are available.
View attachment 3073728View attachment 3074008
Yep Adam, I wish I knew how to weld. A bit cleaner end product for sure with less moving parts to potentially fail. I don’t really know where Timbren came up with the spec to run such an extended bump tower. How did you determine the amount to cut out (height of the metal tower)?Those look like a great option if you didn't have access to a welder. I had the "normal" 80 series Timbrens with the uber tall rear towers. I cut them down and rewelded to about 3" from the frame to where the rubber starts. So maybe a bit taller than yours. Has worked great with the 37's and being airborne a few times.
The bottom of the tower is roughly even with the bottom of the stock "in the coil" bumpstop on my setup.
Stage 5 Slinky by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
I don’t know if it’s that cut and dry. Shock length, wheel offset, flare trimming, axle location, body height all add into different spacing lengths.So the verdict is running front 80 series bumpstops (with minor trimming to avoid coil contact) and 100 series rear bumpstops?
80 on 35s 3” lift.
My bad. I meant 100 series with the typical 2” 80 extension block. Stock wheels, no spacers, Dobs MRA 4-6” (lift) long travel shocks with VT coilsI don’t know if it’s that cut and dry. Shock length, wheel offset, flare trimming, axle location, body height all add into different spacing lengths.
I can say for sure that you should not run the 100 series (TORSEQ) rear bumps without any additional spacing as they are way too short even at stock height suspension.
For stock rear frame bump stops, I conservatively recommend to lower bumps 1.5" for 35s & 2.5" for 37s.My bad. I meant 100 series with the typical 2” 80 extension block. Stock wheels, no spacers, Dobs MRA 4-6” (lift) long travel shocks with VT coils