Rear Bump Stop Types

Broski

I love Wheelin my 80
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I asked this question earlier... maybe you all missed it. Calling on @Shoredreamer @woody @Box Rocket @Kabanstva or whoever.
What I would say is that theirs a reason the frame bump stops are of a harder rubber. and why the coil bump stop is softer progressive style!!
IMHO the softer coil bump stop is designed and set up the make first contact softening the blow, the harder solid rubber frame bump stop is there to make sure that the softer coil bump stop does not get overwhelmed and to take the super hard hit some have asked about.

Again IMHO @bwesty set up post 56 is all wrong. The Coil bump stops are now there just for looks and theirs no hard rubber frame bump stop to take the hard hits the way Mr T designed them !!
Also with bwesty set up during slow speed technical crawling articulation and up travel could be limited as the inertia force may not be enough to compress the timbren's.
When set up correctly the hard rubber frame bump stops keep the tires for making contact with the wheel wells while still allowing full articulation and the coil softer progressive style bump stop soften the blow on the hard hits.

In short Mr T spent a lot of time and money figuring all of this out. and short of going full custom ( air bump, coilover shocks and custom links ) it best to go with what MrT engineers designed.

So if you are running bigger tires and a lift ( most of us are ) the best way to set it up is to remove the coils, leave the shock on then fully articulate the axle tell the tires start to make contact then back it down a 1/2" then space you hard rubber frame stop down to this point. Then space down the coil bump stop the same amount ;)

If you heart is set on running the timbern's mount them in the coils where the progressive bump stop were designed to go 🤷‍♂️

Just Sayin :cool:
 

bwesty

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So you must have the Active Bumpstop model ABSTORSEQ if yours compress easily and yours came with the steel cup. Have you gotten to try them out much? Is the softer rubber and compression hood for your setup?View attachment 3086289
I have pretty much the same spacing setup but I’m on their harder rubber TORSEQ model. I have a very heavy 80 so it’s working great for me.View attachment 3086290
Yes I have the ABSTORSEQ model.
What I would say is that theirs a reason the frame bump stops are of a harder rubber. and why the coil bump stop is softer progressive style!!
IMHO the softer coil bump stop is designed and set up the make first contact softening the blow, the harder solid rubber frame bump stop is there to make sure that the softer coil bump stop does not get overwhelmed and to take the super hard hit some have asked about.

Again IMHO @bwesty set up post 56 is all wrong. The Coil bump stops are now there just for looks and theirs no hard rubber frame bump stop to take the hard hits the way Mr T designed them !!
Also with bwesty set up during slow speed technical crawling articulation and up travel could be limited as the inertia force may not be enough to compress the timbren's.
When set up correctly the hard rubber frame bump stops keep the tires for making contact with the wheel wells while still allowing full articulation and the coil softer progressive style bump stop soften the blow on the hard hits.

In short Mr T spent a lot of time and money figuring all of this out. and short of going full custom ( air bump, coilover shocks and custom links ) it best to go with what MrT engineers designed.

So if you are running bigger tires and a lift ( most of us are ) the best way to set it up is to remove the coils, leave the shock on then fully articulate the axle tell the tires start to make contact then back it down a 1/2" then space you hard rubber frame stop down to this point. Then space down the coil bump stop the same amount ;)

If you heart is set on running the timbern's mount them in the coils where the progressive bump stop were designed to go 🤷‍♂️

Just Sayin :cool:
@Broski is correct. After testing and looking closer at this it's not going to work as designed given the multiple bump stops and points of contact.
I will be adjusting the drop of the frame mounted stop and maybe looking at a firmer rubber too.
 
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I agree with what you’re saying @Broski The worst thing you can do, and what probably most of all lifted 80s have, is to space down your frame bump stop and leave the coil bumper at stock height. That coil bumper, which in stock form takes the majority of the force since it contacts in 1.25” before the hard frame bump, is now useless and will never contact anything. And if so, hardly taking in much force. All the force will go to your very hard frame stops.
3019FEF2-48ED-438A-97C6-B589AC9E3A2F.jpeg

The way I have mine setup with a firmer SES rubber Timbren bump on the frame mount, the Timbrens are basically doing double duty, since they can absorb a lot of weight and give a soft bottom out with no hard hit. You could very well space down the factory coil bumpstop to do the same job I believe. I’ve had this setup on my 80 for about 4 years now over thousands of miles of high speed desert washboards (inherent g outs and hard hits along the way) as well as plenty of other trails and highways, mountains.

Timbren advertises these as to help with towing and maybe sounds like they’d be less than ideal, or even inhibit off road function but I’ve found that not to be the case with what I do and how my 80 is setup. Heavy, touring style travel.
 
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A bumpstop is a bumpstop. What I mean by that is it doesn't really matter if its your progressive bumpstop inside the coil or a hard frame mounted bumpstop or a progressive timbren, a hard poly bumpstop, or a fancy air bump. The whole purpose is to add some kind of cushion to a bottom-out and stop the suspension from compressing too far and destroying shocks or having tires hit the body. Any one of those bumpstops can do that job. If some kind of frame bumpstop is doing the job its meant to do and the one inside the coil hasn't been spaced down and is useless, it doesn't really matter, right? You could remove the inside the coil bumpstop if you wanted if you had another type of progressive bumpstop. I've actually been thinking about removing mine but I have been too lazy to remove the springs and everything else to get to them.

I've been running my Timbrens for a couple years now and they have softened bottom outs more than the stock progressive ones in the coil did. As they compress they become stiffer until they can't compress further (essentially the same as a factory hard rubber bumpstop) to stop the tires from hitting or damaging shocks.
 

Broski

I love Wheelin my 80
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I’m sure your setup works well Adam😉
Just wanted to point out that you can get good results by spacing down both Sets of OEM bump stops without having to by aftermarket bump stops.
 

GW Nugget

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Both @Box Rocket and @Broski are both correct from their prospective view point & style of use of their 80 series.
Adam/Box Rocket runs fast pace desert style of use, I could see the need for softer frame bumps because hitting washouts at angles would require one bump stop to take the full blunt force trauma of an 6K plus rig at speed. A stock OE bump stop is not engineered from from Mr. T to do that.
Broski's use is a slower pace crawl type that needs as much up travel as possible with the least amount of restriction. But....but I have see you Richard catch about 5 feet of airtime at Pismo dunes. :steer: o_O A front set of Timbres would serve you well in that situation. (granted if they would fit with your truss, would have to measure).
 

GW Nugget

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I have pretty much the same spacing setup but I’m on their harder rubber TORSEQ model. I have a very heavy 80 so it’s working great for me.
Wow, just read this... So you have the SES #TORSEQ uses #A550-65 spring, 11,500# bump capacity AEON spring.
11.5K cap sounds a bit firm... o_O
 

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