Rear Bump Stop Types

GW Nugget

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After looking at that video a few times... I would assume the coil cone bump is doing a lot of the work rather then the Kong especially if the axle is going strait up & down.
what is free height & closed/crushed measurements of the Kong.
What size tires are you running?
~~~~~~~~
I Emailed Timbren & got specs for the 80 series AOR bumps.
3.75 free/1.5" compressed/deflected
The front bracket is 1.25" tall.

20220809_205551.jpg
 
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lumbee1

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GW Nugget

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lumbee1

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GW Nugget

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I've never been a fan of the hard bounce of the 80 series bumpstops. Are the 70's series bumpstops softer?
Not much at all. Just that it has 1" more rubber.
The square tube is 2"
Screenshot_20220720-222647.png

These are the rear Timbrens for an 80. Way to tall, the bracket appears to be just under 4.5" tall & needs to be cut down for anything under a 40" tires. (I believe BoxRocket cut his down to 3")
Screenshot_20220720-222050.jpg
 
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Broski

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No one seems to do this, if you extend the frame bump stop the the coil bump stop need to be extended as well.
There Progressive bump stop like the Timberland and in stock form make contact first making for a much smoother hit.
I made my own the same hight as my frame bump stop extensions.
It really smoothed out the big hits.
It’s now set up the way Mr. T Intended.
I’m surprised GW nugget doesn’t mention this as he brought it to my attention
 

Outsane

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@Broski Great info.. I should probably lower the oem bump

I am trying to control a hard uptravel movement into something that is not going to unsettle the vehicle and also not bottom out the shocks.

I also do not want the bump stops to be engaged during normal driving conditions. Hope fully the shock and coils can handle that. I have seen some bump stop set ups less then an inch away from engagement.

It's all work in progress, I do want to raise the rear a little too, there is some stink bug.
 
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No one seems to do this, if you extend the frame bump stop the the coil bump stop need to be extended as well.
There Progressive bump stop like the Timberland and in stock form make contact first making for a much smoother hit.
I made my own the same hight as my frame bump stop extensions.
It really smoothed out the big hits.
It’s now set up the way Mr. T Intended.
I’m surprised GW nugget doesn’t mention this as he brought it to my attention

I've been looking into that, was thinking about just bolting a spacer to the bottom coil bucket on the axle.
 
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Timbrens on the rear for me as well. Pretty sure I took the idea from @Corbet :cheers:Used the 100 series model and spaced it down with @Hitit66 frame bump spacer. Matches well with the 17.5” compressed shocks and 35s I run. The Timbrens basically are replacing both the stock frame bump and coil bumper. Waiting to get the Dobinsons rear hydro bumps when they are available.

65F36A16-EAE5-4812-899A-8425BE6CCB12.jpeg
E87E7627-7D1C-4FA5-B9D5-DC23961B78A9.jpeg
 

bwesty

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Timbrens on the rear for me as well. Pretty sure I took the idea from @Corbet :cheers:Used the 100 series model and spaced it down with @Hitit66 frame bump spacer. Matches well with the 17.5” compressed shocks and 35s I run. The Timbrens basically are replacing both the stock frame bump and coil bumper. Waiting to get the Dobinsons rear hydro bumps when they are available.

@Corbet @Shoredreamer
I just put some Slee shocks on the 80 and I've been looking at different bump stop options. This fits exactly what I'd like to accomplish, simple and effective upgrade. Thanks for the pics. I just ordered the 100 series Timbrens, definitely a better fit with the shorter leg.
 

GW Nugget

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Timbrens on the rear for me as well. Pretty sure I took the idea from @Corbet :cheers:Used the 100 series model and spaced it down with @Hitit66 frame bump spacer. Matches well with the 17.5” compressed shocks and 35s I run. The Timbrens basically are replacing both the stock frame bump and coil bumper. Waiting to get the Dobinsons rear hydro bumps when they are available.

View attachment 3074008
NICE!:smokin::steer:
I never thought about the 100 series kit. Since the set for an 80 series rear are for 40" tires this might be the non cutting welding way to go.
Also a set of front 80 series might work also with them having an offset to be able to retain the bell portion.
Here is a thread on the 100 series bumps.
No one seems to do this, if you extend the frame bump stop the the coil bump stop need to be extended as well.
There Progressive bump stop like the Timberland and in stock form make contact first making for a much smoother hit.
I made my own the same hight as my frame bump stop extensions.
It really smoothed out the big hits.
It’s now set up the way Mr. T Intended.
I’m surprised GW nugget doesn’t mention this as he brought it to my attention
The picture below is bone stock. See how the cone bump & hard frame bump are horizontally even.
What I'm trying to say is if you lower your frame bump 2" then you need to lower the cone bump 2" also to keep it within OE spec.
This allows both to work together the way it was designed by Mr. Toyota.
Screenshot_20220731-200436.jpg

Stock bump very roughly compressed is 2.5" tall.
This is to help with the math to figure how much to drop for your application.
Screenshot_20220731-202204.jpg
 
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Timbrens on the rear for me as well. Pretty sure I took the idea from @Corbet :cheers:Used the 100 series model and spaced it down with @Hitit66 frame bump spacer. Matches well with the 17.5” compressed shocks and 35s I run. The Timbrens basically are replacing both the stock frame bump and coil bumper. Waiting to get the Dobinsons rear hydro bumps when they are available.

View attachment 3073728View attachment 3074008
Those look like a great option if you didn't have access to a welder. I had the "normal" 80 series Timbrens with the uber tall rear towers. I cut them down and rewelded to about 3" from the frame to where the rubber starts. So maybe a bit taller than yours. Has worked great with the 37's and being airborne a few times. :)

The bottom of the tower is roughly even with the bottom of the stock "in the coil" bumpstop on my setup.
Stage 5 Slinky by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
 

Kabanstva

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So the verdict is running front 80 series bumpstops (with minor trimming to avoid coil contact) and 100 series rear bumpstops?

80 on 35s 3” lift.
 
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Those look like a great option if you didn't have access to a welder. I had the "normal" 80 series Timbrens with the uber tall rear towers. I cut them down and rewelded to about 3" from the frame to where the rubber starts. So maybe a bit taller than yours. Has worked great with the 37's and being airborne a few times. :)

The bottom of the tower is roughly even with the bottom of the stock "in the coil" bumpstop on my setup.
Stage 5 Slinky by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Yep Adam, I wish I knew how to weld. A bit cleaner end product for sure with less moving parts to potentially fail. I don’t really know where Timbren came up with the spec to run such an extended bump tower. How did you determine the amount to cut out (height of the metal tower)?
 
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So the verdict is running front 80 series bumpstops (with minor trimming to avoid coil contact) and 100 series rear bumpstops?

80 on 35s 3” lift.
I don’t know if it’s that cut and dry. Shock length, wheel offset, flare trimming, axle location, body height all add into different spacing lengths.

I can say for sure that you should not run the 100 series (TORSEQ) rear bumps without any additional spacing as they are way too short even at stock height suspension.
 

Kabanstva

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I don’t know if it’s that cut and dry. Shock length, wheel offset, flare trimming, axle location, body height all add into different spacing lengths.

I can say for sure that you should not run the 100 series (TORSEQ) rear bumps without any additional spacing as they are way too short even at stock height suspension.
My bad. I meant 100 series with the typical 2” 80 extension block. Stock wheels, no spacers, Dobs MRA 4-6” (lift) long travel shocks with VT coils
 

GW Nugget

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My bad. I meant 100 series with the typical 2” 80 extension block. Stock wheels, no spacers, Dobs MRA 4-6” (lift) long travel shocks with VT coils
For stock rear frame bump stops, I conservatively recommend to lower bumps 1.5" for 35s & 2.5" for 37s.
Also knowing a stock frame bump will be approx. 2.5" tall when compressed.
We also now know how tall the Timbren AOR bump stop is when compressed is 1.5" compressed.
Now we do simple math... for the AOR bump stop to equal the OE stock bump would need a bracket 1" tall.
I know the 80 series front AOR bracket is 1.25" tall.
@Shoredreamer how tall is the Timbren 100 series rear bracket. (looks like 1.5" to me)
~~~
Edited later: the 100 series rear bracket is 1.25" tall. So in a nutshell the the 100 series rear AOR is .25" taller than stock 93-97 bump stop.
 
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