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Looks like they are going to fit and clear all the important parts like calipers.
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Going to get them cleaned up and Cerakote them silver now.
 
no just hoping you were on to something cool , i am leaning towards 17s . to fix my brake overheat . i found some 17 shells and may just make another set of factory look wheels .

You widened a set of 15"s, eh?
Let me know if you need a new home for them...
 
That a Wheel Vintiques??? Looks good.

US Wheel Bob.


Summit Racing has a "Custom Order" option and you can have these built how you want for right around $100 a wheel delivered. Good option if you want to experiment with a width or non-standard back space and get the wheel quickly without breaking the bank.

 
No slots for air flow, eh?
These are 17" narrow rims with a decent air gap and I don't see a need for small slots at the outer ends of the face.

Looking at the City Racer wheel slots I suppose they would allow some hot air to escape at reset but doubt they would do much when moving.
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At any rate I've never had a brake fade issue with my current wheels and if I have one with the new wheels I'll report back, anyone that's driven with me on mountain roads knows I carry quite a bit of speed and it wont take much time to find a problem if I'm going to have one.
 
This might help you see the difference in wheel construction and why these wheels have a large air gap on the back side.

On the “factory” style wheels the center section rolls back and crowds around the caliper, on a 15” wheel this is a close fit to the point that it limits your caliper options and I would bet hold quite a bit of heat.

On the US wheels the center section goes straight out to the point where it attaches to the outer and this creates a bit more of an air gap not to mention the extra 1” for the 17” rims.

Hope this helps you visualize what I’m talking about TJ.
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These are 17" narrow rims with a decent air gap and I don't see a need for small slots at the outer ends of the face.

Looking at the City Racer wheel slots I suppose they would allow some hot air to escape at reset but doubt they would do much when moving.
IMG_0409_1024x1024.JPG


At any rate I've never had a brake fade issue with my current wheels and if I have one with the new wheels I'll report back, anyone that's driven with me on mountain roads knows I carry quite a bit of speed and it wont take much time to find a problem if I'm going to have one.
Yes he does move at a pace my stock pig could only dream of!
 
Volkswagen style clips showed up today and they are a bust, the material is too brittle and with just a little tweaking they crack. Not going to spend a bunch of time trying to make these work only to be disappointed when they start breaking.

Off to come up with a new plan to secure hubcaps!
 
Hey Jim,

I've got a bag of the VW clips I never used, you can have them if wanted. I don't know if they're the same as yours, though.
 
I did the vw junk also, no go. Try these out from ebay. I used them on my splits rims. I also cut a center section out of an old fj40 wheel t use as a template to drill the holes. I can mail that to ya if needed. I used something very similar to these.
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Mike
 
Thank you @mmcinnis and @scrapdaddy but I'm leaning towards going back to plan "A" and just bolting them on. If you know anything about me you know I can turn a simple 10 minute job into a long drawn out redesign and I really only bought these wheels and tires to see if I'm going to like the look of 17" wheels and hubcaps.
If it doesn't look terrible I'll probably get some custom wheels built.
 
FYI for anyone wanting to try these wheels the @dogfishlake method would totally work if you have US wheel install their clips at the time you order the wheels. I believe it adds $30.00 to the cost of the wheel.

I was in a hurry and not clear on what Dogfish had done to combine the two caps so I didn’t have US wheel install their clips thinking I could do something quickly here, but in hindsight it’s not as straight forward once you get all the parts required sitting together and looking at the spacing.



Maybe when @fj55-100 is ready I’ll order a single wheel in the size and back space he wants and try the Dog Fish method on that wheel.
 
I converted a 3Jaw chuck I had laying around to fit on my rotary table so I could drill the hubcaps and wheels the same (3x9.25") in the hope that the caps will spin true'ish.

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No flat spots on the cap but I think I can make this work.
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I'll put three screws per cap and hope for the best
 
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