Builds Zeke, the 1975 Wanderer and DD

[120mm]

I can't position the camera to see the valves. Assuming my next step is to put the head and look at it for a potential head rebuild

 

[J Mack]

Assuming my next step is to

do a leak down test.

 

[120mm]

I guess I don't understand the purpose of a leak down test in this situation.

At this point, it's either the valves or the cylinder.

And since I put some oil down the cylinder and it still reads 50 psi....

I was experiencing none of the symptoms of a blown head gasket or cracked block.

And I just fried the DUI which I am going to discard anyway, and really don't want to replace it just so I can get the engine to operating temperature and then chuck it out anyway.

 

[J Mack]

I guess I don't understand the purpose of a leak down test in this situation.

At this point, it's either the valves or the cylinder.

in simple terms, if it's blowing air out of the breather or dipstick tube pull the engine, if it's blowing air out of the exhaust or carburetor pull the head.
You can buy leak down testers for under $30, most auto parts stores around me will rent them to you for a few bucks.
Will help you formulate a plan with some degree of certainty.

 

[120mm]

in simple terms, if it's blowing air out of the breather or dipstick tube pull the engine, if it's blowing air out of the exhaust or carburetor pull the head.
You can buy leak down testers for under $30, most auto parts stores around me will rent them to you for a few bucks.
Will help you formulate a plan with some degree of certainty.

My point is, I'd pull the head anyway, as long as I planned to rebuild whatever's wrong.

How reliable would a leak down test be with the engine cold?

 

[J Mack]

My point is, I'd pull the head anyway,

Why?

 

[120mm]

Why?

Because it would need to be done if either a rebuild, or a head job were necessary.

 

[J Mack]

Because it would need to be done if either a rebuild, or a head job were necessary.

It would "need" to be done if the head is bad!

 

[120mm]

It would "need" to be done if the head is bad!

My point is that all engine rebuilds require head rebuild. It would be foolish to redo the top and bottom end without valve job and stem seals.

 

[J Mack]

My point is that all engine rebuilds require head rebuild. It would be foolish to redo the top and bottom end without valve job and stem seals.

Not necessarily true.
All heads that need to be rebuilt need to be rebuilt, if this head is still doing its job then rebuilding this head won't solve your issue.
If it was me I would want to know with some degree of certainly what the issue is before I start ripping the engine apart. Assumptions is never a good starting point.
Good luck and take lots of pictures, we like pictures!

 

[120mm]

Welp, you've convinced me to do a leak down test. Will look into acquiring the correct tool tomorrow.

 

[bobm]

Diesel

 

[PabloCruise]

This combined with doing some judicious work on the carb eliminated the gassy smell I was having in the cabin, especially with the rear window down. Much, MUCH better driving experience, now.

Gassy smell in the cabin - check in the back cargo panels. You may have a vapor separator, and it may have a plastic check valve that cracked and is shedding gasoline vapors.

Or you may not! My issue was so bad it made it easy to find.

Congrats on retirement!!!

 

[PabloCruise]

My point is that all engine rebuilds require head rebuild. It would be foolish to redo the top and bottom end without valve job and stem seals.

I think @J Mack point is if you only need head work, then that is good knowledge to have up front.
If the rings are fried - again good knowledge to have, and as you said above, the head is coming out with the engine.
In my mind, knowing more always costs less! The more initial diagnostics you can do ahead of time will at least save you time in planning and buying parts!

 

[120mm]

Gassy smell in the cabin - check in the back cargo panels. You may have a vapor separator, and it may have a plastic check valve that cracked and is shedding gasoline vapors.

Or you may not! My issue was so bad it made it easy to find.

Congrats on retirement!!!

Zeke's smell was obvious incomplete ignition of fuel. That and the fact the exhaust pipe was ideally situated to feed it right back into the back window when open.

I'm keeping the exhaust location dumping it out before the rear axle: It appears to do a good job of making exhaust go out and not come back in.

 

[120mm]

I think @J Mack point is if you only need head work, then that is good knowledge to have up front.
If the rings are fried - again good knowledge to have, and as you said above, the head is coming out with the engine.
In my mind, knowing more always costs less! The more initial diagnostics you can do ahead of time will at least save you time in planning and buying parts!

The one issue I still have with doing the leak down check as is/where is, is that I may get a wrong diagnosis because the engine can't be warmed up.

 

[PabloCruise]

I'm thinking either to a) sell Zeke to get whatever I can from him and buy a cheaper, easier to maintain truck (thinking vintage Ford F1/100/150) or (b) pull the engine until I can afford the rebuild/new rebuilt engine and start welding up rust holes.

Looked at in financial terms only, I could buy a LOT of 1960s Ford F series that would cost 1/10th to maintain.

But money isn't everything, is it?

NOPE!

If the pig brings you happiness then you know what to do.
If it's getting to be a PITA then this could be a good time to sell, unfortunately the pigs that are bringing good money right now don't need new engines.

I tell you what, I have had some bad times wrenching, but I have never thrown out my back at the same time, and I am not in the age bracket where I am looking at retirement either.

Having said all that, I know that the privilege of being a Pig custodian is like the Led Zeppelin song Good Times/Bad Times. Some days you are the windshield, and some days you truly feel like the bug.

As @J Mack says up above, if the Pig brings you happiness, then you know what to do...

Good luck in your decision!

 

[PabloCruise]

Lots on the lake here

Just watch out for them snapping turtles!

 

[PabloCruise]

Have any experience with them?

Interesting they put a date range on 2F engines from 81-87, where some remanufacturers use 75-87 and some use 75-85/85-87 and treat those engines differently.

Does anyone know why? If I get part #842A, which is for a non-smog 2F, which is what mine is, do I get the right engine, or was there some major change in 81 that makes it not fit my 75?

Are those rebuilt forklift engines? Running propane makes for a nice clean engine inside.

Was '81 the cut from flat top to dome pistons? Or different combustion chamber for the head?

 

[J Mack]

The one issue I still have with doing the leak down check as is/where is, is that I may get a wrong diagnosis because the engine can't be warmed up.

If we are looking for exact numbers to compare to a manufactures specifications then yes your test would be flawed. We are just trying to locate the "leak" causing your low compression, put air to the cylinder, tap on the rocker arms at the valve springs with a rubber mallet and note the sound the air makes. We want to confirm you have a bad or stuck valve and not a bad or stuck compression ring "BEFORE" you pull the head.