Builds Zeke, the 1975 Wanderer and DD

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Gassy smell in the cabin - check in the back cargo panels. You may have a vapor separator, and it may have a plastic check valve that cracked and is shedding gasoline vapors.

Or you may not! My issue was so bad it made it easy to find.

Congrats on retirement!!!
Always a gassy smell 💩 in my cabin.
 
You want pics? I got yet pics ... ;)

Started derusting process today with an easy one.

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Then turned toward something a bit more serious.

My driver's side floor and body mount underneath are gone. Decided to find out why, and as I brought the hose out, it started raining buckets.

One reason these rigs rust so bad is that the design encourages it. Instead of the bad cowl, turns out it is just a grommet.

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I didn't fiddle with an actual leak down test, esp since the threading was wrong on the POS cheap Chinese leak down kit I bought.

All I did was hook some shop air into the hose that I was able to cross thread lightly into the spark plug hole, and the air happily flowed from the tail pipe.

Looks like I have a bad exhaust valve, which tracks with all the symptoms I've noted so far.

I staked the valve with a soft hammer, and it didn't fix the issue.

So... Looks like I need to pull the head anyway.
 
Welp, stuff just got real. Like working on a tractor, except for the razor sharp apron ya gotta lean over.

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This picture isn't the greatest, but it took about a minute to goop some 3M adhesive/gasket maker on the edges of the two leak points. If I'd have done this when I got the rig 4 years ago, my damage wouldn't have been even slightly as much.
 
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Easily so.

I removed the offending exhaust valve and found the seat was in good shape, so I'm going to get a new valve, lap it in and drive on.
I was curious if you were going to just do the one. I wouldn't be able to stop at one if I was in this far.
 
I'm going to check them all out and replace the seals.

The new head gasket literally comes with valve stem seals.
Just checking a few prices, it looks like new Toyota valves, springs, seats, retainers, etc. would run less than $500.
 
I was curious if you were going to just do the one. I wouldn't be able to stop at one if I was in this far.

Something to think about. Over the years I've seen where I'd do a total head (s) rebuild on a worn motor then it would cause blow by from the piston rings. This would start the journey down the rabbit hole ending in a full motor rebuild. If just considering a quick fix then by all means do just the one valve. Decision time, full rebuild, quick fix and sell, better crack a beer and take your time.
 
Something to think about. Over the years I've seen where I'd do a total head (s) rebuild on a worn motor then it would cause blow by from the piston rings. This would start the journey down the rabbit hole ending in a full motor rebuild. If just considering a quick fix then by all means do just the one valve. Decision time, full rebuild, quick fix and sell, better crack a beer and take your time.
I think you've captured the philosophy of what I'm after.

I'm going to get it back running again and see how long it lasts. Now I'm rethinking the EFI.

What if I put more effort into getting that Downey conversion to work better?
 
Where are you finding new Toyota valves?




 
Something to think about. Over the years I've seen where I'd do a total head (s) rebuild on a worn motor then it would cause blow by from the piston rings. This would start the journey down the rabbit hole ending in a full motor rebuild. If just considering a quick fix then by all means do just the one valve. Decision time, full rebuild, quick fix and sell, better crack a beer and take your time.
That’s a mighty big leap on a 2F, have replaced several HGs and never had to touch again. Bottom end on a Toyota is going to be $2.5k before you blink …

Get a good shop to work the head and plane it, new Toyota gasket & valve seals. It will last longer than you’ll own the rig.

Tucker

*edit: obviously want to check for scoring or lip, I’d present Scraps is spot on
 
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