Builds Wyoming 1994 FZJ80 Build (4 Viewers)

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Super nice rig ! And great find.
IMO it’s not a poverty pack. Cloth seats and no fake wood is a nice find but doesn’t make it a poverty pack.
I agree with broski on both accounts! Beautiful truck!

Not to start an argument but a poverty truck has no moonroof, non-sliding rear windows, no third row seats, and has a “rubberized” steering wheel, along with cloth seats. I think the door cards are different as well. There are probably more differences but that’s all I can think of right now. I can look when I get to work on Monday because we have a 97 poverty sitting at the shop. The 97 poverty pack trucks are pretty rare in the states.
 
I agree with broski on both accounts! Beautiful truck!

Not to start an argument but a poverty truck has no moonroof, non-sliding rear windows, no third row seats, and has a “rubberized” steering wheel, along with cloth seats. I think the door cards are different as well. There are probably more differences but that’s all I can think of right now. I can look when I get to work on Monday because we have a 97 poverty sitting at the shop. The 97 poverty pack trucks are pretty rare in the states.
To my knowledge the poverty pack also would not have the roof rack, rear spoiler or wheel flairs.
In some cases manual windows & door locks and I believe clear glass ( no factory tent )
Again beautiful truck that I would love to own !!
 
Alright now...this is turning into a "put a dollar in for 30 seconds more" type of show... :rofl:

Awesome build as said before that just keeps getting better. Slider wise, you can't go wrong with either, but I know for sure that I've beat the :poop: out of my White Knuckles and they still look like new except for a few rash scrapes underneath.

And I'm sure that @Delta VS would be happy to help you pick the right arms...I have the 3's, but may go 3L if I bump to 37's...the 3's seem perfect with a similar lift as yours and 315's, but I may need more clearance with the 37's.

Also, love that you are keeping some of the OG parts such as stereo and wheels...:steer:. My head unit was already upgraded on mine and then further with a Sony touch screen by me...but I love the 80 wheels...I run either these or the LX450's depending on where I am with tire preference and what is mounted to each at the time. Its tough finding the 16" in 37's, but they are out there...just not much on the Marketplace Ap where I seemed to find great deals on my 2 sets of 315's.

And lucky you being relatively close to @cruiseroutfit ... I've only had the pleasure of mail order, but always a great experience with parts availability, delivery time, and tech help on the phone with questions. :wrench::wrench:
I'll reach out to @landcruiserjunky and see if he has any left.

I also love the look of the stock wheels, but I have to admit I have a set of Icon Rebound Pro in titanium I plan to use with 37s coming soon. Going to install with some Apex valves for fast deflation. I have the same setup on my 200 and they have been great. I may mount up some ATs to my stock wheels for winter driving.
Super nice rig ! And great find.
IMO it’s not a poverty pack. Cloth seats and no fake wood is a nice find but doesn’t make it a poverty pack.
thanks, I remember checking out your sweet rig at SAS 5! I was kinda joking about it being the poverty pack since it didn’t have the luxurious fake wood and leather. Since I prefer the cloth, to me it’s an upgrade.
 
I'll reach out to @landcruiserjunky and see if he has any left.

I also love the look of the stock wheels, but I have to admit I have a set of Icon Rebound Pro in titanium I plan to use with 37s coming soon. Going to install with some Apex valves for fast deflation. I have the same setup on my 200 and they have been great. I may mount up some ATs to my stock wheels for winter driving.

thanks, I remember checking out your sweet rig at SAS 5! I was kinda joking about it being the poverty pack since it didn’t have the luxurious fake wood and leather. Since I prefer the cloth, to me it’s an upgrade.
Love me some cloth seats !!
 
Current wheeling buddy: My 15 year old. All my kids have learned how to drive in a Land Cruiser, she’s the last one. Doesn’t matter which cruiser, she wants to be there. She’s hoping to drive the 80 when she gets her license. We’ll see 😂
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Epic scenery!

How much lift is the 146/7vt setup giving you now that she's all pimped out?
Yeah it's a decent place to live with this scenery. But it was -30 yesterday, so it has it's challenges.

I'll bet I lost 1/2" or so to settling. The ride got better after adding the rear bumper. I think it actually settled more in the front than rear. I was thinking about adding a front spacer. Instead, I installed the 3.5" lift springs in preparation for 37s and now it's not sagging in the front. Ordered the replacement springs from @cruiseroutfit Christmas Eve and they arrived shortly thereafter. A gift my wife didn't know she was giving me. She always knows exactly what I want.

Here it is the day after the 3.5 springs installed. Front 144VT and Rear 145VT. I was worried it would be stiff and I wouldn't like it as much because the 2.5 springs rode so nice. I think it is slightly firmer, but still very nice IMO.

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After installing the lift I removed the factory steps in preparation for some sliders. and added replacement factory mudflaps for a no running board set up. Now it seems I have way more clearance and the Iron man Radius arm brackets seem to hang down a lot since they are so visible. Didn't bother me much before.
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Mods on my 200 progressed much faster than I anticipated. So with it being pretty tricked out for longer trips, I decided I wanted to mod my 80 for trails that are maybe more difficult than I would want to take my 200 on - so 37s, sliders and some other armor goodies coming soon. Built to suit a slightly different purpose.

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Looking solid...I'd go with the Delta arms, probably the 3L, but interested to hear what they suggest if you go that route.

For the flaps, nice for dirt roads and light trails, but if you go ham on them on rougher terrain, take them off before the trip...ask me how I know!

And always funny how spouses didn't realize that they bought you just what you wanted! LOL!
 
Looking solid...I'd go with the Delta arms, probably the 3L, but interested to hear what they suggest if you go that route.

For the flaps, nice for dirt roads and light trails, but if you go ham on them on rougher terrain, take them off before the trip...ask me how I know!

And always funny how spouses didn't realize that they bought you just what you wanted! LOL!
She was getting after me last night. I texted her some some links to Valentines Day gift suggestions - a pretty nice 1987 FJ60 and an FJ45. She'd had a bad day, but it was the first time she's told me I have enough cruisers. 😂

Yeah I figured on a difficult trail i'd probably want to take the mudflaps off. I live on a long dirt road, so most of the time I want them. Very easy to remove though, so nbd.

I spoke to Delta, Dave suggested the 3L for me. Said it would be better with my lift than getting arms for 4" and having too much correction.

Some of these mods are hard to do. I loved this 80 in stock form so I hate to change it, but I also love the mods I've done...
 
I spoke to Delta, Dave suggested the 3L for me. Said it would be better with my lift than getting arms for 4" and having too much correction.
Well Dave's truck (unless he's updated it) is running the 6s with like 7 degrees of caster, so do as he says not as he does I guess. @Dirty Koala
said he just went to 6s too on a 3-4" lift. My tinfoil hat theory is that they advise OEM specs for legal reasons.

Check my post history I've spent way too much time rambling about this.

Either way, I would put the stock arms back in, get an alignment, then look at the numbers and decide what you want. Highly recommend not ordering anything until you do that. The alignment reading is free at Firestone unless you feel generous and tip the tech (I usually do). They don't charge unless they adjust things.

I drove my truck back to back with zero changes other than going from 2 to 3 degrees arms with 2.2 and ~4 degrees of caster- night and day diff in highway stability. Unless you have to have full time I'd just bite the bullet, part time, and set caster at >= 5°.
 
Well Dave's truck (unless he's updated it) is running the 6s with like 7 degrees of caster, so do as he says not as he does I guess. @Dirty Koala
said he just went to 6s too on a 3-4" lift. My tinfoil hat theory is that they advise OEM specs for legal reasons.

Check my post history I've spent way too much time rambling about this.

Either way, I would put the stock arms back in, get an alignment, then look at the numbers and decide what you want. Highly recommend not ordering anything until you do that. The alignment reading is free at Firestone unless you feel generous and tip the tech (I usually do). They don't charge unless they adjust things.

I drove my truck back to back with zero changes other than going from 2 to 3 degrees arms with 2.2 and ~4 degrees of caster- night and day diff in highway stability. Unless you have to have full time I'd just bite the bullet, part time, and set caster at >= 5°.
good info. Unfortunatley I am in a very small town and my last two alingments the local shop did had to be corrected by another shop in a larger city. I'll have to take it out of town and get an alignment done.
 
I'm not actually suggesting getting an alignment, just an alignment scan to tell you where you're at
Context is here- Compiling/comparing lift and caster data - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/compiling-comparing-lift-and-caster-data.1099600/#post-11978470

The folks at @Delta VS are the experts, but IDK why they'd recommend that set of arms unless you specifically said you didn't want to go to a DC shaft, part time, or risk vibes at highway speed.

The 3.5 VTs have a reputation for lifting a good inch above what they're advertised at. If you look at that spreadsheet you'll see folks with j springs and 4" arms at ~2.5 degrees of caster.

I predict the 3" arms with those coils are going to give you like 1-1.5 degrees which will be pretty draining on the highway. Unless you're willing to compromise on correction to keep your AWD with an OEM driveshaft, I'd just jump to the 5Ls, especially on 37s.

Maybe they'll chime in - they know a lot that I don't since they do this everyday. Your money, do what you want, it just sucks to drop $1500 then have your truck wander at speed.
 
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I'm not actually suggesting getting an alignment, just an alignment scan to tell you where you're at
Context is here- Compiling/comparing lift and caster data - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/compiling-comparing-lift-and-caster-data.1099600/#post-11978470

The folks at @Delta VS are the experts, but IDK why they'd recommend that set of arms unless you specifically said you didn't want to go to a DC shaft, part time, or risk vibes at highway speed.

The 3.5 VTs have a reputation for lifting a good inch above what they're advertised at. If you look at that spreadsheet you'll see folks with j springs and 4" arms at ~2.5 degrees of caster.

I predict the 3" arms with those coils are going to give you like 1-1.5 degrees which will be pretty draining on the highway. Unless you're willing to compromise on correction to your AWD with an OEM driveshaft, I'd just to the 5Ls, especially on 37s.

Maybe they'll chime in - they know a lot that I don't since they do this everyday. Your money, do what you want, it just sucks to drop $1500 then have your truck wander at speed.
Thank you. Good info.
 
The radius arm drop brackets correct the caster, anti dive, and roll steer. The Delta arms correct caster and (in the longer versions) shift the front axle forward to improve tire clearance at the back of the wheel wells. If you’re not dragging the drop brackets over the rocks the truck will handle better with drop brackets than with replacement arms. Drop brackets prioritize handling and on road manners and Delta arms prioritize ground clearance.
 
The radius arm drop brackets correct the caster, anti dive, and roll steer. The Delta arms correct caster and (in the longer versions) shift the front axle forward to improve tire clearance at the back of the wheel wells. If you’re not dragging the drop brackets over the rocks the truck will handle better with drop brackets than with replacement arms. Drop brackets prioritize handling and on road manners and Delta arms prioritize ground clearance.
Interesting thoughts and makes sense...for me, I'd be dragging the drop brackets all the time with the terrain here in the mid-atlantic mountains, so the Delta arms are my better choice. Maybe get your 37's and mount them up since you'll be using new wheels anyway...pop those on, and see what corrections you feel may be necessary for your driving conditions. Who knows, what you have may be just fine! Also, the planned sliders may take your eyes off of the newly exposed brackets if it's just a visual that bothers you where functionality is just fine. I've learned, and it seems like you are the same too, to do your mods based on your individual driving/wheeling needs. I love mine for the terrain that I drive, which looks totally different than your gorgeous landscape!

As far as alignment goes, it's a shame that a shop cannot even adjust the toe correctly as it's really the only adjustment possible on the 80...the rest of the readings are just informational and need aftermarket hardware to correct. Back in my high school days (late 80's) I used to do alignments at my dad's service station with a "state of the art" Hunter rack...it's really a no brainer with modern equipment. That said, I took my '03 Audi RS6 to the dealer for an alignment, and it came out driving like the lot porter did the corrections with a blindfold on...I actually had to go to a smaller town outside of Baltimore for a proper job by a specialty shop for a basic service.

Keep the updates flowing! Also, nice looking 200 too!
 
Interesting thoughts and makes sense...for me, I'd be dragging the drop brackets all the time with the terrain here in the mid-atlantic mountains, so the Delta arms are my better choice. Maybe get your 37's and mount them up since you'll be using new wheels anyway...pop those on, and see what corrections you feel may be necessary for your driving conditions. Who knows, what you have may be just fine! Also, the planned sliders may take your eyes off of the newly exposed brackets if it's just a visual that bothers you where functionality is just fine. I've learned, and it seems like you are the same too, to do your mods based on your individual driving/wheeling needs. I love mine for the terrain that I drive, which looks totally different than your gorgeous landscape!

As far as alignment goes, it's a shame that a shop cannot even adjust the toe correctly as it's really the only adjustment possible on the 80...the rest of the readings are just informational and need aftermarket hardware to correct. Back in my high school days (late 80's) I used to do alignments at my dad's service station with a "state of the art" Hunter rack...it's really a no brainer with modern equipment. That said, I took my '03 Audi RS6 to the dealer for an alignment, and it came out driving like the lot porter did the corrections with a blindfold on...I actually had to go to a smaller town outside of Baltimore for a proper job by a specialty shop for a basic service.

Keep the updates flowing! Also, nice looking 200 too!
Thanks, I've really enjoyed the 200 on some long canyonlands trips, San Juans etc.

I think I will put the new tires on and see how it goes with rubbing. I agree with you, once the sliders are on you likely won't see them. The drop brackets do push the tire forward some, not sure if it's enough for 37s. It currently handles great so my only reason for changing would be increased clearance and moving the tire forward if it needs it. Getting hung up on a rock is not a huge concern around here, though the added clearance would probably be nice for moab, rubicon type trails - which is part of my reasoning for building the 80 out differently from my 200.

My local shop had my 200 for a week or two to add new tires and get an alignment. I had to pressure them to get it done so I could have it back. Driving it didn't feel quite right. I was out of town with it and just stopped by a major tire store chain and had them realign. They told me it was quite a bit off and tires imbalanced. Which made me wonder about another vehicle I had. So I had it aligned out of town as well and they told me the same thing. I've quit using the local shop. Would like to support them being in a small town, but it shouldn't take two weeks to get a shoddy alignment.
 
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Very similar paths. Built the 200 used it and now have it for longer trips... and now built the 1994 for the harder stuff and put on 37s etc. Most of this thread aligns so closely with my own journey its scary. If you have any questions, hit me up.
 
Very similar paths. Built the 200 used it and now have it for longer trips... and now built the 1994 for the harder stuff and put on 37s etc. Most of this thread aligns so closely with my own journey it’s scary. If you have any questions, hit me up.
Ha ha. What lift did you end up with and what did you have to do to get the clearance you need for 37s.?
 
You might have to drive into the metropolis of Rock Springs/Green River and get the alignment accomplished (I am joking). Not sure where you are at but I know there are many small towns in Wyoming that have basic services only and know your pain of not having choices.

Nice rig and I whole heartedly hope your young one chooses the 80 to drive. I taught my daughter on mine and actually wished she would drive it but with parking spot in my area getting smaller she only drove it for a couple month before she admitted she was afraid of damaging it or another vehicle while parking. The parking at her high school has obnoxiously small spaces, they are made for a compact car essentially. I respected her for having the courage to admit and also concern for the 80.
 

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