NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,501
I have a Snap On torque wrench I borrowed from a friend a year plus ago but he doesn’t really need it so it might be mine at this point.
Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter NeverGiveUpYota
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I doubt Ace will have anything suitable. Don't use them unless they are forged steel like this.
Get some extra thick washers for the head bolts if it makes you more comfortable. Screw the bolts in as far as you can and try to keep the chains as straight up as possible (avoid bending the head bolts.). If you're bored some time read up on proper rigging techniques. The weight of the motor is not something to fool with.
Get some extra thick washers for the head bolts if it makes you more comfortable. Screw the bolts in as far as you can and try to keep the chains as straight up as possible (avoid bending the head bolts.). If you're bored some time read up on proper rigging techniques. The weight of the motor is not something to fool with.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,503
I bought 8, grade 8 washers from Ace for the headbolts. But thanks to a savvy thinker, I’ve got something like this in mind to make from some 1/4” steel plate I have or I’ll buy. Or I’ll pick up some shackles from Tractor Supply.
Now I’m just sitting back relaxing. I feel a tad more comfortable today w/ all that I have ahead of me. One Connecticut beer I’ve never had and dessert. The beer is nearly as rich as that cake will be, possibly more.
Now I’m just sitting back relaxing. I feel a tad more comfortable today w/ all that I have ahead of me. One Connecticut beer I’ve never had and dessert. The beer is nearly as rich as that cake will be, possibly more.
713025-EK : Marks 4wd Land Cruiser stock 4 & 5 SP to Chevy V8 Conversion kit | Advance Adapters
This adapter kit is used to adapt a Chevy engine to FJ40, FJ45, FJ55, FJ60 and FJ62 4 and 5-Speed Manual Kit and is manufactured by Marks 4wd. It utilizes the GM flywheel and clutch along with the Toyota bell housing. Instead of a new bell housing, a fl...
You’ve got the welder...
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,505
I do have a welder but how does an additional $1400 conversion kit make sense for me? Coming up w/ the cash for the block rebuild is going to be tricky enough. Tho strangely you are number two today to prompt me toward this option.713025-EK : Marks 4wd Land Cruiser stock 4 & 5 SP to Chevy V8 Conversion kit | Advance Adapters
This adapter kit is used to adapt a Chevy engine to FJ40, FJ45, FJ55, FJ60 and FJ62 4 and 5-Speed Manual Kit and is manufactured by Marks 4wd. It utilizes the GM flywheel and clutch along with the Toyota bell housing. Instead of a new bell housing, a fl...www.advanceadapters.com
You’ve got the welder...
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Yea and alot of other stuff to go along with it your on tge right track by rebuilding the 2f amd you know how to work on it .
I’m not really suggesting you do a swap, but i think the reason it’s done, is that for the price you’ll pay in machine work and parts to rebuild the 2f....
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,508
We’ll see ofcourse but I added up all the numbers that I was given by another who did a complete rebuild and it was around $1700.
For that conversion I’d be buying an engine and be a complete fish out of water. Right?
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
By far the cheapest alternative is to install another running 2F. Look hard for this. I got lucky and found a low mile one pulled for a diesel swap for $350 and it's still going strong 8 years later. This was the motor deal of all time, and it's my best running 2F. But you don't really understand the condition of the motor until the swap is fully done and you're on your way.
If you do a full rebuild, then for sure you'll have a good motor at the end, but it's $3500+ minimum. I would let the machine shop do the final assembly if you want a semblance of warranty. I know and believe you could do it yourself, but you probably should not, unless you're interested in the process.
I would look hard for "good, used" before you go down the rabbit hole of a full rebuild, unless you're fully committed to a rebuild. In a world of unlimited cash, an LS3 is the way to go, but short of that, I'd try to minimize expenses and look for a running 2F that you could plug into your situation.
If you do a full rebuild, then for sure you'll have a good motor at the end, but it's $3500+ minimum. I would let the machine shop do the final assembly if you want a semblance of warranty. I know and believe you could do it yourself, but you probably should not, unless you're interested in the process.
I would look hard for "good, used" before you go down the rabbit hole of a full rebuild, unless you're fully committed to a rebuild. In a world of unlimited cash, an LS3 is the way to go, but short of that, I'd try to minimize expenses and look for a running 2F that you could plug into your situation.
You'll have to use the head bolts. You won't find anything to thread in as it's a veeeery oddball size of 11mm x 1.75. You can buy chains, cheap, with those L hooks already attached.
Make sure you insert your dizzy before you tighten down the oil pump. After you tighten it , you can remove the dizzy again. The reason being, it can be a little out of alignment and make it impossible to get the dizzy in later.
Rockymtnreaper
Colorado.Cruiser
This is what the machine shop that I took my engine too came up with... Just weld something onto the head bolt and you are in business. hahaha
And this is what I did because I needed to get it pulled and didn't have a ton of options. Headbolt with a washer and then I had an engine hook on the other side we had from harbor freight. Worked but I wouldn't recommend my placement it made the engine very unbalanced.
And this is what I did because I needed to get it pulled and didn't have a ton of options. Headbolt with a washer and then I had an engine hook on the other side we had from harbor freight. Worked but I wouldn't recommend my placement it made the engine very unbalanced.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,513
I didn’t kniw this last time I had it off and somehow I didn’t mess it up... but funny you mentioned it. The powder coaters assistant said to be sure and replace the pump. I told him it tears down part by part very easily but he still felt it would be better to replace. When I pulled it yesterday I looked closely and the screen has a bunch of aluminum bits on and in it.Make sure you insert your dizzy before you tighten down the oil pump. After you tighten it , you can remove the dizzy again. The reason being, it can be a little out of alignment and make it impossible to get the dizzy in later.
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,514
Luckily the hoist I have has a leveler. Glad tho you piped in w/ a photo. I had actually told someone I was going to email you yesterday. Thank you for reading my mind!
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This won’t cost you $3500... it will if you replace everything with NOS Toyota and pay a shop to assemble it. Which would both be a waste of money for you. I bet you can do it for half that cost.
Typically having everything done to a block, crank polished, rods reaized, etc comes out to about $1000-1200. It’s not $2000 worth of parts. I’ve done a bunch of rebuilds on these motors on a budget (most of them are not documented on Mud). One of them is currently ticking away in a Mud members 62.
I am also going to start putting a nice 2F short block I have together but wasnt planning on getting to it for another few months...
Typically having everything done to a block, crank polished, rods reaized, etc comes out to about $1000-1200. It’s not $2000 worth of parts. I’ve done a bunch of rebuilds on these motors on a budget (most of them are not documented on Mud). One of them is currently ticking away in a Mud members 62.
I am also going to start putting a nice 2F short block I have together but wasnt planning on getting to it for another few months...
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
lots of great suggestions. I know you'll find the best path forward... Matts right about your ability to do the work, but Andy is also right about the warranty bits... not always a clear path thru the mud, is it? I know no one will think this is a good idea, but I heard that milling the deck on a late 2F (3F stamped) head, it'll get the compression of a 3F block up to where the 2F was... there are alot of 3F blocks around, and they have a nice square geometry (higher revs...). Just another option for the hat...
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,517
Thanks Matt. I actually knew you’d be my guardian angel on the side I needed to hear. I’m right there w/ you. There’s no way I can afford all Toyota parts, you all know that well from my history of responses so I will definitely be going aftermarket. I AM reading and compiling lists of parts that seem to be on the upper end of what folks use more often and speak highly of. Even simple purchases I do my homework reading reviews ect before I buy. I’ve learned by my own experiences to sit back and think. Go slow and methodical. I am jumping in the deep end feet first.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Regarding parts...Do not buy any parts until you talk to your machine shop. Many will only agree to work with you if they provide the parts. Also, it's likely they will want to measure EVERYTHING before any plans are made or parts ordered.
And I'm standing by $3500 more or less, and that's if you're lucky. This motor will power your truck the next 15 years so saving $1000 is inconsequential.
Some aftermarket parts are better than Toyota-Clevite rings, Melling (sp?) cams etc. Use with confidence. I have less confidence in Chinese parts and your machine shop can direct you through that mine field. I'd guess pistons will be your issue and don't know if there is a domestic source other than custom (which might be an option). @FJ40Jim probably knows more than anyone about this and I'd ask him.
Good for you for jumping in, but jump carefully. I'd still look for a used running 2F if you want to minimize cost and down time. That swap can be done in a long weekend.
And I'm standing by $3500 more or less, and that's if you're lucky. This motor will power your truck the next 15 years so saving $1000 is inconsequential.
Some aftermarket parts are better than Toyota-Clevite rings, Melling (sp?) cams etc. Use with confidence. I have less confidence in Chinese parts and your machine shop can direct you through that mine field. I'd guess pistons will be your issue and don't know if there is a domestic source other than custom (which might be an option). @FJ40Jim probably knows more than anyone about this and I'd ask him.
Good for you for jumping in, but jump carefully. I'd still look for a used running 2F if you want to minimize cost and down time. That swap can be done in a long weekend.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,519
THanks Drew. Yeah that’s where I see the top level of aftermarket parts so far here on mud. And yes I’m well aware to not buy anything (I did buy a head gasket, from my Toyota dealer) until the shop has it in hand esp because they often have certain brands they prefer and I know this guy does. So I’m in the same understanding to wait. Thank you for the encouragement.
DickM
SILVER Star
It is a hard thing to do, but you have to trust your decision and let the guys who do it for a living do what you hired them to do.
Of course, you are well informed consumer, and will ask all the right questions , and be confidant with the outcome, which will be good.
